Here's my observation. I had Mike 51 on ignore for some time. Then a friend alerted me that he was making snarky remarks after my posts. Both him and another troll who has suddenly gone silent. So I took a look and yes, in the posts that were visible when you look at his profile, he had called me out by name in a couple of those. Doesn't seem to matter that I never responded, he just seems to enjoy the smell of his own farts. Which led me to probe deeper... ole Mike has been a member for many years, but I couldn't find a single post where he shared a build of his, or a modeling tip. I couldn't even find a photo he's posted. In short, he provides no value to the membership. Back on ignore.
The guy who did the box art is probably Chinese and doesn't even know the English alphabet. But his revenge is all the dumb Americans who get tattoos of Chinese symbols that are supposed to mean "serenity" , "peace" and other nice thoughts when in reality they mean "bathroom" or "stupid"
Think about that the next time you buy old kits on eBay or at a swap meet! We all do it, take a part for a project and think we'll remember... or some guy dies and the dealer who bought the collection has no idea. I probably have kits I bought and didn't go over too well, and will pass them on that way too!
A question, are you intending just to repaint a different color over the purple? Are you planning on using primer? Are you going to strip it? Without knowing more, I usually strip diecast with aircraft stripper and start with bare metal. I then use Duplicolor primers and paints over that. If the lettering is raised, once painted, you could just hit it with silver, even a silver paint marker. Or once stripped you could put BMF on it before your final color coat, so it will fill in the loops in lettering etc with body color. Then polish the paint off the high areas to reveal the BMF. If the cap is molded into the metal, that looks easy to BMF once painted. If it's a separate piece and pegged into a hole in the body, drill it from behind to release the part. Then just glue back on once painted.
Thanks guys! I have all the chassis parts in place now and I was working on adding microscopic photo etched seat belt buckles. Did you all notice how many 29 Ford threads there are right now?? Half the board must be building this kit!
The first post said $10, and I see $23.95 on the kit box. I do like seeing the diecast kit with the primed body so you can do your own thing with paint, without having to disassemble and strip the sucker! I love that it's a big bumper '74 and it has a six. But American Grafitti???
I knew the history, but never saw it all laid out like that! Thanks for the presentation! I'm a sucker for these things so I would've bought all 6 kits to complete the Triumph. I don't know if that would fly today. First we don't have annuals. I'm thinking that all six kits were released at the same time or close together, so a kid with a bank account would've been able to buy them in a short amount of time. And I can already hear the moaning on the boards!
Hey Rob! That all looks great! You no doubt found that the nailhead's transmission just pops into it's mount on the cross member, and that many of the engine components like the front and top covers also just press into place. Great design on these. One caution, if you are using the kit headers, I didn't have much luck getting them to sit right on the provided mounts. So I reverted to my usual practice of cutting off the mount nubs, doing a bit of drilling on both the header and receiving point on the chassis and adding short lengths of straight pin to hold those in place.
Here's a photo showing how the tire melted the body on this old custom. This car has been stored in ambient conditions, note the condition of the angel hair interior. But the tire has reacted with the body, chemical reaction and not heat related.
And here's where we are at right now. The car was painted Tamiya TS-41 Coral Blue because that was the theme at the Diversified Scalerz Model Car Meet on Saturday. I got 80% there, but ran into some issues that kept me from crossing that finish line. Still, we displayed the car in the category per our original goal.
This is a very nice kit and I like a lot of things about it. Much of it just snaps in place, like once you put the two inner door panel / wheel well parts in place, and key it into the floor pan it pretty much just snaps together. Then the dash board just snaps into the slot. I did use glue but you could almost get away without it.
The rear assembly goes together really well. I also like the way the wheels are mounted on small metal pins. Very sure fit and straight! I followed the instructions to put in the engine / trans first (The trans fits to a pin, I didn't even use glue here), add in the drive shaft, then mount the rear to it. Again no glue on the drive shaft, it fits into a hole on either end and holds the rear in place. Next step is to mount the springs onto their respective pins on the rear without glue until you fit it up into the body and attach the springs to the top perch. That pretty much holds the whole rear in place.
I didn't like the provided stock instrument pod, so I filled in the hole and sanded the panel flat. Then I did my usual wood graining and then added a Detail Master photo etch instrument set. I added a brass light switch to the left, but I don't think you can see it in this shot. Also, in these photos if the seat moved around, it's not glued in yet since I want to take it out to do seat belts.
The engine - I used the provided Buick Nailhead and used some Internet provided photos of a 1965 Buick Riviera engine restored and sitting on a skid for my detailing. I added a dipstick, and the blue wires I had, although sold as engine wire, is a bit large. I used it anyway since this was a "for fun" build and I had a deadline. The front engine cover snaps into place as does the top cover. One thing I'll say is that while things go together easily, the kit has some pretty tight and unforgiving tolerances. For instance as I put the engine in place, my lower pulley was sticking out a tiny bit, which wouldn't have mattered on another kit. But the tolerance between it and the cross member in front of it were so tight that I had to pull it back out to shave a bit off the back mount. At first I was worried about getting it out, then I remembered that the engine was sitting on snap mounts and not glued, nor was the front cover! It all came apart quickly for the adjustments. The area in the firewall where the distributor fits is also very tight. No doubt works dandy if you don't wire the engine, but be careful of your wires or the body won't sit down on the chassis. With my oversize wires, I had to pull them all forward. I won't make that mistake on my next one! The headers are mounted on two small nibs each. Since other parts snapped in place I thought I'd give them a try. Nope! I just couldn't get them to sit right. So I retreated to my comfort zone of drilling out those mounts and mounting the headers on lengths of straight pin. They are press fitted, not glued at all yet if they appear to be sticking out of the mounts in these photos. A few other tips.. make sure you follow the kit instructions of putting the exhaust onto the floor pan prior to assembling to the chassis, as the pipes sit under the back chassis cross member. If you don't, it's still easy enough to cut them into two pieces and glue the two ends under that member.. yea, I did that too. And prior to assembly, add the chrome exhaust tips to the pipes. It wasn't fun trying to get them to sit right on the finished model.
I am also not a fan of the front end assembly. The axle assembly will fit into the chassis slot either way... forward or backwards! I'd want it to be keyed so it only goes on the right way. The assembly instructions weren't all that clear about this either, so I anticipate people making this mistake. The rest of the assembly is all chrome and I found the tiny mount points difficult. The shock mounts glue to a very small notch on the frame and aren't that sure in their fit. The headlights each mount to the top of one of these, on that little pin you see on the left side (The part isn't yet on the right side) so if you don't have these aligned correctly, your headlights won't be straight. I've heard of others replacing these parts with ones from '32 Ford kits. And if you manage to get to the stage of adding the headlights, hold off on putting the lens in place until they are mounted. The mounts are on an angle, so if you have added the lenses logically... as in straight to the mount on the bottom, they'll be angled.
This kit has the feel of a Revell of Germany kit, with many tiny little parts. The door handles are wee works of art, probably the best ever done. One tip, just press them into the body and glue from behind before you glue in the interior side panels. That will keep things perfectly clean. Another microscopic part is the engine breather cap. And if you look at the little stem, it's actually keyed to the hole. I'm at that point in assembly where you glue on a part, and need to walk away to let it dry before you touch it again. So I'm taking my time finishing it this week, hopefully finishing it for my club meeting on Saturday. I just noticed I didn't take any chassis shots, so I'll include those with the next installment. Overall, I think this is a landmark kit. And I'll do a much better job on my next one. That's the thing with this kit. Everyone who is doing a build thread mentions their next one. And that's quite a compliment to the kit!
Kevin, you reminded me of another story... same company... the engineering department decided to move all the files from the file room and put the cubicles of four smoking engineers in there to comply with the closed door smoking policy. They were supposed to go through the facilities department to make any changes... first for approval, and second for the work to be done properly by our contractors. But they were doing this on the sly and made a big mess of it. They had unbalanced and unbolted file cabinets lining narrow halls, which was against fire code. They had some idiot reassemble the cubicles breaking mount points and all out of square. Once completed, the new occupants complained to facilities that the smoke never dispersed and it was too hot in there. Well, file rooms don't get the air conditioning and ventilation as the office areas. They're treated pretty much like closets! So these idiots moved themselves into an unventilated room! And these idiots were engineers!