Rattle can or airbrush? If you're using an airbrush, you could paint it with Tamiya or other water based acrylic bottle paint, dampen a cotton swab with Windex, and wipe away the paint from the raised areas. Tamiya rattle-can paints have a different formulation from the bottle paints, so I don't think this technique will work in them.
Does your software have an option to run a boot-time scan (scanning during a system start-up)? Take a look in the options in Malwarebytes. If you can do that, it may be able to deal with the infected program before it starts up in Windows. Only do it when you have time to let the scan run, windows won't start until the scan is done.
I have one, and started building it. Mine had a short-shot hood, so I decided to hot-rod it, but moved on to something else when I had some things to figure out. I found that the parts fit together really well, but the frame is in multiple pieces, and mine came out with a twist due to slightly warped parts. The engine, interior and suspension went together beautifully. Body looks really good. My example had chrome that was faded, but came off really easily with Simple Green, so I can repaint it.
Gregg, I haven't commented on the new look, because I figured I would get used to it after spending a little time with it, which is exactly what is happening. Some things are very different, but they haven't caused any big problems for me yet. Thanks for maintaining this forum, and for putting up with everything you have to put up with during the changeover.
I think some people have it in their heads that the whole thing isn't just a marketing ploy, and this is really and truly the last time they will have an opportunity to get those items.
Some people probably think they will be able to flip their purchases at a future date for a profit, even at these inflated prices.
And, from what I've seen, some people think that they are striking a blow for freedom or sticking it to the man by throwing their money away on collectibles. I'm reminded of a line in a song: "They got you thinking that buying is rebelling."
I find Simple Green works better than Purple Power to soften the undercoat enough to remove. Unfortunately, it still needs scraping with a dental pick or probe to get the stuff out of parts like grills and finned valve covers.
Sorry, but I have come to realize that the salt chipping technique is not going to work with this build. I really should have waited until the body was painted before adding the aero.
But to briefly describe the technique: After doing your base coat, you spritz your model with some kind of fluid (some people use water, some people use hairspray, I was using water with a bit of dish detergent added), then you sprinkle on some salt and let it set. Spray on your color coat(s) and let it dry. Knock off the salt with a stiff brush and a toothpick for any stubborn spots. You will be left with what should look like natural chips in the paint.
There are multiple videos available on YouTube if you want a visual demonstration. Search for "Salt chipping technique", you'll find plenty of people who can explain it way better than I can, including our own Dr. Cranky.