Gregg, I haven't commented on the new look, because I figured I would get used to it after spending a little time with it, which is exactly what is happening. Some things are very different, but they haven't caused any big problems for me yet. Thanks for maintaining this forum, and for putting up with everything you have to put up with during the changeover.
I think some people have it in their heads that the whole thing isn't just a marketing ploy, and this is really and truly the last time they will have an opportunity to get those items.
Some people probably think they will be able to flip their purchases at a future date for a profit, even at these inflated prices.
And, from what I've seen, some people think that they are striking a blow for freedom or sticking it to the man by throwing their money away on collectibles. I'm reminded of a line in a song: "They got you thinking that buying is rebelling."
I find Simple Green works better than Purple Power to soften the undercoat enough to remove. Unfortunately, it still needs scraping with a dental pick or probe to get the stuff out of parts like grills and finned valve covers.
Sorry, but I have come to realize that the salt chipping technique is not going to work with this build. I really should have waited until the body was painted before adding the aero.
But to briefly describe the technique: After doing your base coat, you spritz your model with some kind of fluid (some people use water, some people use hairspray, I was using water with a bit of dish detergent added), then you sprinkle on some salt and let it set. Spray on your color coat(s) and let it dry. Knock off the salt with a stiff brush and a toothpick for any stubborn spots. You will be left with what should look like natural chips in the paint.
There are multiple videos available on YouTube if you want a visual demonstration. Search for "Salt chipping technique", you'll find plenty of people who can explain it way better than I can, including our own Dr. Cranky.
And thank you all for your input. I have applied salt to the rest of the car, aero included, and I've decided to paint the car all in purple. After the color coat dries, I will use a stencil to apply a flaming skull graphic to the hood. Then I will knock off the salt, paint the chips in the aero grey, and scuff up the paint with some fine grit sandpaper.
I will post photos when I make some more progress.
I've been applying some salt masking before the next stage of paint:
...and I think I may have painted myself into a corner by attaching the fender flares and air dam prior to painting.
I think the salt chipping shouldn't be done on the aero bits, considering they would most likely be made of GRP or FRP instead of steel. I expect they would weather differently than the steel, or more likely the driver would have attached the aero to an already-weathered bodyshell. However, if the aero was attached to an already-weathered body shell, it likely wouldn't be the same color as the bodyshell. don't think I can properly mask off the aero, with all of it's compound curves, and I doubt brush-painting it with another color will come out looking even enough (unless I go all out with making this look like a car put together by a nitwit with more money than sense or style, who just brush-painted the aero in his garage). Final clear-coat might even it out, but I don't know if I want to rely on it.
So, my questions are: Do I apply the salt masking to the aero for consistency, or do I try brush-painting the aero with some properly thinned semi-gloss black to look like added on parts? How would painted FRP body panels weather if they were exposed to the elements at the same rate as the steel?
I'm kind of invested in the idea of doing a weathered car at this point, so I'd rather not give up on it, but I also want to make it look believable.
As Bill said in his last post, these photos date back to 2009, when the global recession was still in full swing. In addition, some of the photos were of cars awaiting export shipment. Check these out for more context.
Same here, Joe.
One problem I have with the recent Batmobiles, they are just too big. How does Batman drive through the narrow streets of Gotham with something like that? As much as I like the looks of some of what the films present, I'd kind of like to see a film where Batman drives a car that is small, fast and nimble. The Bat-Pod sort of fits that bill, but it doesn't really have a "Batman" kind of look to it.
I also don't get how Batman, who never uses guns, always drives vehicles that are festooned with high caliber weaponry?
The '66 Batmobile has some nice lines to it, but I just can't accept all of the bright colors stuck to it. I'd like to build the Polar Lights kit, but I'd have to do it dark, as befits the Dark Knight.