I'll be keeping an eye on this build! There's nothing more fun or informative than watching you dive into a build of a car you have a real passion for. The fact that I am really starting to dig all of these Hudsons is just a bonus!
At one time, I thought AMT was going to do a few mods to its older tools to up sales, like tooling up clear headlights to replace chrome ones. I have a few copies of almost every kit AMT/MPC has put out since I jumped back into the hobby in the late Eighties. I need to see a reason to buy a new one. Except for a few desired kits (1972 GMC truck, 1984 GMC, Mack R and Transtar II, along with the Paystars and Autocars) most of the kits AMT can reissue are already a dime a dozen. Some new (or rare old) parts and improvements would really set them apart and give people a reason to buy the reissues for full price. One of the most noticeable improvements (And fairly easy compared to re engineering chassis, motors etc...) they can make is to spruce up the headlights and taillights on the cars where they are currently chrome. That, along with some really obvious fixes ('65 Galaxie taillights, '69 Chevelle rear end) would make their repops much more desirable. I would probably be more inclined to pick up a kit with some fixes or new parts.
So how is the cigarette lighter in the Del Rio? (There... do I have the jist of the thread figured out?)
I didn't know the radio was a different mold. I have a couple of the Del Rios, but I missed out on the police cars. I figure I can just take the police parts from the Del Rio, and stick them on a regular '57 Ford to make up the difference. The only thing lacking would be the decals... I would probably look for some unique ones anyways. Cathie's Son in Law thinks he can do a pretty close version of a two door detective's car with a Revell '57 Chevy 150 Black widow kit and a bunch of downgrading. He's thinking of a 6 cylinder with the plain 5 lug wheels and the police parts from his Del Rio, along with some custom printed decals. He has found a few pictures of cars that could be duplicated. I like the way he is thinking!
We used the old Fred Cady decals for ever, and they had to be cut. It's like any modeling skill. It's a bit unnerving the first time, but if you take you time, be patient, and practice on an unimportant section first, you will be fine. I have used both fine scissors and X-acto knives for this, but I prefer the scissors, as I don't seem to damage the edges of my decals as much. many modelers prefer the X-acto, or scalpel blades. I sometimes use the swivel knives used for fine stencil cutting. My best results with knives are when I don't cut through the backing. I use a very good light, and go slowly, making a clean cut through the film. If you make a rough spot on the edge of the decal. it can show a bit, but they still look better than many of the recent kit decals.
I like that idea. I would like to see AMT do a convertible version. The 1967 was also a pace car IIRC, so that would give them another sales pitch. As long as they didn't wreck their Hardtop version to make it, it would be a nice deal. It would also be a good way for them to ease back into new tools.
Any time the volume and pressure are changed, the temperature will change too. The heat is not going out through the sides of the can. The temperature is dropping in response to the drop in pressure and the change in volume of the gas in the can. It's the same principle that air conditioners and refrigerators work on. It's the same law, but in reverse, that explains why compressed air heats up. No real way around it except to pump air into the can as fast as the gases are released. (Which brings us right back to an airbrush and compressor)
The best tips I can give from memory on the pro streeter , and the stock version are these. Build the platform interior, and make sure everything is flush when you assemble it. Any high spots, gaps, wobbles or paint ridges, and it won't fit properly between the body and chassis. Scrape the paint off of the bottom edge of the side pieces and the part that they mount into. You don't have room for paint buildup in the finished model. Glue plastic to plastic only. The fenderwells, firewall, radiator and it's supports all need to be flush and flat. Again, no layers of paint on the mating surfaces, and no gaps. Sand it to fit flat, or you won't get it all shoved under the body. The chassis can be a really tight fit vertically on these cars. (And also on the 1966 Fairlanes and 1967 Comet kits.) If you don't have the Glass, firewalls, fenderwells, radiator panels, interior, engine and other parts straight and flush, the chassis will not fit all the way into the body. The first Nova I built had the chassis sticking out just under the rocker panels. The other side to this is if you do shove the chassis far enough into the model, the side panels of the interior can stick up above the door sills! Again, the cure is to make sure the interior is assembled straight and flush.
The details are very nice on these kits, but this was AMTs first kit of this type. It was groundbreaking when it came out, and it changed the way kits were manufactured. Some of the kits that came out later were slightly more user friendly. AMT made later kits with slightly better fit and more "wiggle room" to align things. Go slowly, and make sure the interior and all of the panels under the hood are true, flush and tight. Then final assembly will go fairly smoothly. It's not the easiest kit to build, but it will go together very nicely with a bit of patience and planning. The look of the finished kit is worth all of the hassle.
I wonder about the stability and consistency of the original paint. I saw several Plum Crazy cars at Mopar shows back in the eighties, and many of them had original paint. No two matched. An old salt who actually sold Plymouths all through the sixties claimed that Plum Crazy (In Violet in Plymouth vernacular) could vary from car to car within a delivery. He thought the paint wasn't mixed very well at the factory, giving some cars more or less flake than others. He even sent two 'Cudas back because they didn't match across the whole car, with noticeable light and dark panels and patches. Moulin Rouge and Limelight had different problems, as they tended to fade a bit, and were very hard to match for repairs. He was glad to see the crazy colors go away, although he drove a Sassy Grass Green Duster for many years.
I store my unopened bottles in the freezer until I am ready to use them. Let them warm up to room temp. before opening them, or they will attract condensation. (Really bad for CA) I buy a bunch of the smaller bottles instead of a few of the larger bottles. It costs a bit more, but it saves in the long run, because the bigger bottles never get used up before the glue turns into rocks!
Boyle's law also works against us, as spraying the paint decreases the temperature. Warming the can slowly (I use a sink filled with moderately hot tap water, and change it a couple of times) helps with both the pressure and the consistency of the paint. I am very careful with the Testor's Lacquers in the automotive colors, as I have had a couple of those cans leak their contents through pinholes before. (I decant them and thin them for an airbrush, as they are a bit thick and have lousy nozzles)
One modeler here gets around Boyle's law by shooting pretty thin coats, and reheating the can between coats. He gets the can hotter for each coat, as the volume and pressure decrease as the can empties. By his last coat, he can't hold the can with a bare hand, and he gets incredible paint jobs with a spray can. I am afraid to get things anywhere near that hot, so I live with falling pressures towards the end of the can. I am starting to rely less on the cans and much more on my airbrush. I feel more comfortable with the airbrush anyways, as I have much better control.
I vaguely remember the car you are thinking of. It wasn't the speedwagon, though. There was a woody that was all steel and brilliantly painted to look like wood. The speedwagon was wood. I wish I could remember the name of the fake woody.
I like the '32s, but the speedwagon is less useful than the highboy roadster would be. I would buy a few of those if they were reissued. I might pick up one of these to build an actual speedwagon, since the ones I had were used to build a phantom touring woody and to start a chopped up drag themed car. Someday I have to drag that one out of the pile and finish it.
I have been involved with RC planes. Same issues there. I scratchbuild, so I understand the concerns. I have seen whole garages full of RC planes end up in a dumpster, and I have been told by a widow that she is selling a small plane for $1500 because she saw a plane of the same color listed on ebay for that much.
If you care about what happens after you die, make those plans now. I have a list ,that Cathie will get upon my death, which outlines the big money kits and projects, and tells her how to list them. Hopefully this will keep her from selling the kit boxes with resin, photo etch and decals for $3 at a garage sale. I have decided to reduce the stash quite a bit before then. I could get more built if I had fewer distractions. Unfortunately, I think I am just making space to fill up with new models.
Reminds me of a T-shirt I saw once that said, "When I'm gone, I hope my wife doesn't sell my guns for what I told her they cost!" Same things applies to models, planes and slot cars! (Even a couple of my fountain pens fall into that category.
Well over 1000 sealed kits, plus a few hundred opened, started, raided or other kits. I will be ebaying a bunch of them this year, because if I don't, Cathie will. I'd rather have the money in my pay pal account than hers. I'm going to use some of the proceeds to buy some supplies and finish more of the kits I have. She wants more shoes...