This is off to a really interesting start. Declan, if you want an easier source of rust, just hallf submerge a steel-wool pad in a bit of salt water, and keep it set up in a container until the water evaporates out. You'll be left with rust as powdery as fine talc, and plenty of it. You may have to "mortar and pestle" it a liitle bit. Just give it some time. I've done this, and it works well. I agree that nothing looks so much like rust as actual rust.
"Come to think of it, there was also a miniature pool table that used marbles. The "cues" were these little spring-loaded things you'd pull back and release. That was kinda cool. I'd guess it dated to the '30s or '40s. Anyone ever see anything like that? " Snake, that one was still around in the early 70s: Pivot Pool. There was a fixed-location, spring loaded plunger in the table that could pivot in any direction to launch the cue ball (white marble). Lucille Ball was in the commercial! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Milton-Bradley-Pivot-Pool-Table-Top-GAME-1972-COMP-W-Extras-Lucille-Ball-Nic/201435821272?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D654c53c711434c4ab01b0272b08b24a9%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D152004944748 Anyone remember Pendulum Pool? The name says it all. Awesome thread!
Looking good so far! Just a heads-up on a couple of issues: I did a quick-n-dirty photoshop of your pic to point out some detailing errors you might still be able to address. I just "corrected" (poorly, but it gets the idea across) the driver's side, so you can compare. The orange arrows point out areas that should not be black, but are in fact stiffening ribs that are part of the floopan, not the frame, as painted. They provide a sturdier mounting point for the frame-to-floor attachment. The mounts are part of the frame, and would be black as shown. The photos posted above are very good references for this as well. Another often overlooked detail on this chassis is the fuel filler tube pointed out in green. Dull aluminum or flat steel looks good for this. While I'm picking nits, the shocks should be either satin black or medium gray. I say all that to say this: this is a VERY good start to a factory stock model, and you seem to want to get it right! Kudos, and good luck! Keep up the good work.
Hmm, I have to ask those who recommend the recent telease of AMT's 70-1/2 Camaro but not the 90's release: what changed? I don't recall any real issues with that tool, except some minor missing seam on the dash, and maybe wheel spacing issues? What was updated/fixed in the newer release?
Really liking this build! Here's a few nice reference pics: http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1968-FORD-GALAXIE-XL-FASTBACK-125313 http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/07/18/hemmings-find-of-the-day-1968-ford-galaxie-500xl/#&gid=1&pid=3 http://www.galaxieclub.com/internationalcarshow/index.html#anchor68
Scroll down on that last one to see the '68 model year. If I may suggest, I'd knock down the simulated seams on your vinyl roof to half or less their current thickness (height). You're replicating just a couple layers of vinyl, which at 1/25 would be a VERY subtle effect. I only offer this because exagerrated vinyl detail is a pet peeve of mine and can ruin an otherwise beautiful model. Yours is coming along SO nicely, it deserves to look its best! Keep sweatin' the details, and happy building!