"Come to think of it, there was also a miniature pool table that used marbles. The "cues" were these little spring-loaded things you'd pull back and release. That was kinda cool. I'd guess it dated to the '30s or '40s. Anyone ever see anything like that? " Snake, that one was still around in the early 70s: Pivot Pool. There was a fixed-location, spring loaded plunger in the table that could pivot in any direction to launch the cue ball (white marble). Lucille Ball was in the commercial! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Milton-Bradley-Pivot-Pool-Table-Top-GAME-1972-COMP-W-Extras-Lucille-Ball-Nic/201435821272?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D654c53c711434c4ab01b0272b08b24a9%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D152004944748 Anyone remember Pendulum Pool? The name says it all. Awesome thread!
Looking good so far! Just a heads-up on a couple of issues: I did a quick-n-dirty photoshop of your pic to point out some detailing errors you might still be able to address. I just "corrected" (poorly, but it gets the idea across) the driver's side, so you can compare. The orange arrows point out areas that should not be black, but are in fact stiffening ribs that are part of the floopan, not the frame, as painted. They provide a sturdier mounting point for the frame-to-floor attachment. The mounts are part of the frame, and would be black as shown. The photos posted above are very good references for this as well. Another often overlooked detail on this chassis is the fuel filler tube pointed out in green. Dull aluminum or flat steel looks good for this. While I'm picking nits, the shocks should be either satin black or medium gray. I say all that to say this: this is a VERY good start to a factory stock model, and you seem to want to get it right! Kudos, and good luck! Keep up the good work.
Hmm, I have to ask those who recommend the recent telease of AMT's 70-1/2 Camaro but not the 90's release: what changed? I don't recall any real issues with that tool, except some minor missing seam on the dash, and maybe wheel spacing issues? What was updated/fixed in the newer release?
Really liking this build! Here's a few nice reference pics: http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1968-FORD-GALAXIE-XL-FASTBACK-125313 http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/07/18/hemmings-find-of-the-day-1968-ford-galaxie-500xl/#&gid=1&pid=3 http://www.galaxieclub.com/internationalcarshow/index.html#anchor68
Scroll down on that last one to see the '68 model year. If I may suggest, I'd knock down the simulated seams on your vinyl roof to half or less their current thickness (height). You're replicating just a couple layers of vinyl, which at 1/25 would be a VERY subtle effect. I only offer this because exagerrated vinyl detail is a pet peeve of mine and can ruin an otherwise beautiful model. Yours is coming along SO nicely, it deserves to look its best! Keep sweatin' the details, and happy building!
Agree that there is really no bad choice here! This is a svelt body style, and all your wheel options look very stylish, so it really comes down to personal taste; which do YOU prefer? Looking forward to the finished project.
" After applying the foil, but before cutting it, lay a piece of blue painters tape along the edge that you want to cut. It will give you a nice straight line & the edge of the tape will give you a guide for your blade to ride against while cutting. Also, the blue tape will give you a color contrast so that it's easier to see what you're cutting."
Another tip that works well for me: color the tip of your blade with a black sharpie; it lessens distracting reflections.
The "short cap" Rallyes were not a one year only option. The short cap denotes disc brakes, and is lettered as such in a circle on the caps. Tall "Derby Hat" center caps read "Chevrolet Motor Division". http://www.ebay.com/itm/SETOF4-Chevy-GM-Rally-Wheel-Center-Hub-Caps-Disc-Brake-Rim-Cap-Cover-Trim-Rings-/230888069477