First time commenting. Absolutely amazing work! Your comment about putting in 25 hours to make these parts provoked me to reply. That amount of time can be related to and compared to the amount of money you have invested in your project. Once approached a machinist to cut a die for doing aluminum velocity stacks and his charge was $100.00 an hour and he estimated a minimum of 2 hours to complete. I deeply admire your dedication and efforts to completing this project. I tip my hat to you and can't wait to see the 'J' in final form.
Hans, I do make the 4-hole Hilborn available in resin as well as the BBC engine. Shipping to the Netherlands could be pricey and I would have to check on that. Send me an email offline at email@example.com and we can talk more.
Thanks guys. Unfortunately, this will continue to be slow going. There are so many projects that back-burn this build.
Chris - you are so fortunate to have access to photos or better yet, could view Snake's car in person if you had the opportunity, but with the Jewel T there are no reference pix of the altered's interior or rear suspension. Even the builder, Wes Ingram, didn't take any photos while building the car and works from memory with me. I'm making a lot of decisions blind, based on common practices of those days.
Been a while since I posted on this build. Made some improvements on some of the BBC engine parts. Just didn't like the valve covers I had done earlier. Here's the improved valve cover for this build. Hoping to get back to this project. Very busy updating most of my resin engines.
Here's the pic I wanted to share earlier. These are right out of the molds. The can in front is the one that would have saved you some time, it is basic like the one you already had and the other behind it is one that I do with all the details in place. With your building skills you got the basic one so you could add those details yourself.
Chris, you should have given me a shout cause I would have sent you another clutch can that is shaped like that. You did a wonderful job transforming the chamfered type anyway. Photobucket is down at the moment so I can't forward a pic, maybe later.
Chris - No real progress on any of my personal builds. You know I had a post here on MCM for the Jewel T altered build, but like so many of my builds get back-burned for other efforts. Resin parts production is at the top right now. Keep up your great effort on this project.
Chris, you use a Badger 200 single action to paint with? Been using that gun for over 15 yrs, most reliable gun out there - cheap too! Worn out one gun and replaced it two more. Don't get me wrong as I also have Paasche & Iawata dual action guns too. That Badger is a real work horse though. Are your House of Color paints catalyzed? My experience with HOC paints isn't good and I think it is the thinner I've used, too hot. Local auto supplier sold me some acrylic lacquer thinner that I have yet to use. What do you think? Oh, almost forgot...great progress.
The Ramchargers dragster you have shown in the pic is a Woody Gilmore chassis digger. With that said, there is no kit in 1/25 - 1/24th scale that uses a Woody chassis. Most of the kits done in those scales are all reflective of a Don Long type chassis. Garlits created his own chassis so to call his a Don Long would be wrong as well. What was done by the model manufacturers was to do one chassis and then do other versions using the original production chassis with different decals.
Here's the most recognizable difference:
Woody Gilmore chassis characteristics - dual chassis support tubes behind the drivers seat as the bottom frame rails bend upwards to meet the upper frame hoop that is formed behind the drivers seat. There are only two radius rods, one on each side, connecting the front axle to the frame. A bell crank is used to connect the front wheels, so the steering link runs parallel all the way down the body to the nose where the bell crank located.
Don Long chassis characteristics - Single support tube behind the drivers seat connecting the upper and lower frame rail hoops. Four radius rods at the front axle, two on each side and the steering link usually runs parallel to the body until it angles off to the left front wheel for steering the wheels.
These are very distinct differences. Differences that should be observed more closely if you want to accomplish a close to accurate replication. I hope these pix help.
example of Don Long Chassis front axle configuration.
example of Don Long chassis drivers cockpit configuration
example of Woody Gilmore Chassis front axle configuration
example of Woody Gilmore drivers cockpit configuration
That would be great. Just send them over once you get 'em. I'm finally getting your new 417 manifold done and then a new mold can be completed. This summer has been so busy I look forward to the fall and colder weather. You can take the credit for my effort to work with Scott on the photoetch pieces as it was Scott who informed me that he worked with you to size the butterflies for the Enderle bugcatcher on your request. Once I get the new bugcatcher finished I wanted to send you the new part to use. Your build is the ultimate inspiration to anyone who follows the progress. I'm just glad that you chose to use one of my engines for the build.
Chris, the earlier posts stating that the body was too narrow pointed out the only flaw I noticed. You made a great first attempt and a second try will correct the problem. Just wondering? - with the amount of time you have invested doing the drawing, and then waiting for TDR to return product to you, how many times could you redo these parts before you get what you want? I run into that problem all the time. I so want to do a master set of those myself. You get a real good idea on how wide/tall the body should be by comparing them sitting on the valve covers. The spacing between the spark plug holes gives you great relationship to observe for size. Your build looks great by the way!
Shove the end of a tapered toothpick into the black tubing and twist to create enough friction to heat it up and expanding the end, then insert the yellow wire. This trick works for other types of wire in different colors. Hope it helps.
It was indeed a real treat to meet with Brad. I really do need to get back on the Jewel T project. I'm very busy with engine orders right now as well as trying to finish up some new & modified parts. Some of those parts are going towards Chris Sobak's order. Scott Popham and I are collaborating on some photoetch pieces that will fit with some of the parts I offer too. Here I thought my summer would be less busy.
I don't know the exact cost between a new tooled large scale kit and that of a smaller scaled kit. Regardless of size that figure is still in the 6-figure range. One cost that can kill a kit quick is licensing. Payment for licensing fees can be higher for race subject matter because of all the sponsors that may be on the car. If you haven't noticed there aren't any tires being done anymore with manufacturer names on them because of licensing fees. Import fees play a role too, as they can increase the cost of kits compared to domestic manufacturers. The bottom line is that large scale kits just don't sell as well as smaller kits. The emphasis should be on pushing the manufacturers to include updated parts/features into existing tooling whenever possible. Better than good sales must prevail to justify the expense of even doing new wheels for instance. Cutting new wheels and tires into the existing molding is still $$$ tooling.
One example would be the newly re-released AMT 1/16th 64 1/2 Mustang hardtop kit; just how much of an effort would it have taken to re-cut the mold to make the car a fastback '65 with some killer wheels? I already have 4 of the kits from various issues and would have purchased more had there been some updating. Another straight re-issue doesn't interest me and I hope the kit does well for Round 2's sake.