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    Columbus, OH
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    Brian Wilson

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  1. Yeah.... Trying another route too. I took a look on Hobby Link Japan last night and found a Japanese version of BMF and ordered a couple of sheets. Unfortunately it's backordered. I'll try it out when it comes in. I'm doing the pens in the mean time.
  2. I'm officially stuck now. Trying to build Ecto-1 and I can't do the chrome. The BMF I've got is all the new stuff that doesn't stick and I can't seem to get the stuff they used to make. It's just marked "Chrome", but it's more like the ultra-bright than the original. I can't get chrome pens to cover consistently. I keep getting thin spots or it ends up globby. And unfortunately I don't have the space to try and airbrush anything. Does anyone have any recommendations?
  3. I've been working with the Silver Mirror markers I picked up and having good results. They're VERY chrome when applied and seem to stand up to a little handling a little better than Molotow. The big success I've had so far is on the kit I'm working on now. I'm working on a C5R Corvette and used the markers to paint in the reflectors on the third brake light, tail lights, turn signals and marker lights. Once dry, I hit the third brake and marker lights with clear red. Molotow would have dulled, but this is still reflective underneath. Hope this helps a little.
  4. Right now I'm still running on the last of my Testors Acryl. I've noticed I'm finding more Testors acrylics in sets that have better colors than they used to in the little square bottles. I picked up a set that has light and dark gull grey, OD green, ghost grey, flat tan and flat white. I wonder if they're rolling the Model Master lines into their normal paints? I think I'm gonna switch to Revell Aqua once the Acryl runs out. I use a lot of Citadel paints as well. They have a wide array of colors and their white and red are more opaque than most paints I've worked with.
  5. I use liquid glue to permanently join two pieces of plastic, like engine halves or pieces of styrene for kitbashing. I'm using the Testors liquid glue in a bottle, but I chucked the brush and just use paintbrushes. For parts that I want joined quickly, I'm using Gorilla Glue CA adhesive. Seems to be just thick enough to stay put where I want it and thin enough that it doesn't really act as a filler.
  6. I ordered some chrome markers from Ebay called "Silver Mirror Chrome". There's 3 markers to the set for $12.28 (0.7mm, 1mm and 3mm) and they came from China. Shipping was surprisingly fast. They seem to dry quickly and also seem to be a little more touch resistant than the Molotow pens. I'm going to try them out on some chrome places on cars and see how they handle. Here's the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/373629611290
  7. It seems like the last several times I've to order BMF I've gotten the ultra stuff. It was just marked "chrome". I've even recently tried to order directly from BMF directly and it's backordered. I wonder if there's a supply problem? Unfortunately, I'm out and I'm stuck on a kit until I can get some.
  8. Yep! Funny thing was, I was in the character figures section and found it as a "buy it now".
  9. I lucked into a 1/24 Airfix Aston Martin 007 kit. She's a little gluebombed, but looks to be pretty complete. Got it for $29.
  10. For leaf springs, I typically paint them with a mix of medium grey and steel. Enough to make them metallic looking, but not straight steel like the exhaust. The chassis plate I'll usually do primer edged with with the body color. On 50's cars, that's usually a red oxide primer, newer cars are usually grey primer, then mist the edges with the body color. Once it's all dry I'll do a wash of black to make the details stand out and make it look a little dingy. Exhaust usually gets a wash of rust and then pick out the clamps in bright silver.
  11. Got a Jo-Han 1964 Cadillac DeVille coupe. The body is decent (vent windows are broken, but I can fix that). Got the body, chassis plate and hood. Also picked up a front bumper. I'll piece her together as I go. Got it for $25.
  12. Just had to "park" one. Heller Porsche 917K. There's no positive ways to locate and attach some of the parts, especially the spindly little components of the frame and suspension.
  13. I usually clamp the clear pieces in place and then apply Testors clear parts adhesive with a brush, thinned a little so it flows under the part.
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