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Deathgoblin

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Everything posted by Deathgoblin

  1. I've been working with the Silver Mirror markers I picked up and having good results. They're VERY chrome when applied and seem to stand up to a little handling a little better than Molotow. The big success I've had so far is on the kit I'm working on now. I'm working on a C5R Corvette and used the markers to paint in the reflectors on the third brake light, tail lights, turn signals and marker lights. Once dry, I hit the third brake and marker lights with clear red. Molotow would have dulled, but this is still reflective underneath. Hope this helps a little.
  2. Right now I'm still running on the last of my Testors Acryl. I've noticed I'm finding more Testors acrylics in sets that have better colors than they used to in the little square bottles. I picked up a set that has light and dark gull grey, OD green, ghost grey, flat tan and flat white. I wonder if they're rolling the Model Master lines into their normal paints? I think I'm gonna switch to Revell Aqua once the Acryl runs out. I use a lot of Citadel paints as well. They have a wide array of colors and their white and red are more opaque than most paints I've worked with.
  3. I use liquid glue to permanently join two pieces of plastic, like engine halves or pieces of styrene for kitbashing. I'm using the Testors liquid glue in a bottle, but I chucked the brush and just use paintbrushes. For parts that I want joined quickly, I'm using Gorilla Glue CA adhesive. Seems to be just thick enough to stay put where I want it and thin enough that it doesn't really act as a filler.
  4. I ordered some chrome markers from Ebay called "Silver Mirror Chrome". There's 3 markers to the set for $12.28 (0.7mm, 1mm and 3mm) and they came from China. Shipping was surprisingly fast. They seem to dry quickly and also seem to be a little more touch resistant than the Molotow pens. I'm going to try them out on some chrome places on cars and see how they handle. Here's the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/373629611290
  5. It seems like the last several times I've to order BMF I've gotten the ultra stuff. It was just marked "chrome". I've even recently tried to order directly from BMF directly and it's backordered. I wonder if there's a supply problem? Unfortunately, I'm out and I'm stuck on a kit until I can get some.
  6. Yep! Funny thing was, I was in the character figures section and found it as a "buy it now".
  7. I lucked into a 1/24 Airfix Aston Martin 007 kit. She's a little gluebombed, but looks to be pretty complete. Got it for $29.
  8. For leaf springs, I typically paint them with a mix of medium grey and steel. Enough to make them metallic looking, but not straight steel like the exhaust. The chassis plate I'll usually do primer edged with with the body color. On 50's cars, that's usually a red oxide primer, newer cars are usually grey primer, then mist the edges with the body color. Once it's all dry I'll do a wash of black to make the details stand out and make it look a little dingy. Exhaust usually gets a wash of rust and then pick out the clamps in bright silver.
  9. Got a Jo-Han 1964 Cadillac DeVille coupe. The body is decent (vent windows are broken, but I can fix that). Got the body, chassis plate and hood. Also picked up a front bumper. I'll piece her together as I go. Got it for $25.
  10. Just had to "park" one. Heller Porsche 917K. There's no positive ways to locate and attach some of the parts, especially the spindly little components of the frame and suspension.
  11. I usually clamp the clear pieces in place and then apply Testors clear parts adhesive with a brush, thinned a little so it flows under the part.
  12. I've managed to luck into a few. Picked up a Chrysler Turbine, 31 Cadillac Town Car, S/C Rambler and a 1962 Chrysler 300 convertible. The only one that needs real TLC is the Caddy.
  13. I really like the shape of this. Great salvage work!
  14. I almost always buy kits for subject matter, but kit price also tends to be a factor. Sometimes I don't have the cash to play with sometimes so I'll try to get something cheap. I tend to stick with cars mostly, but I've got a few starships and some anime girls. Box art doesn't matter as much as kit accuracy and quality. I'm perfectly happy buying a kit without a box. So far the only thing I dont care for on model building is painting the body. I dont have a set place to paint the body or set up an airbrush and I suck at spray painting, so I end up having to strip them pretty often. As far as real vehicles I would like to have. I'd want two of my old cars back: my 1972 Buick Skylark hardtop and my 1978 Monte Carlo. I'd also like to have a couple of my brother's cars, an '81 Firebird and a 1971-1973 Dodge Charger. Beyond that, maybe a "land yacht" Cadillac, like a 1973 Brougham.
  15. Testors clear parts adhesive for glass and non-stressed parts. CA for parts that take a little more stress, carefully applied with a toothpick.
  16. I use them all the time for various things. They're great for interiors and detail painting.
  17. Only problems I have with scratch building is just having hammer hands. Big fingers and tiny parts do not mix well
  18. This is good to know. I just got one of these in yesterday.
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