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About Theo

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    John Theodossy

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  1. HI fiatboy I use this regularly for windows and trim parts where crazy glue might cause fogging or other problems. I would describe it as "semi-permanent". It holds well on low stress areas and I love it for clear parts as it dries invisible and allows repositioning the windows, lights etc until I get them where desired without leaving any marks or residue. The parts do remain "removable" and the adhesive does come off similar to the adhesive on mailing labels. I have not used it for mockup purposes although it would work for this with a couple of cautions. It will lift off paint once the parts a pressed in place so personally I would only use for mockups on bare plastic. Also, it does dry very clear, so if doing a mock up on bare plastic be careful during cleanup prior to painting to get all of the adhesive removed. Hope this was helpful.
  2. Time Machine resin

    I think he only sells off of ebay now. I just got a Kellison J4 body from him a couple of weeks ago. It shipped and arrived promptly. Looks to be good quality.
  3. You can also use Bondic http://notaglue.com/ to cast small things like badges. Cures in 10 seconds and ready to sand/ paint /use right away.
  4. Hi espo Spraying some spoons is the plan and I'll let you know what happens. Since the stuff is available at my local ACE, thought maybe someone else had already checked it out.
  5. Hi all, Has anyone ever tried this stuff? http://www.ironlak.com/2014/01/introducing-sugar-artists-acrylic/ I know it is more intended for the graffiti crowd, but they started carrying it at my local hardware store for a good price and the potential for fewer fumes sounds appealing. Thanks for any information Theo
  6. Hudson Kustom

    Hi Chuck The solid purple is flocking and the inserts are embroidery floss over double-sided tape. I got the embroidery floss from Hobby Lobby. A bag of 150 strands in many colors for about $10. It is probably enough for 2 life-times worth of builds. Thanks for looking Theo
  7. Hudson Kustom

    Hi all. This is my first WIP post so be honest and gentle. I very much enjoyed the building the stock versions of the Moebius Hornet so thought I would give a go at building a "lowrider/kustom" version. Lowered the stance (3d printed modified front spindles), wheels/tires from the parts box, flocked and custom interior, wired engine with fuel lines, and pearl/metallic/purple body. I wanted to take a few images before the details get lost in final assembly. Thanks for looking. Appreciate any comments and feedback.
  8. Hi all Unusually question. I am starting a new project with some brass finish parts. I have been experimenting with spray can brass (specifically Rustoleum) but not getting the "metallic shine" I desire. I know that Alclad has a high shine brass, but I do not have an airbrush. I do have those disposable Preval sprayers. The Alclad instructions call for it to be sprayed at 15-20 psi. The Preval sprayers go at around 60-70 psi. Anyone have any idea what would happen spraying the Alclad at 60-70 psi? Thanks for any information
  9. When did color fall out of favor?

    WOW! I don't know guys, my experience with the new Challenger sounds like I have a completely different car than all of you are experiencing. It is my wife's car (plum crazy since this is a post on colors) and my daughter has claimed the front seat so I regularly sit in the back. Not the roomiest, but more than adequate space for my 5-11 175 frame. Head room not an issue, leg room borderlinel, but similar to most airline seats. As far as sitting low in the pilot seat, there is about 6 inches of up and down movement with the seat controls so can adjust to satisfy most. Trunk space is quite roomy, holding at least enough luggage for a family of 4 (including wife and teenage daughter) for a week vacation with room to spare for a couple bags of groceries. In fact it seems on par with the old Volvo wagon's wayback (which is the car it replaced. As for rear vision, well. . . OK no that great. The best I can say on that is that it is better than the Camaros.
  10. Round2 kit issues

    Hi gluebum I had the same issue with an older release of amt 53 ford truck (not sure exactly which release but in this box) Never did figure out why, but went through several rounds of prime, paint, strip, repeat. Eventually I got an almost acceptable primer coat down on the body, gently sanded the remaining bubbles, added some rust and build the kit "rat rod style". I know not any help in this, but hopefully feel better knowing you are not alone.
  11. When did color fall out of favor?

    Hi all I also miss the color and style choices of the past. Remember when you could look at a sedan and tell the maker just by the styling? Last car I purchased was earlier this year for my wife, the 2 driving forces for the purchase were color and style. A Plum Crazy Challenger was the result. Seldom see another one in the parking lot of wherever we are.
  12. I use both. The embossing powder is finer and takes paint well, so you can use clear or white and paint whatever color you want. The down side to painting it is that you lose the soft texture to the touch. It does look more in scale for short nap carpet and upholstery (think 60s-70s carpets). If you are going for the more shag type appearance (think lowrider or customs carpets and upholstery) I find flocking looks better. Using the color flocking also allows you to retain the fluffy texture to the touch. I also find the embossing powder is easier to get laid down with an even layer. I do not find one or the other superior, just different depending on the look and feel you are going for.
  13. Hi all, Anyone managed to make a working hood hinge for the Moebius 53 Hudson Hornet? I have made many door and hood hinges, but can't seem to figure out out to get one on the Hornet given the relatively tight underhood space and the style of the mold. Would really like to do a front tilt/suicide style hood, but at this point just interested to see any examples of any working hoods for this kit. Thanks for any suggestions Theo
  14. Anyone use the XYZ da Vinci Junior 1.0 3D Printer

    Hi iceman Please excuse my less than great photographic skills. This is a set of disc calipers fresh out of the printer. The disc is also from a prior print. These were specifically make for the Pegasus wheel shown. The pattern on the disc was my attempt at making it look like a vented disc. The calipers need a bit of clean up but not bad for such tiny pieces. Not up to par for high end resin pieces, but I can print as many as I want whenever needed, and can modify if desired. Probably not an issue for brake calipers, but for other things such as rims and such, I am hoping to eventually have some basic templates that can be easily adjusted, modified, resized, etc to allow for easy customized accessories.
  15. Anyone use the XYZ da Vinci Junior 1.0 3D Printer

    I got the daVinci duo for Christmas. So far I am finding it to be a good consumer level home 3D printer. If you are looking at 3D printers I am sure you are already aware of some of these things but to make sure here are a couple things to keep in mind: 1. There is quite a learning curve unless you already have an extensive background in 3D CAD design. Working with the files is not always intuitive and getting everything set to print out correctly is not always straight forward. There are many things to consider that I was not aware of before getting the printer. Things like providing appropriate supports for the model, correct amount of internal structure, filament thickness, etc. 2. You should consider the output from the printer as "component" rather than a finished piece. Out of the machine (even with the highest quality settings) the models have very apparent layers and have a flat (non glossy) finish. If you want a smooth glossy finish you have to do some finishing work. Sometimes you can manipulate the orientation of the model to have the layer pattern appear as intentional. There are some pretty cool tricks to making the models smooth and glossy in addition to the usual sanding and painting, but however you do it there is some finishing work required. 3. As far as the daVinci machines specifically, I am quite happy with mine so far. The price/value is excellent and I have found machine pretty easy to use. Most of my issues have been related to operator errors rather than the machine itself. There are a couple of things about the daVinci to be aware. The filament comes in a proprietary casing and is a bit more pricey than generic filament. For me this has not been an issue and their filament seems to be of good quality. There are work arounds if you want to use generic filament but I have not felt the need to do this. Also the software that preps the model for printing (slicing program) is also proprietary and not the best around but gets the job done. It can be slow and does choke on large complex models. If this is a problem there are 3rd party software packages that can interface with the printer, but they run about $150. 4. What have I made so far? Honestly mostly little statues/action figures for my daughter (Pokemon etc). I have made a "busts" of things like Darth Vadar, a few hood ornaments and car badges for display, and a few scale parts for cars (disc brake sets with calipers, custom rear view mirrors, battery). I have a couple plans I am working on for body components to modify kits as well, but have not tried to print these out yet. Hope this helps Theo