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About Theo

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    John Theodossy

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  1. Another option is to heavily dilute a flat white acrylic and brush over the "faded" areas repeatedly until you get the desired appearance.
  2. Here is another option of a polishing powder. I have had good luck with this but not used it on an entire body, mostly things like valve covers. The final appearance is very dependent on the base coat color. Works best over darker colors. I have used over black, dark blue, and burgundy all successfully with distinct appearance for each. It did not look good over white or yellow. The sheen also comes from the base coat. I have not used over a flat, but there is definitely a different final sheen over semi-gloss than high gloss. https://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/polishing-powders-metallic-pigments/
  3. Monogram 53 Chevy Bel Air. Have built this one 3 times already and every time I think of a new variation part way through the build.
  4. Bondic is my tool of choice for these. Multiple light layers until the desired look is achieved. Trying to do one heavy layer sometimes results in tiny bubbles that are visible.
  5. Hi Monty, As most have said lacquer over enamel is not the common practice. That said, I have made this exact situation work doing essentially what you said you are planning to do with the Testors Wet Look. Only difference for me was I was using all Testors paints. This is what worked for me: 1. Prep and primer 2. Testors enamel, allowed to dry for about a week. 3. Testors Wet Look allowed to dry for a couple of days. 4. Taped off desired pattern. 5. Testors Lacquer allowed to dry a couple of days. 6. Several coats more of Wet Look I thinks as long as you give the enamel enough time to dry the Wet Look is safe to use and should seal the enamel from the next coat of color lacquer. (At least that was what I was assuming would happen when I did it.). For my build there were actually 2 enamel coats prior to the lacquer color with each color coat separated by a coat of Wet Look. No problems at the time of spraying or during polishing. I can't speak to longevity as I did this less than a year ago. Not sure if the tamiya will play nice with the Testors but if it were me I would go for it and if it doesn't work sent the body into the vat of stripper of your choosing ( I like Simple Green, but that is a whole other discussion). Have fun Theo
  6. If you have an Ikea within driving distance, this is a nice affordable option (although not totally sealed). I have a couple of them and can fit about 5 cars easily on each shelf. With some acrylic risers can get up to 9-10 per shelf. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80269122/#/10119206
  7. I have used Minwax Polycrylic a few times and it has worked for me, although not as deep a shine as other clears. https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish
  8. Hi jeffdeoranut, I use these periodically and find them useful in a few situations. They are NOT an airbrush substitute, and only moderately "better" than spray cans (which is my most used paint delivery system). I have sprayed both acrylics and enamels (appropriately thinned) with no issues. I was very happy with the results using it to spray the microscale gloss clear. I have not yet tried spraying premixed airbrush paints with it, but it is on my todo list and I don't see why it wouldn't work. I find the spray thinner and lighter, but without really any more control than the typical spray can. Coats usually come out pretty even and since a little light sometimes need to put on an extra coat compared to spray cans.
  9. HI fiatboy I use this regularly for windows and trim parts where crazy glue might cause fogging or other problems. I would describe it as "semi-permanent". It holds well on low stress areas and I love it for clear parts as it dries invisible and allows repositioning the windows, lights etc until I get them where desired without leaving any marks or residue. The parts do remain "removable" and the adhesive does come off similar to the adhesive on mailing labels. I have not used it for mockup purposes although it would work for this with a couple of cautions. It will lift off paint once the parts a pressed in place so personally I would only use for mockups on bare plastic. Also, it does dry very clear, so if doing a mock up on bare plastic be careful during cleanup prior to painting to get all of the adhesive removed. Hope this was helpful.
  10. I think he only sells off of ebay now. I just got a Kellison J4 body from him a couple of weeks ago. It shipped and arrived promptly. Looks to be good quality.
  11. You can also use Bondic http://notaglue.com/ to cast small things like badges. Cures in 10 seconds and ready to sand/ paint /use right away.
  12. Hi espo Spraying some spoons is the plan and I'll let you know what happens. Since the stuff is available at my local ACE, thought maybe someone else had already checked it out.
  13. Hi all, Has anyone ever tried this stuff? http://www.ironlak.com/2014/01/introducing-sugar-artists-acrylic/ I know it is more intended for the graffiti crowd, but they started carrying it at my local hardware store for a good price and the potential for fewer fumes sounds appealing. Thanks for any information Theo
  14. Theo

    Hudson Kustom

    Hi Chuck The solid purple is flocking and the inserts are embroidery floss over double-sided tape. I got the embroidery floss from Hobby Lobby. A bag of 150 strands in many colors for about $10. It is probably enough for 2 life-times worth of builds. Thanks for looking Theo
  15. Hi all. This is my first WIP post so be honest and gentle. I very much enjoyed the building the stock versions of the Moebius Hornet so thought I would give a go at building a "lowrider/kustom" version. Lowered the stance (3d printed modified front spindles), wheels/tires from the parts box, flocked and custom interior, wired engine with fuel lines, and pearl/metallic/purple body. I wanted to take a few images before the details get lost in final assembly. Thanks for looking. Appreciate any comments and feedback.
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