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Theo

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About Theo

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  • Location
    USA
  • Full Name
    John Theodossy

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  1. 1965 Cheetah Roadster Race Car - R&D Unique Shows up on ebay every now and again. Theo
  2. Hi Fantom, I have used Roth Rattle Bombs a few times. The paint lays down well and flashes out quickly. It seems to play nice with almost any primer ( I have used both Krylon and Rustoleum 2x white and black without issues). As for clear coat, also no issues with a variety of products (Testors wetlook, Rustoleum Crystal Clear, and Krylon). As for Flake size/scale, it depends on which of the product lines you are looking at. The basecoats have small particles that look in-scale-enough to my eye. The Flake products have much larger particles that are out of scale unless you are looking to do a 60-70's style dune buggy type thing. The Pearl products have really tiny particles, again look in-scale-enough to me. On thing on the Pearls is that some of them are quite subtle (don't remember which on exactly, but at least one of the Purples). It was barely visible on anything but white basecoat without really piling on the coats. The All-in One Bombs are very dramatic with all kinds of particles in all kinds of sizes. A very dramatic look. I found these quite fun as the you can get very cool effects and varying appearances by changing the color of the base coat and how heavy you lay on the Bomb. The final look is definitely not "stock" but cool looking for customs, low-riders, 1/12 bikes, and wild show cars. I would use them more if cheaper, but like the products. Hope this is helpful Theo
  3. Hi all, Thanks for all the input. So here is what happened. The initial decal placement was over a gloss finish done without any setting solution. Decals seemed to go on without any problems and were crystal clear. Next morning they looked as I showed. Decals were firmly in place. First I tried putting MicroSet over top of the decals hoping they might settle and clear, no go with this. Then tried MicroSol also without improvement. Then thought I would try to put pinholes as suggested and trying setting solution again, but alas tore them beyond recovery with this maneuver. So I pulled them off with masking tape. When I looked at the removed decals which came off mostly intact (other than the tears I created) the clear areas were very yellowed. So in the end I think the issue was old/bad adhesive. thanks again for the feedback. Theo
  4. Any advice on what happened to these decals or how to fix? For reference, the script is white on a clear background. They went on without issue and were crystal clear after placement. The next morning they are clouded as shown. Thanks for any thoughts Theo
  5. Another option is to heavily dilute a flat white acrylic and brush over the "faded" areas repeatedly until you get the desired appearance.
  6. Here is another option of a polishing powder. I have had good luck with this but not used it on an entire body, mostly things like valve covers. The final appearance is very dependent on the base coat color. Works best over darker colors. I have used over black, dark blue, and burgundy all successfully with distinct appearance for each. It did not look good over white or yellow. The sheen also comes from the base coat. I have not used over a flat, but there is definitely a different final sheen over semi-gloss than high gloss. https://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/polishing-powders-metallic-pigments/
  7. Monogram 53 Chevy Bel Air. Have built this one 3 times already and every time I think of a new variation part way through the build.
  8. Bondic is my tool of choice for these. Multiple light layers until the desired look is achieved. Trying to do one heavy layer sometimes results in tiny bubbles that are visible.
  9. Hi Monty, As most have said lacquer over enamel is not the common practice. That said, I have made this exact situation work doing essentially what you said you are planning to do with the Testors Wet Look. Only difference for me was I was using all Testors paints. This is what worked for me: 1. Prep and primer 2. Testors enamel, allowed to dry for about a week. 3. Testors Wet Look allowed to dry for a couple of days. 4. Taped off desired pattern. 5. Testors Lacquer allowed to dry a couple of days. 6. Several coats more of Wet Look I thinks as long as you give the enamel enough time to dry the Wet Look is safe to use and should seal the enamel from the next coat of color lacquer. (At least that was what I was assuming would happen when I did it.). For my build there were actually 2 enamel coats prior to the lacquer color with each color coat separated by a coat of Wet Look. No problems at the time of spraying or during polishing. I can't speak to longevity as I did this less than a year ago. Not sure if the tamiya will play nice with the Testors but if it were me I would go for it and if it doesn't work sent the body into the vat of stripper of your choosing ( I like Simple Green, but that is a whole other discussion). Have fun Theo
  10. If you have an Ikea within driving distance, this is a nice affordable option (although not totally sealed). I have a couple of them and can fit about 5 cars easily on each shelf. With some acrylic risers can get up to 9-10 per shelf. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80269122/#/10119206
  11. I have used Minwax Polycrylic a few times and it has worked for me, although not as deep a shine as other clears. https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish
  12. Hi jeffdeoranut, I use these periodically and find them useful in a few situations. They are NOT an airbrush substitute, and only moderately "better" than spray cans (which is my most used paint delivery system). I have sprayed both acrylics and enamels (appropriately thinned) with no issues. I was very happy with the results using it to spray the microscale gloss clear. I have not yet tried spraying premixed airbrush paints with it, but it is on my todo list and I don't see why it wouldn't work. I find the spray thinner and lighter, but without really any more control than the typical spray can. Coats usually come out pretty even and since a little light sometimes need to put on an extra coat compared to spray cans.
  13. HI fiatboy I use this regularly for windows and trim parts where crazy glue might cause fogging or other problems. I would describe it as "semi-permanent". It holds well on low stress areas and I love it for clear parts as it dries invisible and allows repositioning the windows, lights etc until I get them where desired without leaving any marks or residue. The parts do remain "removable" and the adhesive does come off similar to the adhesive on mailing labels. I have not used it for mockup purposes although it would work for this with a couple of cautions. It will lift off paint once the parts a pressed in place so personally I would only use for mockups on bare plastic. Also, it does dry very clear, so if doing a mock up on bare plastic be careful during cleanup prior to painting to get all of the adhesive removed. Hope this was helpful.
  14. I think he only sells off of ebay now. I just got a Kellison J4 body from him a couple of weeks ago. It shipped and arrived promptly. Looks to be good quality.
  15. You can also use Bondic http://notaglue.com/ to cast small things like badges. Cures in 10 seconds and ready to sand/ paint /use right away.
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