Greg Wann

Hi All, I now have this gorgeous body in my possession. Mike did a amazing job on this project. He learned some new skills and techniques from this body. Thank you, Mike.

This is very cool. Search: Barchetta3500.com I actually now own car number 4. Darryl has been working on it to bring back to as new condition from when he first built it.

Yes, I have some made up.

I might be able to help you. What material is your master tire made from? Got pics?

Someone bought one of my 75 dollar 4dr Nova transkits and sold it on the bay for 300 bucks. If the buyer knew my price I'm sure he would have bought it from me instead.

Yes, Tom it is. I have helped people monetarily and other means only to get used and actually feel like I have become a slave to them.

Wow! Tom, that is lot of great mastering work.

Those parts look very impressive.

No, I dont do it anymore. The kits above are better deals anyway.

Ok, I asked the guy that I do custom work for. He is a professional model builder. He also restores real cars. You need to buy a Du Pont product called Prep Sol. You will have to buy it from a auto body paint shop. It's about $50.00 for a gallon. He has been building resin kits for many years now. He told me that today that the quality of resin kits that a lot of casters is just worthless. He has people send him kits to build and the surface is impossible to even prep to get paint on it! He said it seems that somehow mold release is somehow absorbed in the resin part also there are a lot of fine tiny holes. He got a kit and it is rubbery and it is junk. It came from someone in Tennesee. Some bodies are very thick and a lot of work goes into opening up window openings and pillars and then after all that time consuming sanding and filling windows don't fit right. Having a vacuum chamber and pump is a must have items to make good parts. I vacuum my resin down before I measure and mix the two parts together. Vacuuming or de airing the resin will remove moisture from it. Then I pressure cast the mold with weight on top of the mold. This helps create very thin flash around the part. I spray mold release in the molds but then I let it set for a few minutes for the release to gas out. Spraying release on the mold and making a part right away will cause parts to be rubbery and not cure correctly. There is a lot to know to make good parts.

Not that I know of.

I have one of these mint Mod Squad kits.

OK, I called this company and the wonderful lady there is sending me free sample cans of this and a EMI brand A479. Both are are non silicone and food grade rated as well. I should get them next week and I will do some product testing.

https://www.emicorp.com/item/ME+514E/A514-Zip-Paintable-Food-Grade-Mold-Release/ I'm not certain why as resin casters of model car parts that need gluing, painting and plating why we don't use a product like this. This product seems to be a good match for what we do. The biggest hurdle of the process is making a two part mold. The release is really important to make certain the two different pours (top half and bottom half don't bond together and become one mold trapping the parts inside. Having to do surgery with a exact knife to hopefully cut the mold up with enough care as to not ruin a rare part.

I had not thought about discoloration since I have not actually tried it. I suppose it is ironic that I know how to make nice resin parts but dont know squat about prepping them for painting. I do have some mold release that is paintable and food grade. If casters would use that then all the worries would not exist for prepping parts to paint and build.