Hi James, I still make them, but it is a handfull of parts. Email me: firstname.lastname@example.org I also emptied my inbox on this forum. If you want one of these or the Fox parts you can contact me here or my email. Thank you, Greg
I would say a cheap vinyl. Take some time to consider a color or pattern. If you drop a part you will want to find it easily. I have dropped PE parts on a wood grain work table right in front of me and they are very hard to find.
MARK Put some panty hose over the end of a vacuum hose and start working that carpet.
I have made tires with good luck in the past. I used Polytek PT flex 50 and 70. It is easy to dye black and cures within a hour. It is expensive though. There are material compatibility issues that can be a real problem. When I switched silicones the Polytek material would come out uncured on the surface of the part. This put a real damper on my confidence about making tires. Calling tech support for different companies is the best advice I can give. I have spent plenty of money on material only to find it was not successful in use. It does get discouraging. I switched from using Aeromarines purple silicone, a tin silicone to Smooth- On MoldStar 30, a platinum silicone.
AWESOME STUFF. What material are you using for your rubber tires? I would really like to know what you chose. I have had the best luck with the Polytek PT flex 70. Easy to dye black and cures quickly. I typically use SMOOTH - ON products but their similar material takes 16 hours to cure. My luck with it has been hit and miss. Sometimes after waiting hours it's surface might still be sticky.
Craig, Don't give up on trying the resin casting. The link will take you to some of my posts on our local model forum. Two part molds are not hard to make at all. I make two part molds for flat items too. It just takes some patience. If you have the skill to create a part from scratch then the mold making and casting can be just as enjoyable.....well there are frustrations to overcome like anything else. I have two advantages I believe. One is living in a low humidity area, the other is being able to go to a store in Tempe that sells all the SMOOTH - ON products I need fresh off the shelf and all the free expert advice I need to get a project going. It also takes some equipment to get it done right and keep resin products sustained. Even here resin can still draw in moisture. I need to put it in a vacuum chamber and have the vacuum pump remove it. Curing resin can reach 140 degrees as it creates a thermal heat to cure. If there is moisture in the resin it will become frothy and make crappy parts. You can learn to make some really awesome stuff! I will soon be teaching a guy that is a professional model builder and also does body work on real cars. High dollar collector race cars mostly.