Greg Wann

http://www.fireballmodels.info/ Contact Joseph and ask him. He offers a printing service. He designed and sent me six master tires for the 88 to 91 Ford Crown Victoria resin kit. Here are some rubbery resin copies. I use Polytek PT Flex 70 with some black dye added.

This is a rare kit, I do like it. It would be a investment for me. I'm sure if it were resin, it would be a desirable subject. I would like one of these mint Myers Manx Tow'd kits too.

I removed this some time ago from a Franklin mint 1:24 scale Mercedes 300 SLR race car. Just for fun, I could try to make a mold. It does not look too complicated. These might be a bit too big for a 1:25 scale car but great for a car or a truck build

http://ponchoperfection.com/ If Pontiacs are your love machine, you will be interested in this link.

https://svc.org/ Here is a link to The Society of Vacuum Coaters. I found a helpful guy who gave me this professors information. Since I work there, meeting this guy in his laboratory might be very easy. Kevin Hilgers Arizona State University Phoenix, AZ, Phone: 480-727-7142 E-mail: kevin.hilgers@asu.edu http://www.semicore.com/sputtering-systems The SC450 is $120,000.00

https://www.californiaairtools.com/ You could purchase one from this company. They are quiet too. If you want it to be more quiet throw a blanket over it or put it in a box. You just want to put it in a cool room and drain the tank on a regular basis. You also might want to consider a dehumidifier in your paint /model room too if you live in a high humidity area. I put one in my resin casting shop. I was surprised that even though I live in Aridzona, the tank was full in 24 hours. There are air compressors made specifically for medical and dental offices that are super quiet like a scroll rotary compressor. You might find a deal on something like this. https://eatoncompressor.com/product/7-5hp-quiet-air-compressor-single-phase-80-gallon-vertical/#technical-specifications I bought one of these used for my resin casting shop. It only runs once a day that I am aware of. It has a optional baffle that makes it run pretty quiet for it's size.

I vote yes. But get the extended warranty. Mine did not pulse and I thought it worked great. Think about air brushing nail polish. There are some very cool colors. If you have a beauty supply shop near you like a Sally Beauty, they sell small containers of nail polish thinner. This way you don't have to store large amounts of any kind of thinners. Nail polish dries pretty fast too. Buy a bottle of Bare Metal Foil Plastic polish to rub out your cured paint job too. It is cheap and works great on paint but is made to remove scuffs and scratches on clear model glass. Also dollar stores sell nail polish but the color selection might not be extensive but a cheap way to practice. Also buy a decent double action air brush and learn how to use it if you have not bought one already.

I have not seen these before. I do some custom casting work for a guy that has mentioned mylar decals. They are raised like a photo etch part. I think they would take special equipment and be pricy but could be very nicely detailed too. If you want to make your own decals that can be white, silver or two different gold colors search decal pro FX dry transfers. https://decalprofx.com/ I have applied the image to waterslide decal paper and sealed them, then use as usual. There are a lot of steps and a learning curve. Unless you have a alps printer, this might be your only hope. The kit is pretty cheap. Be certain to buy the toner image applicator too. http://www.fireballmodels.info/ You might ask Chief Joseph to make scripts for you too. This is probably what you are wanting for your special model builds.

Absolutely gorgeous work. Would you let me drive it?

He has been having health issues. It has been keeping him down and out.

Yes, that is one of the reasons I did not go for it. Mostly it was about staying focused on the resin casting. Unfortunately, I have too many interests! I know I can't do it all, but if I had some equipment it might create a reasonably nice job for someone who has some sort of interest in model parts. Once the equipment is operational other things can be metalized too. There are color tints that can be mixed in as well. I have some red and blue items that Louis Bernier sent to me from Canada some time ago. He could do the chrome, red, blue, copper, gold and I think a black chrome as well.

Thank you Mike, You have some 67 Camaro convertible bodies I made? Are they made from the bright white resin I first started using? How well are they holding up? I am curious. https://www.platingsales.com/index.html I had a $5,000.00 check ready to send here but was talked out of purchasing the equipment. I would like plating . I have trouble staying focused on resin casting. I have a horrible case of ADHD too.

Perhaps Dale Horner or someone here could point me to some equipment to purchase.

OK, I might have jumped the gun, but I still have a interest in the vacuuming plating process

Thank you Cristopher, I am certainly interested in how big the equipment is. How much space I need to properly house it operate it. and of course, the cost. There are other coatings that are applied to materials for hardness and wear in vehicles and furniture and the tool and die industry. Here is an example . I just don't have a million bucks for the equipment. https://vergason.com/services/about-vtis-products/

Nice work as usual, Paul

Thanks, I do appreciate the offer to help. How about you move to Sunny, dry Aridzona to run the operation instead? I can't get anybody to help make parts besides Mike and Harold. Mike told me he has no interest as he has real car projects to do. I just turned 61. I know I don't want to do plumbing anymore but casting and plating I would do. I am sure there is a lot to know about plating, especially when you know you can do other colors too. I can't imagine what to do after a so called retirement is engaged in. I am not just going to set around and turn to mush, you just can't stop breathing. I have not asked Harold, maybe he would consider doing it.

SWEET!

I really wish I knew how to purchase Dale Horners equipment. Honestly, I don't even know what he has for equipment but I could probably put a couple of people to work doing the plating. There are other coatings that are applied to plastics that are hard wear coatings on car parts and furniture. I have a deal with a buddy in Apache Junction. Perhaps the equipment could be set up there and the business operated. It could be part of my Holy Grail Hobbies and Resin Emporium dream. Purchasing equipment that I know is properly functioning would be great for me. Can you hook me up with him? I really need more physical help with the resin casting I do. I don't really get it. I put a note out to the members of the two model car clubs here in the phoenix area to offer a decent paying job making model car parts to help build the business. The response was like dead air and crickets chirping. There could even be a night shift, so to speak. I just need some resposible people to help. It is not hard work either. It is labor intensive though, but so is building a model. DUH! You would think a model builder would love to have a part in the resin world. Mike Schnur and Harold Oswald came over yesterday and made lots of good parts. We have a lot of fun too. I do appreciate their help. Greg

https://www.bare-metal.com/model-building-molding-specialty-items.html http://www.koalaproducts.net/polish.htm Bare Metal Foil sells a wonderful product for removing scuffs and light scratches from glass. It is also good for rubbing out fresh paint jobs too. It is an inexpensive product too. It was unavailable for a long time but is back in their product line. While it is very thin it, it is very effective. Koala works great too, but is quite expensive. While the BMF polish was unavailable, I spent butt loads of money on polishes that would replace it's worth. Koala was my only worthy rival. Remember, I am the guy that goes nuts over a free Starbucks coffee stirring stick! My wife was a school teacher for several years. She is pretty sure I am autistic, I could agree. I am not much for book learning.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-arh-001&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=arh&p=i+wanna+bear+your+children+sctv#id=1&vid=7efb0ebc43220f04f414f4ae48536ce9&action=click PRICELESS

That was funny stuff

OK EH! There's Beaumont parts here eh!. You should all get some resin parts from Mike Schnur Eh! How about a "what if" Baldwin Motion Beaumont eh!? I always enjoyed watching Second City Television back in the late 70'S. Much funnier than SNL. This is where John Candy and others started. Mrs. Falbo's Tiny town. Someone would blow up real good on the morning farm report, The fishin' Musician, the list goes on. This is where I first heard the band called "The Tubes" AWSOME MUSIC TOO. They are actually from Tempe, Arizona I did not think Canadians actually spoke like that until I met a couple while working at Purdue University building a new laboratory. They were a couple of funny guys. My Dad used to watch the Red Green Show. That was just too funny too. I presume you guys don't build models with duct tape, eh?

https://www.reynoldsam.com/ https://www.alumilite.com/ HMMM. chapter one: Do you have a room that you can work in that will keep a mostly constant temperature? I try to keep my shop at 78 in the summer heat or lower. Having a dehumidifier will be a plus. How you seal and store your resin when you are not using it is very important. Despite having a 800 SF shop on the back of my property that is heated and air conditioned and has a dehumidifier there can still be problems. The resin can still get humidity in it. Sometimes resin is mixed and poured into a mold and it will foam up looking something like the foam sealant you fill holes with out of a pressurized can. The resin will reach a temperature of around 160 degrees, and that is pretty hot by the way. It is pretty scientific. Once the two components are mixed together, you better get your butt in gear. It does not care and it is not going to wait to start curing. You can however refrigerate the two bottles before use, it might get you two more minutes before it starts curing or kicking as some would say. I suppose I should do videos but I just don't really care to be another look at me know it all guys that can't wait to be a TV star or a legend in their own minds, you know the type. I digress, lets see....OH, I use a vacuum chamber and a Robinair 1500 two stage pump to remove moisture from my materials. I also use it to remove air from my silicone once it is mixed. I think it is important to be thoughtful when you read a manufacturer note that the silicone you are using does not need to be degassed. With my experience, this is a CYA statement. What are the parameters? OK......for me, a body mold might be 4 inches thick. That does not seem like much. Once you mix the silicone components together, it will be full of air, lots of tiny bubbles. Tiny bubbles can get trapped or settle next to the detail of your part, that is not good. Your freshly mixed silicone based on other environmental reasons like temperature might start getting gooey pretty quickly. If you have a lot of years of experience with paint and fixing bodies with various materials then you already know that messes will happen and there can be failure. So while the thousands of tiny bubbles are escaping the freshly mixed silicone it is also starting to cure. Silicone does not get hot while it is curing, I think it is refered to as cold cure silicone. Please don't try to make some kind of pourable liquid silicone from a tube of silicone. This is such a waste of time, money and mostly mental energy, it can be stressful too. I use SMOOTH -ON products because I can drive to their showroom and buy it off the shelf. If you are only doing small stuff then buy a starter kit. chapter two: Mixing the two resin parts together are very important. First thing is, I detest popsicle sticks, there are too thick and too wide. I like the coffee stirrers from Starbucks, crazy stuff huh? Who woulda thought? They are pretty uniform, they are made from some kind of hardwood and they don't break often. Are you bored yet? I thought you might be. I prefer a 25 ML glass beaker as the walls of them are perpendicular? What I mean is that the top is not wider than the base on it's interior circumference. WOW! that's like professor talk. In an attempt at a sort of wax on, wax off lesson, it is important to mix the two components with great specificity. LOL So you will take the free Starbucks coffee stirrer in one hand, your acquired 25 ML glass beaker in the other. Become one with the stirrer, be the stirrer! Hold the container still and move the stirring stick so that it is scraping the edges of the acquired 25 ML beaker. HEY! Don't smirk and roll your eyes, this is truly important information. It is like giving away a ancient Chinese secret. You want to be a master caster don't you? You do realize that all the time I have been setting here this morning I am not out in my shop doing what I am supposed to be doing, Right? Making model car parts. I am off work to take it easy from my kidney removal surgery. chapter three:

http://www.darrylstarbird.com/ Darryl Starbird would be so proud of you.