Actually the camera made the Talladega look much darker. The blue is the one recommended, over gray primer and looks like every 1:1 Petty car I have ever seen in real life. I just double checked my paint number and it was TS-23 Light Blue.
Tamiya TS-10 TS-23 Light Blue sprayed over Tamiya grey primer. I have used it over white primer but the color really looks best over grey primer. Perfect match for Petty blue. No clear coat required and one of the easiest paints I have found to work with. The camera made the car look much darker than it is in person.
Jesse, your Cobra is totally amazing! I am beyond impressed! I had the chance to see in person the Cobra works in progress of Bob Peeble's before they all went to the model cars museum. Very detailed for correctness and a work of pure love for the cars. A tragedy that he didn't get to finish them.
That FRS is a great little car, very fun to drive, the power to weight ratio and being rear wheel drive will make you a believer. In the real world, the car is already badged as a Toyota, they also make one badged as another brand, I forget which. For some reason in the USA Toyota decided to badge the car as a Scion instead of as a Toyota. Perhaps to boost the Scion image. If I was looking for a 2 seat, really fun little car, I would not hesitate to buy a FRS. Nice looking too. To be practical, I will keep my Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and not buy a 2 seater anytime soon.
Ok, you made a purchase of gear that will likely work but it is not the top of the line for airbrushing gear. Like someone else above has said, the airbrush is likely clogged with thick paint or dried paint. Clean it thoroughly first. A hardware store should have some fittings that will allow you to reposition the regulator and tighten it up. The most critical thing about using an airbrush it the mixture of the media, the paint. Too much thinner and it will run, not cover well and give poor results. Too little thinner and the paint will spray poorly, leave a dull, rough finish and make airbrushing seem like a waste of time and money. A couple of tips that I have learned along the way, when buying an airbrush make sure it is "solvent" proof. That means can you clean it with strong solvents like lacquer thinner. If it is not solvent proof, the seals and other parts of it will melt in the solvent. Not good. The little compressors like the one in your picture are not that much fun to use, they are very noisy and the thing must run constantly while painting. It is hard to maintain the exact same pressure at the airbrush because the compressor is likely not able to keep up, it pulses as a result. Plus the loud noise is distracting. Gravity feed airbrushes are designed for illustrators using inks, not for model painting with paints, which are thicker. You can get a different nozzle and needle for paints but as a general rule, gravity feeders come with small nozzles and fine needles to use with inks. I for one, do not use one and prefer the quick change of bottles. Do not think that a particular type of airbrush is the solve all that will turn paint jobs into works of art. My personal recommendation for a good setup for a beginner is a Paasche VL set with all nozzle/needle sizes included, under $100. A silent compressor with a small air tank is a huge help. I recently bought one off Amazon with a regulator, a small tank built in and it is nearly totally silent. I can paint all day without any distracting noise. Cost me $100, shipped. A few things I consider important for successful airbrushing is a good cleaning kit of brushes and some spare seals. The biggest thing to a good paint job is good paints. While there are great paints available today, some require a lot more skill and experience to use. The mixing is critical and the thinners are very specific for a particular paint brand/type. Try so me pre-thinned. airbrush ready paints, that way you can see what results are possible without learning the thinning process. You can learn to mix paints and thinners as you go. A good rule is to use thinner made specifically for the paints. Such as Testor's Model Master enamel and Testor's Model Master thinner, directions are on the thinner can for general guidance. Have fun and good luck!
We have plenty of choices here in the Phoenix area. The one place that I like most to eat in the world is only in Missouri,, Lambert's Café. If anyone has ever eaten there you'll know what I mean. They throw fresh rolls to you all the time and serve more than you could ever eat, with free seconds, food heaven!
In Arizona we have In and Out, Culver's, Five Guys and Steak and Shake. I prefer Five Guys over the others. I have a Culver's within a mile of my house but quit going there. I went a lot when they first opened but the price would go up each trip, for the same burger. I do not like mayonnaise or any facsimile on a hamburger and trying every trip to In and Out to have their salad dressing left off, they always smear it on anyway. I have not tried Steak and Shake, 15 or more miles away. I do like Five Guys, they put whatever you ask for on a freshly made burger and their meat is good. The fries are good to me but I can't eat that many, so seldom order any. I like White Castle but they are not in this area, unfortunately. Harold and Kumar cannot be wrong!
Thank you Danno for the kind offer. As it turns out the Scalefinishes paints arrived this afternoon. I am done with models until I return from my annual Christmas road trip. Would have gotten a few done if the paint had gotten here sooner but I did work on other things and just pushed some to the back of the calendar.
I agree Gerry. Jameston is a great young man, I have dealt with him in person on occasion and I can fully vouch for his integrity. I used to get my orders within 5 or 6 days, consistently and I know he has graduated and working full time now at a regular job and things are a little slower. Some wait time is acceptable but at some point it crosses a line. In my case, I had 3 cars going and all three needed paints. I was fully planning to being done with at least two of these cars before I left for my annual Christmas road trip, now it looks like I will be lucky to even have the paint in hand before I leave. So, for me, it was extra frustrating to not receive my order in a reasonable time. Had it not been at this particular time, I would not be upset so my circumstances are a large part of my frustrations. Again, I have total faith in Jameston and his product is second to none. I wish him all the best in getting caught up, dealing with the work load and I hope he gets to a place in his life where he can run smoothly without working himself too hard. A truly nice young man.
That was very awesome! Thank you Greg for posting that link. Don't you wish you had any one of those classic cars? Some really nice rides in that video. As for In and Out, I find it appropriately named. I have 2 within 5 miles of me and never, ever go there.
Good to hear Les. I too placed small order for simple items on the 4th of November and was informed, after complaining, that they shipped on the 21st. Today makes it 30 days and still no package from Scalefinishes. Having made quite a few orders in the past and never taking more than 20 days to receive, I emailed my dissatisfaction today, I am disappointed, to put it mildly.
I'd say for me, it depends on the kit. I like to have a little contrast on chassis parts like A-arms and rear end housings so I usually paint them with Gunmetal Metalizer. I paint most chassis bottoms with semi-gloss black and add the front/rear end parts later. However, on some kits with ill fitting parts or difficult assemblies, I assemble that front end before painting the overall chassis. The Polar Lights NASCAR Talladega and Mercury Cyclone kit comes to mind, since I am building one presently. That kit has so many ill-fitting pieces it really makes sense to assemble as much as possible and then paint. I always assemble engine blocks, front covers and bell housings and paint as a unit. The intake manifolds and heads also, unless they are aluminum then I paint them metalizer aluminum color separately. I mostly use an airbrush to paint everything, although I sometimes use Tamiya rattle cans for bodies, if the color is available. I use a paint brush on very tiny details and some small parts but if I can airbrush them, I do. I don't like the brush mark look and avoid it as much as possible. The downside of pre painting and then assembling is glue does not work well with painted surfaces and getting glue on painted parts where it can be seen is annoyingly permanent.