Those wheels look great on there, especially with that great paint. I don't get the hang-up with the big wheels, traditional or not, that's not what hot rods and customs are all about. It's PERSONAL expression. As a side note, cars with 15 inch wheels ride nice and cushy, but handle like an elephant on stilts.
Looks like you have a clean one to start with!! Hopefully all your interior plastic stuff is there, as that was the most time robbing(not to mention costly) part of that build-tracking down all that interior stuff(those dashpads that aren't "knee knocked" on the corner door frame are like gold). Good luck on your 1:1-Make it look like your model and I am pretty sure we'll see you in Hot Rod magazine!
I am amazed-like everyone else here with the overall appearance, and your perfect decaling and clearcoating of the exterior. It's just ridiculous. BUT what I am really blown away by is the appearance of the jambs and the way you wrapped the CF around the inboard panels. It appears seamless, and that is what makes it spectacular. I'd tip my hat to you, sir-but I look really stupid in hats.
Great looking car, and so right on. These cars are catching on strong-consider yourself a pioneer! I did one of these a couple years ago-the guy insisted on the big-block, I was championing for an LS-6. Great job!
The frames and suspension coatings are 60% gloss black(krylon semi-flat is the perfect match). The entire underbody is red oxide primer(try to find DuPont-that's who provided the original)however, it should have body color overspray around the perimeter, including into the trans tunnel, as well as the sides of the trunkwell. how much would have varied from car to car(these were painted by human beings after all!), but in the "biz", our general rule of thumb is about ten inches inboard of the outside. on a model, this is pretty easy to replicate with an airbrush. The most inaccurate thing I have seen is guys taking the chassis, laying it flat, and then fogging too much color around the edge-if you want it to look real, hold it as if it were the bottom of the car and spray coming in from the sides(as a side note, just about every car from this era had poorly painted lower rocker panels) it should just have a dusting of color- if you want it accurate. That's why we "over-restore" them, to make up for the factory's shortcomings-of which there are many.
Looks nice. Like the old school custom effects. If you are having trouble with runs, that tends to be an air pressure issue-the fix is to crank up the air pressure and open the fan control all the way. the fluid needle should only be backed out one and a half turns, 2 full turns for very high solids clear(assuming you are using a gun made within the last 10 years).. If you are using an airbrush to apply clear-that's your number one problem. If you don't have access to a nice mini gun(sata, devilbiss) or even a fullsize gun, head over to harbor freight and pick yourself up a gravity feed touch up gun with a 1.0-1.2 tip, as well as a regulator. If you are trying to use an airbrush type compressor(with no reserve tank) you will NEVER have enough air supply/pressure to lay down a smooth clear-job. You can always lay it on and polish it, but in the paint world there is an old adage-paint it like you're not going to polish it. I'm not trying to be a know it all, but I've been a professional custom painter for over twenty years, and have been airbrushing for twenty-five years. Hope this helps!
Underhood of the monte was pretty boring-just the stock 305 painted cast blast grey, with some headers and an air cleaner with a mustache painted on it(it's nickname was the mustache ride), however here is a pic of a 502 we shoehorned into an 89' IROC, which I tried to keep somewhat of a factory muscle car vibe with.