Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

andy12646

Members
  • Posts

    42
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lambertville, MI
  • Full Name
    Bill Anderson

Recent Profile Visitors

1,754 profile views

andy12646's Achievements

MCM Regular

MCM Regular (3/6)

  1. Is this what you are looking for? Aoshima 69 Volkswagen Beetle 1303S? I bought this kit to merge with another but it didn't match the scale. The kit is complete. You can contact me at : billndeb_hlc6@yahoo.com
  2. Great looking builds! Excellent work! Planning to do the Dyno Don Mustang in the very near future. I would like to know what brand paint and color was used on the exterior.
  3. Recently picked up a model that was partially assembled but never painted and I would like to disassemble it. Two methods that I've read about on this forum is: 1- The use of Z-7 Debonder and 2- Placing the model in the freezer. I purchased Z-7 Debonder on E-Bay and was rather surprised that it is the consistency of a gel and not a thin liquid that you would expect to get into the cracks and crevices necessary to attack the glue. Could it be possible that the product I received is out dated? Not sure if there is a shelf life for this. I also question the fact that one seller offered the product for $6.00 (US) and another for $12.00. In both cases the product number and size was the same (PT-16). Next is the freezer method. I've read to dip the model in water, seal in a plastic bag prior to placing in the freezer. Also, freezing the model without water and/or a plastic bag. Either case, I would assume over night would be a sufficient amount of time. I would appreciate your thoughts and advice.
  4. Great idea! Simple. I never thought of that! My mind was stuck on the idea that a section had to be cut from the mid section.
  5. What method and tools do you guys recommend to cut a 32 Ford grill and surround? The surround seems easy enough because any joints can be filled in and sanded smooth but it seems the chrome grill could be difficult. Not only getting the seam not to show but also fit together with the modified surround. Also, keeping the cuts parallel. I've seen some chopped grills where it is difficult to see any splice where it was glued back together. I recently performed my first chop and channel job (about a 4" chop) on the Revelle 32 Ford 5-Window kit and so far so good. Thanks to plenty of reference material I found on this forum. And. again, your opinions and recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Fortunately, if I screw this up, I have the option to purchase a resin grill surround with a photo-etched grill pre-chopped.
  6. THANKS to you all for you input and recommendations in helping me further understand the many characteristics and compatibility of various paints and primers.
  7. Thank you, Ace! Your answers make sense. I figured Problem 1 was because of the different manufacturers of the primer and paint. As far as Problem 2, I never thought about the difference of products within the SAME manufacturer. Also, I was never aware that enamel primers were non-sanding as I have always sanded the primer before finish painting. I think I have just been lucky with the results though I have only completed about a dozen models. BTW I did test prim and paint plastic spoons before I preped and painted the bodies. Wouldn't you know, the spoons turned out great! All this leads me to one last question: what primer would you recommend for enamel and what primer for lacquer. Sand before finish coat or not?
  8. I can understand the problem with the Krylon Fusion over thr Rust-Oleum Primer but not the Rust-Oleum Blue over the Rust-Oleum Primer.
  9. I have two projects that I am working on concurrentley. The bodies of each have been washed thoroughly in Dawn, allowed to dry for a couple of days, sanded and washed and allowed to dry again. After a week or so, I wiped the bodies down with alcohol allowed to dry and primed with Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover Flat White Primer. I placed them in my dehydrator for 8 hours and left them set for about a week. After sanding, washing and a rub down with alcohol again I painted the bodies. First one with Krylon Fusion Pumkin Orange Gloss. Some SLIGHT wrinkles appeared when dry but were easily fixed. I painted the underside of the second body with Rust-Oleum Cobalt Blue Metallic and more wrinkles developed than with the body painted with the Krylon. Never thought I would get that kind of reaction with Rust-Oleum over Rust-Oleum. Can someone tell me what may have happened? Your thoughts and/or advise would be greatly appreciated.
  10. When building headers from solder, what bonding agent (ie: epoxy. super glue) do you prefer to use to bond the header tubes (solder) to each other? And what brand do you recommend?
  11. Thanks for your response, Guys. Just a last ditch effort to keep it from being scrapped.
  12. Due to a recent kitchen remodel I have a 36" range hood available and FREE to anyone who would like to have it for building a paint booth. It's an Allure, 2 speed fan and dual (small) spot lights with bright and dim switch and outside vent. It's in great shape. Due to it's size (36") no-one seems interested in buying it for a kitchen and I refuse to scrap it. THE CATCH: I will not ship or deliver it. You must pick it up or make some arrangement to get it. I live in the North Eastern Indiana, Southern Michigan and North Western Ohio area.
  13. Thanks, Dave. Great idea. Might give it a try.
  14. Thanks again, Guys! You just made my project a little easier.
×
×
  • Create New...