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About andy12646

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    MCM Regular

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    Angola, IN
  • Full Name
    Bill Anderson

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  1. Great idea! Simple. I never thought of that! My mind was stuck on the idea that a section had to be cut from the mid section.
  2. What method and tools do you guys recommend to cut a 32 Ford grill and surround? The surround seems easy enough because any joints can be filled in and sanded smooth but it seems the chrome grill could be difficult. Not only getting the seam not to show but also fit together with the modified surround. Also, keeping the cuts parallel. I've seen some chopped grills where it is difficult to see any splice where it was glued back together. I recently performed my first chop and channel job (about a 4" chop) on the Revelle 32 Ford 5-Window kit and so far so good. Thanks to plenty of reference material I found on this forum. And. again, your opinions and recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Fortunately, if I screw this up, I have the option to purchase a resin grill surround with a photo-etched grill pre-chopped.
  3. THANKS to you all for you input and recommendations in helping me further understand the many characteristics and compatibility of various paints and primers.
  4. Lacquer primer such as Duplicolor? Another brand?
  5. Thank you, Ace! Your answers make sense. I figured Problem 1 was because of the different manufacturers of the primer and paint. As far as Problem 2, I never thought about the difference of products within the SAME manufacturer. Also, I was never aware that enamel primers were non-sanding as I have always sanded the primer before finish painting. I think I have just been lucky with the results though I have only completed about a dozen models. BTW I did test prim and paint plastic spoons before I preped and painted the bodies. Wouldn't you know, the spoons turned out great! All this leads me to one last question: what primer would you recommend for enamel and what primer for lacquer. Sand before finish coat or not?
  6. I can understand the problem with the Krylon Fusion over thr Rust-Oleum Primer but not the Rust-Oleum Blue over the Rust-Oleum Primer.
  7. I have two projects that I am working on concurrentley. The bodies of each have been washed thoroughly in Dawn, allowed to dry for a couple of days, sanded and washed and allowed to dry again. After a week or so, I wiped the bodies down with alcohol allowed to dry and primed with Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover Flat White Primer. I placed them in my dehydrator for 8 hours and left them set for about a week. After sanding, washing and a rub down with alcohol again I painted the bodies. First one with Krylon Fusion Pumkin Orange Gloss. Some SLIGHT wrinkles appeared when dry but were easily fixed. I painted the underside of the second body with Rust-Oleum Cobalt Blue Metallic and more wrinkles developed than with the body painted with the Krylon. Never thought I would get that kind of reaction with Rust-Oleum over Rust-Oleum. Can someone tell me what may have happened? Your thoughts and/or advise would be greatly appreciated.
  8. When building headers from solder, what bonding agent (ie: epoxy. super glue) do you prefer to use to bond the header tubes (solder) to each other? And what brand do you recommend?
  9. Thanks for your response, Guys. Just a last ditch effort to keep it from being scrapped.
  10. Due to a recent kitchen remodel I have a 36" range hood available and FREE to anyone who would like to have it for building a paint booth. It's an Allure, 2 speed fan and dual (small) spot lights with bright and dim switch and outside vent. It's in great shape. Due to it's size (36") no-one seems interested in buying it for a kitchen and I refuse to scrap it. THE CATCH: I will not ship or deliver it. You must pick it up or make some arrangement to get it. I live in the North Eastern Indiana, Southern Michigan and North Western Ohio area.
  11. Thanks, Dave. Great idea. Might give it a try.
  12. Thanks again, Guys! You just made my project a little easier.
  13. I have a one-piece grill and front bumper that I would like to paint just the bumper. I need to strip the plating from the bumper (or do I?) and would like suggestions/recommendations as to the best method to do this without damaging the plating on the grill. My thought is to suspend the part, somehow, in a container of bleach so that only the bumper is in the liquid. I welcome all suggestions.
  14. Here's the reason I asked this question. I have a 72 Challenger model that I would like to build into something different than just "out of the box". I really don't care for some of the components furnished with the kit. Wheels and tires being some of them. Therefore, I was wondering what after-market tires, slicks in this case, would fit without extensive modifications . It would be helpful if the manufacturers or distributors of wheels and tires would list the actual dimensions of the part as well as the 1:1 dimensions the part represents. Thanks for the response from everyone. I truly appreciate your comments and suggestions and , again, I'm sorry for the confusion.
  15. Sorry for the confusion, Guys. I was looking for the actual size of the AMT part(s). Snake 45 got it. Thank you all!
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