Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About fractalign

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/24 and 1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Batlow Australia
  • Full Name
    robert sharp

Recent Profile Visitors

5,349 profile views
  1. That’s what I will be doing with the finished frame as it’s too damaged to repair. The other door frame will carefully be put back together utilising as much of the original as possible as there is already a styrene backing frame to attach it.
  2. As far as the door frames go, they will need a lot of reworking to end up matching each other. I was not happy with the severe rake on the b pillars so I re-did the passenger side of the body and door. At first I was happy with how the door frame was looking until I looked at the other one. I then realised I had carved too much of the shape away in the re-contouring that no amount of putty will fix. I have decided to finish the other frame and get a template from it to re-do the first one in new styrene. That will be the next task.
  3. Hey Guys. Another long overdue update. The doors are getting the inner skins. I am using styrene for the edges but for the skins themselves I am using thin clear styrene I sourced from packaging. The reason I am using this is because it’s thin enough to put the recesses into it like the original.
  4. For the centre section, I measured the one in the AMT 34 5 Window Coupe kit and scaled it up.
  5. To insure the doors have a flush fit I have added a flange around the A pillar that’s actually part of the firewall. A clean fit and finish will be important with the doors and one thing that’s often overlooked is the flange and surround. With the doors and deck lid being hinged, I will be adding in as much detail on the inside as possible. My next task is to finish off the detail around the re shaped door and roof line and transfer the updates over to the other side.
  6. This is how it looks now after some subtle carving and reshaping of the swage.
  7. After looking at images of stock three windows, I soon realised the Roof on mine was wrong. The error is in the b pillar, due to the more severe rake. While this looks fine on the standard kit, on my stock height version it kept bugging me so I decided to do something about it.
  8. The other change I have been making is in the roof itself.
  9. The deck lid was carefully cut out and like the firewall, this too will feature the stock features. One of the most challenging tasks was in creating the inner skin. This has been fashioned from a strip of clear styrene with the center section pushed up to resemble the raised section on the 1:1 that stopped oil canning. The reason I used clear styrene was so that I could place it over the outer lid and accurately mark out the holes.
  10. As happy as I am with kit, there have been a number of changes I have made, aside from un chopping the roof. The most obvious has been the addition of a stock style firewall. It will include all the standard flanges and beads.
  11. Hey Guys. I am back into the build after a five year absence. I was looking at something to spark up my interest again and thought of this one out of all my stalled projects. The larger scale definitely draws me in and the accuracy and fit of the kit makes it the best 34 kit on the market. The build outline is still unchanged, it will still be using the same wheels and rear end and it will still feature an Arden equipped side valve.
  12. Hey Guys. I am just wondering about the availability of any kits with the old style BF Goodrich TA radials. I have some from the old Hardcastle and McCormick Coyote X kit but they are a little on the small side for what I want. Were there any other kits released that featured these tyres in larger diameter and wider track ? Any help is appreciated. Cheers !
  • Create New...