Hey Guys. Sorry for the lack of updates, work has slowed a bit, I am putting the finishing touches to one of the cross members on the chassis. With the chassis itself almost done I have also turned my attention back to the cab. One area in particular that I would like to finish is the hood. Anybody who has been following since last year would know that I have scratch built this particular hood. The swage on the one in the image takes on a beak like appearance which I recreated on my own version. I am in the process of making sure both swages are asymmetrical. The second image is a diagram that shows just how different the Dearborn C.O.E is from the conventional Ford truck that its based off. I did not have this diagram when I started working on my own version so there was some guess work involved on my part. I will of course cross check my version with the diagram to insure accuracy because the next task once the hood and cab are finished will be to mould them.
My friend pointed out that the main flaw with the Falcon kit was the length of the front fenders. If you look closely you will notice the section between the leading edge of the wheel arch and the bumper is longer on the kit than the 1:1. I can't vouch for the actual quality of the kits but as far as accuracy goes that is a real issue. I don't own that many resin kits but I do have a have a Cavalier XB GT Falcon Hardtop. This particular model only cost me about $ 20.00 from memory and that was only last year. The proportions are far more accurate. I think if you are going to charge upwards of $100.00 for your product there is a certain expectation that the product will accurately represent the 1:1 its based off. I suspect the Parts Box Version was moulded from an old promo model. It was quite common back then to make the promo models longer and leaner than the 1:1 models. The problem with this is that anyone looking to cast anything using one of these as the master needs to double check the measurements !
I hear a lot of good things about The Parts Box but a friend pointed out a flaw with one of their kits. This is what the Parts Box Falcon looks like compared with the 1:1. Can you see what the flaw is in the kit ?
The good news is the build is getting closer to completion, while the chassis is taking forever, I was able to complete the differential and finish the rim on the wheels. I have been doing a build of a 35 Dearborn C.O.E that will use the chassis if you want to see what it looks like.
Hey Guys. Tonight I focussed on the differential. That included making up the shafts that attached to the centre. Here is where things stand.
Right side up !
I also decided to see who things would look with the cab sitting on top of the chassis. It looks odd at the moment due to the fact that I have not made up the tandem rear end. Of course I will need to mould this differential to do that along with the rest of the wheels once I have finished the wheel. Before I do that I will need to add the cross member studs to the chassis. The front ones were added a while back so the front is effectively complete. That will be the next task and once I Have done that the chassis will be finished at last !
The bottom three holes are ok but the top two need some work. It will take a while to get it right but this is the closest I have ever come to scratch building a wheel that I am truly happy with. I have done several previous to this one but none have come close to this one for the correct shape. I actually own an original 1:1 pair of these wheels so I will reference this one against the original until I am happy with it.
To make the tapered drive shaft I used synthetic baking clay known as Fimo. I stretched and rolled a piece to the same shape as the one in the image. After taking it out of the oven I sanded out the the imperfections by hand. No lathe means this is slow work. But I have glued the length to the diff centre and its a lot shorter than how it looked before the modification. The wishbones are from the Revell 37 Pickup kit. When I baked up the drive shafts I also baked up a length for the shafts that sit either side of the diff centre. The will be added later.
I also managed to finish constructing the outer rim of the wheel. I used five lengths of 1mm by . 0.3 mm strip. To avoid damage to the centre disc. I used strips of double sided tape to fasten the first band to the wheel. There are three bands in total. The inner and outer bands consist of two strips one on top of the other. The centre band is just a single strip. On the 1:1 wheel there is a concave channel between the two bands this single strip represents that. The next task will be to finish off the diff and clean up the holes in the wheel.
Hey Guys. It has been a while since I put anything up of the build, not because I have I have stopped working on it more for the fact that has taken so long to get any thing done. I have worked solidly to get the chassis finished. This has been tedious to say the least. Getting the inside of the rails to the same wall thickness and getting the cross members right has taken me weeks to work out. I finally put the chassis together last night and layed primer on it today. In order to make sure all the cross members were sitting evenly I blew this image up to 285 percent which is the same size as the actual chassis. This is a kind of digital jig so to speak. The second last cross member is actually sitting over the one in the image. With the chassis only needing the studs to finish I have turned my attention to the differential. You can see the actual diff is much longer than the one in the diagram. Also the enclosed driveshaft on the one in the image tapers in towards the transmission.
The 34 Chevrolets will actually be a separate range altogether, however Imay add some to this range depending on the interest level. The good news is that they will include stock fenders and they will also be available in stock and chopped versions. The line up so far will be a 3 Window Coupe, Roadster, Tourer, Roadster Utility, Coupe Utility and possibly a stock height Tudor depending on interest.
These are some time away though, at the moment as I am just trying to get the first of the Sixties Style Hot Rods completed. If you want to see any of the work on the 34 Chevrolets though send me a pm.
Just for the record though "Replicas and Minitures" already do a 32 Cabriolet and possibly a 32 Sports Coupe. I think the idea of a four door sedan is a great idea. As far as I know the ones that are available are based on the old MPC or AMT designs. A four door sedan based on the Revell tudor body would certainly generate interest, another thing you could look into is a tourer as well. The AMT and MPC version are terrible.
I thought it was time for a quick update on the build, it has been painstakingly slow. At the moment I am working on getting the wall thickness of the rails to be uniform. The idea will be to be able to swap the cross members over from their respective positions and have them be interchangeable between each other. This will only apply to the last three cross members where the rails are straight and square.
The front half of the chassis bows out to so its not possible to do the same here, also the wall depth decreases as it gets closer to the frame horns. Even so I will be working to get the wall thickness uniform here as well so that the respective cross members can reversed and slot back in equally. Its vital that I get this correct before I finally add the cross members.
One thing that I changed was the width of the chassis, its now at least a couple of millimetres more narrow which will make it easier to fit the rear end in. It will take time to get the balance right but the upside is that the chassis will be far better than originally planned.
The biggest change though has been in the second last cross member that lines up with the front of the leaf springs. This is the most complex of all the cross members. Along the bottom, the edge is arched and flanged, along the top there is a recess at either end where the triangular brackets join it to the top of the chassis rails. While these features were obvious in the sourced images there was something that was not as noticeable.
Looking down from above the walls actually bow out. I needed to make this change and so I sliced along the length of the cross member and added material to the centre. The diagram below shows the cross member and its shape. Next task will be to get the wall thickness finished and then add the cross members.