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About mecklm

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    Mike Meckl

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  1. Moebius Comet... Wild Bubbletop Show Rod

    Will you be adding upper arms to the rear axle? You'll either have to do that or create a second attachment to the rear axle for each of your lower arms. I'd hate to see that axle twist out from under the car, especially with twin motor, quad blower torque available. Mike
  2. The Supersonic has landed.

    Here's a couple more pics from Google. Looks like this would give us a rough idea of what you're shooting for, color wise. Have you figured out a direction for the wheels/tires? Looks like most of them have the polished solid wheels, which might add some interest if you could figure out how to get wide whitewalls on the tires - that would add to your '50's era show car vibe. But that one with the wire wheels really caught my eye - they really give it a sports car look. I'd guess that wouldn't fit the show car influence you're looking for. Gotta say - this is a very striking car and you have really captured the essence of its lines and proportions. Very very well done, sir. Mike
  3. The Supersonic has landed.

    The equivalent material from Shapeways is called "high definition acrylate", being a light cured liquid. The examples on their website show a support structure very similar to your parts. Since the application of the supports is fully automated, there's probably little that can be done to keep them away from delicate, "real" details so your printer's suggestion to split the engine into two halves is most likely the safest way to go. If you don't mind me asking, what was your cost for that body (I certainly understand if you prefer not to divulge this info)? This is the most expensive plastic material Shapeways offers which is why I stick with their direct jetted acrylic - the downside being a rougher surface. By the way, what scale are you working with for this build? Mike
  4. Peterbilt fire truck DD powered

    Hey, thanks for the info! Anytime I've tried that I couldn't get rid of the "fuzz" that was so obvious in photos but yours looks really clean and smooth. Did you treat it in any way or add any paint to it? Mike
  5. The Supersonic has landed.

    That really is one of the smoothest bodies I've seen printed. Do you recall what the material is (i.e. acrylic) and what the printing process is (i.e. liquid plastic hardened with laser or powder sintered with laser)? I can't wait to see the motor! I'm assuming that's also printed (?). I'd love to hear one of those in person - 2 liter, 70 degree V8 with max power at 6000rpm! Are you replicating a specific car or are you going with a personal choice as far as colors, wheels and stance are concerned? Really looking forward to seeing more of this build! Mike
  6. Ha ha ha, I read the whole post before looking at the author's name and I had assumed this was one of your builds. Then I see your post about watching and I get all confused, lol. To the REAL author, this looks like a very cool project. The wire wheel spokes appear pretty thin, making them particularly suited to the car. Please carry on and keep us updated. Mike
  7. The Supersonic has landed.

    Beautiful body and the layering really appears minor. What are your plans for the chassis, interior, engine - basically what are your plans for the rest of the car? Just a couple of images from Google... I still chuckle every time I see a Fiat "8V". As the story goes, Fiat thought Ford had trademarked "V8" so they used "8V" in order to avoid a legal battle. Mike
  8. My vote, lol! These all happen to be the US version with the early "all caps" base where the word VOLKSWAGEN is fully capitalized, versus later versions where only the "V" is capitalized. Mike
  9. Peterbilt fire truck DD powered

    Very nice build. If I may ask, what material did you use to represent the rope holding the canvas in place? The color and diameter look spot on. Mike
  10. Loadstar Brush Truck

    Charles, I really enjoy watching your builds come together. It takes some real visualization skills to be able to envision those finished hinges and then figure out how to break them down to the least common denominator. Very nicely done, as usual. Mike
  11. Thanks for all of your replies! I'm especially fond of the extra credit tips like "super clean" and heating the solution. I'm assuming the heating only applies to short term soaks as opposed to weeks long durations. Follow up question; I do have a small, heated ultrasonic cleaner with a 30 minute timer. Has anyone used the cleaners in combination with ultrasonic? Any pitfalls to be wary of? Thanks again for all the thorough replies! Mike
  12. For you folks that remove paint in the purple pond, does the paint merely lose its adhesion to the base surface and come off in sheets and pieces or does it actually dissolve/disintegrate or does it depend on what type of paint was used? Thanks in advance for your info! Mike
  13. Hey Charles, thanks for posting the photo of your friend's rendition of this truck. I couldn't help but join these two photos together for a comparison shot, given the general size, position, perspective and even the angle that the front wheels are steered to are remarkably similar between the two. The cool thing is the top one is roughly 11-1/2" long while the bottom one is just under 1-3/4" long. Mike
  14. I only have these photos of the final assembly stage, basically everything attached to the main frame except the cab. I use super glue at all the joints to hold the truck together. My preference is to dry fit each part and then apply super glue to the joint to finish it off. I'm sure lots of folks here use the same applicator that I do - a small sewing needle that has exactly half of the eye cut or ground away. This leaves a miniature two pronged fork that holds a very precise and repeatable amount of super glue. I stick the pointy end of the needle into a small scrap of wood to serve as a handle. And here are a few final shots, at least until I get my photo booth set up again for "under glass" pictures. Mike
  15. The plans I worked from indicated three separate shift levers. I wasn't able to discern if one of them was actually a parking brake so I just made all three the same. I used 0.006" brass rod with a tiny ball of white glue on ends to simulate the knobs. Here they are stuck in a bit of silly putty to facilitate painting. I just used plain silver for the rods and dark gray for the knobs. There are three holes formed in the cab floor that measure roughly 0.010" in diameter. Next, and last, is the final assembly of all the parts. I should also mention that I didn't acknowledge the baking soda blasting in my post above. The blasting comes after the 24hr soak and prior to the application of the gray primer. Mike