Another remarkable replica you've created and I'm sure many modelers will be thrilled to be able to purchase one. Now that the basic truck "bones" are complete, can you share what you have in mind for your first build of it? My apologies if you've already covered this...
What's truly remarkable is that I keep zooming in further and further and there is absolutely zero loss of fidelity. Normally you don't have to zoom in far at all before you see ragged edges, file/tool marks, etc. I find it almost impossible to believe that this is 1/25 as there are plenty of large scale models that can't stand up to that kind of scrutiny. Well done sir, well done! There's a handful of models/modelers that are truly inspirational and you are without a doubt one of those rare, blessed souls. Keep up the excellent modeling as there's a bunch of us out here that are becoming addicted to your updates!
Many thanks for the detailed explanation. In a nutshell, your technique is pretty much how I envisioned doing it. When I loft nowadays I almost always use guide lines in order to control the final solid. More often than not, if I don't use them the results are usually not what I'm expecting. I was really hoping you wouldn't go to all the trouble of crafting a tutorial, as I hate to be responsible for holding up your modeling time, but I appreciate your explanation. Take care.
You have me intrigued with the sculpting of this injector hat. I don't get to do this much with the kind of parts I design so when I encounter it, I merely loft between two sketches and then shell the result. Without bogging you down with a tutorial, can you describe in some basic words how you achieved that shape? Fascinating stuff!
Very nice build. I really enjoy the attention to detail that you're applying to this car. By the way, there's a contradiction between the metric and imperial dimensions you mention for the engine setback. 3mm is close to 1/8" and 6mm is close to 1/4".
Mark, beautiful parts. I'm really curious about the acid treatment for the aluminum parts. Is it something really weak like vinegar or is there a specific, stronger acid that transforms the colors and surface texture? Any safety concerns with fumes, aside from the common sense skin/eye protection? Thanks for any feedback you can offer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v411/mecklm/64_Ford-Falcon-num17_DV-14-MH-02.jpg.cf_zpsysgygibb.jpg This is about the only rear view I could find but it shows the stock tank and filler nicely. I'm going to have to stay with my original comment that the earlier photo shows a fuel cell. Minor technicality, overall, since your cars always turn out looking like the real deal. Either way will look awesome.
Wow, that looks very nicely put together! Glad to hear you're keeping the original body paint as it really suits the car and era. Regarding the black ink in the panel lines, could you perhaps mix up a lighter shade of black (if that makes any sense at all) and flow really thinned amounts into each panel line? Repeat as many times as needed to lighten the original effect. I suppose you could go the opposite direction and flow in the same Ivory paint as the body. Since it would need to be thinned down so much each application would gradually lighten the panel lines. Hope you take lots of pics as you make progress on this restoration as it's already so good it will be fun to watch it get even better.
Not sure how accurate you're trying to be but I'm pretty sure the stripes at the rear should end at the bottom edge of the rear face of the spoiler and should not extend onto the thin exposure of the deck lid. Either way, paint color is beautiful!
Wow, I frequent this section regularly but somehow missed this one completely. Love the work you've done and I especially get a kick when standard kits are manipulated for the better with custom parts, be it scratch built by hand or by 3d printer. Nice work on the seats and wheels. What material did you machine the wheels from? Also, did you machine one and mold/cast the rest? Thanks for sharing! Mike