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ScottH454

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About ScottH454

  • Rank
    MCM Regular
  • Birthday 11/21/1972

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  • Website URL
    http://www.action-modeler.com/
  • Facebook
    Action-Modeler.com

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1:24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pasco,Wa
  • Full Name
    Scott Harrison

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  1. '64 Plymouth Al Eckstrands "Lawman"

    Hey Snake45, that's what I did an think it stayed pretty dry. Still fighting getting anything to spray wet out of an airbrush. Well, this was just a coat to seal the paint an give a base for the decals. Tonight I got decals on one side.
  2. The project post starts off with the car already prepped an airbrushed with a white base. The script emblems were removed from the side fenders as per reference photos. The hood center molding was shaved down to represent as if it was left off. The body has been in the masking stage for months. Countless Google searches looking for other photos or tips on such a complicated masking yielded nothing. With the very few 1:1 scale images I did find I was able to finally get it to the point of painting the second color. Now I have read the actual two-tone color was some red candy color but I was not gonna risk a thick edge for this detail so I went with Turbine Bronze. There was very little color bleed, some around the back window near the molding that I hope to sand off avoiding brush touch up. My next step from here is an intercoat clear from Inspire Airbrush Paint. This is a solvent based clear as was the paint so I need to build up some courage to spray.
  3. He has three posts asking actually. He stated he wasn't interested in who was suggested in the other thread, likely Fireball. 3D printed parts leave a textured finish that some modelers don't want so maybe he is one.
  4. Not yet but they are on my to do list. If people are gonna be that interested I can make the mold over next few days. I have the rims already mounted to a base so if all goes well I could be casting by end of the week. I bought the kit specifically to cast those wheels.
  5. Hood scoop

    I bought that 7 Eleven kit just for that scoop with the intensions of resin casting it. Have it in clay along with the seat from the kit. Might be longer than you want to wait for it from me though.
  6. What pinning I have done I used a piece of copper wire. Sanded the wire to give the glue something to bite into. Drilled into one side of the part with a bit close to what the wire is an glue the wire in. Then trimmed it off with enough to go into the second part. I still wing it an eyeball where to drill seeing what I pin is pretty small parts. But to help locate the second hole you could press the wire against the other side or dab a drop of paing on the wire or use the wire to scrape painted area on the second part.
  7. Casting black rubber like tires

    I gave it a shot an made some tires. The hardest part for me was understanding how to set up the mold. I get them to cast fine it is finding away to let the air bubbles vent. Here is a video of me opening a tire mold. https://youtu.be/e2ZSsUOfWu0 I am using Task 14 from Smooth-On an seems like a great choice. Does cure to a hard urethane rubber pretty much like kit tire. https://shop.smooth-on.com/task-14
  8. Spark plug wire in bulk

    I have found a nice stash of wire myself trying to get more for the money in bulk. These places selling it for $5 for 3ft got it this way an just repackage it, the catch is finding out where it comes from. I have bought more wire from a place called tcsdcc.com where you can also get micro heat shrink to use for plug boot material. I took some pictures against an engine on my bench in hopes to help reference the sizes. The goal wire gauge for standard plug wire, in my opinion, would be 34awg. The place I linked didn't have but look to the train hobby for other suppliers with insulated 34awg wire. I am not a fan of this Kynar wire people keep recommending, I believe I have some an took a picture of it. The wire is very rigid an the insulation is shiny, not at all realistic in my opinion.
  9. Paint color question.

    Take a look at scalefinishes.com for factory paint colors. You can figure out which color you need by the year. As long as you have an airbrush it is your best bet. One thing I am learning as this paint is pretty thinned out and take many coats you would want to spray a like color for a ground coat first.
  10. Paint Chipping when Foiling

    Ok now that I am home I can see the photos bigger an that looks like silver in the chips, so you would want to try a regular primer.
  11. Paint Chipping when Foiling

    I didn't want to go there but since Steven did then I'll second that using metallizer. I imagine that paint as a metallic powder an barely able to hold onto itself let alone a topcoat. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby then a can with thier 40% off coupon is worth the investment over what you save using the metalizer.
  12. Paint Chipping when Foiling

    Is the chipping all the way back to plastic? If so an you are washing the body then have you scuffed the body? I have been using a sanding cloth called super assilex to prep my bodys before priming with Tamiya rattle can primers. I have a link to the jobpack for the sanding kit, great stuff as ot is a soft cloth vs a rigid paper. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XD8MWFC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_HgmNAbGA6BRJG
  13. Revell 69 Yenko Nova Decals

    Hey guys, well I have done ruined the passenger side black inset 427 marker decal on my latest body. I already just bought a Yenko Nova kit for the stripe so I'd hate to buy another one just for this emblem. They have the other 427 decals for use without the bezel so that can work for my next one when I can shave half the bezel off. I hate to break up someone else's kit but does anyone have any decal remnants either black hood strip or the 427 side marker with the black background from the Revell 69 Yenko Nova? I have a detail wire set I can offer in trade. Thanks
  14. I use the microscales mask that is water release. The thing I noticed when you paint over it then it seals it. So still had to scrape it open for water to get in there. Maybe if there was a rubber type that can rub off. I use it for glue points an to avoid over painting into details. To just glue your parts to the painted surface leaves you to the mercy of how well the paint is sticks. An I have seen it fail enough to not recommed that, especially if you still need to handle the parts.
  15. Loosing Detail

    I knew what you were doing there as I have one I have to do the same with. Grey primer is easier to see imperfections but expensive to cover up. Hence the 20 coats of ScaleFinishes paint at $12 to cover the grey I sprayed over on that Nova.