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ScottH454

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About ScottH454

  • Rank
    MCM Regular
  • Birthday 11/21/1972

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  • Website URL
    http://www.action-modeler.com/
  • Facebook
    Action-Modeler.com

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1:24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pasco,Wa
  • Full Name
    Scott Harrison

Recent Profile Visitors

1,918 profile views
  1. Casting black rubber like tires

    I gave it a shot an made some tires. The hardest part for me was understanding how to set up the mold. I get them to cast fine it is finding away to let the air bubbles vent. Here is a video of me opening a tire mold. https://youtu.be/e2ZSsUOfWu0 I am using Task 14 from Smooth-On an seems like a great choice. Does cure to a hard urethane rubber pretty much like kit tire. https://shop.smooth-on.com/task-14
  2. Spark plug wire in bulk

    I have found a nice stash of wire myself trying to get more for the money in bulk. These places selling it for $5 for 3ft got it this way an just repackage it, the catch is finding out where it comes from. I have bought more wire from a place called tcsdcc.com where you can also get micro heat shrink to use for plug boot material. I took some pictures against an engine on my bench in hopes to help reference the sizes. The goal wire gauge for standard plug wire, in my opinion, would be 34awg. The place I linked didn't have but look to the train hobby for other suppliers with insulated 34awg wire. I am not a fan of this Kynar wire people keep recommending, I believe I have some an took a picture of it. The wire is very rigid an the insulation is shiny, not at all realistic in my opinion.
  3. Paint color question.

    Take a look at scalefinishes.com for factory paint colors. You can figure out which color you need by the year. As long as you have an airbrush it is your best bet. One thing I am learning as this paint is pretty thinned out and take many coats you would want to spray a like color for a ground coat first.
  4. Paint Chipping when Foiling

    Ok now that I am home I can see the photos bigger an that looks like silver in the chips, so you would want to try a regular primer.
  5. Paint Chipping when Foiling

    I didn't want to go there but since Steven did then I'll second that using metallizer. I imagine that paint as a metallic powder an barely able to hold onto itself let alone a topcoat. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby then a can with thier 40% off coupon is worth the investment over what you save using the metalizer.
  6. Paint Chipping when Foiling

    Is the chipping all the way back to plastic? If so an you are washing the body then have you scuffed the body? I have been using a sanding cloth called super assilex to prep my bodys before priming with Tamiya rattle can primers. I have a link to the jobpack for the sanding kit, great stuff as ot is a soft cloth vs a rigid paper. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XD8MWFC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_HgmNAbGA6BRJG
  7. Revell 69 Yenko Nova Decals

    Hey guys, well I have done ruined the passenger side black inset 427 marker decal on my latest body. I already just bought a Yenko Nova kit for the stripe so I'd hate to buy another one just for this emblem. They have the other 427 decals for use without the bezel so that can work for my next one when I can shave half the bezel off. I hate to break up someone else's kit but does anyone have any decal remnants either black hood strip or the 427 side marker with the black background from the Revell 69 Yenko Nova? I have a detail wire set I can offer in trade. Thanks
  8. I use the microscales mask that is water release. The thing I noticed when you paint over it then it seals it. So still had to scrape it open for water to get in there. Maybe if there was a rubber type that can rub off. I use it for glue points an to avoid over painting into details. To just glue your parts to the painted surface leaves you to the mercy of how well the paint is sticks. An I have seen it fail enough to not recommed that, especially if you still need to handle the parts.
  9. Loosing Detail

    I knew what you were doing there as I have one I have to do the same with. Grey primer is easier to see imperfections but expensive to cover up. Hence the 20 coats of ScaleFinishes paint at $12 to cover the grey I sprayed over on that Nova.
  10. Loosing Detail

    You probably lost it when you used that primer. I used a general rattle can primer and yeah there meant to give a high build coating. If you do have an airbrush you should spray your primer with that. My advice to avoid using two colors of primer would be to tint the white with some of your red paint, assuming you have compatible paints. One coat to sand an fix any issues then go back over with enough to cover your sand through. Edited to add pictures of a Nova body I just sprayed. At least to coats of Tamiya spray can primer sanded smooth, enough to cover the plastic is all that was needed. Then based with many coats of a cheaper orange automotive paint from an airbrush. Nearly the whole 2oz bottle of paint from scalefinishes. Then with any lint an dirt cleaned up I sprayed with maybe five coats of Hugger Orange. While I may have put 20+ coats of paint on this body the airbrush coats where always a very light coat. I never tried to put on a "heavier" coat cause guess what, heavy paint flows into that detail. So from this step forward I'll be using automotive two part clear tinted with this orange paint to airbrush on a coat of clear to "seal" this base coat from damage during decals. Then use straight clear to cover all that up. This is where I can get in trouble with to much clear an my paint job looks like your Firebird.
  11. Glue for thread ?

    Ok, so you are trying to avoid painting after it is on the seats? A black marker would give a thinner coat that should let you bend it, but the glue you use might not like it. You could still mask off the piping afterward then paint it black with a marker. From the photos you shared you won't be happy with thread, it won't be smooth enough even after soaking in glue. At the least try the glue on some threads to see how it dries on some scrap plastic will you wait for some .015 plastic rod. The seats I am doing are all the same color so I was just painting them complete with a thin coat of paint. Inserting some photos of the latest seat. The outside was .015 rod an the inside seams is 0.10. I used Tamiya extra thin to glue it down in sections, it softens the rod to help it bend. It did break a couple times an that meant pulling it off to avoid a noticeable seam.
  12. Yes, as far as I know, I'd be the only one selling MPC Camaro seats. Certainly ones with the extra details. If you look at http://action-modeler.com it lists what I have.
  13. Did you try ordering off MCG website? I was looking myself an seen they still have them on thier store. I ran my cart upto $35 for 3 things an wasn't ready to commit. I hope so cuase the detail master ones are not what I wanted.
  14. Oh yeah well I started with MPC seats an detailed from there so they are gonna be better. I have a set on ebay now actually so search "resin camaro seats". My most recent feedback on my profile was from a guy that just bought a set if you want to know what others think.
  15. Glue for thread ?

    What is your tuck n roll made out of? I have redone three seats now with .015 plastic rod onto plastic seats. Might be easier to manage than thread.