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Everything posted by ScottH454

  1. This is what I have, mostly long shaft. I have some I cast in aluminum coating an if you want short that's all I have right now.
  2. I can't tell what the rear rim has for center cap but these match the front with it's center cap. https://action-modeler.com/product/ansen-sprint-w-beadlock/
  3. There is a post in the car aftermarket forum that tells you where to get the centerline wheels from futureattraction. I have the draglites in resin so they would need painted. Also have some beadlock wheel backs for the rear.
  4. Yeah he was mia there for awhile. He had just moved to a new house so he is probably dealing with new issues. I can relate with my life experiences, I am going through a divorce so I pulled my ebay listings an haven't got back to some people. What is it your looking for cause I am still selling from my website.
  5. He just relisted items on his eBay store, so he might have what your after there.
  6. I show 2 in stock through my website. https://action-modeler.com/product/kn-x-stream-air-cleaner
  7. I have some I can offer as a kit. I made the ones pictured for a build using cut down coil-overs from a Revell '29 Roadster kit. After I ran one of the ends over with my office chairs an squished it I made a mold so I can cast the ends in resin. The shaft is the smallest tube polystyrene with it's rod that fits inside. The spring is just blue painted wire that I wrapped around a plastic rod then filed the end flat.
  8. That question in my opinion comes from casters taking weeks, months or apparently over a year to get parts to people. If you want a part an it isn't in stock your build might get put on hold waiting where else you could go find another source with the part in stock. Because of this I only sell what I have in stock, certainly never take money on a preorder. Whatever this guy has done in the past he is proving himself with his ebay sales an feedback. The quality might not be what it could be but he has the parts others don't. Dale, after you poor a batch an get it in the pot have your pin hole parts on the bench. Take a toothpick, dip it in the uncured resin left in your mixing cup to dap it into the pinhole. Once cured sand it smooth an you might be able to save some of that otherwise rejected parts.
  9. They guy posted about another method for carpet, let him share what he has. I keep watching threads turn to BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH because people think they need to do things their way iinstead. I have some sheets saved where I was gonna use as under hood insulation an now I can see what the look would be. If you don't like this as a carpet then keep it to yourself, none of it looks like real carpet. I used tissue paper when I was starting out, think it would have worked if I didn't glue it down with tube glue.
  10. I make two different styles of base plates. Mine are attached to the element otherwise yeah would only need an outer ring to fake the look. I don't advertise on this forum but action-modeler has stuff other casters don't.
  11. I am in the process of mastering a new drag tire an at the point of setting the width. I am working towards them being for a Motown Missile Cuda build so what they used back then is what I am after. So far I was making it a 10" tread but the 1:1 images look like they could be wider. Anyone know a good size or did they have a few used. Thanks
  12. I have that air cleaner in resin too, didn't know what kit it came from. I have a couple cast in black. I have that kit and planned to make a mold for that air conditioner.
  13. The length of the block alone is 20mm and with transmission 50mm. It will have a front cover an pulleys for another 6mm.
  14. This is a photo of what I have of the 2014 Mustang GT "Orange". The transmission bottom was used on the engine master along with the top cover being in that pile. The engine block and oil pan have a hole through them like the old metal axle kits. The heads an starter are also molded into the block. The valve covers have the oil fill cap molded on. The front cover was a close choice on which was better but the 2013 version had a few very slight details that this one didn't. This might work for some but buying this kit for the engine was a huge disappointment, especially from Revell. Now this photo is a collection of parts I've been working on to cast as a resin "Coyote" engine kit. The basic engine was all from the 2013 Boss 302 Mustang, minus the bottom of the transmission. Clean details and the separately made parts is what makes this the best choice to build a modern "coyote" engine. What I had been working on before this master stalled was modifying the super charger to fit this engine. Was getting stuck making a pulley bracket, they don't scale these parts to be that accurate. Seeing the interest still in this engine I've got it back on the workbench though. P.S. I normally don't cast engines and transmissions together but this had both really nice pieces so what I'll end up doing is casting the one piece then cutting the two apart as resin to make a new separate molds for each.
  15. porschercr, here is the photo of what I did to the bottom of the 2014 cover to fit on the 2013s runner. I put new tabs on the runner but think it already had something like that. Also show the 2013 engine with small indents for engine mounting.
  16. I was working on making the engine in resin before. Seeing this post I put it back on the bench. The 2013 kit has the best engine/transmission. More seperate and details than any of the other year kits. But as you can see the 2014 has the top cover you need an that would be about all it is good for. Other engines are not gonna work well as transplant engines. They have large voids in the block for mounts and the 2014 I believe is molded with the heads on the block. Still not sure how quick I'd be with a whole engine but can make the 2014 top cover for you.
  17. Okay those are honestly pretty rough. If casters are still casting with open back one part molds then I feel sorry for those buying them thinking there the standard. Advise: Use two part molds, degas your silicone anyway, brush your first bit of silicone into the part, don't sell your rejects as standard parts. Pic is of how I send out parts.
  18. I can help with it all if your interested, engine, intake, valve covers, and even transmission. The tubes I have are the extra long but that shouldn't be hard to trim down. I can even make the parts in aluminum coating.
  19. In kit form there is the newest 70 aar cuda kit that has your best option. I was going to cast the Duster 340 but this latest engine from Revell is much better. If what you saw was before this kit was released then it won't be as good of a choice. https://www.revell.com/products/cars/muscle-1964-to-1974/70-plymouth-aar-cuda.html
  20. I see I'm a day late on this but Action-Modeler also has a few transmissions for that block. I have a Tremec TKO for manual, GM TH400, and GM 4L60E. The TKO has a really nice profile that would be great for small tunnel openings.
  21. Okay I found the link to the page with a recent account of his current work. The original poster wrote how he was happy so I asked him what he compares that resin too cause there is better from what I could see. My post was removed an the reliable resins guy made a few posts to defend himself including photos of the eBay listing with clean strait parts. His feedback is probably good because buyers think this is normal in resin casting. https://www.facebook.com/groups/867554226672373/permalink/2917416555019453/
  22. Is something like this a risk regarding copyright? I have seen people attack others for posting images of magazine articles. I have some of these catalogs that I could scan.
  23. This has been what I've been using. Keep trying to go with a cheaper paint but most are now designed to be heavier extra coverages. You'll be paying for it but has always looked and worked the best.https://www.semproducts.com/product/color-coattm-aerosols/15013
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