Most MPC MoPar B body kits shared an almost identical chassis pan. The original 65 Coronet (molded by MPC but sold by AMT) has a pan almost the same as the 67-70 Charger annuals and even the Dukes of Hazard and 70 Coronet. I don't have too many B boy variations, but I know that these are almost the same. The AMT 65 Coronet has full rear wheel wells and the front sub-frame has the wrong shape, but everything else seems the same. I don't know when MPC took off the wheel wells or corrected the front, but I don't think it took too long.
There was a very long and very informative seminar at GSL this year. one of the SLC club members even did a demonstration. A presenter that does a 3D printing blog said that a printer will soon be on the market for $275 and the club member mentioned that it is a good idea to have a computer specifically dedicated to the 3D printer
There was a lot of discussion on software, too. It is supposed to be put on the website so look for it and get comfortable before you start.
What I learned is that I will NOT be doing 3D printing. It would take me forever to learn the software.
Another presenter had a different approach: he did three view drawings on paper, hired somebody to convert them to 3D files, then had a printing surface make the part. he then made RTV molds and resin cast the parts. For me this sounds like the way to go. This guy also did a seminar on resin casting that also should be on the GSL site. I HIGHLY recommend thae anyone interested in 3D printing view one or both of these seminars.
The new tools will be new 1:1 builds of a 2015 Mustang and a 29 roadster, while the others will be modifications to existing tools just like the rest of the Foose line is. I'm not going to get too excited.
Chris and Ace-it was a real pleasure meeting you guys, and just an amazing weekend, You guys and everyone else there are good modelers and even better people.
For those of you out there who have not gone to GSL or any other big NNL or contest ,the models draw you there but is the PEOPLE that make he show. Getting to know the other model builders is the real treasure, the advice and any trophies won are just gravy.
When MSG's custom modeling book was new, he had the book and his 40 Ford from the cover on a table as he was talking to a small group of modelers. I congratulated him on the book and then said that many people had made VW bugs look like 40 Fords, but that he was the first to make a 40 Ford look like a VW bug. Mark gave me a big smile and said "Nemanic, you're a pain in the a**" I took it as a compliment, and he STILL is my friend! What a guy!
I'm starting to build this, so I thought I might address some of the questions about fit. As a disclaimer, these maybe peculiar to my kit. I also dechromed a number of parts such as the front suspension and shocks.
Of course, there are mold lines and ejector pin marks to deal with. I found that is VERY important to remove these and to test fit a LOT. some of the ejector pins are raised from the surface of a part and cause alignment problems.
The most puzzling problem is that a lot of the locating pins are too long (or the holes are too shallow). It is probably easier to drill out the holes. If you don't fix these on the engine it will probably be a misaligned mess. I had to drill almost every mounting hole on the engine, and sand own the semicircular piston barrel mounts. Incidentally, the engine has nothing in common with the Corvair units in the following kits that I have: 69 Corvair; Astro I, or Meyers Tow'd. The AMT guys really liked redesigning Corvair engines!
There is no precise mounting method for the upper part of the chassis pan. I puzzled over this for a few days. What I finally came up with is to sandwich the floor pan, upper floor pan, and upper body together. The upper pan still could move around a bit, but it helped me position it some. I still have the upper pan a bit crooked, but I think it is about .020 inch tone side. It probably would have been much further off if I hadn't sandwiched it. If anyone has a better way, let us know. I did check that the engine will install correctly with the pan parts clued together, but do not glue in the brace above the transmission.
I'm currently working on the roof and doors. I found that the lower edge of both doors need to have their corners reshaped slightly to match the openings in the body- this took about 30 seconds for each corner. There was a lot wrong with the drivers side of the roof. First, the front corner of it curves downward, which creates a much larger gap than the passenger side has (that side fit perfectly), and it does not meet the corner if the door opening by about .030 inch. I had to sand down the front edge of the roof from just behind the front mounting pin to the front edge of the roof. I think s piece of sheet plastic needs to be put on the front of the roof to reach the door opening, but I have not done this yet. I am expecting to need to shim the door openings once the roof is mounted. I also found that the windshield will mount with the roof glued on. Yes, I am planning to paint the model after the roof is on.
There are a few sink marks on the body top and pan which will nee to be addressed.
For those of you who, like me, want to do the race car or a "standard" Piranha, make sure you read the website I referenced earlier and look at all of the sections. The rear if the body is not the only difference! You also will need an engine swap.
I'm not knocking the model. It was one my holiest grails, and is pretty well engineered for its day. This build is meant to be a test run of sorts as I m planning to do more. Most of then above faults only take a few minutes to fix and are minor compared to most kits with opening doors and 60s engineering (e.g. the Henry J). Good luck with your kit and I hope that this helped.
I met de Lespinay sveral years ago at the Monterey Historics, where he was racing a Renault Alpine. I asked for his autograph, and he was quite surprised that I remembered his work for Heller. We spent a few minutes talking about an article he did in Model Car Science and his days designing kits. A very nice man