The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
I believe that the fittings for the water hoses for the heater were located on the Water Pump on the passenger side and the rear of the Intake Manifold. The rear hose would mount to a small upright fitting and the "hose" portion would be easily routed away from the Distributer. I would run the front hose too the passenger side inner fender and then back to the firewall. Of course this all depends on the year model of the engine. The very early Cadillac and some other GM products like the Pontiacs had their heater cores mounted on the drivers side. I don't know what year model the engine in the kit represents but it sounds as if it may be say a early '50's engine. Since it is a custom I would use the later model configuration for convenience if nothing else.
Your build looks dead on. Turned out great. I have used a couple of Resin bodies and experienced the same paint issues you described. There are many here with far more experience and I'm sure they could offer many tips on painting Resin parts. What has worked for me is after the normal clean up is to use automotive type self etching primer so the final coats of paint have something to hang on to. Another thing to think about is if you are doing any sanding at all this should be done away from the other parts and then cleaned and primed before you start working with the plastic portion . It is possible to contaminate the plastic if you have any of the sanding dust on your hands from the Resin.
Your stained real wood looks great. More realistic than decals or trying to paint wood. Are you going to raise the rear bed wood section to be level with the forward floor section or just have it stepped ?? I like the center blue spoon, but it depends on how you are envisioning the car. The 389 - 400 -421 - 455 engines all look alike. The differences are internal with different bores and strokes.
The engine from the '56 AMT kit will be fine. Ford offered the 239 cu in Overhead Valve engine first in 1954. In 1955 Ford changed the bore and stroke around to offer a 272 cu in and a 292 cu in engine based on the original 239 engine. For 1956 they had the same offerings and late in the model year they offered a 312 cu in version. All three displacements were offered in 1957 and in 1958 with the new FE engines starting at 331 cu in they dropped the earlier Y Block engines except for the 292 cu in that was kept as the base V-8. From the outside the Ford Y Blocks all looked alike. A 6 volt battery can be found in many of the Revell offerings of '30's and 40's Fords.