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espo

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About espo

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    24th & 25th

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  • Location
    edge of the prairie kansas
  • Full Name
    david espenshade

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  1. espo

    '40 Ford Bobber

    Great looking build. Besides the detailing that you did it looks well engineered enough to be streetable . I like looking at and trying to figure out the source of all the different parts that went into this build.
  2. Look'n good. One of my all time favorite kits. I like your Carson Top type treatment.
  3. To bad about the paint crazing. There is always that outside chance that the paint job can be ruined using automotive or "Hotter" paints. Sometimes just staying with the same brand of after market paints works better. I hope you can get the finish to where you want it.
  4. Very clean detailing on the body trim and the engine. Nice to see the Wide Whites for a change.
  5. I think that with a little work on the front bumper you could easily emulate the "California" bumper. The kits bumper has some relief lines to represent the less desirable front bumper used primarily where streets were heavily salted. You could sand down the kits bumper and fill the lines with filler, but I would recommend just stripping the entire bumper and after making the changes to the bumper use your favorite chroming method on the bumper.
  6. Sorry to hear of your loss. We'll hold you and your family in our prayers.
  7. I like the "shadow box" license plate mounting.
  8. I happened to be at the Winter Nationals when Ford showed up with the Thunderbolts and I think that memory is why I prefer the '64 model. I think either one would work as it would just depend on your personal preference. The Revell kit makes it pretty simple to build a '64 Drag Car, but this kit could just as easily be used to build a '63 body into a Drag Car.
  9. Have you tried using Bare-Metal Foil on small engine parts ? I have done Valve Covers and Air Cleaner tops along with other small parts. I use the Tamiya pointed cotton tips to work the foil around the parts details. I start in the middle of the part and slowly work the foil into the parts smaller details with the pointed cotton tips. The pointed tips work great in getting the foil to conform to the shape of just about anything.
  10. Kurt, your picture is making me laugh at myself right now. Not ten minuets ago this was me on our back deck trying to encourage the Geese that they should stay on the lake and off our grass. Mine is a '177 so it just makes life a little uncomfortable for them, but they're slow learners.
  11. I thought that might of been the case. I have built several of these kits through the years but I'm more of a street machine type builder so I don't build but a hand full of these then.
  12. From the top shot picture it looks as if the builder was trying to replicate the '58 Ford 4-light tail lamps. At one time AMT offered a lot of different front and rear body treatments and with this it looks as if some may of even come from other AMT kits of the time. I still have some of those style decals in my stash from back then, I'm sur they would be unusable today. Nice save here.
  13. Looks neat. When that model first came out and the 1:1 was first on the streets the Maroon color was very popular. Besides the nice detailing of trim in your restoration the color choice makes it look richer to me anyway.
  14. This looks like an old AMT annual. They used to have plastic inserts to glue into the chassis plate. These would have two sets of holes, one for stock and one for lowering the ride height. I agree the photos are out of focus but I'd grab this in a second since it looks like a relatively easy restoration project or just clean it up and display it as a blast from the past.
  15. I always glue the wheels to the axels for a couple of reasons. #1 So they can be positioned parallel to each other. #2 So the model will not roll of the shelve or display area. Now something I learned reading the information provided by others is that I've been building for years and never thought of "Flat Spotting" the tires to simulate a tire under the weight of a real car. This could also compensate for any slight difference in ride height of the model. Makes perfect sense, just wonder why I never thought of it. Thank you.
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