The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
FYI on the oil filter. Chevrolet still used the PF141 filter inside a black canister into the mid sixties. I like the Tach. Thank you for the carpet info. I have used that method before but it just didn't turn out as nice that's why I asked.
#1 I would contact Revell about that frame. You may get it close but only if you're lucky. Revell is very good about replacing items in their kits that are that bad. They have helped myself and others in the past. I like the big Hemi idea. I built a similar truck/midget combo a few years ago using the Arden engine. They match up perfectly together.
That is a very old kit from long ago, but the body seems to have the proper proportions. I have seen where others on the Forum have built this kit using the chassis and engine from the AMT '60 Ford Starliner kit. Just a thought if you should want to go into greater detail. Your scribe lines look good. Primer can fill those up pretty fast sometimes.
I believe that the fittings for the water hoses for the heater were located on the Water Pump on the passenger side and the rear of the Intake Manifold. The rear hose would mount to a small upright fitting and the "hose" portion would be easily routed away from the Distributer. I would run the front hose too the passenger side inner fender and then back to the firewall. Of course this all depends on the year model of the engine. The very early Cadillac and some other GM products like the Pontiacs had their heater cores mounted on the drivers side. I don't know what year model the engine in the kit represents but it sounds as if it may be say a early '50's engine. Since it is a custom I would use the later model configuration for convenience if nothing else.
Your build looks dead on. Turned out great. I have used a couple of Resin bodies and experienced the same paint issues you described. There are many here with far more experience and I'm sure they could offer many tips on painting Resin parts. What has worked for me is after the normal clean up is to use automotive type self etching primer so the final coats of paint have something to hang on to. Another thing to think about is if you are doing any sanding at all this should be done away from the other parts and then cleaned and primed before you start working with the plastic portion . It is possible to contaminate the plastic if you have any of the sanding dust on your hands from the Resin.
Your stained real wood looks great. More realistic than decals or trying to paint wood. Are you going to raise the rear bed wood section to be level with the forward floor section or just have it stepped ?? I like the center blue spoon, but it depends on how you are envisioning the car. The 389 - 400 -421 - 455 engines all look alike. The differences are internal with different bores and strokes.