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Everything posted by espo

  1. This problem is what started making model companies to start shrink wrapping models in the first place. Used to be they could keep "The honest people" out of the kits with just a couple of pieces of scotch tape. That lasted about a year or so and then they had to go to the shrink wrap packaging.
  2. Very clean looking standard Olds. I would put this in a plastic case to protect it as this has to bring back so many pleasant Firsts in your life. The Childs Seat in the back is the perfect touch.
  3. Great looking paint work, I like the White with Black trim.
  4. Looks like some of the late '70's street racers. The Pinto offered a Sedan Delivery type option and they also had a paint stripes that really changed the personality of the little car. I like the way you built yours here.
  5. espo

    Pontiac Fiero

    Great looking Fiero. I like the way you detailed the interior and front and rear trunks. All of the finishes look good.
  6. I think Fine Scale Modeler for what it is it's about as good as it gets if you're building just about anything but cars. I never have subscribed to Fine Scale Modeler even though they had sent sample copies thru the years trying to get me to subscribe. So when I renewed my long standing subscription to Scale Auto you can imagine my disappointment when I starting getting FSM instead. Needless to say as my subscription ends I'm not renewing my subscription.
  7. To try and paint an exhaust on say a 20 year old car or newer, these usually had some sort of mild coating and looked like stainless but not polished. I have been using Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver for the manifold too muffler pipes and the pipes from the muffler to the rear exhaust exit. For the mufflers I'll usually use TS-17 Gloss Aluminum. I'll use either Tamiya black Accent Panel Line or X-19 Smoke brush paints lightly around any muffler connection or bracket points. I prefer a light application just enough to define the connections but not enough to make them the center of attention when you're looking at the exhaust system. A vehicle in use even in dry climates will have some dust and discolorations on the exhaust. I'll give the exhaust a little more used look by lightly spraying the exhaust system by holding it at arms length and spray it with a flat clear, in my case I use Tamiya TS-80 Flat Clear. This will knock down any gloss finish from the gloss aluminum mufflers but shows a different shade of color from the pipes. Depending on the type of usage you're trying to duplicate you can use the Arm Length technique with a Flat Black or a Dark Brown to Tan. I have found that the Military colors are a good place to look since they offer many types of Dirt Finishes. One real life personal experience with an exhaust system on a 1:1 car. We moved from Northern California in '96 to Kansas City. One our cars was an '85 Monte Carlo SS that had been driven on a regular basses there in all types of weather and the exhaust system looked almost as new even with 90k miles. The car at this point was not driven here in anything but perfect weather for a couple of years. One spring morning I was going to get a hair cut and since the roads were clear of any snow and only the melting snow on the side of the road was running in only a few places and since I hadn't driven the car all summer and the sun was out I thought it would be a good idea to stretch the tires a little. Even with minimal road splash the exhaust started to look like Tom Geiger's photo within 30 days. So there is your target somewhere between the two.
  8. Glad to hear that Revell is acknowledging that there is a problem and they seem to want to fix it.
  9. I'm watching this with great interest and like everything you're doing. You mention the Yellow Roof section and as you are finding out that has always been a draw back in my mind as the Roof section is out of proportion in the rear most part of the Roof on the original model kit. Should you want to try something else other than chopping the roof maybe just lower the rear body section and tail gate bottom edge a little lower on the Ford body. From the side pillar on the yellow plastic to the back edge of the roof you can see it moving up hill in the side view.
  10. The way you detailed this is what I mean when I say something is realistic looking, because just like you did here making sure all of the correct colors are used and your effort shows. Super nice looking build.
  11. Looks great and very neatly trimmed interior and chassis. I like the accent on the sides of the roof.
  12. Great looking Firebird and I like the Trans Am color scheme.
  13. Just look at all of the light reflected by this paint work, that is smooth. All of the body trim and the HEMI decals have very sharp edges, again very clean looking.
  14. Very smooth looking paint and body. Nicely detailed interior and I agree with everyone else on the wheels.
  15. Outstanding design and the mechanicals all look very realistic. I don't recall the proper term for the under body in the rear but I think of it as a tunnel and that is also well done.
  16. I like the distressed look of this. There are more than a few that look like this or worse in my area now. I like the concrete box for added traction during the winter.
  17. Thankyou for the background information on the differences between these kits. I haven't built one but I do have them in my someday stash of models. Besides the great paint finish and color all of the trim is very cleanly done. You pointed out the different sized tires used on the 1:1 AAR and this is correct. I worked for Good Year in their retail stores in SoCal at the time and remember several being in the service dept. as well as having Sweed Savage's car on display at the store I worked at in Riverside during one of the promos for the race at the Riverside Raceway. The OEM car had E series fronts and G series rear tires and they really filled the wheel well openings.
  18. I like the way this has turned out and the wheels look good here. You mentioned a problem when painting the side markers. An alternative to masking the trim try drawing lightly with a #11 blade the outline of the trim. What should happen is when you are painting the chrome trim any runoff would stop at the line you have created. Long ago when all we had was some high metallic silver paint we called chrome this is how you would keep it off the body.
  19. Interesting looking custom body parts. I don't recall ever seeing that roof treatment before and I like the rear window setup. The square steering wheel is in keeping with the time and theme of this model, they should have made it a little smaller in scale as it looks like it would hit the door when turning. I like the way you put the foil in the tail lights.
  20. While you are doing an excellent job fixing the short comings of this kits body I wonder about the quality issues from Revell. Looking at the headliner it's as if there maybe a temperature problem when the plastic is being molded. This may also include the rear fender and hatch issues you have been working on.
  21. Hearing all of the personal stories here about this model bringing back so any memories of this model of car it doesn't really surprise me the interest shown in it. This is a model of what we used to call a "Bread and butter" car. Rather than the flashy Hardtops of the day most of us can relate to this very basic family transportation.
  22. I'll enjoy watching this, is McNally involved ?
  23. Look more like some ones after market tires. I'm looking at the solid tire centers and no sidewall details . Still they're good looking.
  24. Chiefs 22 to 17 against the Browns. All of this with a so called backup Quarterback Chad Henne starting in the 3rd Quarter. Go Chiefs.
  25. Ideas ? I would consider toning down the grill a little even if it's just making the top molding the same size as the bottom and sides of the opening. Maybe a tighter mesh center section of the grill. Lowering it would help but I wouldn't go to crazy on the rims and rubber band tires. For a real adventure how about making it a crew cab very short box design. Add a rear window and bulkhead behind the rear doors and remove the roof over the rear cargo area.
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