Oops. That is what I had wanted to do to start with but I couldn't find any good donor buckets with clear lenses to incorporate. SO, like so many model grilles out there i made them so they would be cast with the grille and thus be chromed with the grille as well.. Hmm. We need to talk. It would not be hard for me to remove them again, I just need those donor lenses & buckets to build into the grille. It's HARD to find lenses on almost any model that look accurate in the engraving of their fluting & lines. I wound up using the ones from the MPC 76 Chevy Caprice because I thought they were most accurate but sadly they are not clear lenses. They're chromed. I'll call you soon..
Well, I think I am finally done with it. Got the headlight lenses installed in the grille buckets or "doors", and the park light lenses were made as well. They don't show in this pic but they exist.. Now time to talk to Greg..
What he said. I know exactly what you're going through Greg. I went into the ER last December doubled over with stomach pain. They didn't locate that but while x-raying in the vicinity saw something else and wanted to CT scan my right kidney as well. I had a 4 CM mass on my right kidney. Since they had to pretty much do the same to biopsy or remove they went ahead with the latter. So that knocked me out last Feb-Mar. Fortunately it was benign. I never drank or smoked or took any drug of any sort, but I do like my sweet tea and Dr. Pepper. I used to be better at controlling my intake but it's really not much more now. Still... Turns out my 24 year old niece has a large one on one of hers. Just ignoring it because it's just a water cyst. Anyway, I will talk to you shortly one to one and I will have you in my prayers as always. I am confidant all will be well in the end. Take care of yourself..
Hey Greg. Family issues have encroached and caused a delay in my building. My mom is now terminally ill. Not excusing myself at all just saying my normal rate of snail like pace has been dealt a bit of a body blow.
That aside I really have to say the car is virtually done. I did the park lights up front separately so they can be cast clear and remain so or be made orange for the 88-89 versions. What I am doing now is fitting headlights into it. That will conclude it. I know I have said I would call you and I will pretty soon. Just bear with me a bit more. Thank you for asking.. D
Thanks friends.. Here are a few comparison shots plus a couple that shows how it will assemble promo-style with four point contact screws. Eliminating the need for crypto-cyo-cryanulates (wTf?!) superglues as it were and the inherent problems that resin has in assembly should hopefully be a welcome different kind of modeling experience (?) peruse at your leisure.. Thanks again...
Some of my scratchbuilt stuff. In addition to the actual cars themselves I build all the attendant accessories from scratch as well. The following 78 Ford LTD 460 Interceptor is completely scratchbuilt, as are the comm console on the seat, the cage, standing shotgun rack, TwinSonic lightbar, Jabsco overhead remote spot and Taylor Buddy Bumpers up front. My first 'labor of love' so to speak..
Built a Whelen 8000 lightbar with overhead remote spot from scratch for my 82 Diplomat LSP, seat console and map light, and bumpbars
Close to DONE final update pics. Got the moldings all back on, tailights detailed, small crown & ford badges, added a front bumper lic plate bracket and had to do a bit of mods to the interior tub.(I even made a hood ornament but forgot to include it.) But I mean it when I 'm finally ready to say this is it. It's as close as I can get on this one. I've learned a lot and it will all help me with the other incarnations. Oh, BTW: I scratchbuilt a Whelen edge 9000 just for kicks to have something to display with it. Hope ya'll like it. D
Oh, and another sneak peek of a little thing I'm working on... here's a hint: I got this from a complete glossary of Sylvester Stallone/Rambo speeches and catchphrases: in other words a 3X5 index card with the word "Yo" printed on it...
One quick update.. I had to tear it up a bit AGAIN.. The wheel well openings were too 'tight' on the tires and the C-Pillar rake was still wrong. It stood up too straight and less fastback slope. I have a computer with two screens. Back a week ago I had brought pics of it to post.but before I did d before I did I put a side view pic of the model on one screen and a side view pic of the a 1:1 CVPI on the second screen. The n I did that thing like the old cartoons when I wa a kid where you had two pics and you looked for the added or deleted things.. Back and forth back and forth ... That's when I saw those items and I could not leave it be. (Posted pics below for you to see what I mean..) I'm sorry it's still taking time but I want it to be able to sit on the shelf with your styrene offerings and not look too out of place. Anyway, I do hope to trim it out and finish it this long weekend as all the hard bodywork is DONE...
I am slow. Sadly, sickly slow. I'm NOT proud of it. I just am. the only good thing about that is by the time I'm finalizing the obvious stuff really sticks out to be addressed. I guess those makerbots will put a stop to all this scratch building nonsense before much longer. Still i do enjoy the proces even if I get tikked at myself for dragging..
First of all: No shaker for Justice. Mostly those were fake-o four screw holes drilled through the hood non operating J.C. Whitney junk. Looked kinda cool from a distance on the Mississippi HP squads. In one scene from the driver's seat you can see daylight all around the base of the 'shaker" First of all I too want to say I have had the same sentiment towards the model companies. Seems like they always only want to focus on two door sport cars or MAYBE a pickup truck here and there. When I was a kid about 11 or so I wrote Revell (I think) and asked them to do a more modern copcar. Got back a letter that more or less said THEY chose what to model and did not need any input from a snot nosed brat. Never forgot that. I mean it really did have a snide tone to it. Their subsequent monetary troubles and sale to...AMT? I dunno, but it gave me no less than a good gloat. Like you I have pointed out their blindness for anything other than camaro's, firebirds & mustangs ad nauseum but if that wasn't bad enough, you had to wade through a different offering of each of those each model year, from every one of the model companies out there!! God I hated them all for that. Would it kill them do do a good four door family car as they used to do the Lincoln continental annuals each years? Guess so. They killed that off even around 1970 I think. To all that asked about scratchbuilding, I'm afraid it is simply not as simple as mating this half a model to another half, if I read that correctly. First you need to find the nearest styrene kit to use as a donor. It's best if there is already a two door version of the car you want but barring that a near sibling helps and is better than total scratch. Remember that in the 70's, there were many cars that were the same under the sheet metal. Wheelbase, dimensions etc. As in the Buick Regal,Olds Cutlass, Chevy Monte Carlo and the Pontiac LeMans. SO I want to build a LeMans the nearest commercial modeled sibling was the JoHan Olds Cutlass 73-75 versions. They are 2drs but you have to stretch the body and the frame. Do you're homework on wheelbases and get a good 1:1 - 1/24 or 1/25 conversion ruler. Use Evergreen styrene to stretch the frame first to a 4dr chassis and then the body itself. Re-work the body lines from the 2 to the 4 doors. Oh, and stretch the interior tub as well. And it may be just me but I search for and copy off the net whatever I',m building. I need pics of it from every conceivable angle for reference. If I can get access to a real one I spend a good while measuring every body panel top to bottom, & width. Use the ruler to transfer and work slow. Feel free unlike me to spend less than a decade tho! The final body sculpting for me is done using 1:1 tube body spot air dry body putty from PPG. It has tolulene as a base so it 'melts into the styrene and gives the catalyzed body putty (the good stuff) a chance to grab on better. If you put the catalyzed stuff directly to styrene it eventrually WILL pop loose or crack PPG non catalyzed air dry spot filler is great for a start and try to do as much in styrene as possible. Putty is easy but it shrinks and has other problems if used thickly. About all I can think of really More pics coming SOON. Thank you one and all!