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dpride

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Everything posted by dpride

  1. Some of your photos would fool some people if your DOF was carried right through. Great job..I like.
  2. Great stuff, and all this time I thought you were going to build a metal body How will you prepare the surface for painting?
  3. Ognib, I haven't checked into this forum in a long time because of outside jobs. Having refreshed my memory of this model I have to ask, with all due respect, have you completed a panel from the dozens of bucks you have made? I generally check and do the panels as I go. Also in that "away time" I produced some piece with methods that might be of help. If you will look through this post and consider the front axle construct and the method of doing the headers. http://largescalemodelers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=457 Again, this is only a "serving suggestion".
  4. jb, the salt and a portion of the mountains is a photo of Bonneville from the net. The car was photographed in sunlight on white paper with baking soda for the "salt" element. I isolated the car and it's shadows from the shot and placed that element on a digitally altered background. There are about 8 pieces of sky to the 'moody' background from the net. The camera was a $75 Kodak pocket camera and the software is "Painter5" which I've used since 1998. Harry P would have a handle on this trickery.... No more 1/4 scale, I'm building 1/8 and .........what a change. Thanks for comments jb and Scott.
  5. jbwelda said: "wow! what the heck are you gonna do for an encore?" No encore, I'm done and finished building this scale. So no more on this forum. Here's the other car finished. I want to thank the people who bothered to take the time to comment
  6. Thanks Patrick, and glad you recovered the Citroen .....
  7. Many thanks to those who commented. I makes a good start to the day when you read positive feadback. Glen, the car is 48" long.
  8. Some detail shots: thanks for checking it out....
  9. "I never seen a feature like this before - it warms your ass. Its wonderful. Have you tried it?" Walter Bishop
  10. I don't get the position of the pitman arm in relation to the position of the front wheels, or is the draglink not yet attached at the front?
  11. I knew you would remake the wheels. That tiny "mistake" would be on your mind for the rest of the build. Now it matches the rest of the car. Have to say, it's looking pretty good.
  12. Dave, excuse the late answer. All of the metal bits are bolted together and some of the major plastic parts. At this size they get heavy.
  13. Stainless is difficult to work with but it doesn't rust and polishes great. I make most of my suspension components from 316. 45% silver solder works great to join parts and if you flow it in rather than pile it on, it blends in to the parent metal. I have been wanting to try laser welding on some of the parts like brackets etc but I live too far from a company who will let me use their machine. Ever had any dealings with laser welding? Your rig is coming along great.
  14. Scott, Thanks. There is one other large scale car of mine in this forum "Fiat twin engine coupe" I have a 27 Ford fuel modified roadster (salt flats car) almost finished. I will post that when it's done.
  15. Bob, I could probably build one in about 6 weeks if I had a deadline, depending on the type of car. The other 2 cars I'm doing have been about a year in the making. Because no kits or parts are available, I have to make all the bits. Leonard, thanks Mike, I have imagined that too... :-)
  16. Dave, thanks. Your rig is progressing nicely too. pharoah, the body was made from styrene profiles and styrene sheet in all the areas I could bend without compound forming. The compound shapes were done with styrene foam and Bondo to blend to the profiles.. Silicone rubber mold and vinyl ester tooling gelcoat and VE laminating resin for the finished body. VE resin are low shrink and didn't warp the thin mold.
  17. It's been a while since I posted updates on this car. I have been building two cars concurrently and will finish both about the time. A shot of the engines. No oil stains yet.
  18. Looking good, hope you made a load of those tiny parts while the mill was 'setup'. The last time I made clevises and rod ends, I made many copies......just in case. I think the hardest part about making these intricate parts is covering them with a shield or body panel. Nice work.
  19. pappabear, the body is made from: Two layers of vinylester tooling gelcoat. Two layers of 225 gram chop-strand mat glass. The reason for vinylester over polester is the minimal shrinkage with VE resins. The reason for vinylester over epoxy is the issue of bond between gelcoat and mat layers and post cure issues etc. The C-cab would be one of the easiest to do if you used a big T cowl and the rest flat sheet with minimal bending. If you want a T model C-cab.... Like Bills bigger projects, most compound curves can be accomplished with profiles and filling the gaps. This another shape done with profiles and bondo. The grille shell is formed aluminum. The key to getting the desired shape quickly is to use wipers that approximate the final curves. I use 1/8" rubber sheet cut into small shapes or squares to do the final applications of putty. They form to the underlying shapes so you don't have to spend hours sanding off mounds of putty.
  20. Thanks Bill, looks like both of us have had our share of "Ford Clay" under our fingernails......... Your avatar critter is pretty cool too.
  21. I recently did a 27 roadster body in glass for a salt flat racer. Here are the steps used to make it. I drew plans at the scale I'm using, made profiles at key points, and used bulkheads made of scrap to make the frame. Silicone rubber mold about 6mm thick. Plaster jacket for mold with wire clips. Layup is two layers of vinylester tooling gelcoat with two layers of 225 gram chopstrand mat. Untrimmed return. Trimmed body.
  22. Do you mean from scratch or copy an existing body?
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