Ray, What an awesome tutorial! I have long wanted to bend small diameter brass and aluminum tubing at 90 degree angles to make ambulance stretchers and brush guards. I didn't want to spend the big bucks on a tool that I wouldn't use often. I will be getting the components together and giving this a try!
I have used it several times and LOVE it! Because it is not solvent based, it does not damage surrounding detail. I haven't had any adhesion problems. As it is NOT solvent based, NO noxious odors! It sands and feathers well - another great feature. Check out the videos on Youtube. A 40ml tube costs $7-8.00 at most hobby stores. Any LH?S that uses Horizon Hobby can get it or any of the Deluxe Materials products for you. I have no financial or material connection to this product. I am just a happy customer!
She's looking great! I see that you are aware of Harbor Freight. They make a nice mini punch set that is a whole lot cheaper than the Waldron Models ones. While it won't do holes as small as the Waldron ones, it is great for uses such as you have here. http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-punch-and-die-set-95547.html
I bought mine for $30.00 Don't remember if it was on sale, or they have raised the price recently... Very useful though.
If you have an airbrush, Alclad allows you to mix any of their colors together. Have fun and experiment! As Bill said above, cast aluminum can look different depending upon several factors. FYI, for replicating a rough "cast" finish, Alclad CAN be brushed on small areas where you don't need a smooth "chrome" like finish.
A lot of friends have been using a gentleman named Jeff from "Firebird Designs ". I am told his prices, quality, decals, and turn around time are great! Look forward to following your project! If you have any questions, we're all here to assist!
If you have never scratbuilt a rescue box before, I will share my method with you. I build a 3 dimensional "framework", similar to stick building a house. Build each "side" separately, making sure that each is true and square. Drawing a template to scale and a miter box with a stop or chop saw can help. I like to use .080 or .10 square Evergreen stock. Once you have created your "rectangular box, you can glue it all together. The wheelwells can be square, as you will cut the circular openings in the sheet plastic "skin" tthat you will apply over the frame. Wheel moldings can be built by applying strips of Evergreen stock that is tall than the thickness of the side frame and skin. By using stock that rises above the exterior "skin" of the box, you can build up multiple layers of strip, the apply a small section of 1/4 round,styrene or simply round over the edge with a file. Pretty easy actually. You can use cardboard to gauge you spaces before you commit to more expensive styrene.