Dang that interior looks clean Mike. I've installed a box of doughnuts in the Citation and now the body, interior and chassis are permanently mated. A last minute change of wheels has delayed things slightly but it's worth it as everything looks better with slot mags. Obviously they'll be hidden behind hub caps but i'll know they're there. The previous wheel selection were just too tall. Paint touch ups, mirrors, rear lights and weathering and it'll be done. Of course I could always drop it...
Good work everyone. I thought I was cutting it fine but some of you guys... The Citation is pretty much at the stage where I could button it up and call it done. Needs a box of doughnuts installing in the cabin and some rust, dust & dirt adding but it's all there and i should be at the start line as long as I don't break something putting the body on.
Yes, I know I said it'd be silver over black but I didn't have any black car paint. Some ghosting has occurred on the bonnet where I removed the bulge so to hide it i'm going to put a white filter (hopefully looking like oxidised paint) followed by satin clear.
Yep. I'll be putting mesh panels on the bottoms of the door which will be hiding the ends of the extractors. Not only is the engine set right back but its also sitting very low in the chassis meaning room for some subtlety on the induction front - like dual quads on a tunnel ram...
So am i. Mounting the body to the Prowler chassis, preventing the mounting pins from breaking (many times - plastic ones will be replaced with steel tomorrow) and building the interior panelling (body on & off many times a session - hence the pins breaking) have all slowed me right down. That and building "what if" model aircraft. One month to go though - time to get busy. I'll shoot some snaps tomorrow if I get a chance.
Still here, not dead yet. Been chipping away at the Citation and have almost got the interior built. Bodyworks done. Just need to build a hinge for the flip front. Mechanically it's just a case of induction and cooling to be sorted. Paint will need doing as well, but the beauty of a sleeper build is it can be a quick & dirty primer job if it has to. My thoughts on a 'strayan Cannonball is that the Sydney to Perth route is preferable as contestants can choose the longer route via Melbourne & Adelaide on sealed roads or the shorter more direct route straight across the middle which will require ability to cope with unsealed roads (not necessarily 4wd though - the '79 Repco round Australia rally was won by a 2wd 6 cylinder Holden Commodore). Specifying Sydney to Perth means that contestants can choose a pure road car or something rougher & tougher. Also all entries should be RHD. It's not hard and anyone who is put off by the thought of doing it probably isn't committed enough anyway.
The interior parts and the engine are just propped on top of the chassis to give some idea of where everything will sit in relation to everything else.
I probably should have said that.
I need to check the accessory drive but if it'll clear the front suspension then i'll leave the engine where it is. I then won't use the Prowler interior tub but will scratchbuild a firewall up tight to the back of the engine. This will then allow me to position the seats roughly where the B pillars are.
Always one to buck a trend i've actually got something done. Maybe because the weather has got cold and dank here as winter starts making it prime scratchbuilding season.
Here's the stretched body alongside the Prowler chassis with a 440 Magnum donk shoehorned in. The V8 wouldn't fit with the Prowler body because the radiator sits between the engine and the front suspension. However you can see I have a lot of extra space in front of the front wheels so I can put all the cooling gubbins there.
Also not that if I don't move the seating position forward a touch the driver is gong to be looking out of the rear side windows and is going to have fun getting in and out.
I've actually been doing some work on the Citation.
I've been adding more plastic to fill in where i've extended the body and i've pulled apart the chassis I fixed together with white glue (to get the wheelbase correct) so I can use real glue and paint it.
It seems that the driver and navigator may be sitting in the back.
"Steering the Kettenkrad was accomplished by turning the handlebars: Up to a certain point, only the front wheel would steer the vehicle. A motion of the handlebars beyond that point would engage the track brakes to help make turns sharper. It was also possible to run the vehicle without the front wheel installed and this was recommended in extreme off-road conditions where speed would be kept low."