I second that. Worst cases i've had were rims i'd painted with automotive lacquer. I've also have a true I left in contact with the paint on an adjacent build burn right through Future, Tamiya TS paint and primer to the plastic (which might suggest Future isn't going to protect the rims). If you want to see just how tyres change as the plasticisers leach out then leave some in brake fluid for a few weeks. You'll be amazed how much they shrink by.
Well done Mike. I remember that build. I always liked it and it seems i'm not the only one. Having build some engine mounts on my Caprice I offer the chassis up to the body with the engine in place to find the back of the induction fouling the beaver panel. I probably should have checked this before I built them. So, off they came and on went a new set. Having got the fore and aft position of the donk set I could then rebuild the gearbox cross member I had to slice off to fit the tranny and start to build a tubular K member replacement. Small steps but its how I like to work. Lots of builds on the go at which I whittle away slowly until suddenly I realise the deadline is approaching at which point its panic panic panic all systems go for launch.
I have issues with tyres sticking to the shelves in my display cases. Just the vinyl tyres and they only stick to varnished or melamine shelves. I have always assumed it is caused by the same plasticisers leaching out as causes tyre burn. I have to remember to be carefull picking up a build just in case doing so too roughly leaves a wheel behind.
I've been tinkering. I've glued the front subframe on setting the wheelbase. Turns out the AMT '76 Caprice is exactly 5mm longer than the same manufacturers '70 Superbee. With that done I then moved on to building motor mounts. This necessitated removing the K-member so that'll have to be replaced with something tubular when I build some front suspension.
Welcome Fred. I've built vans for previous runs. This one had a blown BBC, 'vette running gear and four 44 gal drums of fuel plumbed into the stock tank via a complicated pump and manifold system. It was built for the last Scale Auto run, catching fire and exploding somewhere on the outskirts of New York.
Glad to be back Jant. A very good modelling friend died last year which got me down. It has however just been pointed out to me that the last thing he would have wanted to do was stop me building. And that was something I needed to hear. Velma is already hard at work plotting a route consisting only of straights separated by service stations. I am hard at work planning how to fit a fridge, microwave, coffee machine and box of donuts in the back seat, revise the suspension and upgrade the brakes.
OK. A decision has been made. Sometimes my habit of gathering parts for a build into one box and then putting that box back into the stash pays off. Having rejected the idea of a Meyers Hemi Manx as being too impractical (for a sea to shining sea run anyway) I first pulled out a box containing an AMT Duster chassis with an MPC Dart body. The Dusters 340 was missing (there is a Lindberg slant 6 in the box) but I have a couple of Clearly Scale resin supercharged 6.1 Hemis... ...But no, while tempting (my winning build for the first run used the AMT Duster chassis) that is too subtle. so I dug back into the stash again and pulled out this...
The box is labelled Pro Lux. It's the AMT '76 Caprice body shell and interior tub sat on the same makers '70 Dodge Super Bee Pro Street Chassis. The rear half of the chassis fits like it was meant to be there and as the Mopars front subframe is moulded separately, matching the wheelbase will simply be a question of shaving off the mounting pins and gluing it further forwards.
The tunnel rammed Hemi was long ago used in something else but I have the engine I built for last years run so i'll use that. It's a Ross Gibson Sonny's Mountain Thunder 762ci Pro Street engine. That should do the trick. Here's a quick mock up.
So, put me down as entered Rob - zenrat in ProLux. This year my co-driver will be Velma Dinkley
Yeah, I know that but from past experience Niko has similar tastes to me so they could end up looking similar and that'll show up that his work is better than mine . No, I have ideas but I need to match bodies up to chassis' to see whats possible.
Hi folks. Some great looking builds there. I suppose I should think about entering this one. Better late than never eh? Mind you, I spend most of the year not doing anything anyway. My first thought was to finally build my Johan Turbine Car but I see W-409 has beaten me to that idea. I'll need to go and immerse myself in the stash and do some thinking. Something particularly impractical for this one I feel.
I'm dropping out of this one guys. I'm just not feeling it this year. The car scratching mojo has left me and there's no point in wasting plastic. I'm still building, just not scratchbuilding to this extent.
Whatever the asking price was for the Modelhaus '70 Ford and '73 Chevy 4 door wagons I ordered as soon as I realised I couldn't put off buying them any longer as they were closing down. Didn't help that our dollar plummeted between placing the order and them charging my card. Worth it though.
Just checking in. I've actually done something - I glued the gearbox (Clearly Scale T56) to the engine (Ross Gibson 811ci Sonny's Mountain Thunder I built earlier). Now I can start making the chassis. Has anyone posted this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImaiRcDGbO4 It's the 1979 Repco Reliability Trial. Basically a race round Australia for "factory stock" cars. It'll give you an idea of road conditions off the bitumen.