Whatever the asking price was for the Modelhaus '70 Ford and '73 Chevy 4 door wagons I ordered as soon as I realised I couldn't put off buying them any longer as they were closing down. Didn't help that our dollar plummeted between placing the order and them charging my card. Worth it though.
Just checking in. I've actually done something - I glued the gearbox (Clearly Scale T56) to the engine (Ross Gibson 811ci Sonny's Mountain Thunder I built earlier). Now I can start making the chassis. Has anyone posted this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImaiRcDGbO4 It's the 1979 Repco Reliability Trial. Basically a race round Australia for "factory stock" cars. It'll give you an idea of road conditions off the bitumen.
Awwwwwwwwwwwww. Come on Rob. Plenty of time left. Can the plan and start again maybe? However, in the end it's meant to be fun so don't force it. Who knows though, maybe by August you'll have cleared some stuff and will want back in.
It's an illegal street race David. Probably not a good idea to advertise you are participating. Good work every one. Looks like there'll be lots of utes in this one. I've ordered an engine from Clearly Scale in order to get a suitable manual gearbox. Very good communication from him. He tells me it's been sent to the US for forwarding down here. I can't start building the chassis until I get the transmission but in the meantime i've cut down the Grand National body to make a ute cab and after rummaging through my parts boxes have located a pair of resin 9 inch diffs I'll use as centres for the independent suspension.
Maybe. Some say silver automotive paint will seal in the red and others Future but IME nothing will keep it hidden if you go too heavy with a later coat (due I assume to the solvents penetrating down through the layers). I'd say prime and them apply a white undercoat over the top. if it stays white then you've done it. If not then you need to try something else. And if you have success then light coats only as you apply the rest of the paint. Enamel primer will not work on its own. Of course you could always paint it red. A tip for making RHD dashes. The hardest part is getting a good fit to the base of the windscreen and the sides of the interior tub. To ensure you get this take the original LHD dash from the kit and cut away the guts leaving a C shaped shell. You may need to glue a temporary brace across inside before you cut to maintain rigidity. Your aim is to remove anything which isn't symmetrical. Then, cut the instruments, stereo, ash tray etc from the bits you cut off and using sheet styrene and filler rebuild the C section shaped into a dash with the steering on the correct side. It's not too hard if you are not going for something prototypically correct. Kits which give you decals for the instruments are your friend here. As far as the pedals re concerned I rarely bother moving them from left to right unless I am building an open car as when everything is all buttoned up you usually can't see them anyway.
I was going to have a year off but seeing as how it's local... I'll be knocking up a car based ute with a tray back on a scratchbuilt/kitbashed chassis. Current front runners for parts donors are my last remaining Buick Grand National, a Ross Gibson Monster Motor, The Parts Box 4wd tyres and a Monogram High Roller Chevelle. I'm Imagining a combination of these...
The roo bar on the Ramcharger is a narrowed Italeri 1/24 truck item. It comes in one of their truck accessories sets. The wheels and tyres are from www.thepartsbox.com.