No updates at the moment. It's winter here in Australia and it's a bit too cold where I am to paint anything and I've not been motivated to do the remaining building and modifying that I had to do. The cold weather is killing my motivation for anything model related at the moment. I'll get back on it soon enough- hopefully. CheersSS
Here's how I fixed that. I stuck some Tamiya tape underneath the tail light cut out and mixed up some talc and superglue and slapped it on to the damaged area.
When the glue set I removed the tape,
and shaped the area to suit.
Good as gold
I hit the body with Tamiya TS-46 light sand for the base coat.
Mixed up some beige using Tamiya TS-7 Racing white tinted with TS-16 Yellow and AS-22 Dark earth to make a pale caramel colour. Done only by eye without taking any notes about how much of each that I used.
The first coat was sprayed today.
This are some samples of what the real Bahama beige looks like.
So with the first colour coat on the body I will work to get it nice and smooth and hopefully the next update will include a fully painted body.
The clear styrene window pieces shaped and ready to go. I decided to have both rear passenger windows fully wound up, the front passenger window wound down 2/3rds and the drivers window fully wound down.
Even after 4 years things still turn bad. I had to strip and re-spray the primer on the body after it went soft when I had to handle the body frequently during the work on the interior. All went well until an unexpected gust of wind (on a calm day) sent the body on a 3ft downwards trip to the cement path causing damage to the rear trim around the tail lights.
I've finally got the first coat of paint on the body but before that there was still a little more work that needed to be done here's how it went.
Lets start with the interior roof.
I made the sun visors, light and grab handles.
It's been a long time since I showed you a how-to for anything so here's a quickie for making many of the same type of flat part.
Cut the styrene pieces to slightly larger than the final size.
Using small drops of super glue, glue the pieces to each other.
Carve, grind and sand the block to the required shape.
Separate the parts with a sharp blade then clean them up as required.
I did the sun visors in the same way.
The next challenge was to get the window glass to sit closer to the outside of the window frame. The only way to do this was to alter the thickness of the pillars around the inside of the frames. I also decided to add a filler piece inside to create a channel for the clear styrene sheet to sit in.
I still need to do the wiring for the tail lights to the connector but that's no biggie. I'm fairly pleased with that for a first attempt at weathering as I had no real idea about what i was doing. I think it may need a little more dust and grime underneath though. I'll think about it.
Still tweaking the body so it's on to the trailer. I wanted to do it with a worn but not excessively corroded look. The 1:1 was never damaged beyond any chips and scratches so at least I didn't have to show any sheet metal damage and I could just keep it to creative paint work. Not having done any serious weathering on anything it was all uncharted territory for me but I love jumping in the deep end so here's how it went.
This is where it started a long time ago.
Some practice on a spoon to give me an idea of what to do.
Then I got into it.
I sprayed the AK worn effects fluid on the top and side surfaces and the heavy chipping fluid to the underside and after that was dry I mixed MRHobby gold acrylic with Windex window cleaner, 1 part of gold to 1 part Windex and shot it through the airbrush straight over the chipping fluid and the rust colour primer. I think it came out as a fairly accurate hammer finish gold.
I used these simple tools to slowly wear away the top layer of paint.
After the chipping was done it was time to hit it with several different rust colour washes and pigments.
Hi guys, here's a re-post of my last update after the loss of the previous one.
I wanted to get some painting done during a time of perfect painting conditions but I still needed to do some work on how the windows fit to the body so I decided to clean off one of the interior sets and do the whole interior for the curbside version.
Here is what I am aiming for. The pics aren't of the actual car I am modelling but a similar one. The colour in the pics is a little washed out so I went by memory of the 1:1.
I am using Vallejo paints for the first time. I bought several shades of brown/tan/beige and mixed up 3 shades of tan/beige for the interior.
The tub was painted and flocked and the speakers, floor mat and pedals added.
The door cards were painted and were given a light wash of light brown.
The centre console.
The rear seat was painted and assorted belts and buckles were added. The stripes on the seats were individually masked and brush painted.
The finished dash with photo etch keys in the ignition.
The front seats had all the gaps and dips filled before painting and 3 coats of off white flocking were added to replicate the sheep skin seat covers the 1:1 car had.
Thanks for noticing John. I make a conscious effort to keep things clean and crisp as I go along as there is nothing worse than having a whole bunch of parts that need cleaning up all at once. It makes life a whole lot easier that's for sure.
The next fiddly thing to do was the handbrake mechanisms. Although I had previously done the handbrake system for the curbside version I wanted to refine what I did to get it looking a bit better. It took me a while to figure out where I was going with it but I made it in the end.
Using K+S steel wire, Albion nickel silver and brass tubes, T2M 1mm springs and some evergreen this is what I came up with.
In my eyes it's a lot better than the curbside version.
A job for this week is to remake the curbside handbrake system to match the full detail version.
Other work done recently include.
Re-shaping the nose.
The right rear 1/4 window frame broke off at some stage and had to be replaced.
And finally I got the curbside body in primer and fixed the issues on it. It's ready for paint now.
After I have re-done the curbside handbrake system it's time to move on to the fuel and brake lines, it's not something that I have been looking forward to but I'll get it done .
I have finished rebuilding the top of the engine bay,
It's now stronger and slightly thicker. The only areas to survive the rebuild are marked in red.
I have solved the problem of having a working bonnet hinge by doing away with the hinge altogether. Let's face it you guys are only ever going to see the bonnet up or down so I figured I'll build it that way. I noticed that the front corners of the interior tub were directly under the hinge slots so I put a small box on both front corners,
I also glued some styrene strips on to the hinge arms to make them thicker so they sit in the boxes nicely.
The next task was to make a strut for the drivers side. Obviously on the 1:1 it's there to keep the bonnet up but here it strictly decorative. I used Albion brass tube with a length of stainless rod from Hobby Design and some styrene rod. It's mounted on a bracket under the bonnet.
The strut will be permanently mounted on the bonnet when closed and I can fold it down and put it in its place on the top of the engine bay when I want the bonnet to be displayed open.