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Everything posted by JohnU

  1. Just to update. It finally did get delivered on May 10. Funny thing is the tracking info changed too! Very odd!
  2. Here’s an interesting eBay tracking update! Never seen this before! Hope it shows up someday!🤔
  3. Yup. Drugs will do that to ya!
  4. Just bought one too. Was not aware there were two holes! Thanks for the heads up!
  5. Unless you reeeally really want the box art, you can probably do better price wise!
  6. Don’t know how to copy the link from my phone but, there’s a thread on this forum Using Alcohol and Distilled Water for Static Charge Removal dated September 20 2014 on this exact subject! Try the google search to get to it. Should answer your question.
  7. I decided to try my hand at some weathering and picked up some Tamiya weathering sets at hobby lobby. I checked out some YouTube videos for some instruction and kinda got the gist of it, just need to practice. The question I have and isn’t clear anywhere is, if these powders can be thinned somehow. I was expecting a consistency of something like my wife’s eyeshadow makeup. This stuff seems much harder and doesn’t pickup on the applicator very well. I should say, some colors do better than others but just not consistent for one to the other. I realize this is a dry-ish application but it’s not picking up very well so, I thought if I could dip the applicator in some thinner it would pick up and apply better. Any ideas before I experiment and possibly ruin the stuff would be helpful. It’s a little pricier than I expected! Thanks!
  8. I don’t usually like to complain about things that can mostly be resolved with a little imagination but, today I pulled out of my stash the out of production Trumpeter ‘63 Nova coupe. Still sealed in the original cellophane! Decided it was time to build this one in dedication to my high school sweetheart. She drove one of these in our senior year and taught me how to drive a stick in it! We graduated in ‘77 and she went off to college. We were talking about possibly getting married after she finished school and got a job teaching special education. The degree she was studying for. But in ‘79 she was killed in a bad accident while taking a break from her studies to go for a bike ride and was hit by a van driving way too fast for the road conditions. Never saw her on the curving hilly street they were on. This broke my heart for a long time! I still think about her and what might have been. Anyway, I’m getting into this kit and as is my habit planning my project sequence for paint, assembly, etc. start taking inventory of the parts and find that the left headlight bucket is missing! Now mind you, this kit has not been opened and still sealed in its bags! I think well, maybe it’s a short shot! This is the chrome tree and the chrome covers the nub where the part should be! But everything else is molded sharp and complete so after close examination it appears that the part must have pulled or broke off before chroming! Needless to say I am more than peeved! I don’t have to tell anyone here that this is a difficult and expensive kit to get these days! I got lucky and was able to acquire this kit from an estate sale at a reasonable price with all intentions of building it. Now I’m stuck unless I can get a replacement or figure out something! Maybe the AMT repop wagon kit will fit. I don’t know. Right now I’m too POed to think straight! Anyway, thanks for letting me rant!
  9. Now take that and put it in a box and it will improve the amount of time it takes! Also brings down the humidity a little too. Basically what I do. Oh, and maybe use a bulb thermometer to monitor temperature. My box gets about 95 degrees with a 100 watt incandescent bulb.
  10. Elmers make a clear school glue. Just like the white only clear! Use it for lenses and windshield.
  11. It’s been mentioned that Windex or washer fluid was used to thin craft paint. These are usually tinted blue! Doesn’t this affect the paint color?
  12. Well, I’ll compare it to styrene model plastic. Rockwell B scale we use where I work to check softer metal materials for production stampings. Now, I’m not sure how accurate it will be or even if it’s going to work, but I’m going to try for my own curiosity. So there’s the reference point. A durometer test would probably be more accurate but I don’t think we have one.
  13. I used small dabs on clear parts that allow the UV light to pass through and penetrate the Bondic and thoroughly cure it. I tried to poke a pin in the joint to test the softness and couldn’t pierce it! I was skeptical at first considering the tiny light they provided. Was quite impressed! Again, these were small dabs not thick beads. The Bondic instructions show that if heavier amounts are needed, it should be built up in layers. Maybe a more intense UV flashlight or as mentioned, sunlight is needed for your application. I ordered a UV penlight from Amazon with an adjustable beam. Should be here by Monday or Tuesday. I’ll do an experiment at work and try to check the hardness on a Rockwell tester if possible, to see what it is on the B scale. Get back with results before the end of the week
  14. I’m using it right now to assemble the clear parts of the Renwal visible V8 engine. Cures up rock solid with no fumes like two part clear epoxy! Instructions say to expose the UV light for ten seconds but I used it for at least thirty seconds at each joint. These parts aren’t going anywhere! Built this kit when I was a kid with the old tube glue with reasonable success but man, wish this stuff was around back then it would probably have been much prettier without the clouding and smudges! Theo, thanks for the heads up! I’m diggin that Rayovac UV light! Might have to make the small investment for one to use on more applications.
  15. Eh…don’t mind me captain. I’m just a tourist here and don’t visit often. Usually only to harvest a nugget or two of info that catches my eye over the years. Probably should have minded my own business. Guess this is what happens when I decide to comment a couple of cocktails in! Just couldn’t help but notice though, what seems to me, a lot more snark on the forum threads I tend to visit than I remember. That’s all I meant. Nothing personal! And oh, I get the idea of “spirited discussion” -yada yada ya. Just maybe a little more tolerance for us neophytes maybe. And yeah, I suppose it’s up to the Mods to decide what’s what. So, maybe it’s just me, being too sensitive when I imbibe while internet surfing seeing bullies and demons to defend against! With that, carry on! Didn’t mean to disturb the natives!
  16. Seems some of the kids that were put in “time out” are back in the sandbox again!😜
  17. I subscribe to the channel!
  18. Glad I came across this thread! So, a while ago I bought the original Renwal kit to build again like when I was a kid from EBay. Long story short, it didn’t have all the clear engine block parts. Everything else to make a running model was there and worked! I bought the Revell kit from HL with 40% coupon (before they discontinued) to complete it. After seeing this thread, I compared the parts in question here and found what might be the problem. I posted pictures for reference. The first picture is the Renwal part sprue the second picture is the Revell part and the third is a side by side comparison. Looks like Revell screwed up the mold and rounded off the tops of the lifters! This also added material to the hight as well! Did a measurement of a random part from each sprue and found Revell added approximately .020 in. to the lifter! Renwal is .550 in. Revell is. .570 in. at the lifter end! The rod end looks to be about the same. I suppose if you’re careful about sizing the length of the total rod and lifter it shouldn’t matter. Just thought the radiused lifter was curious. Was Revell trying to make an improvement? Think I might stick with the flat Renwal parts. I remember my original build when I was a kid worked! Although, my Dad did help with the electrical part!😜
  19. Or just don’t use it. Canopy glue, PA glue, clear epoxy is better. I got away from the super glues all together for most, and I mean most everything that’s final assembly. Still use for mock ups. Never on clear parts. Done with that!
  20. What are you talking about? I tried googling “plumbers tape” and all that I could find was PTFE thread tape! Got a better clue of what you mean?
  21. Well, better over shot than under shot! Parts should be fine but, you got a little trimming to do there!
  22. I can’t stand this thing! Aside the poor guy that committed suicide because of it, they incessantly run this commercial until it would drive any sane person nutty!
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