JohnU
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Posts posted by JohnU
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5 hours ago, Snake45 said:
Yesterday I (apparently) looked at a built AMT '66 Skylark (Craftsman, molded in green)--no Buy It Now, but a starting bid of $115.
No bids, no watchers.
Just got an email inviting me to make an offer.
I already have one, and parts of another one. Maybe I'll offer him $35.
Had a sorta funny experience for a watched item I kept getting “another chance” email. Seller had an opening bid for auction of $25 for an AMT 34 Ford 2 in 1 but also had a make offer as well. It closed and relisted twice with no bids but I did make an offer for $20 both times and was rejected. Listed a third time. Same thing, made my offer and this time accepted! Guess the seller decided a sure thing was better than nothing! My perspective is, why list a starting price auction bid then have a make offer at the same time! Stands to reason it’s going to be lowballed especially with $15 shipping!
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The stupid Japanese mouth apparatus and earwax removal technique are ads that are extremely annoying as you know what!
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On 11/29/2020 at 9:17 AM, NOBLNG said:
This is an easy was to find the centre of any round rod for when you need to drill a hole in the end of it. Find something that is very close to half the thickness of the rod. Butt the rod up against the spacer and scribe a light line with a hobby knife. Rotate it approximately 90 degrees and scribe another. Do this four times and you will have a double set of crosshairs straddling the exact centre. A light rubbing with a pencil will make them more visible. To get a relatively centered hole clear through a short piece, I drill from both ends and let them meet in the middle. This is likely as close as you’ll get without a lathe or drill press. YMMV.
I like this idea! You could use a feeler gage set to stack up the exact amount you need for the radius of the rod to scribe the center!
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I’m toying with the idea of using a battery operated electric toothbrush and modifying it to take sanding and polishing pads. Still in the mental experiment stage.? Not an original idea though, I think it was deep in this forum somewhere!
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9 hours ago, Snake45 said:
The one in my link. If your Walmart doesn't have it, you can order it through the website for pickup at your local store.
Jeez! I checked your link and Walmart shows it’s out of stock already! Guess your tip rallied all the hoarders!?
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Another vote for Tamiya smoke. I use the bottle stuff and brush it on. Used it on the rims (not original to the kit) of this Revell Black Widow. You can see the difference to the bumper where I didn’t use it.
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On eBay a seller called Larrygscale has a ton of finished diorama stuff. G scale that translates to approximately 1/24, 1/25. A little pricey but appears to be finished and ready to use. Stuff I didn’t know you could find! I haven’t bought anything yet but it’s fun to look at what he’s got!
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19 minutes ago, cobraman said:
I have been to Carmax and found their prices to be high and like most places want your trade for next to nothing.
So...typical used car dealer.?The wife was curious about them too. I’ve figured with their advertising overhead they weren’t the best bargain in town.
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Just did the same thing except I used a round white sticker label on the lid first. Some of the darker colors kinda disappear against the black lid. Also added the paint ID number as well.
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Wow Brian, thanks for the link! Gonna book mark it. That looks like a match for the calendar picture car I’m talking about! Got a much better view of the drop top boot and it looks like it might be much easier to fabricate myself than to source it from a different kit.
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Thanks for the info guys. I figured I would have to make my own. Been scouring my stash of limited convertibles kits and was coming up with nothing that would fit or modify close enough. I didn’t realize Studebaker actually didn’t have a convertible. My inspiration was from a car calendar photo we have at work. It has red body paint, white interior, a black folded down top. It’s got a lowered stance with wire rims and wide white wall tires. The grill bars have been removed for a more open look. I suppose it’s obviously a custom job but boy, I can’t stop wanting to build one just like it! It looks so classic cool!
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I’ve got an older release of this kit and I’d love to make a convertible out of it. But I’m struggling with finding a boot that will fit without too much hacking! It would be nice to have this option in the reissue!
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Ok, I see a seller from Australia listing $3.30 with $28 US for shipping.
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Wow! $27.00 for 14 ml (.49oz) with free shipping from England on eBay! Wonder what it will cost if it becomes available in the US.
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Well, after a little gentle research on Google (Scalemates, RC World), I’ve discovered that it is an acrylic varnish. Suggests to me it’s very similar to Future floor finish. In a smaller bottle!?
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I’m a lefty and learned to play guitar at eight years old. Seemed to come easy because all the notes and cords are manipulated on the neck with the left hand! Never understood the need for flipping and restringing for a “left hand guitar”!
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Ian Roussel is to custom car building what Bob Ross is to painting!
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Shoot them an email and see how they respond. Ask for a phone number to talk to someone to see if they’re worth doing business with. They might be a new start up still getting their feet wet!?
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Well, FedX delivery guy put my 69 chevelle kit right in my hand! Happened to be doing yard work at the time he came by!?
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He also played a pretty good Lt. Sulu in the fan based YouTube production Star Trek Continues. Any Star Trek fans of the original series will get a kick out of this “what if they did another season of episodes before they got canceled” offering! It was made around 2013 by die hard fans with fan funding. It also stars James Doohans son as Scotty! There’s also some cameos of other famous actors along the way. Won’t spoil it for anyone who hasn’t seen it yet!
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Just now, RichCostello said:
That's how I do it too. Prime body, inside and out, spray the headliner and when dry, wet sand body, mask off headliner, and paint the body.
This really makes more sense considering how much work goes into finishing the exterior and how much easier and smaller the area that needs masking is on the interior.
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Same thing at Harbor Freight
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That little motorcycle is one of my grails! Hot Dog! Can finally score one for not a small fortune and not resin!
Oh, and the Imperial could be used in a small chase scene diorama with the 27 ford T police car! -
I think he might be asking about the tank pressure not spraying pressure. I have an old Sears Craftsman pancake compressor that has a regulator that shuts off the pump at 125 psi. If that helps. Can paint at 15 to 20 psi for a couple of hours which is usually the limit of my paint sessions.
l’d be careful about making your own pressure vessel though. Unless you know what you’re doing, it could be a bit dicey!
If you really need to store air, Harbor Freight sells a separate air tank that can be filled for off site use. For the price it may be a safer option.?
Mineral Oil
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
Hi gang! Need some help. Can mineral oil be used as a lubricant with model plastics? I’m in the process of assembling the old Visible V-8 Engine with lights and motor! Built one as a kid and and barely got it to function! Fifty years later, I want to try again hopefully with better results! Instructions show using oil on areas that move (didn’t know that as a kid!) but does not say what type. I don’t want to go using just anything that would react and possibly craze or melt the plastic! Got a incomplete vintage kit and a new reissued one without the electrics for parts that I’ve been sitting on and decided to bring it to life! Recommendations will be appreciated!