VW had a sense of humor. Think about it...everywhere but the US it was a Golf Caddy. Pretty cool resin transkit from C1 Models available for the Revell Rabbit/Golf. Had a blast building it. http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rrbbdbfqkgsgwbdxdksdtwdfsd,vi/wttkwwbdqxwfqgwskgbxbsfgbftkk/8/10258/13927406/IMG_4350-vi.jpg
Bingo. Like it or not (I do not like it), but Fujimi ruined the short tail and perhaps the entire plastic F1 market for the time being. I endured the pain building 4 Fujimi short tail kits. Even if Aoshima offered their own short tail, not sure I'd get it at this point. I had no qualms selling the two Fujimi long tails recently, I don't really even like long tail F1's. They're iconic cars, they're not going away or down in popularity, and prices of real ones are getting silly insane. If Aoshima has done any development on the F1 short tail, they should just sit on it for a few years, keep the development on the down low and then wow the world with an F1 LM and a few race cars before Fujimi can hurriedly reissue their turds.
Here are my shots. Had a great time, 6 of us ACME members attended this year. Most of us had an epic adventure, flying in/out of LA, going to Petersen Museum, driving around Hollywood/Westwood/Beverly Hills/Santa Monica/Malibu and also driving up Highway 1 from Morrow Bay through Monterey, going to Blackhawk and Canepa Collections, and of course the NNL West. Funny to see the cars in Silicon Valley; almost half of them electric and/or hybrid, and even had an autonomous Google pod car pull up next to us at a light coming back from dinner in Mountain View. The automotive landscape to be seen in coming years in the rest of the country... http://public.fotki.com/grdeyed/model_car_shows/nnl-west-model-car/
I had the same issue w/my Grex Tritium TG. Once I replaced my O-ring (and bought spares), I began to take better care of it. First I make sure the needle always comes out of the airbrush and is inserted back into the airbrush from back to front, so the blunt cut-off end never goes through that O-ring first. Second, I always use the blue needle lubricant applied to the needle in the general area it goes through the O-ring. This helps to protect the O-ring from the solvents and from the friction of the needle itself going through the O-ring. I have had zero issues since replacing that first O-ring, but I'm also careful. If it becomes an issue again, I'll have to source better O-rings. So far, not necessary, and I use the brush a lot.
X20A is only for acrylics, it works fine for Tamiya acrylics, but you can also use isopropyl alcohol and sometimes even cheap automotive lacquer thinners to thin Tamiya acrylics. The lacquer thinner works for acrylics and decanted lacquers. You can also use Mr. Hobby/Gunze Mr. Color Thinner, it's nearly the same thing as Tamiya, and you can order big 400ml. bottles of it online, it lasts longer. And if you have any issues with blushing, or spray in cold conditions, you can get Mr. Hobby Mr. Leveling Thinner to slow the drying time. I use the Mr. Color thinners all the time. I find all paints seem to spray a bit better after decanting w/a few drops of thinner.
If you look closely, that's only 3 different wheels, but they are each offered in 2 very different finishes. Regardless, what's shown on the prototype is not prototypical of any factory wheels, and they look tame compared to the real wheels on the real car. Plamoz really does nice wheels, I have them on my i8 and soon on my 918 Spyder. I also have their ZR1 Cup wheels that also replace Revell's lame/undersized wheels in that kit.
Decanting and airbrushing TS-13 is a piece of cake, and you will get better results than spraying X22 acrylic. You may want to get some of Tamiya's lacquer thinner (notable by having a yellow cap), I add a few drops of the thinner to decanted TS paints, just seems to run through my airbrush better.
My i8 is completely curbside, and you cannot tell whatsoever. I saved a lot of time not building stuff that would never be seen. I just can't quite figure out what I'll do to attempt to make the 918 engine cover look like mesh...the decals are gold! The mesh is black! Sigh.
Revell has been designing glass to install from the outside like this for several years, long before Moebius. Moebius needs to learn from Revell, not the other way around, when it comes to this style of glass.
Formula 560 is perfect for the job, epoxy is total overkill. F560 is exponentially stronger than Elmers, and it's thicker. I use it on nearly every model, and yes it can and will fill gaps. Love it, amazingly good product. It's also easier to wipe away excess than epoxy. Epoxy has its uses, but again total overkill on this glass, once the edges have been dressed and modified to fit the body, there should be no gaps.