I had the same issue w/my Grex Tritium TG. Once I replaced my O-ring (and bought spares), I began to take better care of it. First I make sure the needle always comes out of the airbrush and is inserted back into the airbrush from back to front, so the blunt cut-off end never goes through that O-ring first. Second, I always use the blue needle lubricant applied to the needle in the general area it goes through the O-ring. This helps to protect the O-ring from the solvents and from the friction of the needle itself going through the O-ring. I have had zero issues since replacing that first O-ring, but I'm also careful. If it becomes an issue again, I'll have to source better O-rings. So far, not necessary, and I use the brush a lot.
X20A is only for acrylics, it works fine for Tamiya acrylics, but you can also use isopropyl alcohol and sometimes even cheap automotive lacquer thinners to thin Tamiya acrylics. The lacquer thinner works for acrylics and decanted lacquers. You can also use Mr. Hobby/Gunze Mr. Color Thinner, it's nearly the same thing as Tamiya, and you can order big 400ml. bottles of it online, it lasts longer. And if you have any issues with blushing, or spray in cold conditions, you can get Mr. Hobby Mr. Leveling Thinner to slow the drying time. I use the Mr. Color thinners all the time. I find all paints seem to spray a bit better after decanting w/a few drops of thinner.
If you look closely, that's only 3 different wheels, but they are each offered in 2 very different finishes. Regardless, what's shown on the prototype is not prototypical of any factory wheels, and they look tame compared to the real wheels on the real car. Plamoz really does nice wheels, I have them on my i8 and soon on my 918 Spyder. I also have their ZR1 Cup wheels that also replace Revell's lame/undersized wheels in that kit.
Decanting and airbrushing TS-13 is a piece of cake, and you will get better results than spraying X22 acrylic. You may want to get some of Tamiya's lacquer thinner (notable by having a yellow cap), I add a few drops of the thinner to decanted TS paints, just seems to run through my airbrush better.
My i8 is completely curbside, and you cannot tell whatsoever. I saved a lot of time not building stuff that would never be seen. I just can't quite figure out what I'll do to attempt to make the 918 engine cover look like mesh...the decals are gold! The mesh is black! Sigh.
Revell has been designing glass to install from the outside like this for several years, long before Moebius. Moebius needs to learn from Revell, not the other way around, when it comes to this style of glass.
Formula 560 is perfect for the job, epoxy is total overkill. F560 is exponentially stronger than Elmers, and it's thicker. I use it on nearly every model, and yes it can and will fill gaps. Love it, amazingly good product. It's also easier to wipe away excess than epoxy. Epoxy has its uses, but again total overkill on this glass, once the edges have been dressed and modified to fit the body, there should be no gaps.
I haven't uploaded my photos to my Fotki account yet, but if you are on Facebook they're posted on the ACME Facebook page which is a public page. I don't think I saw your car in Tom Valenta's album. SCMA Spartanburg Show
Looks great, love that blue. I finally built mine late last year after stripping the 20 year old paintjob that failed and I put it back in the box for another day, luckily the new paint came out well. Now these kits are rare, hard to find, and pretty cool to see built! I have fresh decals to build the BTCC wagon I've never started but will build this year.
Thanks for the info Bill! Unfortunately it comes after I painted my Ventura, a kit that I was pretty excited to get. Word to the wise...do NOT paint this model before fitting the glass! I'm not at all happy w/the glass fit. It's embarrassing and aggravating. I got the front to fit (removing material from the glass and completely getting rid of the lower channel that holds it up too high), but the rear glass is even worse. Glass too big, channels too shallow...not good. Back in the box it went so I can work on something else that is hopefully more satisfying. I really don't want to have to start w/a new body, new paintjob, new kit to get the results I want.
My Hobby Search MX5's are in-transit (I had ordered them August 25th, the pre-sale price included 15% discount, but the original estimate of 2800 yen retail went to 3200 yen). Hobby Search had them available for pre-order months ahead of HLJ. I think I read that Tamiya was putting the screws down on HLJ, that their overseas distributors were complaining that their prices were too cheap. We heard that there is 2 levels of Tamiya distributors in the US, so every middleman means more $$. When Tamiya stuff started going scarce at HLJ, the next step was the discount went from 20% to 5%. It has since gone to 10%. My pair of MX5's cost me 8250 yen including express shipping from Japan, just under $34 each...which is quite a nice discount vs. $49 retail plus sales tax plus gas $ here if paying full price at a hobby shop.