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tsroark

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About tsroark

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1:24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Iowa
  • Full Name
    Tim Roark
  1. Well, so far I am planning to use the detroit diesel(I think) that was attached to the frame it'll sit on. It will have side tanks, haven't thought about exhaust routing yet. Other wise I haven't gotten much more done yet, I've just been working getting the floorboards and doorjambs done so I can move on to the crew part of the cab.
  2. I just realized this was posted in the big rigs section, I did mean to drop it in pickups. Not sure if it matters or not as it is firmly in between.
  3. Hello, I don't post projects often but figured this one was off to a good start I would show it off. Started off as just a 3/4 ton flatbed build but has since grown into a crewcab sitting on a big rig chassis with a custom hood and fender flares, I will trim the chassis to standard 8' bed length, Probably 4x4. Even though it is on a truck chassis I want it to sit at a useable bed height, not in the air. I'm hoping to have the cab roughed in the next couple days.
  4. I figured that mixing the flake medium into the paint would cover the flake. I guess I didn't realize clear was available with flake. I will look into that. I am planning on using the standard "pre desert/digital" green/brown/black pattern. Looks like there are a few ideas floating around, I will have to do some experimenting to see if this works at all.
  5. I know this sounds crazy but bear with me. I want to do a camo paint job with metal flake paint. Full on bass boat style metal flake. I have been searching but can't find much on my own. Understandably I can't find any manufacturers that produce standard ultra flat camo colors in a metal flake flavor. Can I make it myself? I was thinking of hiting a chunk of alluminum or yellow brass with the drum sander to make a powder to mix into a clear coat and air brush on, or dust a wet color coat with and clear over. I think if I mix it into the color it will just look like chunks of crud in the paint. I know the clear coat will have to be pretty thick so the metal particles don't leave bumpy or rough patches. Will this work? Or does anyone have a better solution? It will be a few days but I was going to do some expirimenting anyways. Thanks guys Tim
  6. This will be pretty good. Are you gonna do miss matched paint with the later bed?
  7. First, I have complete faith that this will look horrible. But it will be quick and different. I acquired this GM van body through ebay for a few bucks. I bought it because it is not a commonly seen vehicle model and it was cheap. It is extremely rough, the body is filled with expansion foam and is a very thin casting so I'm not sure anything serious can be done. It is going to be an extreme off-road lowrider. Yes, it has 44" tires and will be equipped with every off-road accessory I can think of and fit. But the owner is extremely afraid of heights so it sits 10" off the ground. The fenders will have to be cut almost to the windshield just to tuck the tires under. Depending on how it looks I might add in some lowrider and tuner design ques with some kind of wide body fender flares and body kit for even more ridiculousness. On to the pictures Tires will be between the desert dogs or the much larger swampers. Have to wait until i have the wheel wells cut out, but I am leaning towards the swampers. Because why not. If it cant be overdone then why do it at all The body is cast filled with foam and I don't have the patience to remove it, so chassis detail will be down to axles and skid plates. Tim
  8. So there were no ford factory lights then, or regulations? That would explain why I have found images of heavy trucks whith no lights.
  9. Hey guys, I am finishing up a 50 ford. Were cab mounted clearance lights ever offered or required then. I am having trouble finding any pictures of anything that early with indicators to go by. I suppose I could just scratch something similar to an 80s truck.
  10. Thats gonna be pretty cool, are you going to hit the front fenders with the sawzall?
  11. Thanks, I will definetly see about ordering these.
  12. Hey guys, I will be starting a scratch building project here shortly. I plan so far to do a k30 long stepside. I own a chassis manual so I am working with full dimensions. I just have to scan and resize to 24th scale. The manual lists full dimensions for everything from the el Camino/vans/pickup/sub/blazer/delivery up to 1 ton. Materials used will be mostly brass sheet. Maybe some roof flashing I have on hand for flat panels. I guess I am mostly looking for some small scale metal working references. Something like a cheat sheet for how to make a certain kind of bend or curve. The squarebodies are not to complicated to beging with but being my first major scratch like this it would be nice to have a guide.
  13. Hello, I ddon't post much butwanted to show off what I've been building. It is a 1950 Ford pickup that has become a mashup of parts. It has a flathead v8 with I think a c6 trans paired with a Chevy 205 (?, parts box) dana 60/70 axle pair. It does have a tilt front end and flatbed. The body has been carved, filed and sanded to resemble dents and painted with craft acrylics. I did cast the tires myself, they are certainly not high quality but I think I can make them work for this application. I think I used the wrong silicon to do the mold and need to change the parting line location or add a 3rd part, I'm calling it a learning experience. Most of the major stuff has been finished, its just down tolots of little things. The paint is evolving as it goes so it could end up green or purple by the time I finish. Thanks for looking Tim
  14. Thanks guys, I have gone through google and found a few paint chip books. I will check the websites you posted. Although I think I'll be better off just trying to mix something going off of "lime green that looks like gold"
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