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chaves pah

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  • Content count

    3
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About chaves pah

  • Rank
    Looker

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/24 and 1/32

Profile Information

  • Location
    portugal
  • Full Name
    marco paulo fialho ferreira chaves
  1. Hi afx, following your works is really a pleasure for me, your Cobras, ahh!  Now I found one of those poor ARII 1964(?) GT FORDs and started to follow your article about it, but there are some images that do not match with the text... " The modified front suspension is on the left, notice how much lower the upper A-arms are" actually show a front view of the car on the floor jacks , not the chassis... next, " I had to modify the wheel upright to accept this lowered A-arm position. Fortunately the brake detail is not visible through the wheel" is followed by the same front view of the car on the floor jacks again... later, "I'm very happy with the chassis fit so far. Well see how the rear suspension goes" there is no image about it... well, some "numbers" about the changes made in the suspension would be very helpfull for us... did you ever think about making some body cuts to widen it enough to cover the wheels? (that would be a real chalenge!)... Did you finish your FORD at all? I (we) would like to see it!

    thank you very much!

    1. afx

      afx

      I didn't not finish this build.  I decided converting a Fujimi GT40 body would be a better choice.   

    2. chaves pah

      chaves pah

      Ahhr... that is high treason... I did not wait until seeing your finished model and, taking a look on both the GT40 and the MkII bodies, that is a huge lot of changes, as they are much wider ( and after all, if things go wrong it is better to destroy the ARII kit than a FUJIMI one)... so I decided to try to modify the ARII body, by widening all the mudguards; for now the front ones are going fine: some plastic sheet (about 2,5mm) over the wheel arches, and then pulling the headlight houses out and aligning it with the new enlargements; and now I will fill the resulting gaps in the front body; by the photos the gap between these headlight covers and the front brake cooling ducts is two or three times bigger then the ones in the original kit. I am taking some pictures at each stage and I will post it  after the changes are made...

      Thank you for answering so fast, afx!

    3. afx

      afx

      Would like to see your project if you would care to share.

  2. Hi Jürgen, If it can help everybody, you in particular, I did buy a few years ago a resin W196 stromlinenwagen 1/24 body, a very crude one in fact made probabily by Resilient Resins, for sure made for slot racing purposes, as the wheel arches had to be "dremelled" to fit any rolling chassis, wich I am "tayloring" to sit on a Revell 300 SLR, so that is why I bumped in your thread about your wire wheeling metod that makes us breathless! After this, only UTOPIA... the back to front crossed wire wheels, such as the 250 LM ferrari ones... I will try to post a few photos of my stromlinienwagen soon...
  3. Well, thank you all three friends specially Art, as his method seems to be "the best solution" for now...I had been thinking for a while on using that teflon tape used on plumbing, but as it does not glue on the wheel, probably when puting the tyre it would sleep and uncover the plastic again...(would it glue to plastic with white glue?) Steven, you are a lucky guy! Well, you probably make only american made kits, and probably tyre and kit materials do "combine" with each other; Till now with me it hapenned with ESCI (Italian made) and with REVELL (Germany)... Thank you all for now
  4. It is the second time I found that the tyre I did put on its wheel to see how it matched with when I first opened the kit box ( ESCI Porsche 934, and REVELL Jaguar XKSS), when I opened it again to start the building a few years later, a nasty chemical reaction did hapen, melting the plastic of the wheel, which remains soft for ever...