It would be easy to make curbside. You would need to assemble the engine block/transaxle, heads and valve covers as well as the injector stacks since they are so prominent. You could leave off all the belts. hoses, wires, etc. The rear suspension builds off the transaxle so you would need to put in the suspension pieces. It would be interesting to see if you could just glue the axles onto the transaxle and attach the wheels to those. They are pretty stout so you might find that to be enough. Anyway, you could leave off 2/3 of the parts if you want to build it closed up.
Time for a do-over. Trying to replace all the lines and hoses has been frustrating. The vinyl in the kit is very flexible and when the instructions show gluing one end in step 2 and hooking up the other end in step 10, it is hard to see what lies in the way. Too often, the kit hoses are bent around stuff that you never would have imagined being in the way. The other thing is that I am determined to make all of the body panels fit around all of the detail parts and not have to leave stuff off to make the body panels sit down where they are supposed to be. The instructions actually say to leave certain parts off if you want the body to fit. So, I had a second incomplete kit and I decided to start over and instead of following the instructions exactly, I would work instead from the ground up so I could add all the detail parts as assemblies so that everything would fit as they should. First was to attach the bare engine block to the front bulkhead so the belts could go on first. Then the lower oil lines from the pump to the sump could be added.
The lower oil lines now can tuck in around the belts.
Big deviation from the instructions was to now assemble the engine and bulkhead to the belly pan. This allows me to add in the oil tanks, overflows, and fuel pump to the pan and plumb the lines from each. The position of the oil coolers that are attached to the roll bar can be established so the oil cooler lines can be added in their proper place. As each additional piece is added, they can be run so they don't interfere with the prior pieces or if necessary, old parts can be moved to make way. So now I added the oil tank and pump as well as the oil cooler lines and fuel pump.
The lower oil pump lines and return lines can now be put into place as well as the sump lines.
With the lower oil lines in place, I can now move up to the fuel system. First I cut the material from between the sets of stacks to prepare for some possible throttle linkage.
Next I drilled holes through the manifolds to be able to add throttle linkages. The jury is still out on how much I am going to try to add here but I wanted to be prepared.
I touched up and cleaned up the manifolds and added them to the engine block.
The feed and return fuel lines as well the the regulator lines can be run right alongside the intake manifold. I used both braided and hard lines here as seen in the 1:1 photos. This is one area that the kit parts are a pain. The kit lines are so big that they don't want to stay in place and don't like to not interfere with the upper engine cover and the seat back panel. Hopefully by using more scale sizes and keeping everything nice and neat, I can make everything sit where it is supposed to.
Here is the engine with the lower oil lines in place. Everything is tucked in close to the engine and bulkhead so hopefully this will aid in making the final fit work. All the lines shown are added all throughout the kit instructions after exhausts, and rear suspension is added. Hopefully deviating from the instructions will make everything fit better.
Now with the oil system in place, the engine area is hopefully neat and tidy. Next comes the exhaust pipes. These fit so poorly that I drilled and pinned the connections to the engine block. I'm still not 100% happy with them but i think it is one of those things that only I can see the issue, probably nobody else will see them.
Thanks for the compliments. I have had fun playing with some materials. One thing I have had fun with is shrink wrap tubing. It makes great plug wire boots and distributor cap boots. I found some shrink wrap tubing with a .6 mm inner diameter and a 2:1 shrink ratio. That means that the minimum inside diameter is .3 mm and the outside diameter goes down to around .5 mm, or 1/2 inch in scale. You can also stretch the tubing when hot to get it much smaller and thinner. For motorcycles this stuff is perfect for throttle and brake cables and can be shrunk to the handlebar mounts perfectly. I usually put a small diameter wire inside so I can bend it and it will stay bent. A note about shrink wrap. Most wraps shrink at 200-220 degrees F. Plastic melts at 300-330 degrees (it will get softer, but not melt at anything lower). Find a 200 degree heat source and you can shrink the wrap without melting your project. I have been getting shrink wrap through EC-Buying Technology Co., Ltd in China. 5 meters of .6mm wrap costs 77 cents. Look on EBay for ".61 mm coax". There are actually smaller shrink wraps available through medical supply places but it is VERY expensive. The wires here were done using shrink wrap. I like the distributor cap ones. I never liked the look of a scale distributor where the wires all sprout out of one hole. The plug boots are two pieces of wrap cut at a 45 degree angle and shrunk over a 90 degree bend in the wire. If anyone is interested I could do a short tutorial on how I made these in detail.
Miniature coax cable will give me three things. The outer skin is great for water hoses and radiator hoses. The braid is great for braided hose, of course, but the inner core wire makes beautiful brake lines and fuel lines (see the fuel lines on the engine pic above). It is tiny, pretty close to .3 mm (or a scale 1/4 inch). I usually use a thin wire in the middle of my braided lines so I can bend them as I want and the braid doesn't appear collapsed when it goes around a corner. I found coax that has an outside diameter at less than one mm and the braid, when removed and stretched gets down around a third of a mm, or 3/8 inch in scale. I don't have the supplier name right here, I will post it tonight when I get home. If i remember, 3 meters costs less than 5 dollars. Hex beads work great. They are sometimes referred to as "seed beads", Google "hex seed beads" and you will find them all over. I got mine from Fusion Beads. I got 4 sizes, #8, #10, #11, and #15. The number 15 bead is the smallest and scales out to around 3/4 of an inch. You can get them in all kinds of colors. I got them in silver and they look pretty good when painted with Tamiya red and blue clear. The are sold by weight and for $4.50 you get somewhere around 1300 beads. I figured it out and a 2 inch braided hose with 4 bead fittings cost about a penny. I also found a source for wire. The wire is the same that you get in aftermarket sources. My source had ten pieces, each ten feet long, in ten different colors for 5 dollars and change. I ordered three of them so for around $15.00 I got 300 feet of wire in ten colors. I will post the link for the coax and plug wire tonight. It was a U.S. company and their service was great. Thanks for looking
Time to mock up the body shell so I can make sure all the plumbing fits. After all this I want the body panels to fit correctly with all the wires and hoses tucked inside. I taped together the body and glued in some of the pumps and tanks with white glue so they can be disassembled.
Slowly I am building every pipe and hose and wire one at a time. It has been slow going. Once they are all done then hopefully things will speed up.
Thanks Randy. I was just starting to think that nobody was looking. It's funny that making stuff myself is so much more satisfying than buying aftermarket stuff. Aftermarket stuff is absolutely beautiful and better but when I think that I can produce a pretty darn good looking braided hose for less than a penny it pleases me. Again, thanks for the comment.
Time to start pulling some things together. I built a new fuel distributor body to replace the vinyl pieces from the kit. I used a small ring of styrene and drilled holes radially to mimic the real thing. I routed the fuel injector lines to the new distributor and glued them into place.
Next was the magneto. Unlike a distributor, a magneto usually has all the spark plug wires exiting from one side, generally on two levels with four wires coming from the top level and four wires coming out of the bottom level. I measured the width of a four wire set and found that a 2.5 mm opening would handle four wires side by side. I started by cutting a 2.5 mm slot into 2 pieces of styrene that were .6 mm thick. I sandwiched the two slotted pieces with a center piece of .010 in sheet to provide a partition between the two levels. I then mounted this on a piece of 4 mm sprue.
I trimmed and mounted this on the engine and routed the wires to the two different levels.
I painted the new magneto black and added a cap to it.
I think my hose idea will work out and since each one costs about 2 cents in materials, I'm happy. The center of the coax we removed looks just right for some fuel lines to the injectors. I drilled holes in the end of .030 hex rod and drilled out the injector tubes to fit.
a little gold on the end for contrast and then install then into the injector tubes
I agree that race cars are an ever changing canvas. I think the best you can do is pick a moment in time, or a particular example, and build that. I am using the excellent walk around from the British Racecars website: http://www.britishracecar.com/ScottHughes-McLaren-M8F.htm