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ClayK

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Everything posted by ClayK

  1. Junior Johnson #27 '61 Pontiac

    Finally finished up teh Junior Johnson Pontiac. I had started this one last fall, and ran into a few snags and put it aside. Decided to get it back out and finish it up. This is the Moebius Joe Weatherly kit.....decals are from Powerslide. Paint is Tamiya Metallic Red with Omni two part clear polished out. The basic construction of this kit is a breeze...but I had a terrible time wrapping it up. Mostly do to my own errors or from just rushing it. I wish I could have got a better fit of the front grill to the body. It isn't bad. But could be tighter. I also forgot the rear tail light covers and had to rip the body back off the chassis after it was glued on so I could install them from the inside. I've got another kit to build....next time I will spend some time on the bumpers and remove all the mold seems and then re-chrome them, or use Alcad. But anyway, it looks pretty good complete, and I was happy to get it done finally. Here's the WIP photos if interested.... http://public.fotki.com/ClayK/nascar_projects/junior-johnsons-27-/ Thanks for looking! Clay
  2. Junior Johnson #27 '61 Pontiac

    Thank you for the replies, guys! I've started prepping another body to build another one this Spring. It should go a lot smoother. Powerslide has done so many great decals for this kit, it's hard to stop after building just one. To answer the question earlier....I use a roll of white athletic tape for the floor insulation. Its about an inch wide I would say. I just cut it to length and press it down to the floor. Then I will lightly rub the dark gray powder from a Tamiya weathering kit across the high spots to give it some wear and stains. Clay
  3. '14 Austin Dillon DOW Chevy SS

    A quick somewhat box stock build using the Revell Snap Chevy SS kit. I added new side skirts, and a new front splitter from sheet plastic. Paint is PPG basecoat black and white, cleared with Omni 2 part clear, then polished out. Decals are from Powerslide. I'll do some mild interior detailing, and a few external details. Mainly I do these for paint practice, and because they look great once built up. I filled in the molded kit roof flap borders, and replicated them with Powerslide's new roof flap border decals. Clay
  4. top dragster scratch build

    Outstanding! Love that metal work Sherm!
  5. Hey guys, long time since I've posted here. Started this project a few weeks ago, and I hope to have it done by November. I've started a few of these full scratch built 1/16 dragsters and keep getting hung up on one thing or another. But so far this one is going pretty smooth. I drew up the chassis in Illustrator and made a scale set of plans to work from like I normally do with projects like this. The majority of the frame is 3/32 tube, with smaller rod for the braces. I know some like to only use solid brass rod for chassis, but I find by using tube I get cleaner joints because the excess solder will get pulled into the tube. Making for a lot less clean up. Here's the real restored car. I hope mine looks some where close to as cool as this one does. Here's the chassis so far. Big thanks to Chris S. and Tim H. for their help and guidance as I get going on this thing. Tim has been a big help with getting my brass work and soldering better. I've also been working on the front suspension. I bent the front axle from brass rod and tube. Small brackets are brass etch from Dirt Modeler. Front radius rod brackets are brass square tubing filed to the right shape and soldered in place. I also machined the steering knuckles and soldered the axles in place. The brass torsion bar mounts and aluminum plates were also machined. These will all bolt up with .8 MM nuts and bolts. And a quick mock up. Thanks to Chris for the front tires and wheels! Hopefully I can get the front end all finished up here soon. Thanks for looking... CK
  6. top dragster scratch build

    Awesome as usual Sherm. That clutch pack is incredible!
  7. I'm so happy to see you building the Goose's car John. You are tearing it up so far! Love the mock up shots.
  8. 1/16 Ed Pink "OLD MASTER" Dragster

    Finally got some time to take some pics of my front end progress. I ordered some stainless steel hypodermic tubing from Amazon for all the linkages. They slid right over the #1507 RB Motion rod ends. Right now everything is temporally held together with brass bolts. When I put everything back together I will make sure I get the right nuts and bolts on to hold it together properly. things are a floppy mess right now. Thanks for looking. Clay
  9. 1/16 Ed Pink "OLD MASTER" Dragster

    Thank you guys....I've made a lot of progress on the front suspension. Should have an update soon.
  10. Wildlife Racing, 1972 Top Fuel

    Nice job! Good lookin' dragsters.
  11. This one will be awesome! Great start already. I'm cheering for you Batman!
  12. You blow me away Tim.....unreal work so far! Clay
  13. Hopefully you guys don't mind me playing along with the rest of you. Love seeing all these Pro Mods getting built! This will be a fully detailed 1/16 Mustang Pro Mod. I'm doing it as sort of a fictional car again. At least the paint job, and the choosing of components. I'll try to make it as accurate and believable as possible, but not a replica of any certain car. I'm starting off with a resin '68 Mustang body from Flashpoint Resins. This is the third one of Terry's large scale bodies I've bought, and I think it is my favorite so far. It's cast well, and has some serious attitude and rake. Perfect for a Pro Mod! I've got a few ideas in my head for paint and graphics, and if all works out, it should be pretty cool. I'll also be using some parts from some other great folks. Jim from Micro Nitro is turning the wheels and other parts for me, and I'll be using plenty of brass etch from Dirt Modeler. I plan do to a lot of machining on my own as well. A BAE block, heads, valve covers and so on are all on the machining list. I'm basing my chassis off of an R2B2 design. After gathering as many pics as I could I started drawing the chassis plans in Illustrator. I work out all the kinks and measurements before I ever start cutting. Plans only get me so far, but they are a great foundation for a well built and accurate chassis. Here's my stack of photos to get started. I print everything out on glossy 8X10 paper and keep it right beside me as I build. Once my chassis is all drawn from the side, top and whatever else I need, I print those out and tape them to some metal sheet. This way I can use magnets to hold my parts in place as I work keeping everything in line, and flat. Something I learned from Michael at dirt modeler that really helps my chassis work. For this chassis I'm using .100 rod for the main bars, 3/32 tube, .080 rod and smaller for the rest of the bars. I start with the floor first, then the main hoop, then the upper frame rails. I've also started adding the first parts of brass etch as you can see. I'll also be using the dirt modeler dzus tabs where needed. Here's a quick shot of the chassis so far along with the FP Mustang body. I need a bigger photo booth. This thing fill sit up! I have got started on a little bit of machining. I decided I wanted to try the clutch can on my own. After laying out all the measurements first in the computer, and getting all my cut points established, I machined a new one from aluminum. Still needs detailing obviously. this is right as it came off the mill. It's drilled for some aluminum rod that I will slide on the tranny pieces later. I may chuck this back up and thin the flange down some. Haven't decided yet. For a bit of size comparison, that is my second version of Roger Burgess' Firebird chassis in the background. 1/24 scale compared to the new 1/16 chassis. My next goal is to update the seat, get my pedals and hand brake all worked out, and get the tranny mounts in. Then I'll finish off the rest of the cage, and get started on the rear clip. Thanks for looking! Clay
  14. Great to hear you had such a fun week at GSL. And congrats on the awards! I must say, I've spent the past few days going back to the start and going all through the build again. I had forgot some of the problems you had, and how you pushed through them and came out better for it. This model is so inspirational and impressive. It will only get better once get get into the wiring and finer details. Clay
  15. I don't know what to say anymore Tim. You just keep getting better and better. Some fantastic machining there! Clay
  16. WIP: 1/16 '68 Mustang Pro Mod

    Ah, yes...there was more building than photo taking those last few days before I left for Atlanta! The car is pretty well finished. I do want to add a few more things. These pics were about two days before I left. So it is even further along than these.... The paint is HoK Tru Blue pearl at the back fading into HoK Candy Cobalt, faded into black. Then I masked off the flames and put a base of white down, with a quick coat of pearl white over that. Then I airbrushed the yellow and orange. Once unmasked I cleared everything with a couple coats of Omni 2 part clear. After that cured for a few days I polished it smooth, and re-cleared it to even out the falmes and make everthing smooth. I added the decals, then hand bordered the flames and the "Problem CHild" with One Shot lettering emamel. Clay
  17. WIP: 1/16 '68 Mustang Pro Mod

    Chris I use Testors Acryl flat black jar paint for the hoses. More engine work....I used a Shapeways Lenco tranny. I made the blanket from medical tape, and the straps and hardware are Studio 27 seat belts. I scratch built the shifter and machined the shifter pots. Just need to finish off the air lines. I've also got more fuel lines on, as well as all of the throttle linkages. Just a few more things and the engine can be installed for good. Clay
  18. Pure Hell AA/FA

    That is awesome! Great detail, and flawless finish. Beautiful!
  19. WIP: 1/16 '68 Mustang Pro Mod

    Thank you guys. Been a busy weekend working on the pro mod. I've been banging away on the engine. I ran the plug wires....I used Pro Tech's 1/16 red wire into a Micro Nitro MSD mag. I made the valve cover boots from plastic. I scratch built a new oil pump from plastic, and a new fuel pump from a resin body, and sheet plastic. I added Scale Hardware bolts to the front over of it. I also made a blower belt guard from brass and resin and painted it plat black. The barrel valve is made up from 7 pieces of brass all soldered together, then bolted to the injector hat. I ran all the injector lines, and I'm ready to install the main fuel lines next. I also redid the valve covers again, and added bolt details to those as well. A few sitting in the car.... I also got all my window tabs soldered on. These are Dirt Modeler 1/16 tabs. I need to get the rest of the plumbing done this week, then get on to paint on the body! Thanks for looking, CK
  20. WIP: 1/16 '68 Mustang Pro Mod

    Thanks Joe. I've had problems with resin from both Flashpoint and Comp Resins. Whether it is messing up the paint after everything had cured, or sometimes you don't see the problem until after you put the paint on. Almost like the resin has a skin, and once you sand through that skin, the resin stays sticky no matter what you do. My Pistonator PS has issues like that. No lacquer primer or sealer seemed to take care of it. I'm hoping the epoxy primer will do it this time. Yes! That is the plan... Thanks everyone, I'm working away! Clay
  21. WIP: 1/16 '68 Mustang Pro Mod

    Thank you guys....I appreciate it. Small update. I've finally got the body work all primed. Big thanks to John Teresi, and DaveyT for the help on sorting out what primer I should use. Right now everything is covered in Omni 2 part Epoxy primer. It will give me a good solid base to work from, and hopefully lock in the resin body and keep me from having issues down the road. I still have a few small spots to fine tune, but for the most part the body work is done. Hopefully I can get some engine work done and get it caught up with the body. I am running out of time! Clay
  22. I feel for you Chris....I've run into that so many times. Very few people outside our little circle really seem to care for what we do. Every once in a while you will find someone that does, but I've been let down more times than I can count. Don't let it get you down though. Keep hammering away. You are doing some amazing work.
  23. WIP: 1/16 '68 Mustang Pro Mod

    Right! My fingers hurt just thinking about it!
  24. WIP: 1/16 '68 Mustang Pro Mod

    Thanks Chris! I apprecaite you commenting... Big hurdle cleared last night. If anyone remembers when I built my Camaro PM, I put off doing the headers until the very last minute. I dread making them! I have had it in the back of my mind I had to get these done for this car soon. I had started a while back by bending the turn out tubes. I decided the best way to do it was to make a set of plans. So I drew something up based off of the plans I used to build the chassis. I cut all four tubes for the one side from 5/32" brass tube. Then I cut four more matched to those for the other side. I laid them on my pattern and held them to the paper with super glue and magnets. I touched them with just enough solder to hold them together. Once all four were tacked together, I broke them free from my pattern, and sanded the ends of them flush where they mount to the flange. I had the aluminum chunk left over from when I did the pieces on my heads. So I chucked it back up on my mill and drilled them for the mounting holes and parted off two to use as flanges. I wish they were brass so I could solder them, but I had all the work done already in aluminum so I used it. The flanges were glued on, then I soldered on the Dirt Modeler tabs on each tube. Finally, I mounted them to the engine with brass rods, and added the turn outs. Those are tacked to the main tubes as well. I still need to clean up the excess solder. And drill for the sensor lines yet. But I was so happy to get this far in one night! Here's how it is looking at the moment. Here you can see my aluminum flanges. I'll add the bolt hardware after I paint everything. And mocked up on the car. Whew! Glad that is over!! Back to body work and more sanding.... CK