I love the old AMT kits too, and have been doing a lot of different things with them over the years...mostly salvaged gluebombs (though I've picked up some unmolested kits when the price has been right)
Interesting thread here. The more I think about it... According to one of the online ET calculators, a 200HP "full race" (NON-supercharged) flathead in a 1500 pound car (just barely possible to get it that light) could be in the high 11-second, low 12-second range, with around a 125 MPH trap speed. In '63, that could very well make it the "fastest car in town" (depending on the town) and it would easily "walk a Thunderbird like it's standing still". The '63 Bird was heavy, and probably only good for a mid 16-second 1/4 mile ET. The 1500-pound number is interesting, as in California in the '50s, a car that weighed 1500 pounds or less could legally run without fenders on the street...and there were plenty of roadsters that hit hit the mark, obviously. Getting a steel-topped coupe under 1500 would be more of a challenge. An aluminum-headed flathead weighs over 500 pounds all by itself.
Well, it's been a while. I've given her plenty of time to finish herself up, but it's just not happening. Guess I'll have to do all those fiddly bits I've been putting off myself. I made a decklid inner panel to give the impression of the real thing with the deck open. No, it's not particularly accurate. And I don't care.
Installed, with the seam buttered with Squadron Green to form a radius. No problem if it shrinks here. I'll fill and radius the center hole.
Also finally got going on drilling the distributor cap and valve covers for .015" wire. None of the commercial caps had exactly the look I wanted, and the ones I like were too big to snuggle in to the recess on the firewall.
No, but I'm working on a potential magazine article. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- With the edge of the decklid opening finished and fitted, she looks like this. Nice and tight, and more symmetrical than the kit-delivered scribed line.
I finally decided to go with parallel semi-elliptical springs all around, so I made up some spring hangers on the chassis, and started scratching a straight front tube-axle.
Also decided to go with a B&M Hydro-Stick, after making certain it would be period-correct.
Tube-axle coming along.
All the scratchbuilt springs (they will all get more leaves) and brackets / hangers in place on the chassis for fitup.
Made up a pushbar.
Gluing the body to the chassis with removable glue, to use it as a jig to get the centers of the axles in exactly the right place.
The song came out in late 1963, so add that to your period-correct interpretation. Obviously, nothing after that date could really make sense. Far as the "four on the floor" goes, a very likely gearbox would have been the post-1957 4-speed Borg-Warner T10. Introduced as the Corvette box, junkyard availability would have been decent, and it easily bolts to a flathead with the right adapter. To get the kind of performance the song brags about, the car would pretty well have to be built light (no fenders) and probably supercharged. An un-blown streetable flathead probably isn't going to make over 200HP...which can still be fast in a 1500-pound car. Wheels? I'd go Halibrand kidney-beans.
Geez...another one of those "looks" that screams "I know absolutely nothing about vehicle dynamics or engineering in general (and think I can completely disregard what the engineers who designed the dammed things recommend as safe and functional fitments) so I'll do this dorky setup just because other totally ignorant people do it". This is stupid. It has nothing to do with MY personal taste. It's just stupid. NOTE TO MATT: I'm NOT calling YOU stupid. If you want to build a model of this setup, that's fine. You won't be driving it. It's just anyone who does this in the real world is an idiot.
There's gazillions of bits of reference data available through Google on this subject. Here's one particularly good site. http://www.musclecardiy.com/drag-racing/drag-racing-warriors-grumpys-toy-1974-vega/
There are several problems with most of the repair procedures available to fix this, and I've tried them all and know what works from experience. Bondic, CA (superglue) and straight epoxy actually have very little structural strength. You can't just stick two ends of a small piece of plastic together and really expect it to stay fixed. The world just doesn't work that way. If you'll follow my directions here and really think the procedure through, you CAN achieve a permanent, stable repair. The first thing you need to do is to get the parts aligned correctly and hold them there. Do this by putting the "glass" in place and taping the broken parts securely in position, so that they actually FIT the window "glass". Next, you need to fixture the parts in place so you can do a good repair, and the parts will still be aligned correctly AFTERWARDS. This is where most people skip steps, and why so many tend to say "start with a fresh body because you can't fix it". You do this by very carefully gluing styrene "splints" to the outside of the broken areas with liquid cement. DO NOT let it get on the "glass". When it's completely hard, overnight, remove the taped-in window "glass. What you want to do now is "vee" out the broken ends on the backside, tapering the break gently from almost nothing to the unbroken thickness, and roughen up the surface with somewhere around 100-180 grit sandpaper. You're going to fill the "vee" with epoxy (30-minute epoxy at a minimum...5 minute just won't hold here), or CA, and some kind of fiber reinforcement. Read Snake's "fauxberglass" remarks, or use dryer sheets, very fine fiberglass (made for RC aircraft) etc. It's best if most of your fibers run in the long axis of the post, and you need to soak your reinforcement fibers thoroughly in whatever adhesive matrix you choose, and make it thicker than it looks like it needs to be. When your goo is completely hard or cured, you'll file it to correct shape, then remove your temporary "fixtures" and do the outside of the break the same way. If you do this CORRECTLY, it WILL work. Lots of effort? Yeah, but if you want good results, sometimes you just have to go the extra mile. Any other method is almost guaranteed to at least crack when you're handling the model after paint, during sanding and polishing. Non-fiber fillers like talc and baking soda that folks recommend also have NO structural strength. One good thing to use is "cotton flock". Mixed with a high-strength epoxy, we use it routinely in the sport aviation industry to assemble and repair plastic aircraft that can exceed 7 or 8 G.
It's a beautiful day here today, but I got chased out of my own house early this AM with blaring music coming from some kind of ethnic thing across the street in the parking lot of a mostly vacant little shopping center. The fact that there's an African DJ screaming in some language I'm not familiar with, playing mostly reggae, rap and Afro-pop doesn't bother me. My neighborhood is becoming more "culturally diverse" every day, and that's OK as long as folks treat each other with respect and common courtesy. What DOES bother me is the frigging music is loud enough to rattle the windows. I personally like jazz and classical and old rock, and if somebody was playing any of that across the street...THIS DAMMED LOUD...I'd be pretty PO'd too. If it's still going after dark, I'm calling the cops. Enough is enough. I don't blare the music I like so loud that the whole damm neighborhood is FORCED to listen to it, and I really don't understand why these clowns think THEY have a right to force ME to listen to THEIR carp.