Lotsa odd things are possible in the weird, wacky and wonerful world of electronics, but this one's got me stumped. TV remotes operated on RF (radio frequency) up 'til about 1980, after which they switched to being mostly infrared (IR) devices. Almost impossible for an IR remote to be able to talk to a car (though some early car-remote-controls did operate on IR too) but the clunky ones you refer to were almost certainly RF. Either way though, something inside the car would have to be capable of receiving a signal from the remote, and amplify that signal to the point where it could trigger the starter relay AND energize the hot-wire to the ignition coil. This assumes some things connected together inside the car that usually...aren't...and circuitry in the car that normally...isn't. Today's cars' remote key-fob door-unlock thingies operate on RF too, and some cars today have remote-start capability, so it's conceivable an old RF TV-remote MIGHT be able to communicate with one (though the key-fob signal is usually encrypted to some degree, making it difficult to spoof). But most old cars lack anything that could even detect a signal from a remote, much less do anything with it. It's possible the old Chrysler you encountered had been modified by its electronics-hobbyist owner to allow remote-start. A fair number of folks DID fiddle with making gadgets in olden times. Anybody here remember Popular Electronics magazine? Barring that, it oughtta be an upcoming episode on X-Files.
I have almost no resin, but I'd be interested in single-cab versions of each. But like gtx6970, I'm a real stickler for quality. Accurate scaling, symmetry, straight panel lines, things like that. No frame, no glass, no problem.
Though I've enjoyed being able to take some time off, I've also been a little apprehensive since I essentially worked myself out of a job the first week of January, when I finished up my part of the '47 Caddy build. The foreseeable future looks reasonably solid as of today, with the '33 Plymouth I did for Mills finally coming out of the paint shop (after almost 3 years!). I'll be doing the buildup, wiring harness and electronics in the client's facility, and I picked up a total re-wire / custom harness and FI-install on a '66 Chevelle ground-up pro-touring build, set up with FAST fuel-injection and a Dakota Digital analog dash. There's a '64 Corvette convertible (punched in the rear) waiting for me to do its fiberglass work and paint too...just have to find some shop space to do that one, as polyester glass work is nasty. Looks like I'll be eating for a while to come.
Thanks for the heads-up on the availability of the Heller kits of this iconic car. I've got a couple of the early Revell Roadster, which looks quite good in proportion / line. I also bought several of the Aurora / Revell / Monogram kits, based on the beautiful box-art renderings...and having no idea how horribly distorted the actual kit-bodies would be. I'd assumed that the Revell / Monogram boxing implied that the contents were derived from the first Revell offering...the good one...and was very disappointed when I saw how poorly the Aurora kit designers had "interpreted" the beautiful E-type lines (yes, I do think it's very beautiful, and the engine is a wonderful piece of classic mechanical design...but heavy). The Aurora / Revell / Monogram kits I have left will only ever be donors for other projects, and I've been hesitant to build the virgin first-issue Revell versions up til now. The Heller offering will at least get me a nice E-type in the to-build-someday lineup.
Bike racing isn't my field of expertise, by any means, but I know there have been some structural failures of carbon fiber frames that sustained light damage previously. The brittle nature of carbon in a resin matrix also makes it susceptible to failure caused by what look like fairly insignificant nicks. Carbon doesn't fatigue like metal does, but a small impact-crack in the resin can travel completely through a frame tube, and it's not necessarily obvious. Once the fibers are no longer supported by resin, they fail. Building a heavier carbon part somewhat offsets this sensitivity to minor damage.
Whoa !! You can do the press thing with the clamps you have here...It looks like the one on the far left should have enough height. Support the tire with a ring of PVC pipe, and press the wheel through it using the screw (with an appropriate round washer to feed the load evenly into the wheel). You may need a taller C-clamp to get everything in there, with the end of the clamp under the bench, of course, but it ought to work.
Great idea, Steve. What would work even better (if you have a reloading press) would be to make up a mandrel that would support the tire, and another one to support the wheel. You could then put slow and controlled pressure on the thing, watching all the time. If you have w workbench you can screw something to, you could make up a little press to do this job from a couple pf lengths of steel stock, some bolts, and a door hinge. Kinda elaborate, but if you really want to save the wheels AND the tires...
Exactly. I pulled a '53 off the shelf and opened it up, tried the same thing just now. Though I didn't glue it, I taped the center and ends of the frame to the "glass" very carefully, then fitted the mocked-up assembly to the body. This seems to be the hot setup, and will correct the poor fit at the ends of the frame to the body as well. I also checked my '57, which uses different windshield frame and glass tooling. It fits well, as is. Perhaps it was corrected in later issues?
X2. Just a thought...I've found that this hobby and the many models and supplies are like the best of all possible friends in some ways. They'll wait indefinitely for you to deal with what you have to deal with, they don't get impatient or demanding, and when you have time for them again, their presence in your life is as rewarding as it ever was...on whatever level you prefer to enjoy them.