My bad. I have the stocker on the shelves...thought I had a custom too, and had compared. The custom version box art does indeed appear to be somewhat lowered. Still, to lower either of them more is straightforward.
When these work, they're great, but they can be finicky. If it's brand new, and the liquid cement you have is in a container that's deeper than the needle, don't cover the end of the tube. Just let capillary action fill it to the level of the fluid in the cement container. It may take a few minutes. Some of these came with a little plastic squeeze-bottle with a fatter needle that will fit in the open end of the glass tube. Squeeze the air out of the bottle, put the tip of the needle in the tube (with the smaller needle of the tube immersed in your liquid cement) and release the pressure on the squeeze bottle. As it re-inflates, it should draw cement up into the tube. The tips can get clogged very easily, as dissolved plastic may wick up into the needle as you use it. To keep the needle clear, you really need to keep the needle immersed in cement all the time. That also poses a spill hazard, and allows your cement to evaporate quickly. I made a special top for my cement bottle that seals against the glass tube when not in use, and put the whole thing in a larger container to avoid knocking it over. If the needle DOES become clogged, it's usually close to the tip. Scoring it 1/8 or 1/4 inch back from the tip with a hard, sharp blade and snapping it off clean is the only way I've ever found to clear a needle. If you fill the glass tube too high, it can also tend to drip cement on places you don't want it. Experimentation is key. As I said, when these work properly, they're great...BUT, because they can be a real PITA, I've pretty well phased mine out with very fine insulin syringes. A friend of mine is diabetic, so I get them free, only used once.
Rob, as you say, it's just a different mindset and probably has a lot to do with what you've been exposed to during your life. Railroad modelers have been building exquisite brass locomotives and rolling stock since the early days of the hobby. I first encountered these when I was a small boy, and was simply awestruck by the craftsmanship, which can be almost unbelievable. Many RR brass models get painted and used, but there's another segment of the hobby that keeps them in brass to show off the work. These may be scratch-built by individuals, or series-produced, usually in the far east. Vintage Japanese and Korean brass RR models can be breathtaking. I would suspect Pete's work shown above is intended to be left in metal, to show off his craftsmanship...quite understandable.
Exactly. Left-click the IMG box. It will 'flash" momentarily yellow and say "copied". Then it returns to normal. Go back to your MCM thread, put your cursor where you want the photo to appear and do ctrl-v, as Jim said. A code string appears in the thread. When you enter "submit reply", the photo appears in the thread.
Photobucket-stored photos work here for me exactly the same way they've worked since 2012 when I joined. Firefox back then, Chrome now. Copying pix from online sources also works the same way, for me. There have always been some web images that won't copy directly here for one reason or another. To get them here, just save the image you want in your own "my pictures" or whatever you call it in your computer, then put the image in Photobucket (or other host), and re-copy it here.
There are many 2-part, catalyzed polyester-filler ("bondo") products made for real cars that will work perfectly for your application. This one is about the smallest amount that's commercially available, found in most auto-parts stores. 1/8 to 1/2 inch fills can be made without worrying about shrinkage, because the stuff cures through chemically, not by evaporation like the one-part fillers.