Sprayed a heavy coat of this, put it in a Ziploc storage bag, and two days later washed most of the old goop off with hot water, toothbrush and Comet. Be SURE to wear rubber gloves when using the oven cleaner, and safety glasses too. NOTE: The Easy Off works very well on enamels, not so good on lacquers, and won't touch many real automotive 2-part urethane clears.
Got some work done over the past couple days. Some steps forward, some back, cumulatively a little progress. Cleaned up the old AMT body shell, sanded out a lot of the glooey spots, began priming in SEM self-etching green. Took the details off of an AMT firewall, split a gluebomb Revell '32 hood at the rear, narrowed it to fit the '29 cowl, and extended the sides downward a tick. Also reinforced the center where I'd cut and spliced it. The middle of the rear was filled with styrene to give me a straight line across the cowl joint, and the front edge was dressed straight too. I liberated the rear inner fenders from the Revell '29 side panels to use on the AMT shell here, and began scribing the joint on the cowl sides between the fuel tank and the body panels.
I decided I didn't really like how the Revell chassis fitted the AMT body (it's a little to wide to look right-on with the AMT '29 body) so I narrowed the rear a tick, and pinched the front frame rails rather a lot, by removing the crossmembers and bringing the rails in until they just graze the sides of a '32 radiator shell. The narrower front frame rails give the car a lighter, more graceful look. Then I chopped an AMT rad shell a couple of scale inches, and cut down the insert to fit it. The crossmember that carries the front suspension will be narrowed to fit back in, and raised between the rails to lower the nose more too.
I did some more shaping and fitting of the new hood, and I'm beginning to see the proportions I was after from the start.
All my Revell '31 sedan and woody kits have the same assembly drawing (with slightly different shading) and they both show the intake manifold attached to the head, which is correct...like your photo. There is also a Riley 4-port head conversion for the model A engine that was never kitted. Two-port in the foreground, Riley 4-port in background. As you see, the 4-port moves the intake ports to the other side of the head.
Yup. Old tool, lots of problems (looks like a 914 if you've only seen one in a blizzard and squint), same as the latest release (though the tires may be different), probably (99.99999% chance) it won't ever be re-tooled.
This is shot with rattlecans: Testors "One Coat" metallic (yeah, right) and Testors "wet look" clear. It took a little over one full can to get 5 coats of color on the thing (which were necessary to get full-hiding), lightly sanded between a couple of the coats because of minor trash. Then more than 1/2 a can of clear to get 3 coats, enough to wetsand and polish.
Don't. Really. Let it air dry. Life will wait. Baking styrene models can also cause the plastic itself to out-gas, making the paint blister. Most ovens don't really have very good temperature control at the lower settings anyway (many of them are somewhat inaccurate through the entire range too...which you'd have experienced if you cook much). AND...your food will taste like paint and plastic forever afterwards.
Copied from The Boat Owners Association of the United States website: http://www.boatus.com/boatTECH/articles/bilge-blowers.asp
"Venting your bilge of potentially lethal gas fumes is no job for a jury rig. Bilge blower units are designed and constructed specifically for their life in the trenches - electrical components are "ignition protected" to prevent sparking and causing the explosion that they are installed to avert, and the units are built to withstand over-heating and corrosion. However, most bilge blowers are NOT designed for continuous use. They are designed to be run for a short while only. If you run them continuously you may burn them up or even start a fire. There are continuous use bilge blowers available and if you want this (and it can be a very good idea) be sure you get one designed for this and wire it properly. Bilge blowers are available to move air in two ways - some units feature a squirrel cage configuration, while others favor a "tunnel", or "in-line" design which utilizes a small fan. The type you choose will depend on the space available and on how you plan to mount it. Both types evacuate air very efficiently, and are available in sizes which handle 100-250 c.f.m. (cubic feet of air per minute). The size you need is determined by the volume of your engine compartment (see below). The best plan is usually to have two blowers, one to blow air out and the other to suck outside air into the engine space. However great care must be taken that the outside air intake is free of CO and other fumes."