The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
I have a Chevy and a GMC of similar vintages, and as you say, they're exactly the same truck. Were then, still are. Sometimes it's just amazing the erroneous conclusions people can come up with. Must be another internet expert, with no actual first hand knowledge of much of anything, and not a lot of common sense. Sigh. Not being in sales myself, I long ago abandoned any pretext that "the customer is always right".
Over the years I've made several lines of one-off full-scale aftermarket fiberglass parts for real cars (mostly Porsches, Datsun Z-cars and fairly recently some tuners and Fieros). I did all the design work, the full-scale model work, the mold work, and the production. These things sold on average for several hundred dollars, and often, shortly after MY parts hit the market, I started seeing cheap knockoffs that were poor quality. I countered by laminating my own business card (with a secret little trick) under clear resin on the back side of my own parts...difficult for the average slop-jockey knockoff jerk to copy. This didn't stop the ripoffs, but it DID shut up the bozos who called me saying they'd bought my parts and they were carp. No laminated card, it just ain't mine. Next time, buy it from ME.
And AGAIN, just now. I tried to post the offending few lines HERE in THIS thread, and STILL got the 404 BS. No bad words, no communist subversive messages, no non-PC remarks, no secret codes...just refusing to take a simple few-line response. So...there's something in the response that's triggering the 404 message. How truly odd.
He mentioned that he uses the dental material to make molds for vacuum-forming clear parts, as it doesn't have the grain that wood molds would have. Plain old bondo would work quite well in that application too. He also mentions using clear acrylic material (towards the end of the video) to repair cracks in a vac-molded canopy, and to create additional contours on clear parts. "Styrene monomer" you mention is a large component of polyester resins (for fiberglass and the glue in bondo) and shouldn't really be inhaled or handled. Today's dental "acrylics" are intended to be used in somebody's mouth, can even be cast in-place in the mouth under certain circumstances, and are essentially non-toxic when cured and of relatively low toxicity when wet.
Thank you for the link! I've been doing similar edge-filling and reinforcing for years...but using expensive aircraft-grade epoxy and microballoon that has to be mixed on a gram-scale. My technique is slow, takes hours to cure, and is generally a real PITA. Thanks to this video, I have a great new alternative.
I should have said "metal' tubing, but I assumed it would be self-evident. My bad. Styrene tube thinned that much will become too weak to handle further. Even brass or aluminum tube will have a wall-thickness that's out of scale...which is why I suggested thinning the tubing edges from the inside, easily done with a small round file, or a tight little roll of 180 grit sandpaper.
Remarkably well thought-out and integrated design work. Everything looks like it belongs together, and that's rare these days even on real cars. Exceptionally clean fabrication too, all the way through.