While the lion thing has everyone all hot and bothered, how many of you are aware that the Chinese trade in poached black-market body parts of endangered species for their medicine, and that the recent trend is hoarding of tiger and other animal parts as "investments" ? Story here...and this is nothing new... http://www.takepart.com/feature/2015/03/24/china-endangered-species-banking-extinction-poaching-elephants-tigers-rhinos
This is a conversion i've been wanting to do as well. I've collected several reference photos of the 800 cab, and it's pretty obvious the fenders need to be widened outboard of the grille opening, as well as having the wheel openings opened up considerably. The width of the grille appears to be the same, judging from the relationship of the headlights to the hood shut-lines. F-100
This is also the "wet-look" 1834 product, again not sanded or buffed. I should have sanded the clear between coats to avoid the rolling of the edges on the door-lines. The product builds well, and I was thinking I could sand it a little flatter afterwards. If you're needing to use a lot of coats (this is 5), I'd recommend at least experimenting with the 28139. I'm on the way to my LHS to see if I can get some to play with.
The "ultra-gloss" is part of the basecoat-clearcoat 2-stage "Custom Lacquer System". #28139. It may possibly be formulated differently to use over the specific basecoats in the line. I haven't used it yet. My guess is it's a lower-viscosity than the "wet-look" product, because it's intended to be used over multiple basecoats. Lower viscosity would mean less film thickness on the final job, less likely to obscure and fill details. The "wet-look-clear" #1834 is part of the "One Coat Lacquer" system. I've used this product extensively, and it has a good build, needs about 3 coats to be safe to wetsand and polish (assuming it's not orange-peeled), and sands and polishes to a very nice gloss. Then there's "Gloss Clear Lacquer" , "all-purpose" #1261, with which I have no experience. Trying to find hard info on the actual differences can be discouraging. Here's the useless Testors website. http://www.testors.com/ This is the as-sprayed "wet-look" #1834 product...no sanding or polishing.
Lotsa guys use the clear or tinted plastic from big pop bottles. Other guys use clear or tinted plastic report covers, styrene from the hobby shop (if you have one around) or clear or tinted acetate. Depending on how much curvature your 'glass' needs to have, you might try this... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/40824-no-windshield-no-problem-drink-up/ Here's a thread about vacuum-forming compound-curve windshields from the pop-bottle stuff. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/58564-replacement-windshield-heat-formed/ I haven't done a finished big clear part yet, but the green from a ginger ale bottle worked great for this...
I've bought most of these over the years, thinking to do something like some of you guys have already built---detailed models with engines and interiors. Several of them seem to be great starting points for wild customs.
Just FYI, the Adblock Plus in question is an extension available directly from the Google Chrome web store for Google Chrome (and Firefox). I've been running it for a year and if anything, my system is considerably faster, because I'm not having resources hijacked to run all the idiot ad videos, animations and popups. While it's true that many free products are hiding trojans and other carp, it's not the case here. It is one of the most popular and highly recommended add-ons out there. But if you get it, DO make sure to get it directly from the Google site or adblockplus.org...not another provider or mirror...to make as certain as possible it's not bundled with bogus carp.
I think one key is if you're going to add a detail, try to get each particular detail scale-correct or don't bother. Plug wires as big as garden hoses, throttle-return springs and linkages that are way too big, and plumbing that runs off to the wrong place because the builder doesn't understand the function of the detail he's adding...these things only detract from a model. If you can't get it right, leave it off.