For Mr. Welda and others... There are several ways but this one always works. You'll have to have p-bucket AND the MCM forum thread you want to put the photo in open in two browser windows simultaneously. 1) Bring up p-bucket and open the photo you want to load into your thread on the MCM forum. 2) On the right side there's a menu called "share links". Left-click on the "IMG" one. It will momentarily turn yellow, to let you know it's been copied. (Sometimes depending on your browser, who's been diddling with the p-bucket functionality, or the phase of the moon, you won't get the yellow flash. In that case you MAY have to right-click on the "IMG" address and copy it). 3) Go back to your thread page. Position the cursor where you want the photo to appear, and press "Ctrl-v" ("paste"). The photo address will come up in the thread window. 4) When you hit "post", the photo will appear. OR.... If you're looking at thumbnails in a particular album, hover your cursor over the photo you want to put on MCM. 3 little white bars come up in the lower left corner of the thumbnail. Hover over the bars and another menu opens above them in the thumb. Left-click "share links" A big white box will drop down with another menu on the right. Left-click the "IMG" choice, which will flash yellow as above. Same steps 3 and 4 as described above.
Sorry to hear about your recent trials, Harry. The infection thing must really be bothersome. Hope it's finally in the past. Antibiotic-resistant infections are becoming a serious problem due to the over and misguided use of antibiotics, in everything from food animals to hand soap. Read some of the literature on the subject written by informed medicos. The "cloud" concept has had me uncomfortable since its inception. I don't like giving up so much control over my data and programs to an 'elsewhere' host. I know it's supposed to be the latest, greatest, hip, hot, happening thing and I'm surely once again seen as a fossilized Luddite for feeling the way I do, but your recent experience is exactly the sort of thing I was thinking would be prevalent.
Photobucket works for me in Chrome just like it always did (which is the same as it worked in Firefox). Upper photo direct from the "library" thumbnail (IMG option), lower photo opened and "IMG" option selected.
Two reasons for me to use metal for models. One, the strength is vastly superior to styrene. I used to build brass tubular slot-car chassis many (many many) years ago, and you just couldn't do it with any other material...though I did experiment with a real monocoque styrene chassis with promising results. Machining round parts...wheels, tanks, pulleys, etc. is a natural in aluminum, as noted. Right color. Polish it, it looks just like real metal, 'cause it is. Guys who work in larger scales have found that styrene won't support itself indefinitely if used for tube-chassis work, and again, brass is the material of choice (aluminum doesn't solder well, in general). Reason two, as stated above, if real metal tubing is bent well and used for exhaust parts, the thinness of the exposed ends is simply much more realistic than what's usually achieved with styrene, solder, or other materials.
Must kinda depend on who works on them. My '86 XJ-6 went over 25,000 trouble free miles after I put the 700R4 gearbox in it, for a total of about 125,000 now. Still have it, starts every time, only let me down on the road once.
I've come upon another little interesting glitch. Upon the site directing me to an "error 404" page and dumping my response, I logged out (yes, I HAD saved the response in MS Word before hitting the "submit post" button). When I logged back on later and tried to enter the saved response in the thread, when I clicked on "reply to this topic", my post that had been 'lost' came up in its entirety...leading me to believe this software DOES have the ability to save a post for editing or preview, if we just knew how to turn it on, or to access it intentionally. That said, when I tried to post the response, the site again took me to the "error 404" page without allowing the post to actually post.
As for me, I rent late-model vehicles frequently while I'm out of town. All the little toys are neato keen, but really pretty much useless from a mission standpoint...the mission being getting to my destination. I can read a map, so I don't need navigation. I rarely have to make or answer a call that can't wait til I'm stopped. I never need to look up something on the web while I'm in motion either. It can all wait. Unless you're law enforcement, actively working on a cancer cure, or are involved in some other critical science where every minute counts, I just don't get the perceived "need" for anything much beyond music playback...and hands-free phone capability for people who really NEED to be reachable every minute. I must just be too old to be cool, huh? And just for the record, I've had ONE minor collision that was my own fault in 50 years on the road (while momentarily distracted) and have avoided countless others because I was focused on the primary task of driving.
I've had "real" engine enamels badly craze some un-primered kit plastics. A barrier of Duplicolor primer has always worked for me so far. I also recently had a Pontiac blue engine paint give poor coverage on un-primed edges, trying to pull away and pool in flatter areas. Again, a properly scuffed primer coat solved the problem nicely. As always, TEST on the particular plastic in the kit you're working on before committing to painting (and possibly ruining) the model.
Both the '32 Ford Tudor and the 5-window are particularly easy ones to chop, as the B and C pillars come straight down. Many times, a chop on these in real-life, or in scale, involves lengthening the roof slightly between the A and B pillars, but this can be avoided by simply bending the lower A pillars back slightly, and the upper A pillars forward slightly, after the roof has been cut off. This has the effect of raking the windshield back more than stock, for a more streamlined look. Keep the B pillars in alignment when the roof is brought down, and lean the A pillars back as described above, and where you get a slight mismatch at the C pillars, lightly file and fill to shape. There's just no need to agonize over the 'step-chop' method on these body styles.