Revell '29 A...2 of them really. I have a very special '29 I've been putting off building for several years, and now that the Revell kit is out, I think it's gonna be the basis. Gots to have some of those other parts parts parts too.
You can always just say "no". I finally had to learn to do that without explanation when "friends" would continually ask me to look at, listen to, work on or advise them on their turd cars. There are two people on Earth whose cars I'll work on as a "favor", and they'd both do pretty much anything for me. And have. Everybody else gets "no".
Most of the V8 engines in '57 Ford original or restored passenger cars I've ever seen were red. The valve covers could be different from model to model...black, silver, cast-alloy. Silver air cleaner housings. In the F1 pickups, I believe the six was red and the flathead V8s were Ford dark greenishbluishgrayish. I've seen references to "bronze" colored V8 engines in these, but I've never personally seen one in the flesh.
Several answers have been close on this, but here's the rest of the story. This particular design of headers dates back to the "dry lakes" days of dual-purpose cars being built to drive on the street for transportation, and for racing to be able to uncap the megaphone-style header with only 2 or 3 easily-accessible bolts. Open headers usually make more power than having the exhaust running through restrictive mufflers. In the beginning, it wasn't about noise or stylin' and profilin'...running open pipes is about making more power (but of course, law-enforcement and average citizens prefer vehicles to be nice and quiet). These early-style "lakes pipes" give the option of power or relative quiet. The term "lakes pipes" evolved over time to also mean side-pipes (running down the running-boards or rocker-panels of bigger cars) that usually had caps on the rearmost ends too. And Tim, The model looks great. An out-of-the-box build was just exactly what we needed to see here.
Longbox55 makes a very good point. Another habit I've developed over the years...change your sanding water and wash out your water container between sanding grits. Wash the car body and your hands as well. I know this seems like a lot of additional messing about, but there have been times (on big cars too) where a piece of grit from a coarser piece of sandpaper has come loose and made a scratch when I've been sanding with a much finer grit. Changing out the water and washing off the model and your hands gets rid of anything that might scratch on the next successive step. And keep your sandpaper or pads CLEAN. A single drop of detergent in your sanding water will act as a wetting agent too, and may help to keep your sandpaper from loading up. When polishing, I'll complete an area about 1/6 the size of a credit card...about as big as the first joint of my thumb. Finish it, check for scratches and a nice clear gloss, and move on, overlapping into the next area.
Thanks for putting up the photos of the Lake Mead shoreline. That part of the world has always been one of my favorite places, and I was fascinated by Hoover Dam as a kid, read everything I could find on it. When I finally saw it, as an adult, it still blew me away. All that water in the middle of a barren desert has an otherworldly kind of beauty, and the dam itself is really something. It has its own very stark and functional beauty in its form, but there are striking decorative elements as well. Simply a great feat of engineering, especially impressive when you consider the time period it was built. I've been saddened for years that the lake levels are so low, and that overuse of the planet's water resources are having such a visible effect on some areas.
If you're still seeing scratches after polishing, it's because either you left deeper scratches in the paint that you didn't get out during your progressively finer and finer sanding, or you haven't polished enough. Many modelers tend to not put enough effort into the sanding phases. Each successive sanding step is intended to remove, entirely, the deeper sanding scratches left by the previous grit. Just lightly rubbing it around on the car isn't getting the job done. Polishing, unlike what a lot of folks seem to believe, isn't just "wipe it on and rub a little bit", either. Polishing is an ABRASIVE process, and its purpose is to abrasively remove the last of the 12,000 grit scratches and restore the surface to its original gloss. Do it all right, you won't see any scratches in the surface. We do exactly the same steps on the big cars, but only sand to 3000 grit or so, usually. Polishing the final 3000-grit scratches out is done with a machine, but the same advice applies. A cloudy, dull surface or visible scratches simply mean the job isn't done yet. Polishing is what brings the gloss back, not wax.
Great to see this going together with up-close shots. There's a lot to like about this kit. Obviously, the Buick finned drums and what appear to be Ford brake backing plates look very good. The dropped front axle is also a much needed, long overdue piece. It's made so that a correct-looking conversion to working steering won't be too hard. I already need at least one of these kits just as an under-car exhaust system donor. The nicely detailed and separate floor will certainly help in building a right-looking channeled car, and the front shock / headlight mounts, and the center crossmember / trans support look good. Thanks for taking the time and effort to show how this kit builds up.
One of the many things about this kit that DO appear to be very well done is the separate and fully detailed floor. This will be terrific for anyone who wants to do a realistically channeled '28-'29 Ford that looks as good from the bottom as it does from the top. The rear tires that appear in this kit are perfect for some vintage and period rod applications too. I've been looking for something like these for years.
As Miles said, it would surely add a lot of thickness to a part and obscure details, however...one thing I had thought about using it for (but haven't tried) is on some ribbed radiator hoses I had that were too small diameter for the scale I was working in. The ribbing on the hoses was too sharp, too. It occurred to me that dipping in that material might solve both problems.