The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
In all honesty, I guess I have to admit I've thought the same thing on occasion. Every now and then, a part will disappear from the bench and I'll spend several minutes looking for it...under tools, other parts, everywhere I can think of. I get up, go get a cup of coffee, come back, and the part is lying right there in plain sight. Same thing happens with my keys sometimes too. It MUST be a slight drift between lines of alternate probability, because I couldn't possibly be THAT doofy...could I?
Just for you, I took care and removed the deck clean, 100% intact, with no horrible edges. PM me the address of the SnakePit and it will be on its way in a day or 3. Polyvinyl alcohol, airbrushed. 3 coats minimum, shot wet enough to flow out slick. Specifically, the green-tinted PartAll Film #10 from Rexco.
Though I agree with the fender flares, it's hard for me to make the call on tailgate-versus rear doors. These things could be built either way. Zoom Zoom may very well be correct in the "tailgate" call, as the black handle does appear that it may be centered on the rear, as it would be on a drop-down tailgate, rather than offset to the right, as it would be on a door-equipped vehicle. Tailgate Rear doors. One thing to note: The vehicle in the original blurry photo appears to have a heavy class-three hitch under the rear bumper as well (like the "doors" photo immediately above).
I probably have dozens of them around that may get ground into other shapes for scribing lines, or odd cutting angles, narrow chisels, etc. Probably the best way to dispose of them is to put them in a steel can (old bean can, etc....just make sire it's steel) and when it's about 1/4 full, crush it and take it to the recycler.
Remarkably, I have found over many years that lost parts, broken parts, glue smears, paint problems and whatever else might be blamed on "gremlins" are invariably the result of my own ineptitude, poor organization, carelessness or getting in a needless hurry. Saying "the part broke" or "glue got on the windshield" to me is the equivalent of saying "the car wrecked". In my OWN case, it's ALWAYS "I broke a part" or "I got glue on the windshield". For ME, accepting responsibility for things that go wrong takes some of the frustration and mystery out of life, and makes it somewhat possible to avoid similar things happening in the future. Any of you may choose to view life differently, and that's OK.
Thanks for the interest and comments. Much appreciated. Mr. Snake, one of the reasons I elected to do a 'glass deck on this is so I wouldn't have to be careful about saving the original. I can make you an f'glass replacement however...now that I have the mold. Interesting to note: the shape of this decklid is entirely different from the shape of the Revell '62 Corvette deck, like they're from two completely different cars. Once again, I just didn't realize measuring and dividing by 25 was so very very hard.
PLEASE REMEMBER TO CONTRIBUTE TO HARRY'S CANCER FUND. THE ADDRESS IS : https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w IT'S EASY AND QUICK, HE STILL REALLY NEEDS OUR HELP, AND EVEN A LITTLE BIT WILL REMIND HIM WE CARE ABOUT HIM AND HELP TO KEEP HIS SPIRITS UP. Years back, I developed a way to make near-scale-thickness fiberglass body panels. Since I want to open the deck on this thing to show the battery and rear frame detail, I elected to make a mold of the rear section of the car, and make a replacement deck from that...while other phases of the build are ongoing. The material I use to give my parts sufficient strength is a specialized aircraft epoxy that has to be mixed on a gram-scale, and some extremely fine glass cloth. Mold in place on the tail...
I think in a lot of cases, the model companies just don't really care. If they were making parts-packs with some of the more popular kitbashing stuff available, it would be one thing. Copying them and re-casting would be direct and unfair competition, where the re-caster had no development or high tooling costs and was taking a free-ish ride on the backs of the manufacturers. But the manufacturers don't make single parts or complete engines or wheel-sets (etc.) readily available, and they probably don't feel like getting all hot and bothered trying to FORCE people to buy an entire kit to get a single part...which I often do anyway, by the way. But when a re-caster appropriates the hard work of a single individual who has mastered (scratch-built the first original pattern) his own parts and made his own molds of same, and the re-caster copies original parts for resale, it's another thing entirely.