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About jamesG

  • Birthday 07/28/1970

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    jacksonville fl.
  • Full Name
    James gaughenbaugh

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  1. Actually I just had an idea. I wonder if artist fixative would work? I'll have to do a spoon test.
  2. That's what I was afraid of but figured this would be the place to find out.
  3. Original decals were never clear coated and it has been stored in a box for years so it is lean. I have seen non clear coated decals become brittle and flake off and sharpie fade away over time though not sure why. A case is not in my budget at this time so I was hoping to use something I already have to protect it.
  4. I have an old model of the "Babylon 5" space station which is kinda heavy on decals and is autographed by several of the actors in sharpie and paint pen. If I remember correctly I also used a combo of paint types including krylon primer for main color and acrylic. So, what can I use to coat/protect it with that won't destroy it and will stand the test of time? Thanks in advance.
  5. Looks the same as krylon camouflage ultra flat.
  6. Sand the area slightly larger than the damage to create a feathered edge, tape off the roof, use a piece of card stock as a shield to help protect foil. Use a Q-tip to remove any paint from foil while it is still wet. Polish the area to blend everything together.
  7. Not sure about auto air but, I painted this computer case using duplicolor primer, wicked color paint a d reducer, and duplicolor clear. The colors where applied back to back with little to no dry time between them. One bottle each of paint and reducer will be enough to do several models. Only enough reducer is needed to give the paint the consistency of milk. Hope this helps
  8. A few things to remember are that good prep work is critical, the best paint job in the world won't matter if there are deep sanding scratches or "dents" in the body. Wash everything thoroughly with dish soap and water to remove any contaminants including oils from your hands. Where nitrile gloves when handling your model to avoid getting oils from Your hands on it. I like to freshly painted parts covered in an old cake pan with a loose fitting lid or my spray booth covered with plastic at least 'till it is dry to the touch to keep any dust off the fresh paint. unpainted parts is the only thing I dry sand. After primer it is wet sand only. Hope this helps you out.
  9. I'd say your paint and body work is spot on though zooming in shows you need a little work on masking around the rear marker lights. Otherwise, beautiful build.
  10. I was thinking old guitar strings but they are 1core wire with another coiled tightly around it and wouldn't be accurate. However, you could make your own using thin wire found at hobby stores and twisting them together. Hope this helps.
  11. Dude, you're killing me. To me the t50 looks gorgeous stock but the new concepts look cool too, particularly that boattail. I couldn't bring myself to mod a car like that unless I had another I could leave stock.
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