Monty

Unfortunately, due to circumstances I can't control, my '65 Galaxie won't be finished until long after you and Brutalform are done with yours, but I love the fact that you're comparing notes and looking for ways to improve your builds. I don't know if you saw what I posted in Brutalform's thread, but one of the biggest issues with this kit is the headlights. Someone at AMT really got the bezel area wrong as there are "rings" that are a scale 1/2 inch high around each headlight opening. As you can see here, the actual item does not have them. For the sake of accuracy, I recommend fully drilling the headlight holes out and getting rid of the rings. I look forward to seeing your future posts and following your progress.

Now ya tell me. Notice my missing arm? Thanks loads.

Weird. Don't see any offensive words or anything that should've triggered a block. I got around it by cutting and pasting some of the material, leaving nothing out, and it worked. Go figure.

The last time I looked into buying a Dremel (5 years ago?) I was surprised by the number of people who cautioned me that they generally spin at RPMs high enough to melt plastic, which to me kind of limits their usefulness. OTOH, some had gone as far as to wire rheostats into their Dremels so they could dial the RPMs down. Just curious if anything had changed, i.e. is there a Dremel that has a built-in control that will allow more low-end operation? Seems like they offered a 6-speed unit at one time. Would that obviate the need for a rheostat? As is probably blazingly obvious, I don't know much about these tools, so any helpful links to items of interest would be appreciated.

You've made a very generous offer, and I appreciate it, but I'm going to try and replicate your results using my Humbrol paints. I'm pretty sure they offer the same two shades as the Revell paints you used. For some reason, Revell doesn't offer their paints in the US or even Canada, IIRC, which is unfortunate for me 'cuz I'm a paint hog who'd like to own 3 of every shade ever made, and Revell seems to have some colors I'd really like to try. I will say, from seeing your pictures, they seem to spray very nicely. What did you use to reduce yours?

I've been trying to respond to a new member's posts and can't. Just curious why.

That's an amazing color you've created, and one of the many reasons I like using airbrushes over rattle cans. Too bad it's such a pain to get Revell enamels here.

Any idea what black they used on the block and heads?

BrutalForm, your post couldn't have come at a better time, as I am going to be doing a very similar project starting with swapping the R-code engine from the '60 Skyliner into an otherwise stock '65 Galaxie. It'll be billed as an owner's attempt to get more power as opposed to a numbers-matching factory product. (I like 'em, but I couldn't replicate those headlight covers at gunpoint). Here are a few areas where I wouldn't mind some input from you or the other members. 1) I'll be watching as you guys remove the exhaust systems from your cars. I know the RPMs are usually higher than what we want for plastic, but would a Dremel be worth using for knocking off most of the exhaust? If not, what would work best? 2) This'll sound a little silly, but I'm curious how much difference in color you guys are making between, say, the inner fenders and the engine itself. Some pictures I've seen indicate both are semi-gloss variants. If Ford used different shades, I'd like that to be evident. Glad to see someone else addressing the headlight issue. Why AMT chose to make mounting rings that rise above the bezels I'll never know. I do know they look ridiculous when you build it that way 'cuz I built my first one that way when I was 12. Maybe someone at AMT liked Bugeye Sprites... TIA for any advice, and I'll keep watching yours as I'm excited to what you can do with it.

Glad to hear your compressor and airbrush choices are working so well for you. I happen to like those cars in red with black stripes, but that gold you're using just pops. May I ask which specific paint it is (ex: Model Master #1161, etc). Gonna be following your progress, 'cuz I see a lot of potential here.

It just occurred to me that there might be a very simple solution to this problem: When I'm doing hobby stuff, I can just unplug the surge strip with the computer stuff on it. There's no need for them to be on simultaneously anyway, and I wouldn't be preoccupied with fire and safety issues.

Good to see you again! If memory serves, you used to sell a number of items that you had cast, and I was curious if you still had any of that stuff lying around. Seems like I was interested in some wheels and an engine part or two.

This: I get that there was no internet back in '82, but there were a number of Ford & Mustang magazines with color pictures. I'm not sure who built this box art turd, but he negatively influenced countless lazy modelers with that "goldfish" headlight treatment. Yes, the way the light hits that part of the grille can make it look lighter, but it's not silver, and definitely not chrome, yet even today, with every conceivable means of accurate research at our fingertips, we still get these builds with the goldfish look. I can't even guess at the number of builders I've PMed about this (as opposed to calling out the issue in their thread), including some who went above and beyond to achieve amazing detail on every other area, and every one of them told me they were happy with the result and couldn't be convinced that spending a short amount of time addressing a noticeable flaw would make a major improvement.

I recently moved into an older house. My hobby room only has one electrical outlet, and it's in the lower middle part of the back wall. Pretty much what you'd expect to see: I currently have a multi-unit surge strip plugged into the lower socket. (The plug skews sideways, so it needs to be on the bottom.) The strip itself has my computer, monitor, speakers and a desk lamp plugged into it. I want to set up my hobby desk on the other side of the room, but to be able to use my hobby lamp, compressor, and occasional other electrical items, I'll have to use another multi-unit surge strip plugged into the top socket. Big Important Question: Is this too much "draw" for one outlet? If so, what would you recommend?

Thanks! That color really pops on that car, and should also work well on a number of my projects.