Anybody got pics of their AMT '68 Shelby Mustang(s) that they'd like to post to show what all can be done with this kit despite its limitations? With the talent on this board, none of the "issues" listed should be difficult to overcome.
Like Mark, I thought they could've done better with the chassis. If memory serves, it doesn't have true poseable steering, although it wouldn't have taken a whole lot more effort on their part to get there. Depending on your abilities, you could modify their setup by finding a way to attach a tie rod etc. If not, the stubs and mounting points can be glued to simulate steered wheels. Seems like anything other than a skinny stock tire will protrude out past the wheel wells (front and back), and while that might've been a good "street look" back in the day, it doesn't look as realistic in 1/25 scale. Also, I'm not convinced the "stock" wheels in this kit are correct for a '68 Shelby Mustang. AMT's '66 Mustang coupe has a set of wheels that have the appearance of '68 Shelby Mustang wheels, but they lack the scale depth that the 1:1 units had, and are a mediocre substitute at best. There used to be an aftermarket wheel and tire combo you could buy that looked right, but the supply seems to have dried up. Lastly, at the risk of crossing over into nitpicking territory, the headlights need to be replaced with something better. AMT's engraving looks like a rush job and, if installed without modifying the pin/hole setup, the "lenses" will be skewed.
Here's an example of the headlight issue (not my build)
I always follow his builds because he points out any corrections he felt were necessary to make, and he usually summarizes how he went about it. He's also known for being very precise when it comes to replicating the shades and hues of everything on the car, which is very helpful if you're building, or planning to build, the same kit. When you nail all the little details like he does, the result should be something special.
That red looks spectacular, and I love the fact that you pulled it off using one of those 1/4 oz jars of Testors paint reduced with lacquer thinner. Can't wait to see what else you've got planned for your build.
I'm going to be watching this closely to see what all has to be done to make one of these go together nicely. I've got a couple of them started, but as you said, it'll take some diligence to get good results. It's been a while since I last looked, but it seemed like reference pics were kinda scarce last time I had one of these on the bench.
On behalf of all future builders of this kit, thanks for pointing out the sway bar error as well as listing a way to correct it. Couple questions: 1) Can you elaborate on what paints and/or stains you used to achieve all those shades on the exhaust? 2) Whose acrylics did you use for the interior, and if you don't mind me asking, why acrylics as opposed to enamels? As always, I enjoy watching your projects come to life, and this looks to be another knockout.
I assume you're working with a Johan kit, so if you're interested in being totally accurate, you may want to consider sourcing an engine from another kit. Johan never changed up to the newer-style engines in their AMC kits, which made them look a little iffy (Imagine building a '70 Mustang with a Y-block) especially to AMC aficionados. I've heard AMT's Bobby Allison stock car and one of the Monogram Jeeps have the basics for a more correct-looking engine, and the stock car should be available cheap. Best of luck on your project.
I'm going to respectfully disagree with you on this. Neither of those shades comes close to AMC engine blue, which is closer to a light teal. As for the OP, it looks like someone found some info a paint shop could use to mix it, but that may require you to buy a quart, at a minimum. (Shop policies vary) An alternative solution, if you have an airbrush, would be to check the nail polish aisle. You should have no trouble matching this shade. You'll probably have to reduce it with lacquer thinner, so you should use an appropriate primer on the engine before painting.
If I had only read what colors you'd be using on the body and roof, I'd have my doubts as to whether it would turn out well, but after seeing your pictures, I'd say you went from thinking outside the box to knocking it out of the park. From what you've shown us so far, you've done some very nice work on this build. Based on that, I have no doubt it'll be spectacular when you get it finished.
It's commonly known that AMT did a poor job on the '69 Chevelle kit's tail lights. I've heard that Modelhaus has clear red replacement lenses, as well as front and rear bumpers that may have been based on the promo kit. Are any of these Modelhaus parts (bumpers and tail light lenses) better than what's in the kit?
Joseph, it's always exciting to see new product releases from you, especially when they address a major oversight (IMO) on the original mfr's part: From what I've seen, the Revell S&H kit builds up reasonably well, but the "mags" look like stamped steel wheels, and they're all the same size. OTOH, if these new 5-slot wheels are anything like the other 5-slots you offer, they'll not only have the correct "window" depth, they'll give modelers the option of wider rear wheels and narrower fronts, allowing them to replicate the S&H car more accurately. This "look" also carries over to most of the street rods and street machines from back in the '60s to... who knows when. For those of you upgrading to Joseph's wheels, I'd recommend checking out his tires, too. He's got some nice, wide radials that'll keep you from making the mistake of putting bias-ply tires on a mid-'70s car.
As far as paint,assembly and BMF scripts go, you did a great job. The color really suits the car well, too. Did those tires come in that kit? I have one or two variants of this kit, and they still had the old Polyglas GTs. If they aren't AMT tires, where'd you get them?