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64Comet404

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About 64Comet404

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    MCM Avid Poster

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  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25

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  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Full Name
    Ken Nesbitt

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  1. We do get some, hmmm, less desirable kits sometimes, but it isn’t like everyone is getting a Palmer kit. For our club, the rules are that the kit must be complete and unbuilt, and that participants who do not finish their kit have to bring back an unbuilt kit. That kit then becomes a donation for the door prizes/silent auction items for our annual contest. Sometimes the greatest fun is seeing what people build from these turds, and there have been some highly polished turds that have appeared on the table. As I mentioned earlier, I exchanged a ‘65 Pontiac 2+2 for the Aerovette, and the 2+2 has to be one of the worst retools out there. I’m looking forward to seeing what someone does with THAT kit!!!
  2. No, I have to admit I didn't do a search before posting. However, for a kit that was released over twenty years ago, and has been reissued at least once, I think there should be a lot more completed builds than I have seen. I did like your build, great colour choice.
  3. The model club has a kit swap, where members take an unbuilt kit, wrap it like a present, and a draw goes on to pick a kit from the pile (to be built in six months). This year, I was able to exchange the kit I “won” (AMT ‘65 Pontiac 2+2) for a Revell Aerovette. I’ve always liked the look of the car, but realized I have never seen one completed. As the silver on silver colour scheme is a bit bland, I began to think of paint jobs which would complement the car. The US racing colours have always appealed to me, so why not a Grand Sport? Some paint, engine and wheels would help in the transformation. The test fitting displayed the first problem. As moulded, it is impossible to mount the chassis after the bumpers have been installed, and installing the bumpers after the chassis install would leave exposed seams. I decided to split the frame into three sections, which would allow me to work around this issue. I glued the front piece in before I cut it from the main chassis, so I could keep all the proper measurements intact. The next step is installing and moulding the bumpers, and figuring out further body mods (I’m considering exposed headlights, as well as some other ideas). Stay tuned.
  4. If you look at the sides of the plastic base, there are a number of holes on both sides, which should help you in finding the best distance and tension to hold the body in place. The paint colour looks good.
  5. Digital read-outs are very handy for milling machines, especially when you are dealing with the small increments we need for model building. I used to work with both horizontal and vertical milling machines, and whenever I needed down to the last thousandth, the DRO mill was the go-to unit.
  6. I may get one, since it is the closest kit I can find for my Kia Rondo. Many differences, but I believe they share the same platform.
  7. Jeff Beck was also a model car builder, there are pics from the mid-'60s showing Jeff with all his 1/24 Monogram builds sitting on the shelves. I don't know if he kept building models once he started building 1:1 cars. It is a shame to hear about Neil's passing. Some people list Moon and Bonham at the top of the greatest drummers, but Peart had much better technique, and continued to be at the top of his game for over 40 years. Great lyricist and a really good writer, and the man whose writings convinced me to buy a BMW motorcycle. Rest in peace, Neil.
  8. Looking forward to seeing how this build goes. I've had three of these kits over the years, and I am happy to have an unbuilt one to apply all the tricks and techniques now available to the modeller. When I last built this kit in the early 1990's, I tried to fill in the ejector pin marks and sink marks with spot putty, and didn't have the painting or sanding skills needed to fettle and cover the repairs properly.
  9. I checked my Seafox, and it didn't even have a stand in the box. It was a second-hand kit, so I'm not worried. If you are going to start building biplanes, the Matchbox kits are a great entry point. When I started to build aircraft kits as an adult, I would buy these kits, and use them to fine-tune my building techniques. The locating pins and tabs are outstanding, and miles ahead of the old Airfix/Frog/Aurora attachment points. The only older biplane kits I would place at the same ease of assembly are the late '60s Monogram interwar fighters. If you can spare a kit, take one of the more common Matchbox biplanes and build it right out of the box, without painting it. I think you will be impressed.
  10. When cleaning brushes, always try and avoid bending the bristles, it does lead to them losing their shape. I also use a brush cleaner/preserver (available at art supply stores) regularly, to get any dried paint out of the brush. Keep the tips in their plastic tubes (to help hold their shape), or make some from tubing.
  11. I call it 'blush', but it's not a humidity blush. It's the first time I have had some weird reactions when using Tamiya sprays. The paint was completely dry before the clear was applied, but the clear actually reacted with the colour coat, and the finished colour was much darker than the original.
  12. I have been polishing the paint out on a Doyusha Aston Martin DB5. I'm not very happy with the finish (some paint blush), but I'm looking at it as an amnesty build, so I just want it finished and off the bench!!!
  13. From memory, the running gear represents a pre-unit construction (engine and trans separate) Triumph 650 twin, so it could have started out as a pre-'63 T100, Bonneville, or similar bike.
  14. I believe those are the Model Car Garage items. The tabs on the steering wheel should face towards the 'driver', so that the tabs on the photo etched spokes are hidden.
  15. I've owned a few cars which turned out to be sketchy in the end. My first daily driver was an '80 Malibu coupe (229/auto) that was the proverbial 'little old lady' car. My Dad picked it up for me in the fall of '87, but it needed a replacement for the rusted-out oil pan! Noticed a bit of rust on the quarters the following summer, and when I went to clean them up, discovered both quarters were full of Bondo. I got rid of it when the rear frame extensions rusted out and broke behind the rear axle. There have been other cars which have been sub-standard in one way or another (body or mechanical, but never both in the same car), but the worst one I have had was my 2014 Ford Focus. Well-equipped and sporty to drive, but it ate clutches constantly, blew the steering rack and rear shocks out in the first two years of ownership, and started to shed large chunks of paint from the quarters, doors, and hatch, before I traded it in November 2018. As a longtime Ford driver, I was very disappointed.
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