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About 64Comet404

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    MCM Ohana

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    Ontario, Canada
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    Ken Nesbitt

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  1. Many years back, when Scale Auto Enthusiast became Scale Auto, I remember making a comment online about the natural progression: Scale Auto Enthusiast>Scale Auto>Fine Scale Auto>Fine Scale Auto Modeller>Fine Scale Modeller. It no longer seems so funny. I've seen so many car modelling mags folded into the Shermans and Germans publications, and disappearing shortly thereafter. Is it so hard for publishers to realize that car modellers do like having a magazine that caters to their likes?
  2. AFAIK, the Plodges stopped after 1959, after that it was full-size Dodges with Plymouth dashboards and interiors. I agree though, the mating of the two halves does look really good!
  3. They were a neat looking truck, can remember one of the big regional carriers running several of these when I was young.
  4. Adam, if you are looking for a set of whitewall tires, they are available in the Revell Yenko '69 Corvette kit. Same tires as the Corvette America, but with lettering removed and tamponed-printed whitewalls in place. Hope this helps!
  5. Speculating about tooling is akin to playing the lottery. We may never win, but the dreaming about it is most of the fun!
  6. Mrmike, I read your thread and there were some good suggestions there. Thanks! I have decided on my colours, and they will be Bronze Green with Limestone wheels and roof. I am using Tamiya TS-7 for Limestone, even though it may be a touch too yellow for accuracy. It looks good, though. For the green, I am using AS-21, which is an Imperial Japanese Navy green. It has a satin finish, which is more accurate for a Land Rover. I have painted the chassis and taken off the masks, looks pretty good. I have also painted a whole pile of parts in flat black, but didn't bother taking pics yet.
  7. Dale, is there a site where you are selling the seats?
  8. The underside of the Land Rover is the same as the topside, but that is pretty much what the underside looks like. In many respects, it's like looking under an older Jeep CJ. From all reports, the tooling for the Monogram Land Rover has been scrapped. I forget the link, but I'm sure someone here can provide the URL for the story. It's a shame, because it is a nice kit.
  9. After sanding the putty on the engine and removing the seams, it was time to lay down some paint. The factory engine colour is a pale light green, so I airbrushed Humbrol 90 Matt Beige Green, cut with lacquer thinner. Before painting, I realized one missing piece was a distributor. Since the real part is buried underneath the air cleaner ducting, I cut and drilled a piece of sprue to act as a wire holder. It's now in the dehydrator, so it will take a couple of days of baking before it's ready for handling.
  10. The chassis isn't too bad, but there are some heavy parting lines to smooth out. Some time spent with files, sanding sticks, and knives is in order. I drilled out the end of the exhaust pipe, and after the primer coat had dried, I laid down a coat of Tamiya AS-12 silver for the exhaust system. Once the part has dried, it will be time for masking.
  11. I started the build by filling in the sink marks and ejector pin marks on the body, body panels, and engine. There's a couple of deep flow marks on the rear of the body, and one runs right underneath the Land Rover badge. Fortunately, I do have a Revell parts kit, which has the decal I need to replace the badge.
  12. I have enjoyed Roadrunnertwice's restoration of his 1980's-era Land Rover, and it inspired me to pull my kit off the shelf. This is my third build of this kit, the first time when it was new (glue bomb), and the second time was an attempt to build an Out of Box build for local shows. Unfortunately, my skills were not up to the challenge, and I sold off most of the remains at a swap meet over 20 years ago. Hopefully third time's the charm...
  13. You shouldn't have a problem once you prime over top of the putty. Never had a problem with either white or grey Tamiya putty bleeding through.
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