RT6PK
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Posts posted by RT6PK
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Nice! Your father must be pleased. Would you have a picture of his car?
His car is about 2 months from being finished (hopefully only 2 months).
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My dad's birthday is this Sunday. For his present, I replicated his 1:1 hot rod. It's the Revell '30 Coupe. '40 Ford Standard hubcaps with a hopped up flathead from the '40 Ford custom. Banjo rear end from the parts box. Everything else was pretty much out of the box. It was almost as if Revell had his car in mind when they designed the kit, (except for the aforementioned mods). Happy 71st Dad.
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I had an '85 Shelby Charger. I remember the car was pretty crude and unrefined. The car was however easy to work on... which was good... because it always needed worked on.
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My first boyhood crush was Julie Neumar as the Cat Woman.
My second was Mary Tyler Moore on the Dick Van Dyke re-runs. Loved her.
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i have yet to see the Prudhomme car at my LHS, hopefully it will show up with the McEwen car.
And I hate to nit pic, but, the Garlits car was the first "Successful" Rear Engine Car, not the first Rear Engine Car.
LOL, I caught that too.
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Years ago, when AMT came out with the '71 Charger R/T, my LHS had a shipment that had an Olds Toronado body, (if I remember correctly) in place of the Charger body. AMT was replacing the order and the LHS owner was selling the kits with the mis-matched bodies for next to nothing. I think I bought five of them off of him for the parts particularly the awesome 440's with the 727 trannys.
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Weird. The picture I posted was nicked directly from the Collector Model blog post last September, and the Polylgas GT tires should've been included with the '49 Ford.
Are you looking for the L60-15 Polyglas tires specifically, or just any of the newer Polyglas tires AMT has included in their kits?
I was looking for the printed ones like the ones in the picture. I have about 200 of the older ones without the printing; however my eyes are not what they used to be and it is difficult to hand paint the white letters.
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Were these Firestone (cheater?) slicks included in other kits previously?
Does anyone know what kit the Goodyear Polyglas tires came from?
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gardnerpag 44 just hooked me up with a '32 Ford seat that I was looking for. Thanks Paul.
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vintagedragcrazy came through once again. Thanks Vince.
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If anyone is looking for the '30 Ford Coupe, A guy has some on Amazon for about $30.00 with free shipping. That seems pretty reasonable considering that some ya'hoos on eBay are already asking $39.99 or more PLUS shipping.
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vintagedragcrazy is a straight up guy. Vince, if there is anything I can do for you... you let me know.
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Right back at both of you guys. Bob and Vince (Dragline and vintagedragcrazy) are straight up guys who came throught with some good stuff. I would definately do business with both again.
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Can anyone recommend a type of clear coat, (gloss? flat? Testers? Tamiya?) to spray on an old decal sheet to prevent, (or at least minimize the chance) of the decals breaking apart in water?
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Thanks for the reply, It was a big help.
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I am working on the Revell Good-guys '55 Chevy. This is the later version without the opening doors and trunk; NOT the older one that came out in the 60's and was re-released throughout the 70's and 80's. The quarter panel chrome trim is separate from the body and must be glued on. The chrome trim that runs down the front fender is molded to the body and must be Bare Metaled after paint. My question is will Bare Metal foil on the front fender trim match the Revell quarter panel chrome trim as far as "shininess"? Or, would I be better off stripping the chrome off of the quarter panel trim, gluing it to the body prior to paint, and then bare-metaling it after paint for an exact match?
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No, those are Drag Stars, (I think). Drag Lites had 8 round holes.
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Does anyone know of any kits that have Weld Drag Lite wheels? I know that older funny cars and Pro stocks had them, but they are too fat (rear) and skinny (front). I need them in a regular street car width. Any suggestions?
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Who had worked with Testors Laquer? Do you need a clear coat? Or, can you just sand and rub the paint? Any tips or feedback?
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I have an issue with Testors metallic blue running away from high spots and door jams on a body. I started with Tamiya grey primer, sanded with 600 grit, washed with soap ant water, then painted with several light coats of Arctic Blue Metallic, then one heavy top coat, the same technique that I have used for about 30 years. The paint seems to draw away from the door jams and body trim. Any ideas on how to prevent it from happening after I strip and repaint?
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Here's another one...
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Going through some stuff and I found these old cans. I remember using this actual can of blue to build my first JoHan '69 Roadrunner when I was about 12, (1982ish ?). Remember when Testors only had about 15 spray colors?
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Hold the bottle by the cap under running hot water with pliers. Grip the cap with the pliers at the very top of the lid so as not to damage the threads on the cap. After you are done with the paint, wipe the excess paint out of the cap and from around the top of the bottle.
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I am building a '55 Chevy, an early 60's style mild custom with a shaved hood and trunk and '56 Olds Fiesta hubcaps. Anyway, I want a white interior with just slight satin finish to resemble the naugahyde, (vinyl) that was used back then. In the past, I have used Testors flat white with a satin clear coat. The problem is that the clear has a slight tint to it that gives it an "off-white" color. Can anyone recommend what can use for a true white color?
Post pics of your fave paint jobs!
in Model Cars
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This is the first model that I built right out of the box without having to change or modify anything in many many years. Revell really nailed it with this one.