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RT6PK

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Posts posted by RT6PK


  1. My dad's birthday is this Sunday. For his present, I replicated his 1:1 hot rod. It's the Revell '30 Coupe. '40 Ford Standard hubcaps with a hopped up flathead from the '40 Ford custom. Banjo rear end from the parts box. Everything else was pretty much out of the box. It was almost as if Revell had his car in mind when they designed the kit, (except for the aforementioned mods). Happy 71st Dad.

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    20170214_180250.jpg


  2. Years ago, when AMT came out with the '71 Charger R/T, my LHS had a shipment that had an Olds Toronado body, (if I remember correctly) in place of the Charger body. AMT was replacing the order and the LHS owner was selling the kits with the mis-matched bodies for next to nothing. I think I bought five of them off of him for the parts particularly the awesome 440's with the 727 trannys.


  3. Weird. The picture I posted was nicked directly from the Collector Model blog post last September, and the Polylgas GT tires should've been included with the '49 Ford.

    Are you looking for the L60-15 Polyglas tires specifically, or just any of the newer Polyglas tires AMT has included in their kits?

    I was looking for the printed ones like the ones in the picture. I have about 200 of the older ones without the printing; however my eyes are not what they used to be and it is difficult to hand paint the white letters.


  4. I am working on the Revell Good-guys '55 Chevy. This is the later version without the opening doors and trunk; NOT the older one that came out in the 60's and was re-released throughout the 70's and 80's. The quarter panel chrome trim is separate from the body and must be glued on. The chrome trim that runs down the front fender is molded to the body and must be Bare Metaled after paint. My question is will Bare Metal foil on the front fender trim match the Revell quarter panel chrome trim as far as "shininess"? Or, would I be better off stripping the chrome off of the quarter panel trim, gluing it to the body prior to paint, and then bare-metaling it after paint for an exact match?

     


  5. I have an issue with Testors metallic blue running away from high spots and door jams on a body. I started with Tamiya grey primer, sanded with 600 grit, washed with soap ant water, then painted with several light coats of Arctic Blue Metallic, then one heavy top coat, the same technique that I have used for about 30 years. The paint seems to draw away from the door jams and body trim. Any ideas on how to prevent it from happening after I strip and repaint?


  6. I am building a '55 Chevy, an early 60's style mild custom with a shaved hood and trunk and '56 Olds Fiesta hubcaps. Anyway, I want a white interior with just slight satin finish to resemble the naugahyde, (vinyl) that was used back then. In the past, I have used Testors flat white with a satin clear coat. The problem is that the clear has a slight tint to it that gives it an "off-white" color. Can anyone recommend what can use for a true white color?

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