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Everything posted by RT6PK

  1. I am working on the Revell Good-guys '55 Chevy. This is the later version without the opening doors and trunk; NOT the older one that came out in the 60's and was re-released throughout the 70's and 80's. The quarter panel chrome trim is separate from the body and must be glued on. The chrome trim that runs down the front fender is molded to the body and must be Bare Metaled after paint. My question is will Bare Metal foil on the front fender trim match the Revell quarter panel chrome trim as far as "shininess"? Or, would I be better off stripping the chrome off of the quarter panel trim, gluing it to the body prior to paint, and then bare-metaling it after paint for an exact match?
  2. No, those are Drag Stars, (I think). Drag Lites had 8 round holes.
  3. Does anyone know of any kits that have Weld Drag Lite wheels? I know that older funny cars and Pro stocks had them, but they are too fat (rear) and skinny (front). I need them in a regular street car width. Any suggestions?
  4. Who had worked with Testors Laquer? Do you need a clear coat? Or, can you just sand and rub the paint? Any tips or feedback?
  5. I have an issue with Testors metallic blue running away from high spots and door jams on a body. I started with Tamiya grey primer, sanded with 600 grit, washed with soap ant water, then painted with several light coats of Arctic Blue Metallic, then one heavy top coat, the same technique that I have used for about 30 years. The paint seems to draw away from the door jams and body trim. Any ideas on how to prevent it from happening after I strip and repaint?
  6. Going through some stuff and I found these old cans. I remember using this actual can of blue to build my first JoHan '69 Roadrunner when I was about 12, (1982ish ?). Remember when Testors only had about 15 spray colors?
  7. Hold the bottle by the cap under running hot water with pliers. Grip the cap with the pliers at the very top of the lid so as not to damage the threads on the cap. After you are done with the paint, wipe the excess paint out of the cap and from around the top of the bottle.
  8. I am building a '55 Chevy, an early 60's style mild custom with a shaved hood and trunk and '56 Olds Fiesta hubcaps. Anyway, I want a white interior with just slight satin finish to resemble the naugahyde, (vinyl) that was used back then. In the past, I have used Testors flat white with a satin clear coat. The problem is that the clear has a slight tint to it that gives it an "off-white" color. Can anyone recommend what can use for a true white color?
  9. I love '36 3 windows. I built one a while back with the chopped top. I remember having a hard tome getting the grille to fit correctly. also, the roof didn't line up all that great to the body. Other than that it was pretty good.
  10. Let's say I take the easy way out and buy a resin body. One is avaliable from Modelhaus. Can anyone comment on the quality of their bodies? Are they ok, or is there another manufaturer that I should look for?
  11. Has anyone ever converted AMT’s ’55 Chevy Nomad to a Sedan Delivery? I know I could just buy a resin body, but that would take all of the fun out of it. My plan was to remove the Nomad trim and fill in the grooves in the roof. I have a set of the old Revell ’56 Chevy 2 door sedan doors. I plan on removing the slanted B-pillars from the Nomad and fitting in the window frames from the ’56 doors. I am open to suggestions for filling in the rear side windows. I suppose I can make panels out of some sheet styrene that I have. But I am not sure how to wrap/roll the sheets around the rear corners to meet up to the rear window frame. Or, I can use the nomad glass somehow, (which is already rolled at the rear), and mold it in place and paint it. Can anyone offer any advice or comments?
  12. I thought they moved the apocypse to Jan 6, 2013. The Mayans didn't account for leap years.
  13. The underside looks great. How did you get the "weathered" effect?
  14. I second that. I used the rears from th T-Bolt kit, perfect fit.
  15. Seems pretty unanimous so far. I haven't seen anyone say that wrapping in paper is that way to go. What tick me off is that I PM'd tell him about his packaging skills and he hasn't had the decency to respond with even a "sorry my bad".
  16. I recently had two different "Wanted to Trade" posts going. I was able to trade off a lot of kits, get a lot of stuff that I was looking for, and meet some good guys in the process. Everything went smooth except one trade. One member sent me a '62 Pontiac. All he did for shipping was wrap the kit box in paper which offers absolutely no protection from postal workers whose only goal in life is to load and unload trucks as quickly as possible. In addition to that, he taped the paper to the kit box with duct tape. Needless to say, the kit was smashed to hell. And, when I did remove the paper, the duct tape tore a big part of the printing off of the box, (not that that mattered, because the box was already crushed). Sooooo, just a small piece of advice to those who didn't already figure this out, Please, when shipping a model kit, it is a good idea to put it in a cardboard box. The post office gives you the boxes and tape for free, (as long as you use Priority Mail); and wrinkled up old newspapers are a very inexpensive packing material. I have bought and sold many over the years, and have always had good luck doing it this way.
  17. Thanks guys. Yeah as you can tell, I'm a Mopar fan, (although my last 5 or 6 builds have been 50's and 60's style rods and customs). Getting the Coronet a few years back was my boyhood dream come true. The only downside was selling off a load of vintage model kits to help raise some of the cash.
  18. Hi Everyone, I've been checking out the forum for a couple weeks now and I decided to go ahead and register. My youngest is at the age where he doesn't need constant supervision now, so hopefully I'll have a little free time for model building again, (when I'm not messing with my real one). I attached a few pictures of my builds as well as the real one. Jamie
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