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slownlow

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About slownlow

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    MCM Friend

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24-25

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  • Location
    central Iowa
  • Full Name
    bob maloy

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  1. I found this expanded metal from a sheetrock patch kit at my local Home Depot.
  2. I’m making slow progress on the car but so far so good. The fender skirt is similar to what Steib uses on there 1:1 hacks but I’m not sure if I want to use it.
  3. A friend at the local club gave me this partially assembled kit. There were some parts missing and some glaring seams showing so I opted to take it apart and reassemble with my own twist. To take it apart I used the get it wet and freezing trick which worked with partial success. I think the glue is probably 40+ years old. For the purists out there he also gave me an unstarted kit which I’ll do as the box art suggests. As yo can see some of the seams were in tough locationsBefore disassembly I was smart enough to drill joints to receive pinsHere it’s beginning to look like what I have in mind. To change the bars to a downsweep I cut a wedge out underneath next to the risers. Here is the bike, all but done, now onto the car
  4. I’ve finally finished this after working on her since spring. The inspiration came from a pair of shoes my son owns, calls them his devil shoes, go figure.
  5. Just finished this. The darker color is Go Mango and the lighter is self mixed.
  6. Thanks. It’s the AMT 2in1 kit with the red car an the box.
  7. The 34 Ford is complete. It blends the modern running gear with spoke wheels and the flathead. I wanted something to look like early lake runners. This is the AMT 2in1 kit and they give you a ton of parts.
  8. This is outside my normal comfort zone. Usually I build 30’s thru 50’s cars but wanted to stretch myself a little. The chop is as described in that other magazine and it moves the leading edge of the roof back. If I do another I’ll do it differently but this has it’s own charm. The kit supplied rear had 6 round holes for tail lights and I felt that was counter to the straight lines of the body so I fabricated slots and the frenched license plate. The kit custom options for the front were kind of heavy handed so I continued the slot theme for the headlights and used a portion of the stock bumper. Turnpike skirts were fabricated and I quite like the affect.
  9. If they’re not going to be seen, like the top of the tranny, don’t bother. The rest of the joint lines can be sanded out or if they have a gap then fill them. Fillers can be bondo, thin styrene, thick body superglue with a dash of baking powder after application (it gets hard real quick) or.....There could be a whole category about fillers.
  10. At this point the only thing done to the rear deck is changing the trunk from the rumble seat to the standard. The kit comes with a continental kit but I’m not sure it adds to the over all look. Thoughts?
  11. Thanks for the kind comments. The hubcaps are from Replicas & Miniatures.
  12. Finally making some good progress on the 36. I’ve got a bike that has color fade like this so thought to try it out here. The silver is Tamiya’s TS Mica Silver and the black is Tamiya’s TS Smoke.
  13. Finally making some good progress on the 36. I’ve got a bike that has color fade like this so thought to try it out here. The silver is Tamiya’s TS Mica Silver and the black is Tamiya’s TS Smoke.
  14. The only thing I would add to the above suggestions is using a razor saw. It worked quite well for keeping the lines straight on a Studebaker I did a while ago. The first several passes should be done with almost no pressure. As my old pa used to say "Let the saw do the work" For square corners start at the corner and draw away from it.
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