[[Template core/front/global/utilitiesMenu does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

slownlow

Members
  • Content count

    143
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About slownlow

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/24-25

Profile Information

  • Location
    central Iowa
  • Full Name
    bob maloy

Recent Profile Visitors

4,189 profile views
  1. Joint lines in motor

    If they’re not going to be seen, like the top of the tranny, don’t bother. The rest of the joint lines can be sanded out or if they have a gap then fill them. Fillers can be bondo, thin styrene, thick body superglue with a dash of baking powder after application (it gets hard real quick) or.....There could be a whole category about fillers.
  2. Progress on 36 Ford

    At this point the only thing done to the rear deck is changing the trunk from the rumble seat to the standard. The kit comes with a continental kit but I’m not sure it adds to the over all look. Thoughts?
  3. Progress on 36 Ford

    Thanks for the kind comments. The hubcaps are from Replicas & Miniatures.
  4. Progress on 36 Ford

    Finally making some good progress on the 36. I’ve got a bike that has color fade like this so thought to try it out here. The silver is Tamiya’s TS Mica Silver and the black is Tamiya’s TS Smoke.
  5. Progress on 36 Ford

    Finally making some good progress on the 36. I’ve got a bike that has color fade like this so thought to try it out here. The silver is Tamiya’s TS Mica Silver and the black is Tamiya’s TS Smoke.
  6. Creating NEW Panel Lines

    The only thing I would add to the above suggestions is using a razor saw. It worked quite well for keeping the lines straight on a Studebaker I did a while ago. The first several passes should be done with almost no pressure. As my old pa used to say "Let the saw do the work" For square corners start at the corner and draw away from it.
  7. Work bench ideas?

    Here's where my insanity transpires. The table is an old wooden draftsman model that's been with me since high school (that's a looong time). The machinest chest holds the small tools, tape, BMF, sandpaper sheets, paintbrushes, other misc. stuff. The drawer unit is somewhat organized for some small parts by type( wheels, engine bits, carbs, etc), and stuff like fine wire, solder, clear twist ties, milliput..... the shelving on the right has paint, epoxy, styrene and whatnots. I've found that lighting is really important, you can never have too much.
  8. Show us what YOU'Ve done with the different '40 Ford kits

    Here's an old favorite. Done with the Revell kit
  9. What techniques are used to paint exhausts, fuel tanks,brake lines,etc.? Or is it easier to cut the floor pan loose from the frame and scratch build that stuff?
  10. Like where this is going. The old Rommel's Rod also uses the 35 Mercedes. To lower the stance i Zed the front and not sure what you call the rear mod but with wheels in back you could Z there also. Keep on keep'n on.
  11. 1936 Ford roadster custom

    Nice, good paint too
  12. STUDE SNAFU

    Thanks all for the kind comments
  13. Flexible ducts

    I currently don't have an unused microbrush to photo but hopefully you can visualize one from the 2 used ones in the pic. When new they have a small tuft at the tip for small paint or glue application. They are made of plastic and I use only the serrated section, bent the curve and pinn the ends by way of short lengths of straight pin to the engine and body.
  14. Flexible ducts

    One of the things that stumped me for a while was fabricating flexible ducts for engine air intake on my last project. I finally tumbled onto this solution after using these applicators many times for their intended use.