I have built both kits several times and they are among my favorites. The only real issue with t he Rolls kit that I know of is a somewhat challenging mating point of the body and front fender. I suggest gluing the body/fender assembly first then painting the assembly as a whole. I also find the fit of the hood/ radiator of that kit to be fiddly and has required some sanding/shimming to get right. Hope that helps!
I am now scratchbuilding the interior. Here are the door panels I made up. One has some wash to bring out the details. Candidly, I am not sure I like it as much as the other so I may re-do it. The armrests are quite severely angled. Such matches the real car.
1911 Ford Model T Torpedo
1913 Mercer J-35 Raceabout
1917 Roamer Phaeton
1929 Duesenberg J Murphy Convertible Sedan
1929 Franklin 137 Runabout
1929 Lincoln L Locke Club Roadster
1930 Cord L-29 Phaeton Sedan
1930 Cadillac 452 Madame X Convertible Coupe- Fleetwood
1930 Ford Model A Cabriolet
1931 Ford Model A Deluxe phaeton
1932 Lincoln K Dietrich Convertible Sedan
1932 Duesenberg SJ Murphy Roadster
1932 Packard 12 Dietrich Phaeton
1932 Stutz DV-32 Roadster
1934 Auburn 12 Salon Speedster
1934 Ford V-8 Phaeton
1934 Packard 12 Dietrich Convertible Victoria
1935 Duesenberg SJ Convertible Coupe-Rollston
1935 Mercedes 540 K Spezial Roadster
1937 Packard 12 Convertible Sedan
1939 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet (the prototype of course)
1948 Nash Ambassador Cabriolet
1949 Buick Super Convertible (with a stick of course)
1956 Continental Mark II
1961 Lincoln Convertible
1962 Lincoln Convertible
1962 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible
1964 Imperial Convertible
1965 Ford Mustang 2+2 Fastback, 289 HiPo 4 speed (of course)
1966 VW Cabriolet
1968 Checker Marathon Wagon
1972 Mercury Montego GT 428 CJ 4 speed
1995 Mazda MX-5 Miata Special Edition Merlot
2015 Dodge-3500 Dually with Cummings, tow package and Atlas 28' fully enclosed transporter with 1' extra height.
There are a LOT more but this is a good list to start.
Do you know the landau bars are mounted upside down in this photo? Theball is supposed to be topside so they can fold. So far this is the only flaw I have yet seen in your impecable build of ths model Keep at it.
Here are my humble contrubutions to the topic. Sort of opposite poles here. I offer up my '68 Jeep Commando with a V-6 and my 1929 Rolls Royce Phantom II Ascot Phaeton with an OHV strait 6 with dual ignition. Good topic you have going here.
Finally I had time to make a bit of progress. I got the paint work completed on the body including the intricate multi-tome paint scheme. I still need to rub it out and get some real gloss going but I am very happy so far. I did a bit more detail work on the firewall and it is ready to fit to the body. Interior panels have been made from scratch. I tried multiple attempts to copy the exact Judkins pattern but could not. So...I cheated. I figured in this scale hardly anyone would ever see the difference and besides, this is not a model destined for a contest anywhere anytime. So...I said "good enough for what it is an who it is for."
Next I need to make the headliner, windows, windshiled wiipers, hinges for the doors, floors, pedals and fit the seats (I cheated and used out of the box seats for this. They are not perfect replicas of what was in the car but prety darn close) and shorten/fit the running boards. If I were dilligent I could probably finish it in 3-4 evenings but I am trying to take my time and not smudge anything in the final assembly.
This is simply stunning. Every detail is right on point. You have certainly done the old Johan justice. Your model must be one of the best 540 roadsters I have ever seen. Well done. I concur, come to the dark side and build Classics with a capital C with the rest of us!
I learn something every time I take the time to follow your progress. While I don't think I have enough years in my life to attempt a Pocher, your techniques will certainly help me with aspects of my other more modest modeling attempts. I enjoy myself every time I look at another aspect of this most entertaining thread. Keep up the good fight.
As you know I have followed this thread with considerable interest as I have a real 1913 Model T in my garage. Art has done a fine job of both interpreting this model and reducing many of the inaccuracies in the kit. Art is exactly right about the top material-they are quite shiny...unless they are worn out. I have appreciate all of Art's questions and commitment to making this model as good as possible. One thing that may not be immediately evident is in making both a 1913 and a 1911 Ford, of different bodystyles, it was necessary to make some pretty serious compromises with this kit to represent both cars and both bodystyles. While it would have been easier for ICM to do both as 1911's or both 1913's they created nice representations of both eras.
My hat is off to Art on this well built model.
As an offer to anyone else out there in cyber land, if you need reference photos for building one of these, all you have to do is ask, The cars are out back in the garage.