Miatatom

The only thing I use Future for is floors. Never was satisfied with the final results on a model with the exception being the windshield and windows.

I'm going to do a video sometime with my method. It involves using a valve for tapping into a water line to hook to a refrigerator and short length of copper tubing and two hose clamps. It's been discussed on this forum, I think.

Yeah, you're right about that!

Nice build. I've got 4 of those series cars. The decals scare me. I've got a few builds that have stalled because of old decals.

If the smell of paint fumes is an issue, you'll have to use acrylics. Personally, I've never made the craft paint/Future combination work. Cheap and easy to remove if needed though. 91% isopropyl alcohol will remove acrylics and most lacquers. Super clean will too and it strips chrome finishes.

My experience and advice is, don't mix different brands. Some folks have had success. I have the fewest problems when I stay with the same brand of primer, paint and clear during the process.

Welcome aboard Bruce!

Unless I missed it, I'm the only one that likes Honey Nut Cheerios. The chocolate ones too.

Twixt six thick thumbs stick six thick sticks. Say that 3 times fast!

If your question is how to polish Future, you can't. I can't anyway.

No thinner needed.

I use the $19.99 LEDs from Harbor Freight.

Paasche H is my choice for a first airbrush. Simple, inexpensive and works great.

Thanks, Bill. Hadn't tried that yet.

It's a little thick but I like the 3M thin line you can get at any auto parts place. It's vinyl and can follow a curved line fairly well. I also use Tamiya yellow too. One trick is to put the tape down and then spray a coat of clear over it to seal the edges.