Miatatom

This is what I use. Works well and doesn't smell bad at all. http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hlc/hlc151.htm

My thoughts exactly, I totally agree!

There are no rules.

Great execution and unique blending of parts. That would make a cool 1:1.

Great looking model. The two tone is unique.

Tamiya TS76 Mica Silver is pretty fine. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91357

Great job!

That's a great job! I hope the one I've got turns out that good.

Denatured alcohol. It's the only thing I've found that will work on Tamiya lacquers.

Saw one at the first autocross I ever went to and fell in love. Finally found a good one and raced it in the mid 90s. It had a 2.0 in it and handled like a go-kart. Sold it to a guy in New York that built a vintage racer out of it. Wish I still had it but that goes for a number of cars that I've owned.

All of my old ones are packaged together somewhere at a friends parents house along with all of his. We worked on them back in the early 60s. He passed away about 17 years ago. I asked his Dad if I could have them back then and he was hesitant. I understood and never pressed the issue afterwards. Went to visit them a couple of years ago and didn't bring it up. Those models hold a lot of sentimental value for his parents and myself. I hope they're not in the attic. You're lucky to have yours back.

I use one from an old computer power supply. 10 amps sounds high.

I like it a lot!

There aren't enough superlatives to describe your work. If I'm ever half that good, I'll be better than I thought I'd ever be.

Love the period colors. The trim and chrome look great and the detail work is excellent!

Thank you very much, sir.

For my 500th post to the forum, I thought I'd discuss some things I've learned. I'm certainly not very good yet, but I have learned a lot in the 2+ years I've been a member of this forum, which is excellent, IMO. When I first returned to the hobby, I was excited to build some of the cars I would have had during my lifetime, but for the lack of money, as well as some of the cars I had actually owned. That was mistake #1. I chose kits that required skills that I didn't possess yet. Things like two tone paint jobs, seams down the center of a kit, etc., weren't apparent obstacles but they sure made for problems with a novice like myself. One of the things I learned was “thinking in scale”. Kits with small A pillars and body parts are a challenge. If you're heavy handed or aggressive or looking for a quick shortcut, you're probably going to mess up some plastic. I did. I had to keep thinking, “it's plastic, not metal”. I've got several models that I started and put on the back burner because I've got to get better to fix the mistakes I've made. Some may be beyond fixing. If you're getting back into it or haven't refined your skills yet, I suggest starting with something very very simple and very very sturdy. You'll gain confidence when you finish one. I did. Also, select something that's cheap and easily replaced. Starting out with an expensive and/or rare kit is another mistake I made. Find something cheap and decent in design and have fun. If you mess up, it's no big deal. Work slow, think things through and you'll probably have some fun and success. When it's not going good, get up from the bench and go do something else. Make it fun!

The 5" PVC plumbing flanges I used for arm holes protrude about 3/4" out the front. I put the gloves through the opening and fold the ends over the flange. I always take a piece of duct tape and tape it down to prevent the plastic sleeves from tearing. They are held in place with large hose clamps. You've just about gotten me motivated to do a short video with more details about the booth and how it is set up and works.

This cabinet from Harbor Freight can be adapted http://www.harborfreight.com/abrasive-blast-cabinet-42202.html I wanted a lot of room so I built my own. I've got about $240 total in it, including the bilge pump , tubing and other miscellaneous stuff. The gloves I use can be bought here. They're very thin, inexpensive and work great. QC Supply PO Box 581 Schuyler, NE 68661-0581

If you want to totally eliminate dust, you've got to create an enclosure. This is what I did. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76088

What kind of paint are you trying to remove?

I like this place. http://www.hobbylinc.com/Plastic_Model_Cars_Trucks_Vehicles?gclid=CKL01JGhnq8CFQS0nQodGniHag You can always go to Hobby Lobby with their 40% off coupons that they offer each week too.

If anyone has never seen Grand Prix with James Garner, you have missed the best racing film ever, IMHO.

Lacquer thinner will clean enamel paint but I don't know how well it will work if the brushes are already dry.

I like it a lot!