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Everything posted by Miatatom

  1. Actually, I wasn't going to use the rubber gloves normally found on a glove box. The ones I used in the nuke plants were very easy to use and dexterity was reduced very little. Naturally, they were expensive. The gloves used on things like sand blast cabinets are pretty thick and would definitely be impossible to air brush with any finesse at all. I've thought about that and plan to test the use of a piece of tire inner tube, maybe off a big truck or something. What I have in mind is cutting out something like a 10" circle and attaching it to the cabinet with some sort of home made flange. Lids off 1 gallon paint cans might work. The center of each 10" cut out would have a small hole about the size of my forearm. I always wear rubber gloves when I'm fooling with paint so I'll also make sure to wear long sleeves too. The cabinet will be made from a single piece of plywood. As for budget, I'm going to see if I can do it all for less than $150. We'll see if that's realistic.
  2. Does anyone use anything like this for your models? I'm looking for ideas for holding the cars while working on them. http://www.micromark.com/soft-touch-cradle,7542.html?ns_md=Email&ns_sc=Marketing&ns_cn=13WS003&ns_pc=13WS003&utm_source=Marketing&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=13WS003
  3. Back in the late 60s I worked at one of the nuclear weapons plants in Oak Ridge, TN. Working in the lab, I spent my fair share of time working in a glove box. If you're not familiar with it, it's a closed environment where you can work on all sorts of nasty materials without contaminating the surrounding area or yourself. Your arms fit into rubber gloves that are attached and sealed. Here's something from Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glovebox I'm thinking, why can't the same theory work for an enclosed spray booth. I've drawn up some plans and I've got a couple of questions. Should it be a down draft, up draft, side draft or back draft? I wonder how much flow I'll need to keep the paint overspray from building up and obscuring vision?
  4. I hope some of mine come out this nice.
  5. Great work, young man. Keep it up.
  6. Lots of folks here use BMF. I can see the advantages. Being a returnee to the hobby, that's one tip I've got bookmarked and will use on my 61 Impala.
  7. I had all the BMC tips bookmarked. I'd certainly appreciate a copy of those zip files.
  8. I use the clip/skewer for hand painting as well as air brushing.
  9. I use several methods. If the part has an area that doesn't need painting or won't show, I hold it with an alligator clip pushed onto a wooden kabob skewer. I put the clip on the blunt end of the skewer and push the pointed end into a block of styrofoam for drying. If there's a hole, I'll use a toothpick and hold it with the clip/skewer. I also use Donn Yost's method and stick parts to a length of masking tape.
  10. Excellent build!!! I'm going to build one of these as a tribute to a friend I lost to suicide 16 years ago. I've already got the 440 like the one he had in his car. It was a beast.
  11. Here's a few links that may answer some of your questions. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34699 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44741 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44805 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=43343 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=40343 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42704 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=36534 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32378 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32803 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33212 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60721 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58942 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66686&pid=819720&st=0&#entry819720
  12. Nice job! Doing one of these is something I might try in the future.
  13. Great conversion. I love it!
  14. Another one that's on my list to build and beautifully done.
  15. Nice build! I like the lettering. Makes it look period correct.
  16. That's just great. Takes me back to Greenville - Pickens Speedway, circa 1956.
  17. Keep it simple. No dues, very few rules if any. After working in the SCCA as a Regional Executive in 1991 and 1992, I became burned out because of doing most of the work and all the rules. When I started Scenic City Miatas in Chattanooga, I made every effort not to use any ideas from the SCCA that turned me and others off. We've been going strong since 2000. Some members come and go but the group stays pretty much intact. As for Facebook, that's a good idea. The local SCCA region as well as Scenic City Miatas and a local model car club all have FB pages. However, I would also strongly suggest a googlegroup email service or whatever service you want to use for ciommunications. Many of our Miata members have an email account, but surprisingly, some don't even have a computer. Don't lean on FB too much right away. Some of the members have computers but disdain FB
  18. I haven't measured it since I "calibrated the dial". When I first built it, the temp stayed steady for a couple of hours. I think I'll check it again and see.
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