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Hey guys. I'm currently working on a Tamiya Porsche 959, which is one of my favorite cars. I've got the base coat down, which is white, and I plan on putting Martini Racing livery on it, specifically the Martini stripe along the car from the hood to the spoiler. It's three separate colors and the stripes are going to be pretty small, 1/16in at the smallest and 3/8in at the largest. How should I go about taping the car so that everything is straight, symmetrical, and there are no leaks? Thanks.

Well,no more Alclad for me,it did not really impress me to begin with.

Hi! I would like to start (or try) to make a car model. I was wondering if you guys could help me with some of my questions? - What kind of paint shall I use? and how many types do I need to get a good finish? - Where do I buy these kits from? (live in Norway) - And what kind of tools I need for the job. (glue, brushes etc) I was looking at this, is this good? : http://www.modelcars.com/testors-model-car-spray-paint-set.html And does the manual say what kind of colors go where? Thanks for responses.

Hello. 1. What type of paint do you guys use for fuel fittings,the red/blue? Will tamiya clear blue/red do ,or will i need metallic paint? 2. What would be the correct size for fuel lines for the Tamiya small fittings? 3 What color out of the jar is the best match for Argent Silver (Mopar grills,shaker etc) Thanks in advance.

Hi What type of paint/color do you people use for the frame on woodies? The frame on the body you insert the woodgrain decals to be specific. I would have to order it so if anyone can be specific about make,number etc i would appriciate it. Red arrows on the picture to illustrate what i`m searching lol

Almost 6 months to the day but I think I can say this one is finished... Pretty happy with the she turned out too!

I realized the other day,or actually right after i took up this hobby again that if i`m going to get the finish i want on parts and interior i need to get myself an airbrush. The rattle can works great,but in the long run it will become very expensive to buy a new box everytime i need a detail pantied. I`m new to airbrush,i have never used one so it`s nice if it is easy to use. I noticed this have sold close to 6000 examples,do you think it is any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/370268372610?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Hey guys, I have just started building models, and I messed up the clear coat on the monogram f-250. I have been using conventional paint thinner (not latex brand) and paper towel, but I cant get all o the paint off. The surface is a cloudy mixture of bare styrene and leftover red, also the body lines are gunked up with paint. What do I use??

I have been struggling with painting models most of my life. I can build them, detail them, make them look like they are the real thing......except when I get to the paint! This time I think I finally have it figured out and i get the wrong paint..... I am building a 60 Starliner, that is turning out great, I went with Model Master Napoleonic Violet for the color, I did the frame and all the interior with this color and trimmed it in white. (Still not realizing I would have a problem later) I painted the dash, and then cleared it, it turned out great, then the body was ready for paint, so I loaded up the airbrush, got the booth ready and started to paint! A few good coats, and it looked flawless, I thought it would be my best paint job yet! Until.... After it had dried, I realized that this paint was flat %&#@. So I decided to wet sand it, paint it again and try to clear it, it didn't help much! So now I soaked it in Purple Power, and am ready to start over. Because this build is looking so good, I really want to stay with this color, I think it fits the Starliner beautifully! I know people use Future Floor Polish for a good clear and I've seen how well it works. Question is: 1) Will that make a flat paint shine? 2) Should I still clear coat it? 2a) How long should I wait to put the clear on? 2b)should I wet sand it before I clear it? 3) Is Napoleonic Violet available in a gloss? I am really up against a wall here, this is the first kit that I had built in 15 years, and I haven't touched it in a year (mostly because of building a new work room). I love building model cars, and I want to stay in it, but am a little lost right now as to what to do! I need to finish this one so I can go on to the next. Help!

thought id give Alclad 2 a try the chrome paint for starters Im usuing an iwata neo air brush bottom feed and badger compressor no regulater so I think its pumpin out 30 psi sprayed my gloss black base coat first and had good luck with it goin on smooth so Ill wait a day for it to dry before i spray the chrome. My question is should I get a regulater to drop the air pressure to the 12 to 15 psi pressure they recomend ? and I asked my local hobby shop if I could use lacquer thinners they sell in the hardware stores for like 6 bucks for a huge bottle to clean the air brush and they say no it may wreck the air brush but of course they wanta sell you a a bottle of the alclad cleaner for 10 bucks plus its a pain to clean the paint bottle out afterwards so using the alclad cleaner would become very expensive so what do you guys think any help would be welcomed.

After the struggle I went through on JerrysCherrys figuring out how to post pictures, I doubt I'll dive into Photobucket for a while. However, if you're a member there, go to the "help" forum and you finally find a thread from me with thumbnails of 4 shots of my car. If you click on them, you'll see the body, engine, driver's compartment and finally the total build shot. After following directions, I shot 3-4 coats of clear and it was on the last one the clear bubbled from shooting too close, almost like soap after washing your hands. I failed at wet sanding with 12000 as the clear wasn't set. Luckily, the thing causing the problem (pactra gold striping) which hung the clear from slowly dissolving down the side of the driver's door was stripped off and I reapplied a different pattern which covered the mess. I'm hoping for one more shot at a body offered for shipping only and I intend to drop the striping and simply paint it Purlplicious. Either way, for a 2nd build in 45 years I think the end result isn't a total loss. I'm adding coiled wire for NOS and transbrake to the steering wheel in the meantime while I wait for the new body and perhaps SMBC harnesses for both seats. Thanks for all the help and advice!

Hey all, I've searched and searched the forums, but have not been able to find any threads addressing my issue. So, here it goes: I recently bought a Sunstar 1:18 replica of a 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS as a birthday gift for my friend. There's one problem, though: It's silver, and I want it to match his car, which is black. I've got it parted down, and I'm having the diecast metal body sandblasted to remove the paint. Here's where my questions begin: 1. If the body metal is still coarse from the sandblasting, do I need a primer before laying down the basecoat? NOTE: the basecoat is not model paint - it's automotive touch-up aerosol paint from AutomotiveTouchUp.com (I want this model to match EXACTLY to his car). 2. How can I avoid having a tacky clearcoat on the final product? I did something similar to this process with my phone's metal battery cover, and after several months the clear is still tacky - you can leave a good scratch in it if you drag your fingernail across it hard enough. 3. Obviously, the sandblasting will remove any painted/stamped-on decals/tampoes. Can I get new ones somehow (print, order, paint on by hand) or will the car have to be badge-less? Thanks in advance for your help and time, folks!

I just finished painting a 64 Dodge 330. I have two good wet coats of black and was wondering if I should clearcoat the car. Also wanted to know if I should do the chrome window treatment now and clearcoat after. Thanks in advance, John

Hello all, and thank you in advance for any tips and help you all can give me. You can skip to the next paragraph if you don't feel like reading the backstory of this build, it really makes no difference. I haven't built a model car since I was in grade school (I'm 25) and back then I never bothered painting them. Well once I did but that turned out horrible because I had no idea what I was doing. Not that I've learned much since then, but at least I know more these days. I got a small bonus from work in the form of a Visa gift card and I had no clue what to use it on. I was at my local hobby shop for my fiance when I noticed a model kit (I still browse through those aisles every time I'm there) of a 1987 Buick Grand National by Monogram. I absolutely love these cars and that gift card was burning a hole in my pocket. I thought to myself "I'm going to buy this kit and build it proper, with paint and what not and I'm going to put real effort in this and finish it and it will look awesome!" So I picked it up along with the correct color paints listed and some glue. My fiance said "eww, thats an old person car." I thought that was funny. So I got all of the paints required accept the black for the body. I figured I would just get a can of regular spray paint for plastics to save some money. I picked up a can of "Krylon Fusion for plastics : gloss" at my local hardware store in black. Well I painted the major body parts (after washing them) with 3 coats thinking the next day it would look like the car on the box. I was very carefull not to touch any of it and I left it on a table in my garage overnight. Well, much to my surprise, it didn't. I have pictures showing how it turned out. There seems to be a lot of uneven drying and the texture seems uneven too. Also, in a few spots on the body, lines came through that were there in the plastic when I got it. I circled them. What am I missing? Will a coat of clear gloss finish fix this? Does that even exist? Do I need more coats? Should I better control the atmosphere where it dries? Should I never have used this paint? I hope I didn't completely ruin this kit. Thanks again! Oh yeah, and I did this all a couple months ago when it was still warm outside.

Hello professionals! I'm a new here and to car collecting. I had experience on collecting airplanes but it was a long time ago.. in childhood. Now I do more serious stuff. I love Cadillac classics and my first project is 1959 Cadillac Biarritz Convertible. I want to make it perfectly done. I bought lots of tools, paints, etc. So far this is my first project and I don't know a lot of stuff. Actually chrome parts, trim, etc. And my first question is.. how to hide white pieces of plastic after filing? I made shape very smooth but I don't know how to mask. What do you do? Is it possible to match the manufacturer chrome? Thank you for all answers! Here's my situation:

To all modeling gurus, please help... I primed the body using tamita white primer, and it looks good. I decanted tamiya ts paint and waited at least 6 hours before i load it in my airbrush.. 1st coat - mist coat (looks and feel a little grainy) 2nd coat - mist coat (looks and feel a little grainy) 3rd coat - wet coat 4th coat - wet coat But evertime I shoot the wet coat, I always got this "tiny craters" somewhat like the surface of the moon.. Where am I doing wrong? Can anybody enlighted me? Tried it 3x already.. Stripped it 3 times too.. Another question, I planned to apply futures and then apply decals, after that will shoot urethane. Is urethane over futures safe? Thanks guys.

I'm interested in Donn Yost's painting method (enamel with lacquer thinner) but can't locate Testors products in Switzerland. Has anyone tried Modelmaster enamels? Are they, in fact, the same? What about Humbrol? Also, does anyone know how lacquer thinner would be labeled in German or French? Nobody knows what I'm talking about here. (Junkman?)

Hey guys just wondering what is the favored brand of paint for model bodies?

I just wanted to start what has been one of my favorite threads on airplane modeling forums. It’s not meant to brag or prove has the biggest modeling budget; I just like to see what other people are buying... Today I got the ‘50 Ford p/u with the Ardun flathead I’v been lusting over, a Caddy 354 parts pack motor, and some HOK “Burple” candy paint Casey