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Hey guys I searched the forums but couldn't find the answer. I'm new to clear coating and am not sure if I should clear coat the body before or after I paint the chrome trim. Not sure the chrome will stick after the clear. Thanks!

Hi all Even though I have been building kits on and off for decades, I do not have an airbrush. I simply cannot afford one, and frankly cleaning them makes me nervous. Having said that, a 1:1 Jeep guy we know mentioned the Perval sprayer system, and recently I found out they can be purchased at Home Depot for only $5! Info can be found here ----------- >>> https://preval.com/all-products/preval-sprayer/ A peek at the website shows they sell packs of smaller paint containers, which look better suited to model use, as the bottle that comes with the small kit is a rather large glass one (see pic). Has anyone here ever used this system to spray their models? I'd like to know more about them before trying mine out. I especially need to understand any cleaning processes, as I seriously doubt the propellant will only last for one model!

Hello. I recently recived some paint from Paintscratch and this isn`t ready for airbrush. My question would be what ratio i should mix paint and thinner. Been trying to read around the web and watch youtube videos on the subject but there is a question i still have to ask. Are these paint lacquer,as in i will need lacquer thinner to mix? Any good tip is appriciated. Thanks. Tommy

When applying light colored paint over colored plastic, once body prep is finished, first, shoot it with a coat of Testor's metalizer, then primer over that. The attached model is over 20 years old, and it's still this yellow, in spite of being shot over red plastic. The metalizer kills any would-be bleed-through.

Hello! I'm here looking for help, I built a few models a lifetime ago with my stepdad but that's it. I was about 5 so I have no idea what we used or what we needed. My husband built models as a kid up into his teenage years but when life got busy he didn't have the time to keep doing it and lost all his stuff over the years. He likes models he has to pain. I want to get him everything he needs to start back buolding with for Christmas but I have no idea where to start. I at least want to get the basics and then I can get him the "fancy" stuff that's just nice to have for other gifts. My question is what are the basics? He mentioned air brushing and small air compressors in conversation but I didn't want to press much I want it to be a surprise. Also, what's the best place to buy equipment and supplies from? Including build kits? What kind of paint do I need to get for airbrushing? I know I don't know the lingo here but this is something I really want to do for my hard working husband. I craft, sew, and cut vinyl so I want to give him a section of my art room for his art too ❤️ Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi all, This is Mike from MCW Automotive Finishes. I purchased the business from Dave Dodge, almost a year ago. I am continuing to produce the paints that you all love. I have made some changes to the way we do business. I will take phone orders, I accept paypal, I will take e-mail orders, I still do Fax and mail orders. I have also added some new products, I have added a line of pearl clear coats. I am also developing some Military and Railroad colors. I can also now do any of our colors in rattle cans. There is a higher cost to the cans with a two can min. (this is due to the waste caused by making cans) You can follow us on facebook (MCWfinishes) Thanks for your continued business. Mike Guest

QUICK QUESTION-I HAVE AN AEROSOL CAN OF KANDY ORGANIC GREEN FROM HOK. IS THIS ENAMEL OR LACQUER AND IS IT A TRUE CANDY COLOR? THANKS FOR THE HELP

Ok, this is the third Round2 kit I have had issue with and this one is by far the worst problem kit so far. Paint or primer absolutely WILL NOT STICK to this kit. I washed it as always before starting, paint looks like oil or water under it when applied. OK I stripped in brake fluid, same problem, stripped in purple pond...same problem. Stripped in brake fluid, washed, easy off, washed, Tamiya primer mostly covers but starts to bubble, ok I wet sand bubbles, shot with Krylon (Yeah getting po'ed and cheap), first coat looks ok, second coat of same paint crazes like..well crazy. I am trying to build the Round2 '53 Ford Truck. ( I'm done with it and it is going into trash) Does any one else have any experience with this problem? I am also building a Revel 68 Mustang bought at same time, zero problem with paint. I just completed the Round2 Cougar Eliminator last week, again no problems. Plastic looked different on the two Round2 kits as well. Thanks if anyone has any ideas.

Did up a couple of paint samples for the car. I showed them to the missus, she picked the green. I was leaning toward the copper, but we all know who won. Next build, I'll pick the color.

I have a model car with a body that is made of die cast. It is unpainted and I have one question. Do you paint die cast the same way as styrene and do you sand it and polish the finish the same way? Could you use spray cans and or an airbrush?

Hey guys. I am looking to mix colors to brush my motor with. Maybe for even airbrushing as well. Anyways I tried mixing for a light blue like the color of this motor. When I would go to brush sometimes I would get white, sometimes light blue, just not a constant blue color. Is there a trick to this? I mixed white and blue with a toothpick. The color looked good on the tray, but again when I went to paint I got more white than anything. Need help please.

What do you guys use most? Do you paint by hand a lot?

Can someone please tell me the correct color of blue can be used for "Color Me Gone" Dodge? I don't airbrush, so it needs to be a rattle can. Thanks!

Hey there all! I've been racking my brain and discouraging myself from finishing any of the three kits due to a lack of confidence with painting. I've already stripped my first project (AMT 1964 Impala SS) and started again. Since then, I've torn down 4 older builds and stripped those down with the hopes of saving those kits. I understand cleaning the body properly and sanding it. I understand the primer and wet sanding process. I also understand prepping the paint and the effects of weather. I don't understand the actual process of applying color coats, sanding them properly and clear coating. Can anyone break this down for me? Here are my first attempts! Is this a proper first coat? I'm using Duplicolor automotive enamel over Duplicolor primer/sealant. Thanks for any tips and criticism in advance! This is really bumming me out.

I just tried to order some Gravity Colors Paint. The paint was about $7.50 for the 2oz bottle, but the shipping was more than $70.00? Am I doing something wrong?

Got some paints this weekend, I should be all set for a loooong time.

I have heard about a primer sealer brand name, "Plasticote T-235". Is this safe for styrene? And also I would like a white primer-sealer; this Plasticote is gray. Any advice?

I have a chance to get some paint (a lot of it, probably enough for a lifetime) not sure how old it is, but it is all sealed and new stock,. Any thoughts

These are a few old diecast trucks and cars from my junk box that needed paint jobs. I dig some of these out every now and then to test new paints or just practice on. Some I will keep in the collection, others I will sell at the antique mall for hobby money. They were all stripped and primed with self etching primer. This is a Midgetoy Ford wrecker about 3 in long. It's paint with Testors MM Guard red with a drop of hardener added. Midgetoy 58 Corvette about 2-1/4 in long. Painted with Testors Aztec acrylics. This is with out a doubt the best acrylic paint I have ever sprayed in an airbrush. Here we have both Corvettes, one Copper and the other Guard Red finished.

Has anyone tried it and how did it turn out? Thinking about using it for a Kit.

searched but did not find anything on this subject. I would like to know what all your secrets are for matching the interior color of a car to the exterior. do you use dulcoats, clearcoats and glossgoats? maybe rub the seats down with your finger or something else to get that "vinyl" look? I have read little blurbs in some posts, but can't find anything. thanks in advance, Tubbs

Our WallyMart has all the kits and paint on mark down with the big red sale tags. Looks like they are cleaning them out again. O'Reilly Auto Parts has all the Dupli-Color engine paint in the 12oz cans marked down to $5.49. Maybe they are changing them over to the smaller 8oz? cans like their other paint. That engine paint goes on nice and is rated for 500 degrees, good for us Arizona builders

Hi all! I have a question about new Tamiya's paint, its TS-94 Metallic Grey. What is the difference between TS-38 Gun Metal and TS-94, IRL? I saw preview pictures of this paint, but it's all preview, not the real hue or tone, you know. May be TS-94 darker? I would like to see some real photos of this paint on the bodies or other details or just tell me about it. Thanks.

Hi all: I have painted only four bodies before, all from testor's One Coat metallics. I use Tamiya fine primer and have never had issues. I only use spray can paint as I don't have the budget for everything involved with air brush, hydrator, etc. There have been a few issues with dust which I've lightly wet sanded out based on instructions here. I'm not a perfectionist and don't enter shows. This is my hobby to ease pain from a disability. Only recently have I tried painting with Tamiya as the topcoat. I used almost the same technique as for primer: three mist coats checking for dust or imperfections and correcting them. The primered body gets wiped with a tack cloth or rubbing alcohol using dust free painting gloves. The color coats get three mist coats 15-20 mins. apart to allow for a tackiness to develop and then a final coats are applied. Those coats I fear the most as I have had runs and what you might call "fisheye bubbles" develop which require up to 3-4 days drying time so I can sand them out and re-shoot the area carefully. Smaller dust particles might get 3-4000 wet sanding to fix but if I've not used 2-3 heavy coats I'm afraid it might get to the primered area. I just used my first can of Tamiya lacquer to spray a funny car body and although it looks nice, I didn't go heavy on the one coat after misting for fear of messing it up. It's dried and has been for two days. I'm not going back to using Future, and I understand I now must wait up to 4 days before applying clear. I will be using Tamiya to be consistent with all paint products. If I had applied the clear within 20 minutes of the last coat, I believe I could have shot 2 coats right away. This is important as I have 6 finished builds waiting to paint, along with 2 in WIP! Is it possible to re-dust it now and try to add another coat of the same Tamiya base? If not, what purpose would adding a clear coat be? If someone here could examine my techniques and point out where I could improve, I would appreciate it. As you might tell, I love detailing drag race cars but HATE to paint!

Here are some pics of the Chassis And the body, I Sprayed 3 coats of base on it today. I will let it dry overnight and tomorrow I will wet sand with 800 grit, then lay the decals down and then finally finish it off with 3 coats of PPG Clearcoat. The chassis is pretty well done other than a few small details, thanks for looking hope you enjoy