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Found 60 results

  1. I just wanted to start what has been one of my favorite threads on airplane modeling forums. It’s not meant to brag or prove has the biggest modeling budget; I just like to see what other people are buying... Today I got the ‘50 Ford p/u with the Ardun flathead I’v been lusting over, a Caddy 354 parts pack motor, and some HOK “Burple” candy paint Casey
  2. Looking at the engine for my junior fueler, I noticed this on the front cover...it's corrosion/rust! I didn't put it there (obviously, the cover would be aluminum, so, why would I? ). I sprayed the part with Testors metalizer, many years ago. I'm not sure what the yellow is, but, the reddish-brown is rust. Therefore, I have concluded that some of the pigment was iron. Anybody ever seen this, before?
  3. So I bought a. Compressor from Jarbor Freight hoping to avoid spending an excessive amount of money. I now have a dilemma of trying to connect my compressor to my air brush. Anymon her ever used this compressor and what did the use to connect the hose for the air brush? Any help would be appreciated.
  4. Testors New Color Shift Paint

    Has anyone tried the new Testors Color Shift paint? They come in 3 oz spay cans in 4 colors. I have only tested their Galaxy Blue. It shifts between blue and green depending on the angle to the light. You need to spray it over gloss black in two light coats. Anything heavier and the effect goes away (still a nice green color). The item painted goes from a medium green to a dark blue. When I used a clear coat on it it did take some of the color shift and gloss away. But once buffed it looked good. I will be painting a 1956 Chevy with it and when finished I will post photos of the paint job. I found it at Hobby Lobby (not sure if I can mention them). Not on EBay.
  5. Tamiya paint stands...

    So, yesterday I'm working on laying down the first color coats on the lindberg Dodge 330, for the "Bring out your dead" group build.... 3rd and final coat goes on smooth as butter and then poof the top of my brand new Tamiya paint stand falls off sending the body roof down into the floor! You all can imagine the scene I'm sure... The wife is at work, the dogs are asleep and it's been dead silent except the mild hum of my compressor for nearly 3hrs.... NIRVANA!! And then Murphy barges in and wrecks it. Anyone ever had this happen? I'm about to go back to pipe nipples...
  6. Easy, cheap, works perfectly and fits any hobby paint bottle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7jwhy7neaI
  7. If you're like me, you don't have the money or space for an airbrush setup. So I do all my body paint jobs with basic spray cans. I'm getting tired of getting a lot of orangepeel in the paint, and it ultimately leaving the paint looking unprofessional or unfinished. I want to try and start polishing the paint I work with from now on, but I'm very unsure of the best method. Should I use sandpaper, a buffing wheel with polishing compound, or a combination of the two? I'm also looking for a method that isn't too complicated, I'm not looking for show quality. Just something that can eliminate most of the orangepeel from coats of spray cans. Thanks.
  8. Hello friends, after a long time suffering from the lack of space and the discomfort of keeping the paint cans in boxes I decided to make a small piece of furniture to store the paintings. It has a great capacity and the possibility of being able to store different types of boats and adapt their capacity to the boats that have a specific brand. Made the wooden structure, aluminum supports cut by laser and metallic guides to be able to extract the boats. Greetings and I hope you like it
  9. I recently got an aqua '65 Continental promo that had been repainted orange. Several days in the purple pond took care of that, but it also removed the metallic finish the car originally had. What's a good way to bring it back? I was thinking of giving it a coat of Tamiya clear pearl; any other ideas? Thanks!
  10. I purchased a spray can of Testors Gloss Custom Transparent Black and was attempting to create tinted windows. My first attempt on some clear taillight covers from the junk box came out great after two light coats. However when I tried some car windows the results were not nearly as good. I laid down the first thin coat perfectly, however I wanted a slightly darker tint, so just like the taillights I put a second thin coat on. It looked fine going down, but when I went back to see how it turned out... well it looks all spotty now. Is there anything I can do to fix this? What did I do wrong, so I don't make the same mistake again?? Thanks
  11. Hey everyone- I just got back into the hobby that I used to enjoy as a kid. Picked up a few 1/25 car sets on clearance at my local hobby store and found that decision to be easy. However, I was completely overwhelmed by paint choices. I have a paasche model H and plan to spray most of the parts with that, aside from small details. I've watched a few videos and done some reading on the forum but I'm overwhelmed by the info. I want to be as frugal as possible with my paint choices for now and would like something airbrushable... which leads me to my broad and probably controversial questions: 1) What's the "go to" brand these days? 2) acrylic or enamel... or both? 3) most cost effective way and place to purchase?
  12. I tried to paint a set of wheels with some Testors lacquer. Using my usual technique, the paint puddled in the low spots and the high spots looked like they had no paint. So I striped them, primed them, this time. And got the same result. I decanted some and tried air brushing several different parts, from my parts box. Thinking maybe the plastic of the wheels was the issue. Regardless of the pressure or amount of paint, I got the same thing. Is there a way to thicken the paint I have decanted? Maybe just a bad can of paint? I like the color, but right now, its completely useless. Any help would be appreciated
  13. So I'm having another interesting problem with Scale Finishes paint. I am not sure it is specific to that brand. Here is the story. First, spoons. I very often test paint on plastic spoons. I bought a box of 1000 styrene spoons and have bene using them for years. Lately, the spoons show a glossy/not glossy pattern on them - see the photo below. This is with MANY different brands of paint, so I assume it is something to do with contamination in the plastic of the spoon. I tested the Dark Camel color from Scale Finishes on a spoon, and it exhibited the problem. After I applied the paint to the car, I noticed the same problem. See the photos - there are non-glossy patches on the body. This is after several light/medium coats of the paint, and it looked fantastic wet. As it dried, it got blotchy. Notice the picture of the hood, though - it looks great. Yeah it's orange-peely but this is before any gloscoat or sanding/polishing. --> What is going on with this blotchy paint!? Does anyone have any insight? Hoping that gloss coat would make it look right, I took my test soon and put on TWO medium/heavy coats of alclad clear kote, then a very heavy coat. When wet it looked like glass, but after it dried - blotchy. So it seems that no amount of clear coat is going to fix this. It is possible that the hood has more primer on it than the body. I had to fill dimples and depressions, and to cover the putty and sanding it took more primer. Is that the key? A lot more primer? Any help you all can give would be great. Thanks.
  14. Hi Guys, Sorry if this has been asked before - I tried a quick search but couldn't see anything. I'm hoping to do a future model in pearl/flip paint but can't find much in terms of guidance on what to do, or indeed what not to do. I'm after a green/purple flip and can see Tamiya to a PS-46 which looks perfect, however it's stated as not for use on plastic models, only polycarb stuff. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use, or if the PS stuff can be used, but in a certain way? Thanks!
  15. '67 Camaro Paint job

    Soooooo a question about paint..... The yellow on the hood and the yellow on the body are different shades. I put another layer of paint on the body to try and even it out, as that's the lighter of the two. What else can I do to improve the look, and make it look really glossy??
  16. I just picked a cup up yesterday at the Hy-Vee closest to me and think it needs some detail painting and maybe some glow in the dark paint. It seems like a fairly soft plastic and I intend to leave brown it's molded in the main color, but want to paint the eyes, teeth, brows, bone in the nose, all the V like shapes molded around the face, ect. What would be the best way to approach this? I'm think of starting with a coat of Future, or what ever it is now called, and apply the additional colors over that and maybe use some of the glow in the dark for things like he eyes, teeth, nose bone piercing, and V details then clear the daylights out of it so I can actually drink out of it at work. Anybody got any recommendations ?
  17. Hello friends. I have looked all over (online) for someone to sell me some Zero Paint. Where do you 'guys' get it? I've tried Amazon. Thanks
  18. Hi all Even though I have been building kits on and off for decades, I do not have an airbrush. I simply cannot afford one, and frankly cleaning them makes me nervous. Having said that, a 1:1 Jeep guy we know mentioned the Perval sprayer system, and recently I found out they can be purchased at Home Depot for only $5! Info can be found here ----------- >>> https://preval.com/all-products/preval-sprayer/ A peek at the website shows they sell packs of smaller paint containers, which look better suited to model use, as the bottle that comes with the small kit is a rather large glass one (see pic). Has anyone here ever used this system to spray their models? I'd like to know more about them before trying mine out. I especially need to understand any cleaning processes, as I seriously doubt the propellant will only last for one model!
  19. Hey guys I searched the forums but couldn't find the answer. I'm new to clear coating and am not sure if I should clear coat the body before or after I paint the chrome trim. Not sure the chrome will stick after the clear. Thanks!
  20. Hello. I recently recived some paint from Paintscratch and this isn`t ready for airbrush. My question would be what ratio i should mix paint and thinner. Been trying to read around the web and watch youtube videos on the subject but there is a question i still have to ask. Are these paint lacquer,as in i will need lacquer thinner to mix? Any good tip is appriciated. Thanks. Tommy
  21. A Good To Know Tip

    When applying light colored paint over colored plastic, once body prep is finished, first, shoot it with a coat of Testor's metalizer, then primer over that. The attached model is over 20 years old, and it's still this yellow, in spite of being shot over red plastic. The metalizer kills any would-be bleed-through.
  22. Hello! I'm here looking for help, I built a few models a lifetime ago with my stepdad but that's it. I was about 5 so I have no idea what we used or what we needed. My husband built models as a kid up into his teenage years but when life got busy he didn't have the time to keep doing it and lost all his stuff over the years. He likes models he has to pain. I want to get him everything he needs to start back buolding with for Christmas but I have no idea where to start. I at least want to get the basics and then I can get him the "fancy" stuff that's just nice to have for other gifts. My question is what are the basics? He mentioned air brushing and small air compressors in conversation but I didn't want to press much I want it to be a surprise. Also, what's the best place to buy equipment and supplies from? Including build kits? What kind of paint do I need to get for airbrushing? I know I don't know the lingo here but this is something I really want to do for my hard working husband. I craft, sew, and cut vinyl so I want to give him a section of my art room for his art too ❤️ Thanks in advance for your help!
  23. Hi, From MCW Automotive Finishes

    Hi all, This is Mike from MCW Automotive Finishes. I purchased the business from Dave Dodge, almost a year ago. I am continuing to produce the paints that you all love. I have made some changes to the way we do business. I will take phone orders, I accept paypal, I will take e-mail orders, I still do Fax and mail orders. I have also added some new products, I have added a line of pearl clear coats. I am also developing some Military and Railroad colors. I can also now do any of our colors in rattle cans. There is a higher cost to the cans with a two can min. (this is due to the waste caused by making cans) You can follow us on facebook (MCWfinishes) Thanks for your continued business. Mike Guest
  24. Round2 kit issues

    Ok, this is the third Round2 kit I have had issue with and this one is by far the worst problem kit so far. Paint or primer absolutely WILL NOT STICK to this kit. I washed it as always before starting, paint looks like oil or water under it when applied. OK I stripped in brake fluid, same problem, stripped in purple pond...same problem. Stripped in brake fluid, washed, easy off, washed, Tamiya primer mostly covers but starts to bubble, ok I wet sand bubbles, shot with Krylon (Yeah getting po'ed and cheap), first coat looks ok, second coat of same paint crazes like..well crazy. I am trying to build the Round2 '53 Ford Truck. ( I'm done with it and it is going into trash) Does any one else have any experience with this problem? I am also building a Revel 68 Mustang bought at same time, zero problem with paint. I just completed the Round2 Cougar Eliminator last week, again no problems. Plastic looked different on the two Round2 kits as well. Thanks if anyone has any ideas.
  25. HOK

    QUICK QUESTION-I HAVE AN AEROSOL CAN OF KANDY ORGANIC GREEN FROM HOK. IS THIS ENAMEL OR LACQUER AND IS IT A TRUE CANDY COLOR? THANKS FOR THE HELP