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Found 271 results

  1. I used my 40% off coupon at two locations in the north Phoenix area, got one at each location. I haven't seen them at Michaels yet or I would have gotten them for 50% off.
  2. Please include any links to copies of model car instructions whether on the Manufacturer's Website such as the ones on Revell's website. Suggest that if you have instructions laying around that you contact the Clubs who host them on their websites to see what kind of format they accept copies of instruction sheets. Helps us all out. Revell/monogram/Hobico - http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html Drastic Plastic Model Car Club - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/
  3. Hi guys, i want to share with you my last finished model, an Unimog from Revell in 1/35 scale, i also made a little diorama trying to replicate some road in the afganistan desert.
  4. Since the snap-tite kit was delayed by about 2 months, I decided not to wait for the "in theory" Sept release of the full(er) detailed kit. I started to paint it yellow but had some problems so I sanded it down and prepped it with Tamiya Silver leaf. Then I shot Tamiya Mica Silver as a base coat for the Tamiya TS-50 blue final color. Model has a few coats of Tamiya TS-13 clear over it. I got some chipping around the headlight area when I put the covers on, I am hoping I can touch this up with some Tamiya clear blue brush paint. I am going to use the chrome wheels from the Revell 2006 ZO6 kit along with it's stock brakes since the 2014 kit basically has washers for the brake system. Tail lights have been detail painted and installed . All and all not a bad little kit for a snap together, but watch out for those headlight covers!
  5. OK, starting-up this my newest NASCAR project - The inside is two coats of Xtracolour enamel 'ADC Grey' - my colour of choice for NASCAR interiors. This kit is much simplified in the construction and very 'soft' in detail - a legacy of the 'snap-fix' pre painted kits that Revell promoted in the early 2000's. Have a look at the insides here - almost complete with just five pieces which (virtaully) snapped together, the 1993 Pontiac that I'm wrestling with at the moment, the cage on that build is complete and took ten individual pieces which are all warped and most too short in length. I like simplified builds, means I can get to the 'fun' part sooner. Speaking of which - Acrylic white primer from Halfords - the biggest car accessory chain in the UK, and a fantastic source of good quality and cheap aerosol paint... I do miss that over here. Two coats and the outside is done. I was going to use their 'Volkswagen Silver Grey' as the main colour, but on checking the tin, there may not be enough, no worries, I have an assortment of Tamiya acrylics in the stash to call upon. Thanks for taking the time to look and/or comment. More when the 'real world' allows. Ian.
  6. Hello, Currently suffering from severe PHD (Project Hopping Desease).... The Revell snap C7 Corvette body was washed and dried. Shot the first coat of primer. Block sanded and started working the mold lines.The body looks good and straight so far.... No hesitation on color combo: Laguna blue with Kalahari interior..... Stay tuned... Best Regards,
  7. Hello, After more than a year late, Revell has finally started releasing the C7 Corvette kits. The first one out is the SNAP version seen here. The box is the small one. Mine came in the mail a bit crushed but the content was OK. Less than 40 parts. The emblems are vinyl stickers, not decals. Keep in mind, this is a snapper oriented at "almost instant gratification" to kids and first time builders. Do not expect decals or anything that may seem "complicated" Body looks good. Again, don't forget this is a snapper so most details are molded in (grilles ,exhaust, etc.) As expected the one piece chassis has some engraved detail. The interior is fairly basic with adequate detail but there is no provision for instrument decals. Again, did I mention this is a snapper? Finally, the wheels look decent. Tires are nothing to write home about. But my biggest disappointment is the lack of brakes. I know, metal axle snapper so you don't want to see calipers rolling along, BUT..... In conclusion, it should be a fun exercise until we get the more detailed version with engine, brakes etc. Now, one in Laguna blue, one in Cyber Grey and the third in........ hmmmmmm let me get back to you on that..... Thanks,
  8. Here a progress started for at least 3 years (yes I'm taking my time ) It was interrupted because of a painting problem : the spray paint did not stay on the white curved parts beneath the cab. Finally I used brushes, and, it worked !
  9. Hi guys, here some pics of the finished model, hope you like it.
  10. Well, I guess tonight I have some time, so it is catch-up time on a few things I have done over the past 18 months or so. As most of you agree, the venerable Revell / Monogram 427 Cobra kit is hard to beat. I have built many and I know if I live long enough, I will build many more. This car epitomizes raw unbridled power....what a thrill it must have been to drive one on the track in anger.....wind in your face, bugs in your teeth and huge amounts of power under your right foot. Sports Car road racing at its peak in the later 1960's. As much as I love the kit, I grow board easily with the same old colors and markings....so I thought what if I built a couple in the livery's of cars I loved from the era? First up is the Ferrari 250 GTO.....I love the look of chassis number 4153....in it's classy silver paint with the yellow hood stripe and numberless white rondals.......I built a replica of this car a few years ago and here is a shot of it at the 2014 NNLeast So here is the Cobra roadster done in the same style and color combination.....kind of like, if the team wanted to have a Cobra roadster in their stable......... This is the kit with opened doors and trunk done in colors of the team. Next, one of my favorite team color schemes from the 1960's were the Gulf Racing cars......I have the Fujimi Porsche and Ford GT in these scheme's, I have yet to build them though. I started, but haven't finished the McLaren MP4-12C GT3 The kit is the in the factory colors, but I have the Studio 27 decal sheet to turn the car into the light blue and orange striped Gulf car which I prefer. So here is the Cobra roadster done in the Gulf Racing colors.....Maybe some one raced one in this scheme, I don't know, but this is how I interpret how it would look done as a Gulf Car. I painted on the stripe and had all of the decals except the Gulf logo on the door......the first picture of the car without the hood on was taken before the Gulf logo decal arrived, so it is missing, but the decals arrived from Japan in time for the bulk of the pictures. And lastly, this is a shot of the McLaren MP4-12C with paint and decals, but a long way from complete.....but the colors just look so great on the car Thanks for looking.............
  11. Just started this one. I fell like messing with different plastic right now, I plan to use some Caddy avalanchy interior and stereo equipment. Hoping all goes well to plan...
  12. After seeing a couple of these builds pop up, I thought Id grab one and see how it worked out. I flocked the floor mats gray, and got the door panels painted a gloss gray. It was weird, when I tried to paint the door panels the gloss gray, there were certain areas that the paint would 'run away' from, on both pieces. This plastic also seems thicker. Whenever I try to file/sand something, it seems to chew through my material and paper. I decided to scrap the metal axle and kit wheels for something a little different I have since made sure the bed rails, hood inserts, and such fit, which everything does very well. The pictures make look a little unlevel, its only because part of my mat is warped
  13. Is there a hard top available for this kit? Or do I need to buy an entire resin body just to get one? I would rather just have a roof piece if possible.
  14. The EB110 is a car that looks much better in the flesh than photographs, generally, and looking at the model has the same effect. It's a much better-resolved design than it looks at first glance. Probably one of the hardest kits I've ever built. The level of detail is fantastic, especially around that complex engine bay, but sometimes it's more ambitious than the toolmakers could live up to. The body shell out of the box is pretty flimsy, with "working" front bonnet and engine cover, so I glued them in place to help straighten out the main body piece. Full build WIP, with all the gory details, here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99294 bestest, M.
  15. A great article in last month's Octane promoted this to the top of the build pile! It'll join the XJ220 and soon-to-be-built NSX in an "early 90s supercar" corner of the garage... The Revell kit is very nicely detailed, generally, but the mould is suffering, and this is NOT a car that likes to be packed in a flimsy box and sat on a shelf for years. Airfix/Heller do the whole cabin as a transparent piece that sits on top of the body, whereas Revell has gone for a roof and the flimsiest A-pillars ever committed to plastic. The body shell is also flimsy, and warped on my example, so I've assembled various "working" bits into one, much more solid, shell. The opening bonnet shows you little except the battery, but fixed in place it beefs up the front end nicely. And while it would be nice to have an opening engine cover, both it and the roof were warped. Fixing it shut lets me use the window between the cabin and engine bay as a solid "bulkhead" which pushes the roof and engine cover nicely back into shape... not quite figured out how the "wing" works yet. Heat shields covered with cigarette foil. They'll need a bit of fettling, but the texture is perfect... Wheels stripped of chrome. Lots of flash in the holes, so these are the "best of eight" -- I had a spare set from a donor kit I bough just for the tyres for £5, but the originals demonstrate how tired the mould is. It seems bizarre that they would chrome them in the state some of them were in, but there's obviously no intermediate quality check... The engine is nicely detailed, if a bit over complex -- I don't see a need to have the cylinder head in three stacked parts, especially when they don't fit very precisely, which can end up with your cam covers not aligned and not parallel, if you're not careful. If I was building another one, I'd set up (unglued) the base/sump part of the engine on the bearers in the big chassis part, and then glue on the block/head parts to the base, fine tuning their fore and aft alignment in the chassis, until I was sure that they run directly front to back, and then add the induction manifold and check that for alignment, all while the glue is soft. The blue detailing is prototypical, but there's a bit more to do to the throttle actuator rods yet... bestest, M.
  16. Revell 1/24 '71 HEMI® 'Cuda Hardtop I saw this model at my local drug store and it was on sale, so I got it. This is a picture of the painted body sitting on the frame: I put some 19" rims with low profile tires on it, I think they look much better than the stock ones that come with the kit I need to do a little detail work with the black strip, but i really like it on the lime green. and of course The Hemi: I will try to post more as it get it done.
  17. My first drag car in a while. Box stock, except for some additional engine parts and better wheels. Built to match the box art hope you like it
  18. I bought this a while ago, but I've only just got around to building it. I liked the look of the lace decals, even though the lace is a tad out-of-scale. Gold and purple always go well together, so I used purple candy over a silver base. The horrible kit wheels were replaced with some from a Polar Lights funny car. Now, I've heard it said that this kit has one of the worst Ford SOHC engines in 1/25, so I decided to pep it up a bit. I added resin pulley wheels, intake, oil filter and gear linkage. I also added a Mallory ignition module and rear disc brakes. The engine had no magneto, so I made one that looks kinda like a Vertex. A Detail Master 5-point harness and a fire extinguisher were added to the interior. I had to lift the pickup bed a bit to stop the rear arches rubbing the tyres. A note to anyone who plans to build this kit...The front axle is set too far back. The rear edges of the tyres would foul on the bodywork. I know some guys re-position the leaf springs, but I'd already painted the chassis and installed the axle before I realized my error. Luckily, I'd only fixed the front axle on with CA glue, so it came apart easily and I was able to fit it in a better position with epoxy. The kit decals were dead tricky. They seemed to stick fast, on contact with the paint. I managed to get them all on, but it was a sweaty hour. 'nuff blurb.. Here are the pics: Comments appreciated Hope you like it Thanks for looking
  19. Starting a Camaro being built for drag days Doing the engine first. Went with a Chevy engine red With a lil black wash to make a look a lil used Also my first attempt at doing spark plug wires so this will be a first
  20. Hey. I just got this the other day in a trade. I have a long way to go before I undertake this mission such as finding parts that I'd like to use. I may have a few parts from it that I want to get rid of from this. If so, I'll post them up in the trade section. Wheels will be my first quest. Thanks for looking.
  21. After I finished my '40 Ford Roadster Pickup based on a Tim Boyd article, I was drawn to one of Tim's Street Rodder articles and making a then modern Street Rod out of the '70's vintage Revell Buttera kit. I built the inaccurate '34 3 Window by Revell and I loved the chassis. I completed this model during my summer break between May and June before I started summer classes. This model was not as heavily modified as my '40 Ford Roadster Pickup but I did do far more plumbing on this model than I ever did before. The colors I used were Krylon Popsicle Orange (OSHA Safety Orange), Model Master Ivory, Tamiya transparent Orange, Pactra Gold and Revell Metal colors in Humbrol pots and a few other odds and ends colors. The theme I chose was to make the car an Orange Creamsicle, a cool car, with a tangy orange outside and a creamy cool interior. Ah, the early '90's with all of the bright colors drilled into a young impressionable mind... I chopped the top, but unlike the article I retained the reverse angle to the sides - Tim made more of a vertical formal side panel to the roof. I stole the intake from an MPC Camaro with injectors, '36 Ford Headlights, front tires from some o;d gasser or dragster from my parts box, the turn signals and the rear taillights are from a sprue of Big Rig Trailer lights trimmed down. I used Detail Master flexible fan and used a Detail Master interior detailing kit for the speakers and the door handles. The dash was scratch built and an epoxy casting was made off of another Rod kit for the cluster. I wired the engine, added break and fuel lines to the chassis, hoses for the air conditioner and radiator. My challenges was the chopped top and molded windshield, wiring and photo-etch. I broke with the instructions flow and built the motor and wired it up and set it into the chassis to later find out how hard it is to get the fenders over the engine. The instructions show that you put the heads on after the fenders are installed, Doh! I did a lot of cussing that afternoon in the basement and my Mom yelling at me for swearing so much. I got it together and I was pleased with it and I got a shinier body after I had polished the Krylon with Automotive buffing compound (the days before Micro Mesh polishing systems). Looking back and trying to keep it together has been quite a challenge as well. The Buttera chassis is beautiful and has pose-able front wheels. The A arms keep on opening up and the front wheels pop out, various phot etch bits fall off and the rear wheels fall off and break off of the mounts. The kit was designed to originally have 2 part plastic tires and small rimmed wire wheels. By the late '80's new vinyl tires and bigger rims were a part of the kit and were heavier and then break I think I will finally have to pin the rear wheels on and glue the wheels in place. Once again thank you Tim for making interesting projects to inspire builders. After I did this model I was brow beated by a modeling friend to quit following model magazine articles and make my own rods and customs. My friend Jeff had built many models kit bashed his own way but my technique was still more advanced than his. My confidence was bolster by doing these two conversions and I took up his challenge. The model I built the following year tested by kit bashing skills and I used my first resin body as well. P.S. Yes, I was trying to get a little artsy with the composition of the photos...
  22. Started out late 2013,this is the ones done in 2014. Thanks for looking and merry christmas to all of you.
  23. after almost a year of not touching a single model I finally decided to finish these old plastic jewels that haunted me from the depths of my closet! and as I thought well maybe I'll just paint her satin white and leave her alone I dove into a deep hole of inspiration and thought "why not try something new", everytime I'd finish a model I'd paint it and make it look out of the factory, but not no more my friends, here is my take on a revell ford pick up and my first try at weathering a model!!!! please feel free to let me know your opinions! I'd love to learn from the Jedi Masters of weathering!
  24. I have been struggling with finishing this project for a while. Most of the hard work is done. The front '58 Ford clip came from an original 3 in 1 annual kit. Maybe it was a waste of a rare model, but I find matching plastic to plastic easier. This is the white parts. The Ranchero body is the old Revell which actually was a Country Squire kit when the tool was first created. For that reason, the doors on the Ranchero are two short since it is one of two doors on each side. Revell didn't take account the fact that the front two doors on a four door car are not the same as a two door car. So, the roof is too short. The red parts are from another Ranchero kit I robbed to stretch the Roof on the blue Ranchero body. I need to scribe new door lines and make new door handles.
  25. I finished this one recently. I tried some stuff on this one for the first time - first two-tone interior, first time wiring an engine, and first time using BMF. It came ok I guess...I used Krylon Satin Finish in Ivory and Pistachio. Sorry for the cellphone pics, I misplaced the tripod for my camera. (Still need to fix the windshield) Thanks for looking!
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