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Found 281 results

  1. All the Honda Motors I've built so far!
  2. Started this project a few weeks ago. Plans are to do a series of three(3) builds all based off the same vehicle: 1st a (semi) factory original, 2nd a rundown/abused version, and 3rd a resurrection. I'm calling this an OOB build as there's no major changes being done. Any and all comments, pointers, suggestions, sarcasms, etc. are openly encouraged. Starting point from the box: Sanded down the body mold lines and flash and shot the body/grill/hood with primer. Scribed the panel lines: Very early in the build my visions started getting cloudy. I want to keep things original, yet present some "extra step" aspects to the finished piece. Saying this, I just had to open those gills up: Also the OCD in me couldn't stomach the front fender lines that are not supposed to be there. Laid out where the correct panels should be and started cutting (does this change the OOB status?):
  3. Hey everyone, My name is Shawn & I'm a Honda enthusiast. I have built almost all of the Revell Honda or Acuras. Recently turned onto this page I figured I'd come share my work. Please Enjoy!
  4. Before the end of 2015 I picked three of the Revell Streetburner 70 Challenger kits for less than 10 bucks each. The first was built to match the box art. This one I'm thinking of taking a bit farther, and the first part of that will be a grill cover. The grill work was done using .20 rod approximately 3" (75 mm) long, since I wanted light to pass through, and for the chrome and headlamps to still be visible behind it, the spacing is about .20 as well. Step 1. Building the jig. Starting with a base of tacky putty, I pressed the grill from the clip in far enough to provide the outline. Saved a lot of measuring, and gave me the points to set my corners. Placing each horizontal piece, I then alternated with standard size staples for uniform spacing. I then applied liquid glue to the verticals and placed them on. The mockup above does show the verticals under the horizontals. That was a first run through, and it made more sense to apply the verticals from the top rather than try and cement them underneath. 2. Placement Once the glue had set, I eased out of the jig with #10 blade, since I may want to use the jig again. Her's a shot of the grill laid over the front of the car. I used a marker to mark the ends of the horizontals for trimming to fit inside the setback over the headlamps and grill. That bit of rough texture visible in the picture is some of the tacky stuff that still needed to be removed. and here's a shot after trimming to fit. The top vertical was cut to fit the width of the hood opening. Cleaning and painting. I'm going black on this one. And here's another fitting after painting. Also thinking of carrying the same grill to the lower opening, but haven't decided on black or body color. Your comments are always welcome.
  5. So, I researched this one for a couple months. I read all 29 pages of the discussion when this kit was released, checked out a ton of people's builds, then started figuring out what I wanted to do with it. In the end, I decided to: I looked at tons of pics of the real car as well, waiting for something to really stand out to me as the perfect combo. I knew the interior was going to be white, but couldn't decide on a body color. In the end, a few pics of a Lime Green Metallic Cuda stayed with me the most. Then I set out to find a suitable paint (I don't own an airbrush), and was terribly disappointed. How on earth is it that different shades of light metallic sage-olive green were offered by every manufacturer and was the most popular color of the 60s and early 70s, and NOBODY offers a decent rattle can of a suitable color???? Anyway, after researching for two weeks, I found Automotive Touchup, and purchased a can of Pontiac Verdoro Green and Clearcoat from them. Two coats of color and 4 coats of clear were applied, compounded and waxed.Tried several different tires to get something a little more beefy but not over the top, and settled on the AMT Goodyear Polyglas GTs.Wired the engine, added battery cables and a little wiring on the firewall for detailI heard all of the complaints about the fenders, and agreed. I'm not sure what the reason is that the fenders were molded with such ridiculously prominent lips. I saw several builds where once painted, they weren't terrible, but they stuck out like a sore thumb to me comparing to photos of the real thing. I also noticed several pics where the real car didn't have the chrome trim rings, which I preferred, so I actually used the hobby knife to trim most of the lip off, then sanded as best as I could.Anyway, I have read all of the complaints, but this was a JOY to build, and is an excellent kit. First, i'll give a few WIP shots as it came together, and then some finished pics. Finally, I had to take it outside in the morning sun. Hope you enjoy... I loved this model. Added a little wiring to the firewall: Was able to get the silver outline trim painted onto the steering wheel, and the black trim around the window cranks: One last pre-finished shot: I was in final assembly, and the sun hit just right: Done: Finally, a few outdoor shots, including under the hood with everything in place:
  6. Hello everyone! I'd like to introduce you a modelcar build from Russia. I finished it a year ago. That was a 1/25 scale snap-kit by Revell with quite poor detailization. I just added some details as resin tires, mud flaps from sandpaper, antennas, steel rope on a winch, chain on a front bumper. Also carried some work on the winch itself. Headlights were replaced by new ones. I used decals from the box, but they were cut on my demand. Weathering effects were made using plaster and enamel paints. By the way there's another truck featuring on some photos - GMC plow truck by Revell, 1/24 scale, that was my previous build. Hope you'll enjoy this one! Best regards, Dmitry.
  7. IJ001

    '68 Firebird

    Started just three weeks ago, and here it is 'Under Glass' - Not bragging at all, in the 'workbench' section I did call this a "Clear the bench" build. Part of the reason for the speed of this project is my enthusiasm for the project - I really like Firebirds, the other reason is the quality of the kit, in my opinion Revell produced such a superb quality product it's actually quite difficult for an average modeller like me to scr*w-it-up. Learning points, well I asked here and on another couple of sites about varnishing over an already very smooth & glossy finish, I took the advice from most folks and applied those extra clear coats and it worked-out... so learning point #1, be brave and with the correct tools and a little luck the finish you want, you can achieve !! Learning point #2, I need to re-learn my BMF 'skills' next time around . Thanks for taking the time to look and/or comment, and as ever all comments, criticism and questions welcome. Ian.
  8. Picked up a new model last week in Reno. Looking forward to learning from my mistakes on my previous kit 1970 Chevy Monte Carlo. This is the Revell 1965 Chip Foose edition Chevy Impala With Clear
  9. Following all the anticipation and 'prep' for the Cambridge Show which took place over Armistice weekend (same as the UK Nationals) and last week simultaneously 'instructing' & taking a SAR course, that part of my brain that deals with modelling is really working only at 'tick-over'. That in mind, I decided to clear the bench, drag-out a relatively straightforward kit and simply build it from start to finish. So here t'is. Revells 1968 Firebird 400 in it's original 2004 boxing. The roof lining has been sprayed Tamiya acrylic 'Buff' and the chassis & firewalls Tamiya 'Satin Black' enamel. The body has been primered with Tamiya grey just this morning and will be left alone for a day or so to fully cure before rubbing back and polishing ready for the first coat of glossy black. Not certain whether in 1968 the red interior was available as an option with the black body colour, but even if it wasn't for overall effect, black with a red interior is really hard to beat and in my opinion, so classy. The bonus is that the red graphic stripes are in the kit, so it's sort of a 'no brainer' for me. Hopefully at the end of the process it will look something like this: Stay tuned & let's see !! Ian.
  10. Hey folks Could do with a little guidance. I have the Revell Yenko Camaro which to my eye is a superb kit, so nice that I'd like to get at least one more, but I'm a wee bit unsure as to which of the currently available kits are (relatively) new releases and which are re-treads of the older Monogram kit. Over to you folks, any help is very welcome. Ian.
  11. I used my 40% off coupon at two locations in the north Phoenix area, got one at each location. I haven't seen them at Michaels yet or I would have gotten them for 50% off.
  12. Please include any links to copies of model car instructions whether on the Manufacturer's Website such as the ones on Revell's website. Suggest that if you have instructions laying around that you contact the Clubs who host them on their websites to see what kind of format they accept copies of instruction sheets. Helps us all out. Revell/monogram/Hobico - http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html Drastic Plastic Model Car Club - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/
  13. Hi guys, i want to share with you my last finished model, an Unimog from Revell in 1/35 scale, i also made a little diorama trying to replicate some road in the afganistan desert.
  14. Since the snap-tite kit was delayed by about 2 months, I decided not to wait for the "in theory" Sept release of the full(er) detailed kit. I started to paint it yellow but had some problems so I sanded it down and prepped it with Tamiya Silver leaf. Then I shot Tamiya Mica Silver as a base coat for the Tamiya TS-50 blue final color. Model has a few coats of Tamiya TS-13 clear over it. I got some chipping around the headlight area when I put the covers on, I am hoping I can touch this up with some Tamiya clear blue brush paint. I am going to use the chrome wheels from the Revell 2006 ZO6 kit along with it's stock brakes since the 2014 kit basically has washers for the brake system. Tail lights have been detail painted and installed . All and all not a bad little kit for a snap together, but watch out for those headlight covers!
  15. OK, starting-up this my newest NASCAR project - The inside is two coats of Xtracolour enamel 'ADC Grey' - my colour of choice for NASCAR interiors. This kit is much simplified in the construction and very 'soft' in detail - a legacy of the 'snap-fix' pre painted kits that Revell promoted in the early 2000's. Have a look at the insides here - almost complete with just five pieces which (virtaully) snapped together, the 1993 Pontiac that I'm wrestling with at the moment, the cage on that build is complete and took ten individual pieces which are all warped and most too short in length. I like simplified builds, means I can get to the 'fun' part sooner. Speaking of which - Acrylic white primer from Halfords - the biggest car accessory chain in the UK, and a fantastic source of good quality and cheap aerosol paint... I do miss that over here. Two coats and the outside is done. I was going to use their 'Volkswagen Silver Grey' as the main colour, but on checking the tin, there may not be enough, no worries, I have an assortment of Tamiya acrylics in the stash to call upon. Thanks for taking the time to look and/or comment. More when the 'real world' allows. Ian.
  16. Hello, Currently suffering from severe PHD (Project Hopping Desease).... The Revell snap C7 Corvette body was washed and dried. Shot the first coat of primer. Block sanded and started working the mold lines.The body looks good and straight so far.... No hesitation on color combo: Laguna blue with Kalahari interior..... Stay tuned... Best Regards,
  17. Hello, After more than a year late, Revell has finally started releasing the C7 Corvette kits. The first one out is the SNAP version seen here. The box is the small one. Mine came in the mail a bit crushed but the content was OK. Less than 40 parts. The emblems are vinyl stickers, not decals. Keep in mind, this is a snapper oriented at "almost instant gratification" to kids and first time builders. Do not expect decals or anything that may seem "complicated" Body looks good. Again, don't forget this is a snapper so most details are molded in (grilles ,exhaust, etc.) As expected the one piece chassis has some engraved detail. The interior is fairly basic with adequate detail but there is no provision for instrument decals. Again, did I mention this is a snapper? Finally, the wheels look decent. Tires are nothing to write home about. But my biggest disappointment is the lack of brakes. I know, metal axle snapper so you don't want to see calipers rolling along, BUT..... In conclusion, it should be a fun exercise until we get the more detailed version with engine, brakes etc. Now, one in Laguna blue, one in Cyber Grey and the third in........ hmmmmmm let me get back to you on that..... Thanks,
  18. Here a progress started for at least 3 years (yes I'm taking my time ) It was interrupted because of a painting problem : the spray paint did not stay on the white curved parts beneath the cab. Finally I used brushes, and, it worked !
  19. Hi guys, here some pics of the finished model, hope you like it.
  20. Well, I guess tonight I have some time, so it is catch-up time on a few things I have done over the past 18 months or so. As most of you agree, the venerable Revell / Monogram 427 Cobra kit is hard to beat. I have built many and I know if I live long enough, I will build many more. This car epitomizes raw unbridled power....what a thrill it must have been to drive one on the track in anger.....wind in your face, bugs in your teeth and huge amounts of power under your right foot. Sports Car road racing at its peak in the later 1960's. As much as I love the kit, I grow board easily with the same old colors and markings....so I thought what if I built a couple in the livery's of cars I loved from the era? First up is the Ferrari 250 GTO.....I love the look of chassis number 4153....in it's classy silver paint with the yellow hood stripe and numberless white rondals.......I built a replica of this car a few years ago and here is a shot of it at the 2014 NNLeast So here is the Cobra roadster done in the same style and color combination.....kind of like, if the team wanted to have a Cobra roadster in their stable......... This is the kit with opened doors and trunk done in colors of the team. Next, one of my favorite team color schemes from the 1960's were the Gulf Racing cars......I have the Fujimi Porsche and Ford GT in these scheme's, I have yet to build them though. I started, but haven't finished the McLaren MP4-12C GT3 The kit is the in the factory colors, but I have the Studio 27 decal sheet to turn the car into the light blue and orange striped Gulf car which I prefer. So here is the Cobra roadster done in the Gulf Racing colors.....Maybe some one raced one in this scheme, I don't know, but this is how I interpret how it would look done as a Gulf Car. I painted on the stripe and had all of the decals except the Gulf logo on the door......the first picture of the car without the hood on was taken before the Gulf logo decal arrived, so it is missing, but the decals arrived from Japan in time for the bulk of the pictures. And lastly, this is a shot of the McLaren MP4-12C with paint and decals, but a long way from complete.....but the colors just look so great on the car Thanks for looking.............
  21. Just started this one. I fell like messing with different plastic right now, I plan to use some Caddy avalanchy interior and stereo equipment. Hoping all goes well to plan...
  22. After seeing a couple of these builds pop up, I thought Id grab one and see how it worked out. I flocked the floor mats gray, and got the door panels painted a gloss gray. It was weird, when I tried to paint the door panels the gloss gray, there were certain areas that the paint would 'run away' from, on both pieces. This plastic also seems thicker. Whenever I try to file/sand something, it seems to chew through my material and paper. I decided to scrap the metal axle and kit wheels for something a little different I have since made sure the bed rails, hood inserts, and such fit, which everything does very well. The pictures make look a little unlevel, its only because part of my mat is warped
  23. Is there a hard top available for this kit? Or do I need to buy an entire resin body just to get one? I would rather just have a roof piece if possible.
  24. The EB110 is a car that looks much better in the flesh than photographs, generally, and looking at the model has the same effect. It's a much better-resolved design than it looks at first glance. Probably one of the hardest kits I've ever built. The level of detail is fantastic, especially around that complex engine bay, but sometimes it's more ambitious than the toolmakers could live up to. The body shell out of the box is pretty flimsy, with "working" front bonnet and engine cover, so I glued them in place to help straighten out the main body piece. Full build WIP, with all the gory details, here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99294 bestest, M.
  25. A great article in last month's Octane promoted this to the top of the build pile! It'll join the XJ220 and soon-to-be-built NSX in an "early 90s supercar" corner of the garage... The Revell kit is very nicely detailed, generally, but the mould is suffering, and this is NOT a car that likes to be packed in a flimsy box and sat on a shelf for years. Airfix/Heller do the whole cabin as a transparent piece that sits on top of the body, whereas Revell has gone for a roof and the flimsiest A-pillars ever committed to plastic. The body shell is also flimsy, and warped on my example, so I've assembled various "working" bits into one, much more solid, shell. The opening bonnet shows you little except the battery, but fixed in place it beefs up the front end nicely. And while it would be nice to have an opening engine cover, both it and the roof were warped. Fixing it shut lets me use the window between the cabin and engine bay as a solid "bulkhead" which pushes the roof and engine cover nicely back into shape... not quite figured out how the "wing" works yet. Heat shields covered with cigarette foil. They'll need a bit of fettling, but the texture is perfect... Wheels stripped of chrome. Lots of flash in the holes, so these are the "best of eight" -- I had a spare set from a donor kit I bough just for the tyres for £5, but the originals demonstrate how tired the mould is. It seems bizarre that they would chrome them in the state some of them were in, but there's obviously no intermediate quality check... The engine is nicely detailed, if a bit over complex -- I don't see a need to have the cylinder head in three stacked parts, especially when they don't fit very precisely, which can end up with your cam covers not aligned and not parallel, if you're not careful. If I was building another one, I'd set up (unglued) the base/sump part of the engine on the bearers in the big chassis part, and then glue on the block/head parts to the base, fine tuning their fore and aft alignment in the chassis, until I was sure that they run directly front to back, and then add the induction manifold and check that for alignment, all while the glue is soft. The blue detailing is prototypical, but there's a bit more to do to the throttle actuator rods yet... bestest, M.
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