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Found 35 results

  1. Decal Scan for Hasegawa Reynard

    I purchased this kit used, and unfortunately no decals. If anyone has this kit and would be kind enough to scan the decals, I would be sincerely appreciative. Bill A.
  2. Monogram 1/24 Terry Labonte 1984 Piedmont Chevy

    Hi everyone, My first finished build of the year. Texas Terry was my favorite driver growing up and I've always loved the look of the Hagan cars and the pre-aerocoupe Monte Carlo SS body. This build is stock, with the exception of Chimneyville Decals. Overall, the kit was a nice, fun build. I used Tamiya rattle can for the body and chassis. I went for an early season red chassis because I like the bright interior. For the rest of the car, I used Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics. My biggest issue was with the aftermarket decals, which peeled on the edges when applying clear. But it's going on the shelf and overall I'm fairly happy with it.
  3. A-Team van by greenlight. Check it out.
  4. I took a look at this car, has body issues very odd looking but presentable too. What do you all think?
  5. Revell ‘66 Shelby GT350

    This is my first build on here, so sorry if it is badly worded or done, but to start it off I’m a 14 year old, and have been building since the age of 5 1/2, starting that age with my dad, building on my own since age of 7-8 years old, but enough of that. It’s a Revell 1/24 1966 Shelby GT350, and I’m not sure how I want to build it, I had a dream a couple of days ago about a vintage racing school, where you learned vintage racing, and in that dream there was a 1966 Shelby GT350, so I might build it as that, but I’m not sure yet, also, when I try to upload progress pictures, from my phone which is what I use to take model progress, it says error, no matter what I use, is it an error with the pictures or? I need input.
  6. Tamiya Nissan Skyline R34

    Hi all. First post here and thought I'd share something I just finished up, which also happens to be my first time making a kit like this so theres a few things I could have done better but overall i'm happy with the result and cant wait to make more! (I already have 3 more Skyline kits on the go lol) I have experience restoring and painting real cars so I sprayed this with automotive paints and lacquers, detailed with Tamiya acrylics by hand. The paint isn't Bayside Blue of course, and is infact a Ford colour I had left over, but I think it's pretty close and I'm happy with how it turned out. I decided to go with the Japanese plates for that full on JDM look 😉🤣 The interior was flocked but you can't really see that in the photos. I had never done flocking before though so that was a fun experience. Anyway let me know what you all think and thanks for looking. X
  7. I have run out of my Tamiya primer, and was wondering if it is any harm to use standard automotive primer. Im very new to this hobby so please don't kill me. Thanks
  8. Hello, I just signed up to this forum recently and this is my first thread here and I'm happy to have found this place as it seems to be the last car modelling forum with a healthy amount of active users. I look forward to learning some tips and tricks from you guys and hopefully contributing something back. I've been working on this Supra for the past 2 weeks. I spotted this article, during the past Christmas Holidays, written about the car I fell in love with when I was around 12 years old. Aoshima has released multiple 'Top Secret' cars, but for some reason they have never done the original Top Secret Supra. I got the itch and had to jump back into the hobby and scour the internet for reference pictures. I think this is something you guys can relate with. The need to build a model of your favorite cars from your childhood. Here's 2 images of the real car: Start of the Journey (Supra body from the Tamiya kit) shaping the nose. Added 2 pillars cut, shaped, and filled with milliput A lot of styrene and milliput later, we have the basic shape. Since milliput takes forever to dry, I work on the hood. Hood ready for the vents. Or not, oops....... It's ok we can fix it with superglue and milliput After letting the hood dry, and a lot of filing and sanding to the body. (Clearly a lot more work ahead.) With that face in mind, I thought it's time to work on that lamp housing. I thought this method would work and it actually seemed fine, the only problem was the area was so small I couldn't sand it lol. Making body kits isn't really my thing, so this just a big giant learning process for me. Well, when you fail, try something else right? My second attempt involves the use of a stuffed condom. Yea buddy. Stuffed with milliput, get your head outta the gutter. Here's a pic checking fitment. Filed down. Drilled out, so I can make cuts and shape the inside. Got the basic shape, but needs a lot more work. Pretty annoying since it's so small. Throw on some primer, check for flaws. And yea, flaws everywhere. Here some pics of problem areas that needed / still need fixing Off center nose Shaping surfacing issues More shaping and surfacing issues Oh yea I forgot to show how I completed the front fenders: More sanding, filing, and primer this is the state the body is in now. Just minor surface issues now and I need to draw two panel lines. After fixing those I'll be on to making the side skirts. I'd be surprised if you read this far. Sorry if there's a lot of pictures but I kind of wanted to show as much of the steps as I could. Thanks for reading
  9. Hi guys, these two models mentioned above are long time waiting to be put together. Like quarter of a century or thereabouts. In the meantime, unfortunately, the instruction manuals went lost or at least misplaced - can't find them anywhere. If anyone has the instruction manuals for these two models and can be troubled to scan them and send them to me I would really appreciate it. Cheers, Vukan
  10. Hi guys, I'm a new member here, although almost 4 decades in this hobby. I don't fancy my self as some supa-dupa (this is some Aussie lingo for ya) detailed modeler, but I definitively enjoy this hobby to the max. I'm into 50's, 60's and early 70's sport and racing cars. If I can't have them all in 1:1, at least I can make them as scale models. From time to time, I'm reading forums on this site with a great interest, but the special reason to join just now, was to reach one of the members through messages, although it seems that I scarred him? Anyway, maybe someone else can help me? Same as so many of you, I have models that I bought even 30+ years ago and they are still waiting for all those more important things in life to finally happen so I can start putting them together. One of those models is Heller Porsche 908 for which, during last 25 years in my possession, I unfortunately managed to lose the instruction manual. As I just finished 906 and 910, I though it would be good to continue with 908 too, before doing 917, to stick to chronological order of Porsche development. I tried various modelers instructions data banks on internet, I even contacted Heller in France directly and all to no avail. Heller customer department advised that they don't keep instruction for old models. What?!? So, dear brothers in hobby, if anyone has this model, can I, please ask him to trouble himself and run instruction sheets trough scanner and send them to me. As I'm new here, I hope I didn't broke any golden rule of this site by asking this and if I did, dear moderators, feel free to teach me how to avoid that in future. Cheers, Vukan
  11. Is this kit difficult to find? Is it a good kit? Any ideas on what an unbuilt example goes for?
  12. Fujimi Altezza/RS200

    Hey everyone, here is the build I've started today. It's also my first real build like this, so I'm seeing how it goes. It's a 1/24 scale Fujimi Altezza, and I'm going for a JDM/drift style build inspired by the drift team Animal Style. The color I chose was a metallic red flake, and clear coat. I'll worry about the decals later, I'm just trying to take it step by step. First will come general assembly and then paint. I'll post an update once The body has been painted. This is my first build, so it's not going to be amazing. As I post updates feel free to tell me where I've made mistakes and how I can improve.
  13. Hello everyone, This is my first post to the board as I came across your site while Googling for a model kit I'm having a hard time finding. It is a 1/24 Tamiya kit featuring the Subaru XT Turbo or Alcyone model from the 1980s. There were two specific models; I would be happy to find either. I've included some photos below. Any tips or recommendations on where to look are appreciated.
  14. Nissan 240Z Street Racer

    Tetsuo, a wannabe street racer with more money than sense, bought a nice 240Z, just to start cutting it up to add fiberglass aero. He never thought about upgrading, or even repairing, the stock L24 straight-six under the hood. After losing a large sum of money on races, he decided to sell the car. He set the price to try to recoup the money he spent on the car, plus the money he lost racing. Between the exorbitant asking price, the damage he did to the body, and the poor reputation the car gained during the owner's failed street-racing career, the car languished on the market for a long time. Eventually, he found a buyer named Kaneda, but had to accept less than half of his asking price. Kaneda knew repairing the bodywork would be an expensive and arduous task, so he decided to leave the bodywork, bad paint and vinyl stickers as is and concentrate on mechanical upgrades. He upgraded the brakes, suspension, and had the engine swapped for a small block Ford V-8. When the work was completed, Kaneda started going to street-racing events. The other racers remembered the car, and it's miserable performance, from Tetsuo's time driving it, and thought Kaneda would be an easy mark. Kaneda made quite a bit of money in those first few months, before the car's reputation caught up with its performance. This is Fujimi's Nissan Fairlady 240Z Full Works Version, finished as a curbside model. This was my first time cutting up body work to fit add-on aero parts, so things didn't go as well as I would have liked. Instead of putting the kit to the side, I decided to go with it, and make a distressed and abused street-racer. The body color is Tamiya Bronze acrylic. Chassis, interior and hood are painted with Tamiya Semi-Gloss black. Trim was masked and painted with Tamiya Gloss Black. Decals are Revell Pinewood Derby dry transfers. I used various Ammo of Mig Jimenez products to add weathering and distressing. Black thread was used to replicate zip-ties holding cracked aero together. Header ends were made from K&S aluminum tube, I used a Dremel with a ball-shaped grinding bit to thin out the inside bore of the tubes to make them look more scale-correct. Here is the WIP: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/100787-nissan-240zg-track-toy/ Here are the finshed photos: Here is a shot of the finished model in its display box, next to my '25 Model T rat rod:
  15. Hello Everyone, this is my Revell Ferrari California OpenTop, first one this 2016...Revell paints, funny kit, hope you like it! thanks for watching!!
  16. "Introduced in 1930 to replace the sixth series Speedster of 1928, the Boattail and Phaeton were the most popular. Powered by a high-performance in-line eight cylinder engine displacing 384 cubic inches, the Packard could easily move along at a brisk 100 mph." (from the instruction sheet) I really enjoyed building this classic. The engine and chassis are well detailed and it's just a cool body style. Comments welcome as always, thanks for looking!
  17. Hello Everyone, my first post... this is my last build of 2015 the Revell Ferrari Aperta S.A. in baby blue made with enamels and aqua colors of revell, hope you enjoy! thanks for watching!!
  18. 1913 Model T

    This may have been the toughest model I've ever done. Even though it's 1/24, it's pretty small and spindly. I am very happy with the way it came out however. The only thing I might do differently is add some color to the tires. They just seem too stark white. Hope you like, comments welcome.
  19. Here a progress started for at least 3 years (yes I'm taking my time ) It was interrupted because of a painting problem : the spray paint did not stay on the white curved parts beneath the cab. Finally I used brushes, and, it worked !
  20. 1941 Lincoln Continental

    Finished this one up last night. I really need to work on my photography. Kit went together very well, the up-top was warped or I would have used that, may try to straighten it later. As always, comments welcome, thanks for looking.
  21. Completed builds 2014

    Started out late 2013,this is the ones done in 2014. Thanks for looking and merry christmas to all of you.
  22. OK... the Lambo is still under way, but this one is now done! Lovely little kit of a lovely little car. The only thing I'd do differently if I did another one would be to thin out the body at the wheel arches, to give the dropped suspension a bit more room to move... bestest, M.
  23. Guns?

    Any info on guns in 1/24 or 1/25? I'm not too specific on exactness, as 1/24 and 1/25 look basically the same to me. I really want some double barrel shotguns for hillbilly trucks to make into sawed-offs XD Any kind of pistols, too, would fit nicely.
  24. These are just a few of my favorite Danbury Mint models
  25. Danbury has really gifted us with some real Beauties over the years. When they slowed production to a halt, their limited editions were selling for $150. Their latest,(and last) model, the beautiful 1935 Ford Coupe, is listed for $250.00. I have about 100 or so of them, so if I factor in the extra $100 I spent on this model, that is like adding a single dollar to every other one I bought. Not bad in my book, considering some of the models in my collection are worth at least twice what I paid Danbury Mint for them, and some even more. My Bullitt Charger, for example, one has sold on eBay for $1200.00 (not my personal model) I had more, but sold off the low-tech stuff (and made a tidy profit doing so), and now only have the models that came from (what I like to call) the Golden Age of diecasting, when models were rid of the dog-leg doors, and went to hinges, photo-etching was a must, and they just got awesome. Models like both the wonderful '54 Cadillacs (hardtop/'vert), the '59 Pontiac, both the '58 Pontiacs(hardtop/'vert), the '57 Cadillacs(hardtop/'vert), all the woody wagons. The '58 Chryslers. The two '55 Chevy's(hardtop/'vert), the second Gen and '64, '65 Thunderbirds, the beautiful '47, 48 Buicks, and lest we forget the striking '56 Lincoln Premier's (hardtop/'vert), or how about the two Packard Caribbean's (hardtop/'vert), or have we forgotten so fast of the two outstanding '56 Buick's that Danbury gifted us? How about the '49 Olds Rocket coupe, or the '48 Chevy Fleetline? And those are just some of the jewels from the '50's. I would be a fool if I forgot to mention the classic '36 Packard that belongs in every diecast collection, or the first Ford fitted with a V8......the 1932 Ford Coupe B., and life wouldn't be so merry if I didn't have my '37 Stude Dictator coupe, and the new '35 Ford fits right in with these stunning vertical grill cars. I hope I haven't bored anybody yet, because I have yet to mention the Hotrods, like the Little Deuce Coupe, The Ala-Kart, The McMullen Roadster, or the Norm Grabowski's Kookie Kar. I also have all of the under-appreciated pro-street cars. I also have every Danbury Mint C-3 Corvette, including the Pro-Touring and Owens Corning racer, 13 in total. And don't let me get started with the muscle-cars, let's just say I have all the good ones. Did Danbury ever make a bad one? I own all the models listed above, and then some. I am just trying to make a point here, and that to me, the extra $100 that I spent on the very last Danbury Mint model was well justified. It will be destined to be a highly collectable model, and I just couldn't live with myself if I didn't jump on it. I have made that mistake in the past, and ended up paying dearly for it.