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Scale I Build

Found 48 results

  1. This model is an approximation of the real Chevelle my friend Mike M. had right after we graduated high school. It was a true SS 396 in red with black stripes, black interior and black vinyl top. It was a 4-speed and the engine was built up with Holley, Edelbrock and Hooker parts. The thing was bad fast too. We had to go WAY out to the country to look at it which helped as they only wanted $1000 for it. If it wasn't, it would have been snatched up long before we got there. This model is the closest to box stock as I have ever built. I did add some photo etch emblems. I am about 70% happy with the paint and 95% happy with all the details.
  2. This was an open box purchase from a friend who wanted me to build a replica of the 1:1 car he is building. Unfortunately this kit was not appropriate for his build. So instead I built it for me. It is Testors Star Spangled Blue and has been top coated with Testors Wet look clear. I have only used rattle cans and this is the best paint job I have EVER done. The silver SS stripes are from Keith Marks. The rear window took some fine sanding and Future clear to remove the glue smears. The engine is a BBC mixed and matched with parts box pieces. The side emblems are photo etch and the wheels and tires are parts box pieces. (I wish I had more) Be advised the grille is NOT for ANY year Chevelle. It looks like is was adapted from a Monte Carlo. This is definitely one of my top 3 builds (so far).
  3. Here is my 70 SS Chevelle, removed the roof an put Cutlass Convertible on! Used Woopie kat decals
  4. This is a ProShop pre-painted kit with mixing and matching of parts from my other Chevelles. Overall it turned out pretty well. I picked the Cragar S/S wheels because they look good on Chevys. I went with a red interior just to spice it up. The engine is a 454 Big Block with ignition wires added. Except for the side marker lights, no BMF was used. Just a touch of Molotow chrome here and there.
  5. This is a restoration of an 1987 reissue 69 Chevelle SS. I have taken some liberties with it, insofar as mixing and matching parts with another reissued kit. The "Stinger" hood is from Drag City Casting http://www.dragcitycasting.com/ And has the scoop opened up via Dremel tool. The 'Yenko' and 'SYC' decals are leftovers from a Keith Marks decal set. The pinstripe is from the newer kit. The rear tires were widened and the Cragar SS rims are from the parts box. The cross ram dual quad manifold is from the parts box as well. The distributor and wires are scratch built. The paint came out so-so mostly because it was a really old can (20+ years) and had lost some of its pressure. Other details include BMF and Sharpie marker treatments. This car reminds me of the first stick shift car I ever drove. A genuine red with black SS stripes SS396 4-speed.
  6. This model is the first full resin body conversion I have ever attempted. It is a 1968 Chevelle SS casted by Ed Fluck of Drag City Castings http://www.dragcitycasting.com . It was pretty easy to work with, which is nice, since I do not have any body work skills. I simply removed the flashing and thinned areas as needed. A couple of donor kits were used in this build. The first was an AMT 68 El Camino. From that I took the windshield, dash, steering wheel, front seats and console. The interior tub and complete chassis were donated by an AMT 69 Olds 442. It has a very detailed chassis with multi-piece suspension and working steering. Floor pan-wise, it took very minor trimming to fit nicely under the Chevelle body. The rear glass is from a 69 Chevelle. I originally wanted to do it up as a Yenko Super Chevy. However, after doing some research I found out that Yenko did not modify any Chevelles in 1968. Besides that, the Drag City Castings “Stinger” hood wouldn’t accept the YSC decal format. Since I had already purchased the Yenko decal set from Keith Marks http://public.fotki.com/mofobow/chevy/chevelle/ I scanned them in my PC and modified the side stripes to read “SS 396”. The hood decal artwork I designed from scratch in MS Paint as a .bmp. I used my inkjet printer and Testors decal paper to produce them. The yellow color, which I like to refer as “Magazine Cover Yellow”, is some craft store rattle can my wife got awhile back. The paint and decals are clear coated with Future. As you can obviously see, I used BMF as there is a lot of trim. If I had to do it over I might have added a black vinyl top. The wheels are multi-piece Corvette rally wheels that have been widened in the rear. I also widened the rear tires and lettered them with a Gelly Roll pen. The exhaust tips are nickel plated ‘crimp’ tubes (for RC planes) I picked up at my LHS. The big block Chevy engine came from the parts box and is a basic High Performance 4-BBL with ribbed valve covers. The wired distributor I made myself from scratch. The K&N air cleaner is high enough to be visible in the hood scoop opening. The front and rear bumpers including red tail light lenses are Modelhaus items http://www.modelhaus.com .
  7. Did I post this one before? I forget. My memory ain't too good these days, but then it never was. Love me some Chevelles. I think this was a Monogram kit. Been so long ago, I don't remember. I graduated high school that year. Dang, I'm getting old!
  8. So I finished up my AMT 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle SS LS6 yesterday evening, and I think it came out ok. I will admit that I was inspired by Chris' (hpiguy) build of "Melba Toast". Did mine come out as nice as Chris'? No, not even close, but I am please with the results. I used the Model car Garage 1970 Chevelle P/E set for some interior details (window cranks, SS454 door badges, & rear view mirror). The driver's door mirror is not included in the kit, and it came from Tom's (tbill) parts box. Thanks, Tom. The 1970 Rhode Island license plate came from 15q.net. I also added a P/E radiator cap (just for fun), P/E "COWL INDUCTION" logos, and P/E fender badges.
  9. Everything under the skin of the new Revell 68 Chevelle is so nice, I figured I would beat Revell to the punch and use it to make a decent 1970 Chevelle. I’ve always thought the Revell snaps-tight Chevelle had a wel proportioned body, high detail door panels, and its super smooth! So out came my cut off wheel, razor saws and sanding sticks! Here is where I’m at so far. I started by checking the fit of the floor pan assembly. It fit like a glove! Then, I carefully removed the hood with the back of a #11 technique. I removed the upper cowl from the 68 and mounted it in the 70. To locate it properly, I tacked the 68 interior together with the firewall in place too. Positioned the upper cowl in line with the firewall and tacked it to the fenders. Then I swapped out in the inner fender sides to give the hood something to sit on. Satisfied with that start, I moved to the interior. I cut out the floor of the 70 first, then slowly started sanding the bottom of the rear seat until it sat in the right position. I built off the rear seat with the interior sides to the dashboard. Then after numerous test fits with the 68 floor, sanding, fitting and sanding some more.... I got it in place and in line with the firewall again! That’s where it stands right now. I have to find my L88 hood for the 70 now. I mastered and cast it for the AMT 70 Chevelle years ago and I think it will fit with a little modification. If not, it will give up it’s scoop to make a new one. Hope you like it, and maybe try this yourself! Questions and comments always welcome.
  10. Getting my Chevelle underway..... this kit looks promising with the builds that have been posted up so far. It will be painted Tripoli Turquoise with a parchment and black interior. White SS stripes will be my choice for the decals. They will help accent the white vinyl top. Minor wiring and plumbing on the 396 engine and accessories. An opening deck lid to showcase the trunk area details will be added as well. Pics coming later...
  11. Hello folks, just finished another snapper... Hope you like it.
  12. Started on these today. Got the frames down and will wait for good weather to paint them. Thanks for looking!
  13. After finishing the Buick GSX, I was eager to start on the brand new 1968 Chevelle from Revell. Almost 20 years ago I painted a couple cars that were to replicate a pair of Baldwin Motion cars sold ordered by Roberto Schneider. The Camaro cost $9,300 and the Chevelle was over $7,000! The Chevelle was used by Mr. Schneider to flat tow the Camaro to Texas and eventually into Mexico. I’ve always wanted to build the pair in towing configuration and was well on my way when a couple problems arose with the Chevelle. #1 was the tail lights. They are very inaccurate. #2 was, the stipe I laid down was much narrower on the hood than the rest of the car. This fustration sidelined the project for a long time. After realizing that the new Revell Chevelle will probably be released as a 1969 down the road, I decided to continue to wait on this project. In the meantime, my love for Motion cars steered me towards what I think is the “prototype” Baldwin Motion Phase III Chevelle. One reason I believe it is the prototype is the hood. It’s the only one I have seen with Corvette scoop with no stinger portion on top of the Chevelle SS hood! The “production” fiberglass hoods were the full stinger on a flat Chevelle hood. I spoke with Joel Rosen a couple weeks ago but didn’t ask him about the 68. I have an email in to him to see if my suspicions are correct. In the meantime I started getting stuff together for this project. And here is where I’m at. The stinger scoop is from the 1967 Nickey Camaro, side exhaust is from the 1969 Motion Camaro and the wheels are from EBay. Any questions and comments are welcome!
  14. I just purchased a lot of kits and there was a AMT Red Alert Chevelle in the batch. I inventoried the kit and it is missing the radiator support (shown in the instructions) but the body in the kit has the support molded in. I have searched the internet and every 70-72 chevelle body I could find does not have this piece molded in. Any clue what kit this body is from? There are no numbers or writing molded in the underside of the part. The chassis hood and interior fit perfect.
  15. I picked up the snap Revell 70 Chevelle yesterday just to check it out and see how well the 68 frame and floor pan fits. What do you all think? There were no modifications done to either the body or the floor pan for this fitting. So this conversion of the snap kit is thoroughly doable, except for one thing. The cost. In order to do this right, someone would need to get two of the snap kits in order to cut the hood out. (unless of course the hood from the AMT kit would fit, which by looking at it I don't think it would. Too short.) In order to get a nice fitting hood a person would need to first cut out the hood from the donor kit along the fender side, leaving room between the cut and the hood edge of the hood for final sanding. The body you are using to build your 70 Chevelle, you would cut the hood out between the hood edge and the fender on the hood side, that way you could sand it even with the fender. Once you do that the hood will fit with the clearance of the grove that is already cut into the body. Basically you would cut on either side of the hood groove and then sand down for fit. The other thing a person would need to get is the 68 Chevelle kit for the running gear. Of course, you could always use the 68 frame and floor pan and mate that to the unmodified snap body for a nice curbside with good frame detail, that way you only need to buy one kit. At the cost of kits now-a-days, we are talking around $60, seems pretty expensive to me. While I do agree the Revell body is way more accurate than the AMT version, perhaps I could live with just a snapper for the 70 version, of build one of the three AMT ones I have! Thanks for looking!
  16. Well, if you haven't noticed by my profile pic, I'm a Chevelle guy. When I saw this kit coming out I knew I had to have it. This is the Chevelle I always wanted. I wanted to be the first to post, but because of work wasn't able to get the job done, so I got beat by a couple days. SAM_0435 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0436 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0438 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0440 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0442 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  17. I really like the color of this one, Tamiya Pearl green, but I don't like how the frame fits into the body. I think this one will be regulated to the get rid of pile once Revell releases their 69 Chevelle kit (it's coming, I'm sure of it). In the meantime, you can see what frustrates me about these AMT 69 kits. The wheels don't look the same on either side of the model. Playing around here a bit, will that Revell frame fit the AMT 69 Chevelle convertible body? I think the answer is yes :-) Thanks for looking, all comments welcomed.
  18. Started back in 1995 or so. I painted it with some auto touch up GM green. I like the color combo but just ran out of steam wile dealing with the angle of the steering column. I think I should get back to this before I do a full detail build of the Revell 70 snapper! I had mags on it and have decided to go with the factory SS wheels, which need to be detail painted for them to look their best. I put the deals on then shot a clear over them. I don't like how they raised themselves along the hood scoop. I have some cracking of the decals going on in the rear as well. That ridge is smooth to the touch so I thought I had fixed it. Too late to go back now as I have no clue as to what this paint color is now. Thanks for looking.
  19. I'm going to cut up and create a promod out of my prostreet chevelle. This is the first time I'm going to make a complete promod.
  20. This is a '66 Malibu SS (Revell Monogram). The body paint is Testors Metallic Black enamel. The interior is Testors Yellow enamel. I used a Molotow Chrome pen on the windows. On the rear chrome I painted with Model Master flat black acrylic, and then used a toothpick to scrape off the raised letters. The lettering on the tires was originally flat white enamel, but I found after 2 weeks that it never dries. I rubbed it off with thinner and repainted with white acrylic. I used flat black acrylic in the radiator and on the engine heads. I put a coating of Future on, but didn't think it was glossy enough, so I kept layering on coatings until it became a big mess. Then I sprayed it down with Windex and ran it under the sink faucet and all the Future rubbed off easily. But not before I accidentally scraped up some of the paint. Two coatings of Future with a Q-tip eliminated almost all the scratches. This model has a poor design for fitting parts together. The side frames for the engine actually interfere with the exhaust pipes. I had a really tough time with that. Also, I had a tough time getting the front to stay on and had to end up using superglue, which unfortunately shows up on the seams. The workbench thread is here.
  21. I've been working on this '66 Malibu SS by Revell Monogram. The painting is mostly done, and I've just started assembly. The kit called for a gloss black exterior and red interior. I'm using a metallic black exterior and yellow interior. The trim is done using Molotow chrome pen.
  22. I see (in someone's avatar...you know who you are ) the 1/25 Lindberg '66 Chevelle Super Sport kit is about to be reissued very soon, so until Round2 puts something up on their 'site, super-hobby has some very shots of the included parts from the last go 'round: http://www.super-hobby.com/products/1966-Chevy-Chevelle-Super-Sport.html IIRC this one one of Lindberg best offerings during their brief renaissance back in the '90s, so I'm looking forward to seeing how Round2 packages this kit this time around.
  23. Steamboat

    1972 Chevelle

    I'm looking for an AMT 1972 Chevelle to do a build of cars that I've owned. I have many kits that I can trade, mostly Mopar. If you have any specific wants, let me know, I might have it. Bill
  24. I will be building this one as a highly modified Grand Tourer Rest-Mod featuring independent rear suspension, custom front suspension, a ProCharged LS3 with a custom engine bay and custom interior. I started by filling all of the random unused holes on the chassis and cutting out the section of the trunk floor above the axle (seemed easier to cut that piece out and replace it rather than trying to cut out the control arms and fill the other random holes). I found the independent rear suspension setup in the parts box, I think it came from a Supra kit. Still debating on the front suspension if I should go with a typical coil over setup or maybe the front end out of a Shelby Cobra. So far with the body I have shaved all the marker lights, door handles and badging. I'm waiting to get the engine, intercooler and seats that I ordered from clearly scale before I get too wild modifying the front of the chassis and engine bay. Body 1 Chassis 2 Chassis 4 IRS 1
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