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Scale I Build

  1. Good morning, Sharing my thoughts on this Fujimi kit. It was painted with Tamiya LP-42 Mica Red over Tamiya Pink Primer and clear coated with TS-13. The interior is Zero Paints Ferrari Cuoio Leather clear coated with Tamiya X-35 Semi Gloss and Tamiya TS-29 Semi Gloss Black. In hindsight, I wished I'd added a little more back to the interior - which I would have done if the doors could be opened and closed. I left the wheels their original chrome but gave them 3 coats of Tamiya X-19 Smoke. The kit contains some photo etch parts and window masks. Most of the kit went together quite well, however I noted a few exception below. What I learned: 1. Mica Red required multiple coats before it started looking red and not orange over the pink primer. 2. First time using decanted TS-29 Semi Gloss Black - it seemed to go on like their LP-5 and looks identical to my eyes once dry. 3. First time using Zero Paints. It can be sprayed between 15 to 40 psi. I would lean more towards 15 next time - especially for the interior as the paint dried very quickly. 4. It's probably just me, but the plastic seemed more brittle than other kits I've built. I broke a wiper and the small front spoiler. 5. Fitment issues: When dropping in the engine, make sure the headers are tight to the engine as it is a snug fit inside the engine compartment (they can't be seen anyway). The nose/mustache did not fit flush against the left and right quarter panels so I used CA glue + accelerator to hold them down. The headlights are attached from below but there is no way they can be attached to the pins on the nose/mustache. I had to cut the mounting holes on the headlights into semicircles (kinda hard to explain, but picture horseshoe vs. ring toss). The side mirrors and the small front spoiler gave me nightmares. The contact points are too small and I popped the mirrors off a couple times and made a glue mess of the (broken) spoiler. And finally, perhaps this is a Fujimi characteristic (had the same problem with a GT40), the body to chassis fit takes a little patience while you enjoy all the creaking and scraping sounds. I'm not bashing the kit, however I don't think I'd build another Berlinetta. Thanks for reading :^)
  2. Just happened to be in town today, saw an old Alfa Romeo, then another classic sports car, with a logo on the side, so I did a quick u-turn and followed them to a hotel downtown. The Copperstate rally was staying the night, last day will be tomorrow. So nice to see these cars being driven, this rally is 1,000 miles. A nice benefit, the latest project I'm building was here, so took lots of reference pictures that aren't posted. Looks like whoever had a Porsche 911 Carrera RS got a discount to join the party. First batch is in bright sunlight.
  3. Kitbashing the Airtrax Ferrari 330 GTC resin kit with the Revell 575 M Superamerica. The reason I have always wanted the 330 GTC, when I was a kid, my dad knew someone who had one (and an Aston Martin, and a BMW Bavaria, and a Mercedes 300 SC), and after incessant begging he took me for a ride. Even though it needed a tuneup, it sure made an impression on me. Because of this forum, I found the source, so I sprung for it. Found the pictures online, to print out for the box art. The body appears to be accurate, the photo-etch is really nice even though there is no "Ferrari" or Prancing Horse emblems (have that covered). You need to provide tires, and a chassis, I guess the 250 SWB or 275 GTB/S, or even the Daytona, would be the most accurate, but I wanted something different. Found the Superamerica at a swap meet in town (not a model swap meet) for $10. The wheelbase is almost the same, track width might be a challenge, but that's what flares are for. Doing this for a Fakebook community build, maybe I will nickname it Mama Mia! 🇮🇪 Owners manual, will photo-reduce for a final detail. A look at the parts. No instructions. Need to make the steering wheel rim, might try using wood like what Replicas & Miniatures of MD has done. I have rally lights left over from my Cannonball WRC Subaru (not shown). Custom box: Community build started 1/01/22, proof that I didn't get a head start. 😅 One wheel is terrible, but since I didn't plan to use them, not a big deal.
  4. Unofficial reveal, of the Italeri (Testors) Ferrari 250 GTO Spyder. WIP: Italeri/Testors Ferrari 250 GTO Spyder The factory never built a Spyder of the famous GTO, two cars were coach built on average Ferrari chassis (is there such a thing?). I saw the convertible twice, once in my town when the Copperstate Rally parked downtown, and at a Monterrey Historics. This is not an exact replica, added some features such as the roll bar. I will take better pictures when the weather cooperates.
  5. Wait... nobody has built this kit? It's been calling me from the stash, "build me, I'm an easy curbside, don't even think about putting an engine, transaxle, suspension in because you'll never finish." I searched and found nothing.
  6. Brand new resin kit of the unusual Ferrari 410 Superamerica Ghia. I've kept my eye on his Facebook page, after several years he posted that this was about ready, so I PMed him to say I was interested. I said that I look for his eBay listings, he said don't do that, he gave me the price and made the sale that way. Ordered August 4, seems like the usual across the ocean service. Nice cardboard box with his artwork top and one end. Well packed in bubblewrap. It's a curbside, but I have plans. You can tell it's handmade, not too thick a body. His famous real wire wheels, rims are painted, and the resin tires have an authentic looking tread. Nice decals. The grill is resin; I asked if he considered doing that with photo-etch, he said this is laser cut. The photo-etch is top notch. I've had this book a long time, so have a great start for reference. This is my plan (of mice and men), restorod! The Revell 2005 575M Maranello based Superamerica is a little shorter in wheelbase, but the width is about the same. Only a nut like me would think of making an already challenging resin kit more so by kitbashing. 🤔 I'm also considering painting turquoise, just to avoid RED. But who knows, I have so many other future projects where I thought the same thing. I've learned to get what I want, NOW, such as the Fisher Alfa Romeo BAT5.
  7. Old Monogram kit, 1965. Bought it at the 2019 IPMS kit swap. Classic build, ie, no PE or aftermarket resin. A simple, not particularly accurate kit, but went together well. I find that when I'm struggling to make time for kit building, finding a "low-parts count kit" (20-30 count) helps get me over the motivation hump. Finished with Tamiya primer, Tamiya Ferrari Red spray can & Mr. Hobby clear. Used Bare Metal Foil for chrome.
  8. Hi all, I am new to the forum and would like to introduce myself. I'm C.A.R, 28 year old male, from New York, and have been building 1/32nd aircraft for years. I would like to share my first F1 model car build with you. While I normally wouldn't venture into building cars myself, my 27 year old brother is a huge F1 fan and recently requested that I build something for him. When he showed me the Ferrari 641 in 1/12th scale, I had to oblige. I found the car gorgeous and the engineering of the 1/12th scale Tamiya kit to be an excellent starting point for a super-detailed build of Alain Prost's 1990 car. The biggest challenge (and expense) associated with building this model was somehow obtaining the two Perfect Parts detail sets (1. full set & 2. brakes), which have long been discontinued for at least 10 years and are extremely rare (several sets have sold on eBay for $200-$500 dollars each). Despite this, I was lucky to get both from a seller in England for $275 total. Though I have no way of knowing this, I suspect I bought one of the last unused sets in the world. I knew I had to work extra hard on this kit to do those rare detail sets (and my brother's build) justice. Regarding detail sets, the only other detail set supplier is a from a guy named Paul Raterink who runs Thundervalley F1. He turns out some impressive work but hasn't responded to my many emails. I initially tried to buy his stuff; when he didn't respond, I went on a wild goose chase globally to find the Perfect Parts sets. It was dumb luck that I was able to get both sets at the price I got them. As good as the PP sets are, they have inaccuracies. Mainly, the velocity stacks are completely inaccurate, as are the brake discs. Both are accurate for the McLaren Mp4/6, the Ferrari 641's rival car and counterpart Tamiya release in the early 1990's. I researched the car by traveling to the MOMA's example in NYC (below) and taking my own pictures of the actual car. I also used Tamiya's Ferrari 641 detail book and numerous google images. I also looked at the builds of others to see which judgments they felt were accurate in either/or areas. I tried to find engine plumbing schematics for the Ferrari engine, but could not find anything. I will probably roll out pictures by subassembly: wheels, brakes, torsion bars, wings, monocoque, engine, etc. In the spirit of improvement and/or accuracy, I invite you to be as critical as you like when leaving comments. CR
  9. DISCLAIMER: These kits have been started in 2008 before my accident. Everything that you see in the first few posts will be the work I have completed before the project was shelved. I’m attempting to resurrect the build and hopefully complete these at some point soon, just don’t know if I’m still in shape to actually do it, but what the heck. =================================== The 1979 24 Hours of Le Mans was the 47th Grand Prix of Endurance, and took place on June 9 and 10, 1979. Ferrari had no chance against mighty Porsches and new BMW M1s, but it did enter several cars in competition. It was Beurlys 512BB LM #61 "EMKA" with its screaming 4.9L Flat-12 driven by Nick Faure, Steve O'Rourke, Bernard de Dryver, and Jean Blaton that showed 12 overall result having completed 274 laps. Today I will build this car in 1:24th, using multimedia kit from Model Factory Hiro. I will be another double-build. The second car will be JMS Racing/Pozzi #63 3M "Cloud Car", which unfortunately DNF after completing 219 laps. Here are couple of pictures of the real cars: The kits are usual MFH detail tour de force, with lots of white metal, turned aluminum and steel, and photoetch. Body is half resin half metal, and lots of other materials used for various parts of the kit as well. I started with cleaning the bodies, but as with all MFH kits, the process will be slow (and painful) because of the amount of cleanup and test-fitting required. You get a lot for your 31500 yen - here is kit contents: As you can see on the following pix, the fit is horrible. I mean - nothing really fits! It looks like some parts came from a different kit! So...I decided to cut it all apart and see if I can put it back together so it fits right! Made templates for the doors Then started hacking into it. Look at the thickness of that thing! Good grief! You know why Hiro kits are so expensive? They use way too much resin :-) LOL! After I cleaned up door jambs a bit I found one positive though - I don't have to build door jambs now - they are thick enough as is, I actually had to thin them down a bit. Door pattern was transferred to sheet brass, then doors were cut out, shaped over the spare body and just by hand, and then meticulously fine-tuned, bent here and there, beaten to shape. Still need some work a bit, but the basic shape is there. Door jambs were cleaned for the doors, and then I started carving the cavity for the doors to go inside the body when they open. After few hours of work, cavities were made, door jambs finished, and part of the hinge made. Then I added hinge to the door skins. It is a very simple but very effective construction that perfectly replicates the way doors opened on the real car. Later on, the entire hinge assembly will be concealed by the inner door frame. This is how the doors fit on the outside: Front lid was sanded and re-shaped until my fingers started bleeding! Had to completely re-do the sides, then thin it down (a lot). That cover needed tons of work. Still need a bit more, but I was at least able to do proper test fitting. Now I need to do the same for the other! Door frames! Still a few tweaks needed here and there, and solder needs to be cleaned up, but basic shape is there. So, this is where it all stopped in 2008. I have not touched this kit since, everything that is to follow will be new stuff. I honestly don’t even know where to pick up the pieces on this, but will assess the situation over the weekend and proceed then. Just wanted to put this up here as a bookmark!
  10. I was rummaging around through my files and found this decades old note I sent to Gregg about old Ferrari model kits. I thought some might find it interesting though don't hold me to the accuracy or omissions. Gary Old Ferrari Models revived.doc
  11. hi everyone !😄 this is my FUJIMI 1/24 FERRARI 288GTO. build it almost out of box,just add some detail parts ..the kit is aged, but I think the shape is quite well, and no fitting issue.. a easy kit to build! hope you guys like it!!🙂 and here is the video build if you are interested..🙂
  12. Been seeing more Ferraris that are not original, but recreations based on modern Ferrari drivetrains. It's a theme that I have already built one model as, an outlaw or resto-rod. Found out about this car, built by a shop in New Zealand, a 1959 TR 250 Representation. Seem like a good point to launch this topic.
  13. Hi all When taking gallery pictures for my Lamborghini Veneno I noticed that I didn't had some gallery pics for my Ferrari 488 Spider neither. So I decided to change that and took the Ferrari out of the display cabinet und put it on the photo background. The work in progress can be found here: I hope you like the pictures Urs
  14. I am in process of building ESCI's Ferrari 250 SWB. I want to build it as close to the real car as possible but don't have very good reference material. Does anyone have good dtailed pics of the interior, engine bay, suspension, chassis and under body?? Was the underside of the body painted body color? Did the 62 SWB have the tan colored interior? Thanks in advance on any and all help.
  15. Because a Facebook group is having a Ferrari theme group build, it lit the fuse to get this done. I've only been wanting to build this 250 GTO Spyder for about 18 years. The pictures I took were in Prescott at a Cooper State rally, and the Monterey Historics 1994 when Ferrari was featured. There isn't much on the web about this particular car. It's not a real GTO for starters. This kit was chosen just because it was a bagged kit (no box), found at a model show. I have 3 other brand kits still in the stash, so I could build a real authentic model, someday. I had decided to build it this year anyway, so it got bumped up in my priority list. Comparison between kits (Fujimi kit was bought after taking this picture): My 2021 Resolutions list: Taking a look before starting: First session, got the body, interior tub, and short block glued together. It's a nice kit, so far everything fit together. Exception is a big gap filled with plastic, not a big deal. The headlight buckets needed some work to fit snug. All joints are lots of superglue with baking soda. Rough cut lines drawn on the body. I might do the whole deck with one piece of sheet styrene.
  16. Guys and Gals...The Pocher kit was a mere 20- 30 parts at best and it looked like a toy when assembled. Therefore I wanted to share what I did to it from a kit with some heavy modifications to attain a sense of realism. I know that a lot of this isn't exact to detail...but 90% of the people wont know the difference but its close...I wanted to capture as realistic as I could. Believe it or not...I used old MacBook Pro and Mac Pro screws, old parts from model kits, parts from a DVD player...Ethernet cables...and bits and pieces from all over to attain something a little different but close to the real engine. I'll post the top of the box so you can see what it was supposed to look like and all that I did...enjoy.
  17. After building a few nearly box-stock Tamiya kits to remember how its done, hone some techniques, and feel the airbrush again, I decided it was time to do another serious, all-out, old-school, superdetail project. Long time ago I have purchased an Airtrax transkit to build a car that I consider one of the most beautiful Ferraris of the late 60’s – the gorgeous 330 GTC. The Beauty Traditional 2-seater coupe 330 GTC (Gran Turismo Coupe) was unveiled at 1966 Geneva autoshow as an additional model to the Ferrari lineup and sloted between 275 GTB (on which chassis it is built) and more upscale 330 GT 2+2. The body was designed and built by Pininfarina. Over the 2-year period through the end of 1968, Ferrari made a total of 598 cars (both RHD and LHD). 330 GTC was considered by many to be the most elegant model in the Ferrari lineup. Beautiful body lines were complimented well by the powerful 12-cylinder engine and nicely appointed luxury cabin with spacious trunk. The car was no slouch and handled great too. The Beast Transkit is very simple, and contains a body, few interior pieces, some external bits, and a fret of photoetched parts. Disclaimer: I’m in no way trying to bash people who made the trasnkit in my following descriptions of the parts and the quality overall – I’m thankful it exists and somebody made it. But I want to be objective so others know what they are getting into. The resin castings are pretty horrible, but overall correct as far as proportions go. Quality of resin casting is pretty bad. Lots of bubbles, uneven and partially lost panel lines, parts that are not completely (fully) cast, and body shell thicker than my finger. Poop. But, nobody did anything better since this was released, so we have what we have. There will be a lot of work to make this look worthy of calling a replica, like fixing bent parts like this: The glass vacuuforms are very vague, the front does not fit. Other parts are not much better, some are just wrong. Just look at the seats…. Luckily, photoetch is of great quality, and will be very useful: That’s all for now. As a base for the model, I will use Italeri 275 GTS kit. There will be obviously any other things and sets used, like wheels, etc. Not decided 100% on the color as of right now. Wish me luck.
  18. I have been building other subjects the last while and not here much. This gets my mojo running so I will post lots about it Here is my first attempt at putting together a Pocher model. Now it is a metal body/ plastic parts from the exotic collection. I can Hear Harry roll over in his grave and Cato's eyes roll back in his head, but here is where I choose to start my Pocherism So, Ferrari Testarossa, semi assembled by nice old guy in States with failing eyesight and health bought about five years ago now. Pretty clean body work and decent interior. Engine not started and a detail upgrade set provided. These are pics in my big woodworkshop as it is 16 pounds and just under 2 feet long. I plan on doing sub assembly work in my model room and put it all together in the big shop. I have an F40 that needs similar treatment and show it in the WIP display shelving for my Pocher collection....a lot messy at the moment
  19. I just received 2 new Ferraris. The SP1 and the SF90 are in 1/24th scale by BBurago. The SF90 Stradale The SP1 Monza
  20. MOTOR AUTHORITY: Ferrari's record-breaking V-12-powered race boat is for sale Dupont Registry: One-of-a-kind: Historic Ferrari Race Boat for Sale Business Insider: This one-off, record-holding boat has a Ferrari race engine and a $12 million price tag — see the 1952 Arno XI Years ago, I saw a resin kit of this boat in a catalog, but didn't have the money to buy one. On a hunch, looked at eBay and saw that several craftsmen are making wood scale models of this boat (picture), in various scales. The engine is from the 375 series, with twin superchargers, still holds the record of 150 MPH (in class). I'm not into boats as a rule, but this one is too cool to not show y'all.
  21. Here’s my Monogram Ferrari 308! It was an early release, sealed, bagged no-box kit from eBay, molded in red. It’s a curbside kit but it goes together great and has some decent detail. This was my first attempt at the Bare-Metal-Foil-before-you-paint-it technique for the emblems, and it didn’t come out great for the deck lid Ferrari script or the side Pininfarina badges. I think I’m still laying my paint on way too thick, so there wasn’t much of a raised script left to strip the paint back off. Anyways, I think it turned out well enough for my shelf, and lessons learned for the next one!
  22. The Ferrari 275 GTB/4S NART Spider was a roadgoing 2-seater spider version of the 275 GTB/4, 10 of which were built in 1967. This model was introduced with a revised four overhead camshaft 3.3 Litre overhead camshaft Colombo V12 engine producing 300 hp. This Italeri 1/24 scale kit has been upgraded with turned aluminium rimmed wire wheels. The kit is an accurate replica and just requires filling of a few injection pins on the underside of the floorpan and replacement of the wire wheels for enhanced realism. Steve Hansford Melbourne, Australia Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/fazmodeller
  23. Hey guys, Hope everyone is good. Just finished this ferrari by alpha models and I must say for a resin kit wow what a treat it is to build, it fitted together like an absolute glove, anyone wanting to try out a resin kit for the first time I would highly recommend
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